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Author Topic: Hearts in the Desert  (Read 8391 times)

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Offline Damaraland

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #60 on: October 01, 2019, 07:48:42 am »
When we did the car trip in Namibia we were not to impressed at Palmwag. Pity they couldn't help you. You couldn't just make a turn at the ablutions the night and morning and wild camp next door out of sight....?

We didn't want to push our luck, I'm happy it worked out the way it did though, otherwise we wouldn't have discovered Khowarib Lodge. It is actually very nice there, and at R150p/p camping is super affordable. It was R540 at Palmwag. Palmwag is nice and central though, so we'll probably stay there again. Will just have to remember to book next time :-[ The place was overrun with tourists! :o

Very good to hear that things have improved at Khowarib.  On our last Kaokoland ride we booked a camp place there.  We arrived at about 16:00 and they flat-out refused to serve us dinner, because we didn't book the dinner itself before 15:00.  This silly requirement wasn't pointed out to us when we booked nor on the website.  In the end we cornered and paid the cook directly to cook food for us.

Loving the RR, keep it going!
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Online Grunder

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #61 on: October 01, 2019, 07:50:38 am »


We ride the big dirt road to Opuwo. We didn't stop to take too many photos as we wanted to keep moving and not die of boredom lol :laughing4:




When I saw this comment and in the corner of my eye the picture I was smiling... :biggrin:

"We don't have time to take pictures but there is always time to take pics of .....  :peepwall:


Anyway, then I saw that you googled the pic for research purposes  :lol8: :lol8:
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Offline Minxy

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #62 on: October 01, 2019, 08:39:59 am »




We ride the big dirt road to Opuwo. We didn't stop to take too many photos as we wanted to keep moving and not die of boredom lol :laughing4:




When I saw this comment and in the corner of my eye the picture I was smiling... :biggrin:

"We don't have time to take pictures but there is always time to take pics of .....  :peepwall:


Anyway, then I saw that you googled the pic for research purposes  :lol8: :lol8:

I have a photo of real himba coming up soon though! :D The etiquette around photo taking is not something I understand very well around here. I think you have to pay people if you want to take a picture of them? I don't want to be "that chick" that walks around like a Chinese tourist awkwardly taking photos of random people around town, that is just not my style haha! :P Especially since I only had my cellphone for photos on this trip, no real camera.

Anyway I'll have to come back with one of those paparazzi camera lenses when we have a back up vehicle at some stage, then I can sneak some good shots :biggrin:
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Offline Minxy

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #63 on: October 01, 2019, 08:43:04 am »
When we did the car trip in Namibia we were not to impressed at Palmwag. Pity they couldn't help you. You couldn't just make a turn at the ablutions the night and morning and wild camp next door out of sight....?

We didn't want to push our luck, I'm happy it worked out the way it did though, otherwise we wouldn't have discovered Khowarib Lodge. It is actually very nice there, and at R150p/p camping is super affordable. It was R540 at Palmwag. Palmwag is nice and central though, so we'll probably stay there again. Will just have to remember to book next time :-[ The place was overrun with tourists! :o

Very good to hear that things have improved at Khowarib.  On our last Kaokoland ride we booked a camp place there.  We arrived at about 16:00 and they flat-out refused to serve us dinner, because we didn't book the dinner itself before 15:00.  This silly requirement wasn't pointed out to us when we booked nor on the website.  In the end we cornered and paid the cook directly to cook food for us.

Loving the RR, keep it going!

Glad you are enjoying it :D When you have a chance can you please look at the picture of the map I posted at the bottom of the previous page? :) You guys know this part of the world so well, maybe you know the road I'm asking about.

And mmmm, we didn't have dinner there as we ate at Palmwag, but I think booking may still be required. I know you have to book breakfast the previous night as well (R110 per person). This seems to be the norm with many of these places? I remember last year we had to book at Epupa Falls for dinner too and they couldn't help us the first night as we arrived late. We didn't have any breakfast when we stayed over this time though as we left quite early.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2019, 08:45:19 am by Minxy »
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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #64 on: October 01, 2019, 08:53:42 am »
I am enjoying your ride report Minxy! I hope I will also be able to ride in that part of Nam soon
 

Offline Straatkat

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #65 on: October 01, 2019, 11:52:44 am »
You guys went to a lot of places I have memories of, pity about missing out on Robbies pass, it is quite hectic with many rocks, but that depends how well you ride rocks and the length of your legs to save it if it goes wrong. Both myself and Justin battled with the rocks, but Xpat cruised over them, even coming back on occasion to see what is taking us so long, he just cruised those rocks like it was dirt highway, after spending some weeks riding Lesotho... You guys would have been just fine. Those 500's are just amazing bikes!
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Offline Noneking

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #66 on: October 01, 2019, 12:22:50 pm »
Nice RR!
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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #67 on: October 01, 2019, 03:47:53 pm »
... so little time to prepare, and still hosting me for the weekend?! Thanks, it was the best! :biggrin:

Loving the RR so far, please continue :sip:
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Offline cloudgazer

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #68 on: October 01, 2019, 03:53:59 pm »
What a trip!

But the pics of all the soft sand.... just looking at them makes my butt pucker.  :biggrin:
 

Offline Minxy

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #69 on: October 01, 2019, 05:12:10 pm »
... so little time to prepare, and still hosting me for the weekend?! Thanks, it was the best! :biggrin:

Loving the RR so far, please continue :sip:

If we had to do it all over again we wouldn't change a thing :P It was wonderful to have you!

What a trip!

But the pics of all the soft sand.... just looking at them makes my butt pucker.  :biggrin:

You've really got to put your best sand hat on when you decide to ride this part of the world. With a smaller bike, like the 500, the sand is an absolute pleasure to ride though, even with all the extras we carried :ricky:
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Offline Rough Rider

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #70 on: October 01, 2019, 05:47:29 pm »
Awesome RR  :thumleft:
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Offline Mikie

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #71 on: October 01, 2019, 06:57:53 pm »
Keep it coming, I love reading your reports, Minxy  :thumleft:
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Offline Minxy

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #72 on: October 01, 2019, 07:02:10 pm »
Tuesday the 17th of September 2019

This time we leave early, really early. Today would be the big day.



We ride in darkness with dawn slowly breaking behind us. Opuwo to Okangwati.


Petrol proved easy enough to find in Okangwati, and even though the lady selling it was still in her pyjamas, she was more than happy to help :) We put in about 5L each and took care to filter the fuel.

We follow the D3703. As you can see this is not your typical Namibian dirt highway.




The landscape becomes more and more harsh, arrid and rocky.

We cross numerous riverbeds.












The terrain keeps getting more menacing.


But also more beautiful.







We hear another vehicle approach. An unexpected sound in this part of the world. It is the Namibian Red Cross. We have a quick chat with them. They say they are busy with an outreach programme where they take take medicine to the remote villages in the area. They are also looking for alternative water sources. Such a noble cause, at least the people here are not forgotten. They asked us if we know what to expect from the road up ahead. I say yes, I know it, I've been here before.



We exchange our goodbye's and continue towards the first big hurdle on our way to Van Zyls Pass, Heartbreak Hill.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2019, 08:14:59 pm by Minxy »
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Offline Highsider

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #73 on: October 01, 2019, 08:06:47 pm »
Keep it coming...


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Offline Minxy

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #74 on: October 01, 2019, 10:17:05 pm »
Tuesday the 17th of September 2019 (continued)






The infamous Heartbreak Hill.

More flashbacks. This one was fairly tough on the Africa Twin back in 2017. It's one of the numerous places on route where we stopped to help each other. While riding today I looked at things from a fresh perspective. None of this was really difficult on the 500... When I was looking at the route during our planning phase, Xpat told me we should be fine to do the entire stretch from Opuwo, to Okangwati, over Van Zyls Pass, past Rooidrom, over Joubert's Pass and to Marble Mine Community Camp in a day. I was a little bit skeptical. During Honda Quest this took us two days, two LONG, full days! Guess we'll just have to see how our progress goes.


Riding the big boy back in 2017.


Lots of teamwork.


And so we prevailed.

Present day,


Looking back to the path we came from.


Looking at the road ahead :)






HSK is excited! Lets do this!. Yes, lets go! :ricky:


This video shows the approach to Heartbreak Hill, as well as us going up and over. Yes, we did make it alright 8) Forward to 5:10 for HB Hill.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2019, 08:15:16 pm by Minxy »
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Offline Bikerboer1973

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #75 on: October 01, 2019, 10:56:38 pm »
Mooi man lekker vid dankie! You guys make it look easy!
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Offline McSack

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Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #76 on: October 02, 2019, 06:26:20 am »
Tuesday the 16th of September 2019 (continued)

]

The infamous Heartbreak Hill.

More flashbacks. This one was fairly tough on the Africa Twin back in 2017. It's one of the numerous places on route where we stopped to help each other. While riding today I looked at things from a fresh perspective. None of this was really difficult on the 500... When I was looking at the route during our planning phase, Xpat told me we should be fine to do the entire stretch from Opuwo, to Okangwati, over Van Zyls Pass, past Rooidrom, over Joubert's Pass and to Marble Mine Community Camp in a day. I was a little bit skeptical. During Honda Quest this took us two days, two LONG, full days! Guess we'll just have to see how our progress goes.

.

Present day,

..
Looking back to the path we came from.



This video shows the approach to Heartbreak Hill, as well as us going up and over. Yes, we did make it alright 8) Forward to 5:10 for HB Hill.
You guys make it look too easy.  I remember that ride to van Zyl's camp being a very long day

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« Last Edit: October 02, 2019, 06:29:00 am by McSack »
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Offline Monkey#13

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #77 on: October 02, 2019, 06:46:20 am »
Thanks for the video! After seeing how it shakes you around on the bikes, I have no intention of taking the family on an overlanding trip there, ever! A couple of friends on bikes? For sure! 4x4 with wife and toddler? Not so much...
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Offline MonkeyNot

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #78 on: October 02, 2019, 11:20:38 am »
SUB  :sip:
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Offline Straatkat

Re: Hearts in the Desert
« Reply #79 on: October 02, 2019, 08:11:23 pm »
The last step of Heartbreak Hill is the killer. It is fairly rough going up and if your line is not perfect that last ledge will catch you out.
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