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Author Topic: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going  (Read 4453 times)

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Offline Fuzzy Muzzy

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #60 on: October 08, 2019, 10:32:49 am »
Awesome ride report, thank you, it was very entertaining and well written.  :thumleft:
Africa trip, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania & Moz rr http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=61231.0
 
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Offline VaalBaas

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #61 on: October 08, 2019, 10:59:11 am »
Its not finnished......yet

Sy dink nog waarheen om volgende te gaan :lol8: :lol8:
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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #62 on: October 08, 2019, 11:24:53 am »
Multitasking of Babbel op 'n ander plek  :laughing4:

I WOULD RATHER BE AN HONEST ASSHOLE .... THAN A FLIPPEN LIAR !   


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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #63 on: October 08, 2019, 01:41:31 pm »
Multitasking of Babbel op 'n ander plek  :laughing4:

TsÍk djelle! Ek is besig om my brood te verdien in die sweet van my aangesig, ons kan nie almal sulke niks-doen poste hÍ soos julle nie >:D :sip:
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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #64 on: October 08, 2019, 01:48:48 pm »
 :laughing4:

I WOULD RATHER BE AN HONEST ASSHOLE .... THAN A FLIPPEN LIAR !   


Ducati 100cc Mountaineer, Honda 550 K3, Suzuki Gs1000E, Suzuki Gs1000G, Suzuki 1100 Katana, BMW R1100RT, BMW R1150RT,,,,,All gone. Only 2014 ST in the garage at the moment... And Honda XL 600
 

Offline ClemS

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #65 on: October 08, 2019, 04:49:14 pm »
Wat 'n lekker lees!! Dankie, die moeite en die fotos en die goed geskryfde RR is eie aan jou @Ri, dis 'N plesier en 'N saamtoerÖÖ  :thumleft: :sip:
 
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Offline Dacquiri

Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #66 on: October 10, 2019, 10:58:24 pm »
Thanks for the great ride along Ri. Looking forward to the rest!   ::)
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Offline Mr Zog

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #67 on: October 11, 2019, 02:47:36 am »
Absolutely brilliant RR Ri Ri  :thumleft:  :ricky:


Awesome that you get to head out solo and follow where the tracks may take you. Inspirational  :thumleft:
Young enough to know I can, old enough to know I shouldn't, stupid enough to do it anyway.
 
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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #68 on: October 11, 2019, 09:59:24 pm »
Day 9

I wake early with the beginnings of a migraine caused by an allergy to the down duvet I'm sleeping under. I try and snooze it away, but it hangs on, sloshing around very gently when I move my head. I drink water and a cup of coffee, and eat my soaked rolled-oats-and-cranberry/raisin mix, but it doesn't dent the lingering pain.

I pack up my stuff and load up the bike, then swallow two Comprals from my meds kit. I pull the door closed without locking it, keys in the door, as my landlord suggested. My head stops aching but I feel "pap" when I take to the road. Still, a little thrill passes me when I turn on to the Moedverloor pad. What lies ahead today?

Leaving civilisation, such as it is, behind:




First closed gate of the day:




Soon after I ride into a farm yard and become confused by the roads. The better looking road seems to turn into a sheep kraal, while the road heading to the right looks decidedly dodgy and seldom used.  Ah well, I can always turn back, and I take the dodgy way. Turns out to be the right way, but there must have been a lot of rain here at some point. There are two road sections next to each other, one that was at some point probably submerged, and a higher smoother path to the right of it. Tough, I'm already on the rocky bad section. I stand up and bounce over the rocks. Soon, the road becomes smoother again. More closed gates await...








The road swoops up and down and gently from side to side. It is a beautiful valley, with old grass huts still inhabited by the farm workers. I keep a lookout for Rooibos, as this is where it is grown, but it's not until much later and higher that I see what I suspect to be the plant.




I pass a cave to the left, take some photo's, and carry on. On impulse, I turn around, park the bike and walk up to the cave for a little break. I'm exhausted, but it is beautiful and peaceful here. I have a cup of Rehidrat, and start to feel more energetic. This would make a great wild camping spot, if I could find a place to hide the bike.














My happy place :)




An example of the grass huts. They are made with a number of woven straw mats tied onto a frame. Theoretically one should be able to take it all down and build again on another place.






I soon reach the top and the road carries on more evenly. Here the gates are closed, but there are cattle gates far to the left or right of the closed gates.

Interesting farm equipment, I can't remember what this was used for.






Big kloof to the left



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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #69 on: October 11, 2019, 10:12:24 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

On the right hand side, I pass a board that faces away from me. I glance around to see that it is Papkuilsfontein, where the ruffian suggested I stop for lunch, and maybe to camp out. But it's only about 11:00, too early to stop riding for the day.



I wander around the little shop with beautiful cheap pottery and expensive ostrich leather purses. The bathrooms are delightful.












The restaurant is unfortunately already closed for the season, which is only from mid-August to mid-September. The chef and kitchen staff only prepare meals for the visitors who are staying in the cottages.













Watch your savings grow




Only R10 for these beautiful postcards




The lovely ablutions






I now absolutely must have a basin like this in my bathroom :o

« Last Edit: October 12, 2019, 03:41:40 pm by Ri »
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Offline big oil

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #70 on: October 12, 2019, 04:48:50 am »
 :headbang: :happy1:

6 + days left, c'mon, git it dun  ;)
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Offline VaalBaas

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #71 on: October 12, 2019, 07:43:02 am »
Dit is toe moontlik....time travel....of so lyk dit. Of dalk weet jy ook nie waar jy was toe jy nie geweet het jy jy wil heen nie.......OK dit maak ook dalk nie sin nie  :lol8: :lol8: :lol8:

Anyways wat ek wou sÍ is jy begin op Day 9 en dan ry jy weer verder op Day 8 (cont'd) :ricky:  :biggrin:

Ek lees lekker Riana. Sien net ek sal n kaart moet nader trek om tred te hou met die zigzag roete :deal:
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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #72 on: October 12, 2019, 08:30:29 am »
Dit is toe moontlik....time travel....of so lyk dit. Of dalk weet jy ook nie waar jy was toe jy nie geweet het jy jy wil heen nie.......OK dit maak ook dalk nie sin nie  :lol8: :lol8: :lol8:

Anyways wat ek wou sÍ is jy begin op Day 9 en dan ry jy weer verder op Day 8 (cont'd) :ricky:  :biggrin:

Ek lees lekker Riana. Sien net ek sal n kaart moet nader trek om tred te hou met die zigzag roete :deal:

I have strange skillz O0 (fixed it, @VaalBaas :laughing4:)

Yes, my route was very zigzag and not well planned - actually, not planned at all. It's like a connect-the-dots puzzle: I had a vague idea of roads I wanted to ride and places I'd like to visit, but in my typical navigation style (i.e. second-guessing myself until I made up my mind) I ended up going all over the Karoo.

I originally wanted to go to Fraserburg after the Rally, it would've given me opportunity to ride Gannaga Pass again, or even a slightly longer way to Ouberg Pass, and from there maybe down Rammelkop Pass towards Merweville.  Then the Richtersveld beckoned, which is why I turned towards Niewoudtville... but I soon realised a week wouldn't be long enough for a leisurely ride to the Orange River.

And Gerrit had asked me VERY nicely to please make a plan to stop by Oasis again ::)

Nicest thing was that really I wasn't in a hurry to get anywhere... or so I thought :eek: (Dun-dun-DUN!)
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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #73 on: October 12, 2019, 10:41:09 am »
Interesting farm equipment, I can't remember what this was used for.

Dis n Sunshine sleep stroper. Het nie sy eie engine word deur n trekker gesleep wat die aandrywing ook verskaf.
Was vroeer jare baie populÍr in daai areas en Namakwaland omdat hulle baie goed kort koring kon stroop en vroeer jare het hulle net  kort kultivar koring gesaai omdat dit soveel minder reen in daai areas en dus koring verkies met n kort groeiseisoen.
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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #74 on: October 12, 2019, 04:28:05 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

The owner (I assume) of Papkuilsfontein explaining to an old man who wants to ride to and then walk up the Kobee (I misheard/misunderstood that as "korbeel"), that it might not be a good idea if his wife has difficulty walking.  To the right is the chef, a friendly and gentle man with a slight stutter, dodging back to the kitchen.




The chef tells me that although the restaurant is closed, he can offer me a beer, and soon appears with a little silver tray with a glass and bottle of beer on it. It's still early in the day and I go sit outside, taking my time on the beer. An air of tranquility rests everywhere.






When my beer is finished, I walk inside to beg a cup of coffee to help sober me up so I can be on my way. The chef is very accommodating, and even offers to to make me a toasted sandwich with just-baked homemade bread, caramelised onions and cheese, and a salad. I accept very gratefully, happy to line my empty stomach against the alcohol.

In the restaurant area, this array of hanging plants and crockery fascinates me.









For @Crossed-up, a rock with history:




I love this little "Huis Apteek" (house pharmacy), considering the size of my box of plasters and meds at home. Even more enchanting is that it still houses some contents.






The standing chair almost dominates this painting, and I wonder whether it is for the violinist, as her dress doesn't seem too extreme for sitting.







NOU gaan ons braai!!




My coffee arrives in beautiful crockery, and the coffee pot holds two cups. I like this place!



Then my toasted sandwich arrives. Huge slices of bread overflowing with cheese and honey caramelised onion sit beside a delicious salad with home made salad dressing.  I eat the lovely salad, then manfully tackle the sandwich, but not even half of it is gone when the chef arrives with the take away box, seeing that I won't finish all of it.




The chef tells me that although he owns property on the West Coast somewhere, he is home barely 2 months of the year. The rest of the time he travels all over South Africa, contracted to cook for two months here, three months there, one month at another place. He is very content, as he gets to travel while doing what he loves, which is cooking. It is much less stressful than running a restaurant, because he doesn't have to worry about infrastructure: he arrives at a venue where there is already a kitchen and a dining area. He can make his own prices, and he trains the staff as well. He has regular clients such as Papkuilsfontein where he spends August and September every year.  He reckons in about 10 - 15 years when he is ready to retire, he might start a little restaurant to keep him busy. It does sound ideal.

My invoice for the Amstel, coffee and the massive sandwich is a whopping R80,00 :eek:

The chef tells me I must definitely visit the waterfall, and explains how I should get there. It sounds suspiciously straight forward, and I reckon I'll give it a shot.  As I wait for the credit card machine to communicate with its masters far away, I spot this write-up of Hel se Pas, which recently blipped on my horizon for the first time on this forum.


« Last Edit: October 12, 2019, 04:28:27 pm by Ri »
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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #75 on: October 12, 2019, 04:39:29 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

The road to the waterfall is fairly straightforward, and lovely. A few times I wonder whether I should have gone a different way (as always) but I figure, how far can I go wrong, and how bad can it be. The previous day's experience of almost dropping off the charts humbles me, yet gives me a quiet confidence: With my Lord...

The chef tells me that in places the track is quite rocky, with a slightly worried frown on his face, describing slabs of rocks like steps. He completely fails to mention the deep soft warm sand surrounding these slabby rocky steps, and I have a few interesting moments dancing with a skittish Panther down the rocks and over the loose sand. There is also a lekker dip through a riverbed, if you ignore the sign that points to swimming holes further along, and turn to the right following the sign that says "rock pool" or some such.








Hmmmm seems Panther might be leaking brake fluid...or just oozing awesome? :lol8:




Surprisingly I find the waterfall, exactly where the chef described it.








I think I should camp here some day and walk around a bit. Stunning, stunning place!




It is imposing even without water - I would love to see it in full flow.














Makeshift stand enlarger, as there are no stones within reach




After photographing the waterfall and beautiful valley from all angles, it is time to be on my way again






Maybe next year I'll do a @Nama Bike Camp flower tour, apparently it goes through here.




« Last Edit: October 12, 2019, 04:46:20 pm by Ri »
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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #76 on: October 12, 2019, 05:08:34 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

Soon I reach Niewoudtville and ride through, looking for a fuel station. I find one on the right, almost at the end of the town.



The proprietor fills up the tank and takes a look at the brake line. He comes back with tools and after tightening it, confirms that it was only a little loose, and didn't seem to leak too much fluid. I look at his windows crowded with bikes, and then notice a small hand-written sign with an invitation to pay R25 to come inside and take a look around. Out of curiosity I pay, and enter a motorbike wonderland, which I know many of you have visited. Apparently all these bikes are in good working order, and all have keys. If you're willing to pay the price, all of them are also for sale...






Love this numberplate :lol8:






Motorised bicycles, apparently antiques.


































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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #77 on: October 12, 2019, 05:20:05 pm »
Nou hoekom neem jy nie n foto van n 1958 BSA Bantam daar nie :imaposer:

I WOULD RATHER BE AN HONEST ASSHOLE .... THAN A FLIPPEN LIAR !   


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Offline Ri

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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #78 on: October 12, 2019, 05:31:21 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

Such magnificence under one roof  :drif: :drif: :drif: :drif: :drif:






















The bikes are all covered in dust, but as his wife says: this is a museum, not an art gallery. He recently sold a few to make space for more. I better revisit the budget, because I would love love love to own one of these beauties...

I get directions to Hel se Pas, which seems to be quite easy to reach from the top side, and head out again. I haven't really taken note of the time, and it is heading into the afternoon when I leave Nieuwoudtsville.






I reach the closed (and padlocked) gate as mentioned, and see the crude hand painted sign pointing me towards my next challenge. I take the opportunity for a  bush comfort break, a regular occurrence now, because I'm drinking as much water as I can stand. The hated bush pee has become the tolerated bush pee; on these deserted roads I don't have to worry so much about being caught with my pants down.




The plateau ridge awaits, where the earth drops away.







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Re: Tankwa Trek (16 - 30 Sept 2019): Oh I don't know where I'm going
« Reply #79 on: October 12, 2019, 05:31:53 pm »
Day 9 (cont'd)

Then it's onwards and downwards, and more downwards, and then even more downwards... it drops in short steep little downhills, covered here and there in shiny smooth almost tractionless rocks, ending in tight hairpins. It is a joy to ride, bum out of the saddle and far back, foot on the back brake and hand feathering the front brake and clutch, balancing a tightrope between crawling and stalling. The sights are beautiful to behold, and so is the handiwork on this pass.




























Tales of the Purple Turtles: Ride Reports
PROJECT SAS WILDEHOND III Contributions: R Snyman Capitec Savings Account 1545860511 Balance (2017/12/07): R3,190.23 - R1,600 for steel purchase