DR650 Time for a service.

[Spectaitor]

I'd like to do a full service on my DR and have absolutely no idea where good places are to get these sort of things.
Below is a copy off the ProCycle website and while all those parts cost about R2k, shipping is another R1k at its cheapest.
I'd like to get some decent aftermarket stuff to ensure best life lived for my boi.

Where do you guys get your stuff here in SA other than spending buttloads of money at dealerships? I'm based in KZN so going to a shop in Somerset West won't help me unless they'll ship to me. Ballpark prices would help too if possible and maybe certain part numbers etc.

I can probably make a plan with regards to the feeler gauges and the spark plugs shouldn't be hard to find but not sure about the rest.

DR650 '96 - '21
The Total Tune-Up Kit. All the parts you need to do a complete tune-up on your beloved beast.
Valve Adjustment Wrench
Feeler Gauges (.004" & .008")
Breather Filter
10-Pack of Oil Filters
Magnetic Drain Plug
Oil filter magnet
O-Ring Kit
Twin Air Filter
CR10E Spark Plugs

I'd like to also document everything that I do with pictures, maybe video as it's my first time doing this and it might help someone else doing it for the first time, also a good way to get pointers from others.

[Ri]

Or take a ride down to Somerset West and come get the stuff here, your DR will thank you (for the ride)

@IanTheTooth might know what is available, where, in your valley.

[Spectaitor]

Definitely will happen soon but a bit of a paradox having to do the service before I smash that many km's 

Battling to get more than 150km before hitting reserve on my tank, that's 15kmpl, my wife's Sandero does better so feel doing a full checkup is in order.

[Ri]

Definitely will happen soon but a bit of a paradox having to do the service before I smash that many km's 

Battling to get more than 150km before hitting reserve on my tank, that's 15kmpl, my wife's Sandero does better so feel doing a full checkup is in order.

Yowzer that's rough! How fast do you ride? Even with a pumper carb and a heavy hand, I managed to get 15 km/l, until the pumper carb was tuned to a more frugal 17 - 18km/l.

My other DRs are even more economical with their standard carbs, and do about 20km/l

@Robin Brown might also be able to give you advice on where to get the parts. If I recall correctly he also serviced his own DRs.

[Spectaitor]

I barely push 120 on the highway and I ride pretty tame without being too boring, I atleast have some mechanical sympathy.
I had a stuck choke cable that I've since replaced, cleaned everything out and then went for a ride and got about 153km before I ran out, I assume I'm running rich and will play around when I take everything apart and do some tuning.

Hoping those tags summon people with better knowledge to help out, thank you Ri.

[Ri]

I'm surprised no one else has offered information or knowledge yet.

You can ping @Dux or @superfoxi, both mechanics with DR knowledge. @Dux tends to my small fleet. 

@LeonDude had a beaut of a DR650 until it was liberated

I know @LRFan used to have a beautiful old DR650, around same age as yours if I'm not mistaken.

[zebra - Flying Brick]

Hi, re: Magnetic Drain Plug

We stock, both 1 inch", as well as 18mm-22mm & 3/4" - 13/16th'

R45. incl.

Cheers
Chris

[frankmac]

Or take a ride down to Somerset West and come get the stuff here, your DR will thank you (for the ride)

@IanTheTooth might know what is available, where, in your valley.

Ian left our shores quite some time back. He's now relieving Aussies of their nashers.

[Ri]

Or take a ride down to Somerset West and come get the stuff here, your DR will thank you (for the ride)

@IanTheTooth might know what is available, where, in your valley.

Ian left our shores quite some time back. He's now relieving Aussies of their nashers.

I know he left, but I thought it was only in the last 6 months. Come to think of it, it must have been almost a year and a half ago now.

[Brinkman]

Sparkplugs, oil and oil filter you should get at any bike shop.

The valve adjustment wrench is not needed if I'm not mistaken. When I did the valve clearences on my DR650 I used a wood screw to adjust the valve adjusting screws.

Feeler quage at any auto shop.

Check the carbs jetting while you at it. My DRZ400SM gives me avout 21.5 km/l and that is with riding the piss out of it

[Spectaitor]

I can get everything like that from Startline, cheap as hell and made by the land of the Corona but I'd like filters that I know arent the bear minimum maybe?
Got the feeler guages already, going to sacrifice a set and bend em at an angle for ease of use and to reduce user error.

The valve adjustment wrench - Not sure what a wood screw is. Can I assume that a valve adjustment wrench is something akin to just a wrench that is the right size? Do other simple tools work?

[DR BIG 750]

Startline filters are fine , valves flat screwdriver 10 spanner and feeler guage,  agree bike seems a bit thirsty, take out carb clean check all setting sizes against manufacturers spec, good luck, take pics of carb strip as a rebuild manual

[LeonDude]

Start with the basics first, plug, oil, filters.
For the oil, don't use GTX, go for Motul, it's a bit more expensive, but GTX is too sticky for the DR clutch.
I used to get everything from Startline. My bike ran so well that it ran off without me one day.
 
If the bike starts fine, do you really need to do the valves? But I guess if you're going in as far as the carb, it's a good time to do the valves too.
Make sure carb is in original spec. First sort out that fuel usage issue, then you can start mods etc.

[the ruffian]

I use Castrol Activo oil.
Clean your air filter thoroughly.

And then ride at the sweet spot, which is 95-100kph ( if your gearing is stock). Of course the bike can go faster, but what for?

And then,like me, you might get 22-25kph ( my carb/airbox/exhaust set up is stock standard, and there is 30,000 k’s on my clock, 25k of which i’ve Put on).


Just for interest, riding as above , I get 27-28 kph on my KLR ...

[Spectaitor]

Last thing i'm fuzzy on is air filters, some clean with oil, some are dry??

[LeonDude]

Last thing i'm fuzzy on is air filters, some clean with oil, some are dry??

If you have a paper filter, it's dry.
If you have a foam filter, use filter oil. The idea is that dust and stuff will stick to the oil. Don't use too much oil, just enough to make the whole thing sticky. It's a messy job, I found the best method was to put the foam filter in a plastic bag and then add oil slowly, rubbing it into the filter inside the bag to keep your hands clean.
Before fitting the filter, apply a bit of grease to the part where the filter touches the body, and don't overtighten, as that will bend the filter away from the body, leaving a gap for dirty air to come through.
You will still get your hands dirty and full of oil, but the plastic bag method works, and is very economical on foam filter oil, which is quite expensive.
It takes a bit of trial and error, unless you can get someone to show you.

[Spectaitor]

Thank you!
I'm sure I'll figure everything out, going to probably get to it this weekend or the next and will give updates once done

[Spectaitor]

Haven't gotten to it yet because I'm a little torn on something.

I'm planning on doing as much as I can afford and do my myself now.

I don't know much about jetting but am still finding out, I'd like to take the carb apart and rebuild it (if that is the right term for it) and don't know if I should just replace a few things or get a carb rebuild kit (R1200) from ProCycle in the US. I have no idea what the turn around time on that is.

I have contacted the local Suzuki and asked them for a quote on those items so waiting for that answer.

Now I don't think R1200 is too high a price to pay for a (presumably) brand new carb, would you agree with that or am I being a twatwaffle? Should I just source a couple O-rings and a gasket and the jet locally if possible?

[chopperpilot]

Don't make servicing your DR a complicated and expensive exercise.

Good advise already provided here.

You can use the Hi-Flo oil filter brand. Enquire at your dealer about OEM oil filter pricing too. Keep a few in stock of which ever brand.

The carb is very basic. Learn to take it apart, clean with carb cleaner and put back together. No need for a carb kit.

If your DR performs well, leave the carb alone.

The sponge oil filter needs to be cleaned quite regularly if you do gravel rides.

Dip in paraffin, and wash with 50% water diluted Prepsol, is one option.

Let the filter dry, and spray the filter in and outside with filter oil. The blue sticky stuff. Buy a 2nd filter, so you don't have to wait for it to dry.

Smear some ghries on the filter where it mates to the air box.

No need to change the spark plugs and do the valve clearances to often.

I never imported anything for my DRs.

You can remove and lube the choke cable. The tend to rust from soap water entering the cable at the handle bar lever.

Remove your wheels occasionally, and check bearing and dust seal condition.

The OEM bearings are only sealed on one side. Replace with sealed bearings.

Check the carb breather filter lying on top of the air box. The inner foam deteriorates over time.

I cut a round piece of foam and lubed it with filter oil.

Have fun!

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[Spectaitor]

You say if my DR performs well, leave the carb, I don't think it runs 100% as shown by my fuel economy.

Worried it's all gummed up and wanted to just start with a clean slate so to say, considering I don't know too much about the history of the bike's last 8000kms since that was it's last service stamp whereas owner guaranteed he "just changed the oil". Just to explain why I was thinking of getting the carb kit etc.

Will take the carb apart as is and clean it up and see where I stand then.

Thank you so much @chopperpilot