Chain Oil ?

[blitzer]

My question is, (might be a silly one) but be gentle please... i'm still learning.. #-o

Does the absolute middle of the chain have to have some of the lubricant on or does it need to be completely dry ?

After some research i found many people using 30w/40 gear oil on the chain, will it be ok on the 125 ?
I am very well aware that there might be people that think this is really stupid,

But i have done so and it seems to be much better than the glue that was on there previously.

After i lubed up my chain with the gear oil, i wiped off the sides and drove 10km. Man what a difference compared to the glue that was on there before ! (getting that glue off was torture that cannot be described, but got most of it off) And the new gear oil seemed to have loosened up more of that gunk that was left after the clean)

So the chain is now as clean as it ever was during its life.

Just i'm not 100% sure does those rings (the silver rings in the middle have to have some lube on or be completely dry ?) (those are the rollers yes ?)

Thinking about it, it would be nice for them to have some lube on, but that could attract dirt but if its just a little layer it would actually be good or not ?

Or total metal on metal if i dry them completely ? This just doesn't feel right, but it might be ?

[LouisXander]

.

[Challa]

Dis veliger om oor kerk en politiek te praat as olie

[Tommy Transalp]

WD40..... Wipe chain clean with a cloth, and spray WD40. This cleans and lubricates.
Iv'e used this on the Transalp and get between 25k and 32k on a chain.

my 2c.

[Andre01]

When I got my bike I started to use the fancy lube spray that the bike shops sell to you. I lubed my chain plus minus every 600km. The chain and sprockets only lasted ±15 000km.

After two sets of sprockets/chain I then started with WD40/Q20/Tool-in-a-can. I use this to clean my chain when it become dirty. I then ride around the block, wipe off the WD40 and then apply a thin layer of gear oil.  I re-apply the gear oil when my chain rollers becomes shiny and does not leave a black mark on my thumb. On a trip I will carry a small can of "spray" lube only because it is so easy to apply.

My current set of chain/sprockets is on 25 000km and they will do another 5-10k km. I think the key is not what lube/oil you use, but to ride with a "cleanish" chain and avoid the "grinding paste" that tends to form on your chain when dirty. 

[limacon]

Dis veliger om oor kerk en politiek te praat as olie

 

[zacapa]

chainsaw oil - super cheap and loves to cling on...

[SmuGS]

[blitzer]

Dis veliger om oor kerk en politiek te praat as olie

[blitzer]

WD40..... Wipe chain clean with a cloth, and spray WD40. This cleans and lubricates.
Iv'e used this on the Transalp and get between 25k and 32k on a chain.

my 2c.

wow !

[blitzer]

When I got my bike I started to use the fancy lube spray that the bike shops sell to you. I lubed my chain plus minus every 600km. The chain and sprockets only lasted ±15 000km.

After two sets of sprockets/chain I then started with WD40/Q20/Tool-in-a-can. I use this to clean my chain when it become dirty. I then ride around the block, wipe off the WD40 and then apply a thin layer of gear oil.  I re-apply the gear oil when my chain rollers becomes shiny and does not leave a black mark on my thumb. On a trip I will carry a small can of "spray" lube only because it is so easy to apply.

My current set of chain/sprockets is on 25 000km and they will do another 5-10k km. I think the key is not what lube/oil you use, but to ride with a "cleanish" chain and avoid the "grinding paste" that tends to form on your chain when dirty.

Thank you Sir, this is the route i intend on going, i already have gear oil on my chain.

[blitzer]

Indeed i have watched this youtube a few times over and it convinced me, however someone put a slight dent in my confidence when he said that the guy in that youtube test did not put the chains through the vigorous test of riding at high speed and he argues that the chain gets so hot that gear oil might not be able to take the temperatures of a racing bike at high speeds.

Makes sense, but i'm going to take my chances with gear oil, seeming that people on here get 25k plus on their drivetrains with it ! I added 30w40 on mine.

[Wayne]

Get a bike with a shaft drive.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[chopperpilot]

Chain quality, even same make but different model o-ring chains, differ, resulting in different longevity.

Suzuki DRs were an example, coming out of the factory with a crap DID o-ring chain that didn't last long. DRs are quality bikes in general.

So be careful to make a direct comparison, unless you have the exact same make and model chain.

Riding style makes a big influence. I rode my first 990 like a hooligan. The 2nd and current one I'm a bit more subdued. Tyres last longer. I'm still on my first chain, as the kms are low.

I use Bel Ray white chain wax.

Doesn't fling off, I dont have to clean chain and sprockets, and it attracts little dust to grind the chain.

Of the products mentioned above, is there one that provides good lubricantion and is not flung off onto the rest of the bike?

Chainsaw oil maybe?

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[2StrokeDan]

It has been discussed often, that on the small capacity 4strokes, a high viscosity oil on the chain causes chain to sprocket stiction, and the resultant clutch slipping on pullling away

could be bad for the plates, gears and clutch cable.

[Cracker]

It will be catastrophic on a high power 125 .............................. best you buy some good walking shoes.

Might cost a bit more than the 125 but it will be money well spent.

And will definitely get you places far quicker than a Honda.

[2StrokeDan]

It will be catastrophic on a high power 125 .............................. best you buy some good walking shoes.

Might cost a bit more than the 125 but it will be money well spent.

And will definitely get you places far quicker than a Honda.

 

[Erlin]

Indeed i have watched this youtube a few times over and it convinced me, however someone put a slight dent in my confidence when he said that the guy in that youtube test did not put the chains through the vigorous test of riding at high speed and he argues that the chain gets so hot that gear oil might not be able to take the temperatures of a racing bike at high speeds.

Makes sense, but i'm going to take my chances with gear oil, seeming that people on here get 25k plus on their drivetrains with it ! I added 30w40 on mine.

  :imaposer:What racing and high spped can you do on a Xr200

[BuRP]

It has been discussed often, that on the small capacity 4strokes, a high viscosity oil on the chain causes chain to sprocket stiction, and the resultant clutch slipping on pullling away

could be bad for the plates, gears and clutch cable.

I hate to admit it Dan but you're right, that old story again..... almost forgot about that, don't have a 125 for eons anymore now.
Wheelying also was a problem, but then again maybe I was, after all I'm old enough now these days.
But, if so the he can perhaps make coasters out of his old clutchplates, always looks nice on a bar and often starts lekker conversations!

[Roxtar]

I seem to recall Belray did not fare to well in that F9 comparison..... my same opinion and experience btw...

I have done comparative tests for myself over the years and found regular lube (every 500km) and the occasional lube (only when I wash/.clean the bike around every 1700km equating to once a month on the daily commute) yielded very similar results in chain life....