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Author Topic: The DRZ Thread  (Read 54176 times)

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Offline lecap

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1100 on: June 11, 2010, 09:23:47 am »
know anything about hardening the front forks? i have lots nose dive when i brake hard.

Only one thing hardens your forks:

Decent fork springs.
http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=32471.0

Adjusting the spring preload does exactly that: Adjusting the spring preload (and changing the ride height / negative travel / positive travel).
High preload on a soft spring reduces traction whilst not preventing nose diving and bottoming out on brakes and not curing brake shimmy.

Increasing compression damping t oreduce the nose dive makes the forks ill responding and your wrists sore. Also results in punctures (snake bike) & snapped spokes.

Increasing rebound damping to reduce nose dive does not work at all.

You can get a Maxxis M6006 rear 130-80-18 from Topbox for R580, cant go wrong...

Tracmac supply and fit the same tyre for R523,00  ;)
Hope they also have Djebel exhaust valves for the price of Citigolf ones. Then you must truely love them!
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Offline MildDog

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1101 on: June 11, 2010, 10:10:30 am »
this thing is cool:

http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/

according to this deal I want to go 14-45 or so :) maybe not, just thought i'd share this neat little tool! it seems a back tooth is about 2% change while a front is 7%...

i ride my bike to and from work, and i have maxxis on the bike and its not fun sliding at the traffict lights before my first cup of coffee
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Offline the_wes

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1102 on: June 11, 2010, 10:15:28 am »
this thing is cool:

http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/

according to this deal I want to go 14-45 or so :) maybe not, just thought i'd share this neat little tool! it seems a back tooth is about 2% change while a front is 7%...

i ride my bike to and from work, and i have maxxis on the bike and its not fun sliding at the traffict lights before my first cup of coffee

the mitas e-07 (i think - the heidi lookalike) will give you good tar grip and mileage, while maintaining decent offroad grip... a michelin t63 or desert, or a pirelli mt21, dunlop d606, maxxiss m6006 will all give you varying degrees of better offroad grip, at the expense of longevity and tar grip

 

Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1103 on: June 11, 2010, 10:39:13 am »
this thing is cool:

http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/

according to this deal I want to go 14-45 or so :) maybe not, just thought i'd share this neat little tool! it seems a back tooth is about 2% change while a front is 7%...

i ride my bike to and from work, and i have maxxis on the bike and its not fun sliding at the traffict lights before my first cup of coffee
I like the 15-41 which is the same +- as the 14-45 so makes sense to me
So much of win it hurts! ^.^


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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1104 on: June 11, 2010, 11:37:52 am »
Dont forget that gearing is also dependent on your tyre size...

A smaller (circumference) tyre gives you shorter/lower gearing.

So its pretty much trial and error and coming up with a perfect tyre/sprocket combo.
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Offline MildDog

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1105 on: June 11, 2010, 01:37:21 pm »
I think this is my first non-hijack posting in this thread!

My new baby:

« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 01:49:45 pm by MildDog »
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1106 on: June 11, 2010, 03:24:44 pm »
hurmf chain a lil loose?
So much of win it hurts! ^.^


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Offline letsgofishing

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1107 on: June 11, 2010, 03:29:24 pm »
Nice one MD!
Enjoy your weekend  ;D
There is nothing you can do about the past and you can't predict the future...all you have is the now...live it to the fullest.

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Offline MildDog

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1108 on: June 11, 2010, 04:15:24 pm »
hurmf chain a lil loose?

thanks jan! the chain is in appalling condition, should've seen the kak that was caked onto it when i got it. just cleaned the back rim as well, covered in chain wax and wat not...

my front brake leaks a tiny bit whenever i squeeze. there is a little notch on the side closest to me, so I an see it bubbling slightly if i squeeze hard. i opened it up and inside there is a little groove in the rubber so it looks like it's meant to be doing that???

in the 3rd pic from the bottom you can just make out a thing that could be a manual cam chain tensioner. is it one? how do i adjust it?
« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 04:25:27 pm by MildDog »
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1109 on: June 11, 2010, 08:55:15 pm »
we will sort it all out at my place tomorrow :-p

thats an ACCT not a MCCT
« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 08:55:54 pm by N[]vA »
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Offline sidetrack

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1110 on: June 11, 2010, 10:13:29 pm »
All the 2003 and later models had no issues with the ACCT
Little by little, one travels far
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1111 on: June 12, 2010, 05:15:21 am »
yea, I replaced mine for peice of mind and a slight noise reduction
So much of win it hurts! ^.^


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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1112 on: June 14, 2010, 12:11:31 pm »
I usually run the Maxxis M6006

I have tried the 130 and 140 width. I couldnt find a 140 so I fit a 130 instead.

I wouldnt go smaller than 130 again... it looks crap and doesnt last
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Offline Operator

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1113 on: June 14, 2010, 12:38:35 pm »
The DRZ E comes standard with the 120 backtyre.

You can install a 130 with no problems.

Just make sure before you install a 140 though...........if it is an
aggressive knobblie it might rub on the sides of the swingarm.
 

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1114 on: June 14, 2010, 12:42:52 pm »
You will typically get 130-80-18 or 140-80-18

I havent heard of DS tyres with 90 or 100 aspect ratio...

140 tyre fits the swingarm no problem. You are more likely to experience some chain rubbing...
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Offline sidetrack

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1115 on: June 14, 2010, 12:50:18 pm »
I always used a 120 Dunlop D606.
Little by little, one travels far
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Offline MildDog

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1116 on: June 14, 2010, 12:55:05 pm »
the D606 comes with a 90 aspect ratio... but it seems the general consensus is 80 aspect ratio doesn't matter... i just saw a pic of an M6006, didn't realise what a bad condition mine is in; on the centre the knobs are the same height as the seem  :-\ :imaposer:
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Offline lecap

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1117 on: June 14, 2010, 01:36:10 pm »
I usually run the Maxxis M6006

I have tried the 130 and 140 width. I couldnt find a 140 so I fit a 130 instead.

I wouldnt go smaller than 130 again... it looks crap and doesnt last

130 refers to width: does the other measurement matter, the aspect ratio? because mine is a 120 / 80, i want to go 130 or 140 wide, but also want to get a tire with x / 100, but cant find bigger than 130 / 90 or 140 / 90 neither are offered in x / 100.

If you get a 120/90x18 and a 120/80x18 same brand same thread pattern you will actually see that if fitted onto the same rim the /80's cross section is lower than the /90
Across different patterns and brands there is very little consistency. You'll find that one makes 120 is considerably narrower than another :o
Aggressive knobblies tend to be wider than 50/50's or stuff like Anakees of the same nominal width.
Kenda K270's are aleways narrow and look like knobbly pram wheels :evil6:

In theory a 120/80x18 is supposed to be 120mm wide, have a cross section height of 80% of its width and is supposed to go onto an 18" rim. The last bit is about the only thing that's 100% reliable.

It gets really crappy once you get bike tires in imperial sizes (old standard & new standard) as the "fractions" of the tire width rarely represent fractions of inches ::)

Correct me if I'm wrong:

2.75" tire translates to 80/90
3.00" to 90/90
3.25" (old) and 3.60" (new) to a 100/90
3.50" (old) and 4.10" (new) to a 110/90
4.00" and 4.25" (old) both replaced with 4.60" (new) looks just like a 120/90
5.00" (old) and 5.10" (new) put up as much bulk as a 130/90

There's also other rubbish like 4.50" & 4.75"
Some manufacturers still offer both old and new imperial standard tires ???

Rules:
On most bikes you can fit one size wider than OEM.
Check for enough clearance ALL AROUND the tire sides and top. You should have at least five millimetres on the sides and a centimetre between blocks and wheel cover / swingarm. Don't forget to check clearance to chain guards.
Check for clearance at full compression of suspension. Exhaust! :o
Measuring something before the tire is fitted and inflated does not help a lot. The rim width has influence on the width of the fitted tire.

At the end of the day it's your responsibility to make sure the tire fits.
A fitment centre will often fit whatever you tell them to. If you want them to take the tire back and give you another one that actually fits it might be a different story.

A wider tire of the same pattern and brand giving you better mileage than a narrower one due to it being wider is rubbish.
On the same rim the contact patch is actually slightly narrower.
The reason for the longer tire life of the wider tire is usually a harder compound as wider tires are designed for heavier, more powerful bikes.
The longer life comes obviously at the price of reduced cold & wet tar traction.
The wider tire often has advantages in sand.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 09:16:28 am by lecap »
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Offline letsgofishing

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1118 on: June 17, 2010, 08:56:04 am »
informative post LeCap
There is nothing you can do about the past and you can't predict the future...all you have is the now...live it to the fullest.

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Offline MildDog

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #1119 on: June 19, 2010, 01:02:57 pm »
check out this cool motard info site, they sell ready-made motard kits for DRZ, DR, KTM and husaberg :)

http://home.exetel.com.au/bkm/cast-wheels-motard-drz/index.htm
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