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Author Topic: The DRZ Thread  (Read 68941 times)

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Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #800 on: February 04, 2010, 09:52:29 am »
My XR4 takes 1.8L with filter change (also has an oil cooler) with the recommended oil change interval 1000 miles
I do a change at least every 1600-1800km

the dakar takes 2.4 litres i think and its replaced every 10000km

all depends on the specific engine and the usage of the engine

 

Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #801 on: February 04, 2010, 09:58:50 am »
I never do more than 2000km with a load of oil.

Its a small price to pay for the peace of mind...
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Offline Etienne2T

Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #802 on: February 04, 2010, 10:10:41 am »
Oil every 2k, oil and filter every the 2k after that
 

Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #803 on: February 04, 2010, 10:23:37 am »
Oil every 2k, oil and filter every the 2k after that

At the cost of an oil filter (R45) I am doing them every 2k km's with the oil
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Offline lecap

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #804 on: February 04, 2010, 10:46:06 am »
A build that took so so long should be meticulous, all the best mate. :thumleft:

Should it include testing the vibration behavior of aftermarket mirrors ???  ::)

That bike is supposed to have a stage 1 inlet hotcam, which should be plug & play, no additional work required when fitting it.  ???
I would not trust this or anything else to be given on an engine where some moegoe forgot a number of quite essential parts like thrust washers and retainers.
Increasing compression by skimming off the head a bit gets you to "piston desmodromic" quite quickly. This is countered by enlarging the valve pockets in the piston. If you fit an OEM or like OEM generic piston you quickly get too little clearance between piston and valves. Note that a piston contacting a valve will in most cases NOT be noticable by turning the engine over but will only occur when dynamic effects come into play under certain load conditons in the running engine.
Similar problems can also occur if a cam shaft like the stage 1 Hotcam with adjustable timing chain sprocket is fitted & adjusted out of spec.
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #805 on: February 04, 2010, 01:00:40 pm »
Ok so I shortened the bolt and used a rubber thing as a washer and its not the mirror, unless the glass part of the mirror is vibrating in its mount but it doesn't appear to be o.O

back to stripping things then I guess
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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #806 on: February 04, 2010, 01:46:54 pm »
Ok so I shortened the bolt and used a rubber thing as a washer and its not the mirror, unless the glass part of the mirror is vibrating in its mount but it doesn't appear to be o.O

back to stripping things then I guess


I had the exact same thing with mine, and it WAS the mirror part itself rattling inside the housing. Try riding and clamping the mirror with your one hand and see if it goes away.

I fixed mine by pumping clear silicone into the gaps between the glass and the housing.

Also check tank mounts... And possibly passenger footpegs if they are still there.
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Offline Oros

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #807 on: February 04, 2010, 01:47:22 pm »
Should it include testing the vibration behavior of aftermarket mirrors ???  ::)

 :laughing4:It should include a test ride to see that everytjing is 100%

N[]vA take the mirror off & then take it for a ride,happy :ricky:
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #808 on: February 04, 2010, 01:48:27 pm »
Ok so I shortened the bolt and used a rubber thing as a washer and its not the mirror, unless the glass part of the mirror is vibrating in its mount but it doesn't appear to be o.O

back to stripping things then I guess


I had the exact same thing with mine, and it WAS the mirror part itself rattling inside the housing. Try riding and clamping the mirror with your one hand and see if it goes away.

I fixed mine by pumping clear silicone into the gaps between the glass and the housing.

Also check tank mounts... And possibly passenger footpegs if they are still there.

hurmf tank mounts might be a plan
So much of win it hurts! ^.^


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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #809 on: February 04, 2010, 01:55:57 pm »
Tank mounts, meaning the rubber bungs/bumpers under the tank where it rests on the frame, at the U-brackets.

 :thumleft:

Also check the plastic fins in front of the radiator...

Good luck... Keep us posted.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2010, 01:56:31 pm by Bus »
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Offline letsgofishing

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #810 on: February 04, 2010, 03:42:17 pm »
Serviced every 5000km?

are you serious?

I would think with only 1.8l oil I would service it every 3000km at the latest.

That's a SERVICE - check valves,  clutch, etc etc
The oil & filter I change every 3000k
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #811 on: February 04, 2010, 03:57:31 pm »
Tank mounts, meaning the rubber bungs/bumpers under the tank where it rests on the frame, at the U-brackets.

 :thumleft:

Also check the plastic fins in front of the radiator...

Good luck... Keep us posted.
Tired all three no luck
So much of win it hurts! ^.^


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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #812 on: February 04, 2010, 04:07:52 pm »
In yer head...?  :P

Shit man, then I dont know...  ???

Oh ya, my handlebars were also a little loose and rattled quite a bit at mid-range... Tighten the clamps...
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Offline Operator

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #813 on: February 04, 2010, 04:12:44 pm »
In yer head...?  :P

a few loose screws ?  :peepwall:
 

Offline buzzlightyear

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #814 on: February 04, 2010, 04:19:40 pm »
A lost bolt/nut/whatever inside the exhaust pipe perhaps?
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Offline N[]vA

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #815 on: February 04, 2010, 04:21:36 pm »
A lost bolt/nut/whatever inside the exhaust pipe perhaps?
hurmf!

ok well I think if I cant find it any where else that pipe is coming off
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Offline Bus

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #816 on: February 04, 2010, 04:25:15 pm »
A lost bolt/nut/whatever inside the exhaust pipe perhaps?
hurmf!

ok well I think if I cant find it any where else that pipe is coming off

But surely then it would rattle also when you rev it at stand still?

Ai Nova, Im away the weekend, but back on Sunday. If you still havent found it by then, you can pop around and I will see if I can help.

Keep in touch...
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Offline wrench

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #817 on: February 04, 2010, 09:31:49 pm »



The racing cam in Jan's bike was not fitted by me nor do I have or could I find any information with regards to it. Took it out & put it back as it was.




Check the cam timing at stock, the Hotcam would use the same numbers 107.5 degrees Lc's at 1mm of lift. Also check piston to valve clearance, intake minimum .95mm, exhaust 1.1mm.
 

Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #818 on: February 04, 2010, 10:16:49 pm »



The racing cam in Jan's bike was not fitted by me nor do I have or could I find any information with regards to it. Took it out & put it back as it was.




Check the cam timing at stock, the Hotcam would use the same numbers 107.5 degrees Lc's at 1mm of lift. Also check piston to valve clearance, intake minimum .95mm, exhaust 1.1mm.

how do you check the piston to valve clearances ???

the only method i know is the clay on the piston etc etc - but that was used back in the olden days with old big block v8's and stuff ???

not sure if that is still the way they do it these days ???
 

Offline wrench

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Re: The DRZ Thread
« Reply #819 on: February 04, 2010, 10:37:16 pm »

how do you check the piston to valve clearances ???

the only method i know is the clay on the piston etc etc - but that was used back in the olden days with old big block v8's and stuff ???

not sure if that is still the way they do it these days ???

Using the clay is on way of doing it...lots of work though for too many inaccuracies. To check the exhaust clearances, turn the motor to 10 degrees BTDC, set up dial gauge on the follower, compress the valve spring and take your measurement, intake valve, use the same method and 10 degrees ATDC.