Author Topic: The DR650 thread (Read 124136 times)

jenks · « **Reply #60 on:** January 19, 2009, 04:05:46 pm »

Here's another US vendor who supplies the 14t:
http://www.kientech.com/DR650ConvNstandardsprocketkits.htm

I have tried a number of South African stores (woa, full throttle, even kayenne) and am battling to source the 14t locally.

runamuk · « **Reply #61 on:** January 24, 2009, 03:10:19 am »

Here is a fun little project that I got to do this summer.

There were no "special" tools needed though a torque wrench and air tools helped.

NOTICE where the missing tooth is from the clutch basket is.........thats right....... it's right between the timing chain and the crank gear.
I rode the bike 60 miles at 70-80 mph this way!

Muk

jenks · « **Reply #62 on:** January 26, 2009, 11:06:50 am »

Nice catch Muk.

I think you posted this on adv as well. No other damage??

runamuk · « **Reply #63 on:** January 26, 2009, 06:24:48 pm »

When the chunk of metal let go from the clutch cage it cracked the case and gave me a small oil leak.--The only tell tale--

I was 20-30 miles from anywhere when it happened. I limped into the nearest town bought a quart of oil and made the 60 mile trek home without incident. --Note to self take a qt of oil with you when out exploring in the desert--

Muk

runamuk · « **Reply #64 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:31:55 pm »

What kind of rubber are you guys using?

I'm running Pirelli Mt 21's but I have thought about the Dunlop 606's.

Muk

Kykdaar · « **Reply #65 on:** January 28, 2009, 08:48:43 pm »

Quote from: runamuk on January 28, 2009, 07:31:55 pm

What kind of rubber are you guys using?

I'm running Pirelli Mt 21's but I have thought about the Dunlop 606's.

Muk

I run D606's front and rear. Extremely good grip (especially in the dirt) and wear's well. Only drawback is the loud humming on tar but I ride with earplugs so it is no big deal.

sidetrack · « **Reply #66 on:** January 28, 2009, 08:50:29 pm »

I like the 606's on my 400.

Bliknêrs · « **Reply #67 on:** January 28, 2009, 09:06:52 pm »

I have had KT966's and currently on Trailwings.
Liked the KT966's better but hoping for better mileage on the Trailwings (only got 5000km from a 966 rear).

runamuk · « **Reply #68 on:** January 29, 2009, 08:27:49 am »

Trailwings will never see my bike, too much loose stuff even on tarmac. They call them "Deathwings" here.

I thought that the Pirelli MT 21's would be greasy on the road but much to my surprise they stick like a street tire.

I currently have 3000+ miles = 5000 km on mine. If the Dunlop 606 has better wear and is as sticky on the road as the MT 21's I may just try them.

Muk

jenks · « **Reply #69 on:** February 04, 2009, 01:59:42 pm »

Quote from: runamuk on January 29, 2009, 08:27:49 am

Trailwings will never see my bike, too much loose stuff even on tarmac. They call them "Deathwings" here.

I thought that the Pirelli MT 21's would be greasy on the road but much to my surprise they stick like a street tire.

I currently have 3000+ miles = 5000 km on mine. If the Dunlop 606 has better wear and is as sticky on the road as the MT 21's I may just try them.

Muk

Hey Muk

I've got Kenda's. They should be called Endas - as in "the enda yer life"

Make the wings feel like gumballs. Downright lethal on wet pavement.

BTW: I repacked my airage freeflow pipe today. Malleted the ends loose and installed the fmf packing. Also drilled five 5mm holes in the top of the airbox near the snorkel hole in an attempt to lean out the bike a little (she's running slightly rich). WOW!!! What an improvement.

I had been riding the bike stock over the last few days (snorkel back in and stock boat anchor exhaust). Boy am I glad to have Mr Hyde back: lovely tone and lots of extra torque low down in the range. Goodbye Dr Jeckyll welcome back Mr Hyde

With apologies to kykdaar (who digs his bike quiet and stealthy

)

Kykdaar · « **Reply #70 on:** February 04, 2009, 02:36:28 pm »

Silent but violent.

Hey Jenks, unless I am mistaken you have made a bashplate for the DR?

You posted it somewhere? Any tips? I must start looking at making one as well.

jenks · « **Reply #71 on:** February 04, 2009, 02:48:56 pm »

Howzit!

Ja - I posted the pics in pooratech. I didn't make a mock-up and went straight to cutting and welding. With hindsight, a mock-up would have probably saved me half the time.

Another tip is rather use stainless than normal steel. I painted my 1,6 mil plate with firplace paint. It's chipping already

Check the pics in pooratech

BTW: Here's a post I made today in advrider. Any advice from the boertjies would be welcome!!

Hi all

I'm riding the bike down to Durban from Johannesburg on the 14th Feb to visit my boet (brother) who has just acquired an F800GS.

I was wondering about carb/fuel mixture settings once I get to Durban (which is at sea level). I'm at six thousand feet here in Johannesburg.

The bike's carb is stock. I've drilled five 5mm holes in the top of the airbox. An Airage freeflow pipe is attached. The bike was running slightly rich.

Will I need to adjust the mixture once I'm in Durban. Never done the fuel settings before.

Any advice??

Gracias

the_BOBNOB · « **Reply #72 on:** February 04, 2009, 02:48:58 pm »

Quote from: Kykdaar on February 04, 2009, 02:36:28 pm

Silent but violent.

Hey Jenks, unless I am mistaken you have made a bashplate for the DR?

You posted it somewhere? Any tips? I must start looking at making one as well.

have a look at the one that LS made

IceCreamMan · « **Reply #73 on:** February 04, 2009, 02:50:59 pm »

Jenks , i think the bike will be fine at sea level.

i think they are prolly jetted for sea level when they leave the factory anyway

jenks · « **Reply #74 on:** February 04, 2009, 03:16:43 pm »

Tx ICM!

kykdaar - here's striker's skidplate. Much better set-up, I think:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=11256.160

Wish I'd seen his post before I started my project

Another tip that just came to mind: when cutting the oil drain hole in the plate, first mark the general area when the skidplate is attached to the bike. Then drill a small pilot hole (off the bike - last thing you want is a hole in the case) check with eyeball 101 to see if it is centred on the drain plug. If not, drill another pilot hole. The reason for this advice: once you cut a large hole in the plate - it cannot be undone/moved - better get it centred with a pilot hole or three.

you'll notice I had some other advice in the pooratech posting. But definitely also check striker's post. He was way more methodical

Kykdaar · « **Reply #75 on:** February 04, 2009, 03:30:08 pm »

Quote from: jenks on February 04, 2009, 03:16:43 pm

Tx ICM!

kykdaar - here's striker's skidplate. Much better set-up, I think:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=11256.160

Wish I'd seen his post before I started my project

Thanks

BTW, when I was in Stilbaai recently I did not notice any adverse impact on my bike.
However, mine is probably running rich compared to yours so the pressure at sea-level may be a bigger issue for you to avoid running too lean.

jenks · « **Reply #76 on:** February 09, 2009, 12:02:20 pm »

Check your clutch and rear brake settings!!!

Howzit dr guys

I have just completed the six thousand K service on the dr650se and found the clutch and rear brake lever settings were way out. They've been that way since I bought the bike in December 07. This is my first bike - so I had no idea what the set-up was supposed to feel like. But now following the service - I'm amazed at how much more planted the dr feels. The rear brake pedal was set way too high - and I'd just become used to riding with my right foot arched above the lever. Much more comfortable now.

Do yourselves a favour and check the settings as specced in the manual available online in pdf format.

The bike now rides so much better!

Worth the effort

runamuk · « **Reply #77 on:** February 11, 2009, 07:24:33 pm »

Jenks, STOCK CARB?

Sighs*

I had such high hopes for you.

I guess I'm going to have to teach you how to hot rod the crap out of your ride!

I'll get my camera out in the next couple of days and take pictures of how it is done!

Muk is one cheap S>O>B so everything I have done is on the cheap!

For less than $100.00 U.S. in parts, I can guide you to 6+ more horsepower and massive improvement in throttle response without sacrificing durability.

(This is not rocket science! I can train a monkey to do it! ---You may take a little longer tho

)

Are you ready?

Muk

Bliknêrs · « **Reply #78 on:** February 11, 2009, 08:03:17 pm »

I'm on stock everything, too, so post away muk, I can't wait!

jenks · « **Reply #79 on:** February 12, 2009, 04:52:05 am »

Quote from: runamuk on February 11, 2009, 07:24:33 pm

Jenks, STOCK CARB?

Muk

Ja, the carb is stock. I don't want to do the jetting - rather go straight to the pumper carb mod when finances permit (procycle) or I properly understand the operation of the carby and can modify a second hand carb here in SA

I am at six thousand feet here in Johannesburg.

What I have done is pull the snorkel and drill five holes in the top of the airbox near the snorkel hole. I've also ground down the header weld and fitted an Airage freeflow pipe. That has already transformed my mild mannered poney into something of a rodeo special