Author Topic: The DR650 thread (Read 128665 times)

jenks · « **Reply #80 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:25:18 am »

Muk

Ja, the carb is stock. I don't want to do the jetting - rather go straight to the pumper carb mod when finances permit (procycle) or I properly understand the operation of the carby and can modify a second hand carb here in SA

I am at six thousand feet here in Johannesburg.

What I have done is pull the snorkel and drill five holes in the top of the airbox near the snorkel hole. I've also ground down the header weld and fitted an Airage freeflow pipe. That has already transformed my mild mannered poney into something of a rodeo special

Looking forward to your posts Muk!

Wild Hearted Son · « **Reply #81 on:** February 12, 2009, 07:20:01 am »

Hi

Anybody know what carb a DR650 uses ?
I'm after a pair of Mikuni BST33SS for my DR800 - the internals on mine are shot.

regards
WHS

runamuk · « **Reply #82 on:** February 12, 2009, 07:52:42 am »

WHS, BST 40

Muk

runamuk · « **Reply #83 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:06:07 am »

Jenks does your bike "pop" on deceleration? If yes you are still lean. If no then you may be rich and see below

At your altitude you are limited only by the amount of air you can get through your system. I'd suggest removing the backfire screen and opening up the entire top of the airbox.

http://www.kientech.com/AirBoxMod.htm

Do not attempt these mods if you are not at 6000ft elevation and cannot rejet. It will make the bike too lean to run.

My best purchase was a dynojet kit from Keintech. This along with opening up the airbox and drilling the slide makes a world of difference if you already have an aftermarket exhaust. Even without an aftermarket exhaust the Dynojet kit is able to get extra horsepower!

Muk

jenks · « **Reply #84 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:31:57 am »

Quote from: runamuk on February 12, 2009, 08:06:07 am

Jenks does your bike "pop" on deceleration? If yes you are still lean. If no then you may be rich and see below

At your altitude you are limited only by the amount of air you can get through your system. I'd suggest removing the backfire screen and opening up the entire top of the airbox.

Muk

Cool Muk

Yeah, spoke to Jesse at Kientiech. He advised me to tread cautiously with the airbox mod - if the bike is rich. He said leaning out the bike is more difficult - hence the five holes drilled. I noticed the snorkel pointed inward toward the centre of the bike (probably positioned purposely out of the airflow) so that's where I drilled the five holes. I would be cautious of cutting the entire top section out - rather just drill a few holes and plug a few if the bike tends too lean. Just my two Zim pennies

My bike doesn't pop nearly as much as it used to. I'll check the plugs after a long ride to see if the bike is still running rich.Note - the dr dudes in Johannesburg will probably be slightly rich at 6K ft.

Most guys on advrider and thumpertalk rave about the jetting mods. I've thought long and hard about it and decided the much more expensive pumper carb replacement mod (about six thousand rands, imported from procycle) would be money well spent in the end. It'll solve the offroad gearing issues, allow you to loft the wheel where necessary

and improve response for road.

An important point for anyone considering the carb replacement is to note that you will experience a massive increase in responsiveness, but not an increase in power!!

GRIM · « **Reply #85 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:50:30 am »

JHB is more around 5000 feet if it makes any difference

jenks · « **Reply #86 on:** February 12, 2009, 02:19:44 pm »

Quote from: GRIM on February 12, 2009, 10:50:30 am

JHB is more around 5000 feet if it makes any difference

Ok - I was working on roughy four feet to the metre. Thanks for the correction! That explains my bike being just slightly rich.

The Mikuni pumper card mod, available from procycle in the US, includes a range of jetting options for different altitudes. So you probably will get a slight power increase, in fact. But the big bonus I've read about online is the improved delivery across the rev range - allowing for power wheelies (if you're that way inclined) or lofting the front wheel over a log, etc (more my mission). This also negates the need for gearing changes as the bike won't bog down on low speed, technical trails.

Oh, and in case you're wondering ... no, I don't work for procycle

jenks · « **Reply #87 on:** February 12, 2009, 02:50:05 pm »

Hi all

I'm considering setting up the gps on my HTC tytnII and rigging it for the bike. I've heard there is an auxillary power outlet on the dr650se - but not sure about its location.

Another question is regarding charging the tytnII while riding. Anyone know if I'd need to mod the power output to match the tytnII's needs??

Gracias!

runamuk · « **Reply #88 on:** February 12, 2009, 07:57:09 pm »

Jenks, the popping is caused by a lean condition.

The DJ kit has a new needle, to improve responsiveness, and drilling the slide also helps tremendously. Once you have jetted it to reduce most of the popping on deceleration you are done jetting.- until you change altitudes-

I'd love to have the pumper carb kit but the performance does not justify the price! ONLY 4 HP OVER DJ KIT (Remember Runamuk is a cheap S<O<B)

The DJ kit, opening the airbox, and an hour of your time is the way to go for less than 1/3 the price! While you are at it get the extended fuel screw so you can adjust the idle circut easily, and get the manual choke kit as the stocker is a piece of crap.

Muk

jenks · « **Reply #89 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:07:52 pm »

Quote from: runamuk on February 12, 2009, 07:57:09 pm

Jenks, the popping is caused by a lean condition.

The DJ kit has a new needle, to improve responsiveness, and drilling the slide also helps tremendously. Once you have jetted it to reduce most of the popping on deceleration you are done jetting.- until you change altitudes-

I'd love to have the pumper carb kit but the performance does not justify the price! ONLY 4 HP OVER DJ KIT (Remember Runamuk is a cheap S<O<B)

The DJ kit, opening the airbox, and an hour of your time is the way to go for less than 1/3 the price! While you are at it get the extended fuel screw so you can adjust the idle circut easily, and get the manual choke kit as the stocker is a piece of crap.

Muk

Cool Muk, thanks!

Kykdaar · « **Reply #90 on:** February 13, 2009, 04:57:46 pm »

Contemplating removing / circumventing clutch switch & sidestand switch (if it has one).

Such items just tend to give you hassle when you do not need it. Also, you can only start the bike with the clutch lever pulled in - does this mean that the bike can not be run started?

Anyone done such mods and can help with some tips on how it is done?

Crossed-up · « **Reply #91 on:** February 13, 2009, 05:10:00 pm »

The clutch switch is easily disconnected. Follow the wires from the clutch to the bunch of wires tied up together behind the headlamp cowl. Find the connector for the clutch switch and disconnect it. Push-starting is now possible. QED.
If I remember correctly LeCap has explained all about the sidestand switch elsewhere on the forum.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #92 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:31:53 pm »

Quote from: Crossed-up on February 13, 2009, 05:10:00 pm

The clutch switch is easily disconnected. Follow the wires from the clutch to the bunch of wires tied up together behind the headlamp cowl. Find the connector for the clutch switch and disconnect it. Push-starting is now possible. QED.
If I remember correctly LeCap has explained all about the sidestand switch elsewhere on the forum.

Thanks, much appreciated

I also thought LeCap mentioned something about side-stand switches but thought it was farm instrument (KLR

) related. Will try and find it.

lecap · « **Reply #93 on:** February 14, 2009, 08:56:56 am »

Never ever had any issues with clutch and side stand switch on any of my 7 DR650SE over the last eight years. Combined mileage of the bikes probably above 400 000 km with two bikes accounting for half that figure.

The side stand switch can cause a split second ignition cutoff on a hard landing after a jump. It's so short you will most probably not even notice it.

You can push start a DR650SE with the OEM safety switches as the side stand switch requires the bike to be in gear and side stand down to cut out. No need to push start with the side stand down

The clutch switch only prevents the starter to operate unless you pull the clutch.

Re the aux. power point: It's the connector for the park light inside the headlight reflector. Most markets bikes do not have the park light but have the connector to attach it on the wiring loom. It is switched and only has power when ignition is on (or on P if your ignition switch has this position). Will check for colour of wires and plug and edit later.

For a permanently connected aux. power point (for example for a Vapor) find the red (positive) and black with white marker (ground) leads on the green ignition switch connector under the tank and tap them.
For a switched positive you can also tap into the orange lead on the same connector.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #94 on:** February 14, 2009, 01:26:51 pm »

Quote from: lecap on February 14, 2009, 08:56:56 am

Never ever had any issues with clutch and side stand switch on any of my 7 DR650SE over the last eight years. Combined mileage of the bikes probably above 400 000 km with two bikes accounting for half that figure.

The side stand switch can cause a split second ignition cutoff on a hard landing after a jump. It's so short you will most probably not even notice it.

You can push start a DR650SE with the OEM safety switches as the side stand switch requires the bike to be in gear and side stand down to cut out. No need to push start with the side stand down
The clutch switch only prevents the starter to operate unless you pull the clutch.

Re the aux. power point: It's the connector for the park light inside the headlight reflector. Most markets bikes do not have the park light but have the connector to attach it on the wiring loom. It is switched and only has power when ignition is on (or on P if your ignition switch has this position). Will check for colour of wires and plug and edit later.

For a permanently connected aux. power point (for example for a Vapor) find the red (positive) and black with white marker (ground) leads on the green ignition switch connector under the tank and tap them.
For a switched positive you can also tap into the orange lead on the same connector.

Thanks LeCap.

Good to know that the clutch switch only revents the starter from operating and that it is thus still possible to push start the bike. Also good to know that it is relatively easy to disconnect if it gives problems.

I will leave the side-stand switch as is for know, but would like to know that I can easily disable it with a field repair if the need should ever arise. Can you advise the easiest way to do this?

Thanks

Jman · « **Reply #95 on:** February 24, 2009, 10:25:26 pm »

Quote from: Kykdaar on February 14, 2009, 01:26:51 pm

Quote from: lecap on February 14, 2009, 08:56:56 am
Never ever had any issues with clutch and side stand switch on any of my 7 DR650SE over the last eight years. Combined mileage of the bikes probably above 400 000 km with two bikes accounting for half that figure.

The side stand switch can cause a split second ignition cutoff on a hard landing after a jump. It's so short you will most probably not even notice it.

You can push start a DR650SE with the OEM safety switches as the side stand switch requires the bike to be in gear and side stand down to cut out. No need to push start with the side stand down
The clutch switch only prevents the starter to operate unless you pull the clutch.

Re the aux. power point: It's the connector for the park light inside the headlight reflector. Most markets bikes do not have the park light but have the connector to attach it on the wiring loom. It is switched and only has power when ignition is on (or on P if your ignition switch has this position). Will check for colour of wires and plug and edit later.

For a permanently connected aux. power point (for example for a Vapor) find the red (positive) and black with white marker (ground) leads on the green ignition switch connector under the tank and tap them.
For a switched positive you can also tap into the orange lead on the same connector.

Thanks LeCap.

Good to know that the clutch switch only revents the starter from operating and that it is thus still possible to push start the bike. Also good to know that it is relatively easy to disconnect if it gives problems.

I will leave the side-stand switch as is for know, but would like to know that I can easily disable it with a field repair if the need should ever arise. Can you advise the easiest way to do this?

Thanks

Kykdaar, I did it in the middle of the Hel, when my switch got water in, I just disconnected the switch at the plug under the seat and bridged it. I have a freewind, but I think the "binnegoed" are the same. Mine would also cut out while going down rocky roads, and would then backfire, thats all gone now since I disconnected the switch.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #96 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:32:44 am »

Thanks for the info JMan

Bliknêrs · « **Reply #97 on:** May 03, 2009, 06:35:14 pm »

I want to put some proper bark busters on and need to order them.
Wheres a good place to order from and what do I need?
Maybe I should change the bars at the same time?
Or is it the bars first and then the rest?

Kykdaar · « **Reply #98 on:** May 04, 2009, 08:12:52 am »

Quote from: Bliknêrs on May 03, 2009, 06:35:14 pm

I want to put some proper bark busters on and need to order them.
Wheres a good place to order from and what do I need?
Maybe I should change the bars at the same time?
Or is it the bars first and then the rest?

As far as I know, barkbusters are not available for the DR. I also want some but have had no joy. Bikegear are the importers.

If you manage to obtain a lead, please let me know.

Bliknêrs · « **Reply #99 on:** May 04, 2009, 11:03:12 pm »

And the generic ones (assuming Barkbusters are a trademark), wouldn't they work?
My OEM hand protectors are useless and looks like sh1t.