Author Topic: The DR650 thread (Read 131940 times)

Mr. Python · « **Reply #3840 on:** September 16, 2016, 01:24:46 pm »

Blou Zebu is making a plan

Crab · « **Reply #3841 on:** September 25, 2016, 08:39:57 pm »

Not all sprockets are equal. Top right, original did 28000km, top left is aftermarket and only did 16000km. Bottom is a new sprocket to compare to. The chain was not stretched, I compared its overall length to the new one I fitted and it was no more than 5mm longer. Taking a file to the sprockets and the two Suzuki parts were hard, about 35 to 40 HRc, while the aftermarket one is as soft as mild steel, about 15 HRc.
For the record, the Suzuki agent quoted me for aftermarket front R230 rear R410 and chain R790
These I later discovered were the slightly narrower parts.
Suzuki parts cost me front R 460 rear R 880 and chain Xring R850
The rear supplied was incorrect, 1 tooth bigger, so after some careful measurements ( I am a Metrologist) and finding no discernible wear in the rear sprocket that had done 28000km, it was used again.

Crab · « **Reply #3842 on:** October 03, 2016, 07:07:27 pm »

One fork seal developed a leak. New seals are R120 each. Read the procedure for stripping the forks, then read about using compressed air to pop the seals out and decided to try a variation of the it idea. Pulled the forks out, remove the top cap, pull out the spacer and spring, fill the fork with oil and replace the cap. Remove the circlip. Compress the fork with a woodwork clamp. As the slider moves down the oil pushes the seal out of the fork. Slip in the new seals and reassemble. Job done quick and easy.

LeonDude · « **Reply #3843 on:** October 03, 2016, 09:18:14 pm »

Quote from: Crab on October 03, 2016, 07:07:27 pm

One fork seal developed a leak. New seals are R120 each. Read the procedure for stripping the forks, then read about using compressed air to pop the seals out and decided to try a variation of the it idea. Pulled the forks out, remove the top cap, pull out the spacer and spring, fill the fork with oil and replace the cap. Remove the circlip. Compress the fork with a woodwork clamp. As the slider moves down the oil pushes the seal out of the fork. Slip in the new seals and reassemble. Job done quick and easy.

Crab, was that not an opportunity missed to replace the oil?
The reason I mention it is that I had a leaking seal when I first got my bike. When I replaced the oil, there was considerable amounts of gunk stuck at the bottom of the forks, took me a long time to clean them out. If I had not cleaned them out, the new oil would not have been of any use.

Crab · « **Reply #3844 on:** October 03, 2016, 09:33:54 pm »

Maybe Leon, but I did turn them over and drain thoroughly. Not having the tool to get down inside to strip the internals I opted for a quick fix.

Bensien · « **Reply #3845 on:** October 04, 2016, 09:49:48 pm »

A tip about fork seals (and many other bike parts). Items like oil seals, bearings etc. are generic items that come in a range of standard sizes. These sizes are incorporated in the design spec of new bikes. If you take your old fork seal to a bearing and seal shop, they will more than likely have the same item for 25% of the dealer’s price.

Umko · « **Reply #3846 on:** October 30, 2016, 10:41:15 am »

Morning guys. My DR650 gets way too many front tyre (snake bite) punctures. Any advice?

chopperpilot · « **Reply #3847 on:** October 30, 2016, 01:33:54 pm »

Quote from: Umko on October 30, 2016, 10:41:15 am

Morning guys. My DR650 gets way too many front tyre (snake bite) punctures. Any advice?

I run either TKC80 or MT21, 4mm HD tube, at 1.8 - 2.0 bar. Not even a puncture. I do the rough stuff.

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Umko · « **Reply #3848 on:** October 31, 2016, 07:49:28 am »

Thanks, Chopperpilot. I got the feeling that the HD tubes helped with thorns but didn't make any difference with snake bite.
I'll take your advice, though, and fit an HD tube now.
I never quite understood lecap's opinion that aftermarket "progressive" springs made a big difference to the DR but, perhaps, these punctures are being caused by the front suspension bottoming?

lecap · « **Reply #3849 on:** October 31, 2016, 09:27:35 am »

You will get a snake bite either if your fork bottoms out or if your forks lock hydraulically. The fires cause explains itself. If you bottom out your forks a lot you can try harder springs or springs with more progression but besides that you might have the wrong bike for the purpose.

The hydraulic lock story is much more common:Some star mechanic thinks the forks are pretty soft. This is true they are pretty soft as the bike comes from the factory. But they actually work very well for "normal" dual sport riding as long as you don't jump and don't thrash the bike around like a Dakar racer.
Problem gets worst when the above mentioned star mechanic changes the fork oil and uses stuff with higher viscosity. For some strange reason this is recommended a lot on the all knowing internet and it's exactly the wrong thing to do. When you hit the next bump the oil will not go through the damper, the forks will feel as if they bottom out with the matching result of a snake bike on your front tire whilst the forks hardly compress.

The Wilbers progressive springs differ from the original ones: The initial spring rate is near identical but the point where the soft coil goes coil bound is different. The progression / secondary spring rate of the Wilbers springs is harder than OEM.
Wilbers progressive springs for the DR650SE are a good starting point. If that's not enough look into damper valves to get a more linear behavior of the forks (less high speed compression damping).
If you are still unhappy after that you bought the wrong bike. Sell the DR and get a 690

Umko · « **Reply #3850 on:** October 31, 2016, 11:46:12 am »

Thanks, lecap, as usual your expert knowledge and advice is much valued.
And, no, my riding style and ability don't justify a 690. In fact, I've just sold the one I had because it was too "hairy" for me and couldn't sensibly carry luggage. But, the KTM's harsh suspension (it felt like an unsprung 1945 Ariel) did make me wonder if my DR should have beefier front springs.
However, it turns out that the puncture I got yesterday was not a snake bite - something stabbed me in the sidewall.
And I've taken note of your previous comments about changing the fork oil viscosity and, when this was suggested by my mechanic, I said, "No, keep it standard".
I'm taking Chopperpilot's advice and putting in a 4mm tube and a new Pirelli tyre. (The dealer says the Pirelli tyre has steel reinforcing as distinct from other makes which have fabric - I don't know if this is true?)

lecap · « **Reply #3851 on:** November 01, 2016, 08:37:07 am »

I very much doubt the steel reinforcement story. Most motorcycle tires are diagonal ply and have 2 to four or sometomes six layers nylon fabric making up the carcass. Occasionally you get tires which have some (or all) nylon layers replaced with stronger and more stab resistant aramid fibers (Kevlar).
The number of fabric layers in side wall and thread surface make the tire heavier, possibly stiffer and possibly more stab puncture resistant. Thread layer count is often embossed into the side wall:Example: Side wall: 3ply nylon,thread 3ply nylon 1 ply kevlar.

You do get belted (Aramid and / or steel) tires but as far as I know these are limited to radial ply tires and typically only made for heavier and more powerful bikes. They should carry a "B" in he tire size code for example "170/60VB17 Radial"

Out of a pair of tires on your bike the rear may be a belted tire whilst the front may be not.

Front tires usually have lower ply ratings (2 sidewall 3 thread to 3 sidewall 4thread ) than rears (3 - 4 to 4 - 6)

ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS · « **Reply #3852 on:** November 01, 2016, 09:26:32 am »

I think 90% of snikebites are tyres that is ridden under inflated.
You cannot expect a tube to not hit the rim when hitting a rock when tyre is a 1.3 or 1.5 bar.

DJ · « **Reply #3853 on:** November 03, 2016, 07:47:55 am »

Hi guys,
Long time since I've been on the forum, my accident damaged DR will be up for sale soon, front end damaged, but speedo, motor, etc all good, bike has 50k km on the clocks. Will keep you updated.
Cheers,
Dale

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NISMARK · « **Reply #3854 on:** November 03, 2016, 10:33:18 am »

Quote from: DJ on November 03, 2016, 07:47:55 am

Hi guys,
Long time since I've been on the forum, my accident damaged DR will be up for sale soon, front end damaged, but speedo, motor, etc all good, bike has 50k km on the clocks. Will keep you updated.
Cheers,
Dale

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any extras/accessories?

chopperpilot · « **Reply #3855 on:** November 03, 2016, 12:02:40 pm »

Quote from: DJ on November 03, 2016, 07:47:55 am

Hi guys,
Long time since I've been on the forum, my accident damaged DR will be up for sale soon, front end damaged, but speedo, motor, etc all good, bike has 50k km on the clocks. Will keep you updated.
Cheers,
Dale

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kaasdief · « **Reply #3856 on:** November 03, 2016, 01:46:52 pm »

Please keep us posted.

DJ · « **Reply #3857 on:** November 03, 2016, 01:58:35 pm »

Quote from: NISMARK on November 03, 2016, 10:33:18 am

Quote from: DJ on November 03, 2016, 07:47:55 am
Hi guys,
Long time since I've been on the forum, my accident damaged DR will be up for sale soon, front end damaged, but speedo, motor, etc all good, bike has 50k km on the clocks. Will keep you updated.
Cheers,
Dale

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any extras/accessories?

Sorry Nismark, all accessories sold just after the accident

LRFan · « **Reply #3858 on:** November 03, 2016, 02:24:12 pm »

What do you want for the carburator, seat and tank?

Kaasdief · « **Reply #3859 on:** November 03, 2016, 03:41:39 pm »

What year model is the bike?