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glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« on: September 15, 2006, 07:38:10 am »
No stuffing around, let's get into it. i'll do an intro a bit later tonight.
It's all Leon's (Leon H) fault, anyway  :lol:
For those on dial-up modems...extend the lines and shove the thing into the freezer, there could be some smoke otherwise    :)  

Tasmania...called Tassie locally....that little heart-shaped (many proclaim otherwise) island south of the OZ Main Land.
Good riding country?
You tell me...
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2006, 07:38:58 am »
A few years back, but...



Feb 2003
2 Weeks,
2 glorious weeks on Tassie's minor roads, linking the best of "sealed" with some interesting dirt.
Ingo showed up on time, emerging battered from the looong Pacific-crossing flight from LAX/ US.
Making Ingo waterproof...or is that the new helmet??


Add Garry on the Dommi (Honda Dominator)?. Ingo and I swapping the XT600 and the Pegaso.
Bikes loaded up around midnight Friday, it was up early Saturday morning to meet David and Sue at Station Pier to see us off.
What one needs...going camping, mate?




The day-cruise proved to be worth loosing a day on-land with the sun burning down and not much to do; things started off the right way.


Impromptu entertainment onboard  :) This guy rocked !!



The bikes seemed to have a life-of-their-own with all the gear on the back?
The setting sun greeted us in Devonport where we dropped off some spare parts for Tim's Pegaso, which did miraculously find their way from the Devonport Fire Station to some place around Hobart within a day?

Then south towards Sheffield via some small and twisty side roads and the locality of Nook, south out of Sheffield via Paradise towards Mole Creek striking it lucky for a bed for the night at the Mole Creek Cabins, a few clicks out of town towards Deloraine.
Checking the forecast while still aboard the ferry, it?d looked like we'd be missing out on the Western Explorer (Smithton-Zeehan) once again, a front was coming from the West.
Looking sweet...


Into Deloraine the next morning; the signs to Liffey Falls (25km south) were too tempting, the first 20km of sealed road a great run of twisties before the 5km of dirt, down into the steep, narrow valley.





After the walk to the Falls it was back onto the bikes and some photos of that little cool gully before the climb up the narrow dirt-road? then turned off onto another dirt road towards Liffey.


At the end of a steep, gravely hill, Ingo stopped at the T-junction (well... nearly stopped, that is), where he decided that the Peg was too heavy, laying it on its side. No big damage, just some paint and a slightly crooked handlebar.

Up north to Westbury for a late lunch, then north again, turning left to Birralee and a sweet little set of twisties to Frankford, then more twisties north to Beaconsfield, a bewdy of a road.


With scenery and sunshine to match, we crossed the Tamar River via the Batman Bridge, and then followed a maze of tiny, twisty roads and turnoffs to Lilydale, most of them sealed. Towards Scotsdale on the main road before a 16km dirt-blast from Nabowla towards Bridport up north.


It was the first time the XT felt good despite all the gear and the last stretch nearly saw the speed limit?

Bridport Backpackers was the only "hole" left, and we had it all to ourselves :)


The sun's out next morning and it's off further east, the B82 running parallel to the coast is fairly boring.
The turnoff to the town of Tomahawk is welcome, we're going for a look-see.


We all stop at a lookout point, then Garry and I get going, Ingo on the Peg doesn't follow. Where the hell is he?
Going back to check on him he's still at the same place, pointing wordlessly at the front tyre: A bloody flat...and here, of all places...
Garry goes scouting for a compressor and returns half an hour later together with a guy in a 4-WD ute, complete with plank in the back. Huhhhh?






The arrangement is a bit complicated, but we're pulling out of town a few minutes later, the Peg on the back of the ute, to drive to some farmhouse and shed where we can find a compressor.






People here are just unbelievable...!!
About lunch and we're rolling once more, with all the best wishes of our saviors heaped upon us.
Further east and the road turns to hard-pack clay/small rock; and speeds are up again with all of us praying that the patched tyre will hold, we've got some serious dirt coming.
Gladstone is the last refuel stop, then further north east on good dirt to the tiny hamlet of Poole



where we try our luck at some beach-riding before it's back again for the 20km loop through the incredibly beautiful Mt. William Nat. Park.






What a place :)) Speechless !







Back towards Gladstone, then a sharp left and east again to Ansons Bay and the lighthouse at Eddystone Point, things getting tricky by the fine quartz-gravel on the road....it's like riding on tiny ball-bearings.





The shoulder is very soft and deep, treacherous, Ingo is probably worst off on the heavy Peg which is shod with Metzeler Tourances (not really made for this stuff), at least he's carrying the lightest load.

Back into Ansons Bay for a quick look, then the final run into St. Helens for some great tucker at the Pub and some well-earned pots.

Quarters for the night was the same B&B as last year, this time the Angelina plum-tree at the car park was raided for some "juicy desserts".



Arrrghhhhh  :o :o :o :o


More sun the next morning, off to Binalong Bay on the coast, then north along the lagoons to The Gardens for a look at the fantastic coastal scenery. Gorgeous !






This little stretch of the coast has become one of my favorites, the absence of commercialism is a blessing.
Back to St. Helens, then south on the main road through Scamander and an all-out chase up the twisties to St. Marys for some 2. Breakfast at the Pancake Shop, back to St. Marys and west towards Fingal for a few km before the turn north onto dirt and some plantation country to Mathinna.

On the way down from the ridge the road was cut through the hillside and a wallaby made the leap-of-faith from one steep bank to the other?.right across the road and above my head, I nearly shit myself.

Still funny to see the critter not quite making the high bank and scrambling for purchase.... the first close one for the day.

From Mathinna west to Upper Esk, then via some shady, hard-packed bushroads up the hills where I thought some friendly log-trucker gave me some way and minimized the dust by stopping on his ascent? just to realize that his mate was coming downhill and was RIGHT BEHIND ME. As in 6ft. Another shaky moment?
Finally back to the blacktop at Upper Blessington before the climb to the Ski-area of Ben Lomond.







This was another one of those targets I've always wanted to go to but never got around to?.good, because on a roadbike it would've been murder.






The scenery is simply overwhelming, the bush in the lower section, the piles upon piles of scraggy rock-chimneys further up, the stunning views, it's just about too much, what a place !!
Up there???? You're shittin' me !!!






After "Jacob's Ladder" the road flattens out onto a plateau, with a small winter (only) resort at the end,



crowned by a few T-bars, not much compared to Mt. Buller or Thredbo, but the scenery beats the mainland-resorts hands down.





We took our time up there, nobody else around, the "feel" of the place put a spell on all of us
(we were also pretty apprehensive of the downhill run). Things worked out fine, then came a relaxing tootle on the way west to Evandale, Longford and Deloraine, the pub in town beckoning with big steaks and cold beer, the beds were forgettable, though. A walk through the quiet town after dark settled the mind after the day's input-overload.

Another bright and sunny morning, the forecast for the west finally promising 3 good days in a row and through Mole Creek, up the hill, then south towards Lake Rowallan.

Just past the main turnoff a dirt road branches left, up the hill towards Lake Mackenzie. Once the ridge is climbed, the views are stunning, Cradle Mtn. a stone's-throw away, and a short walk leads to Devil's Gullet, a great lookout.











Back to the paved roads and it's on for a mad 3-bike chase west to Moina,


then north to Ulverstone on the coast, the rear OEM-Trailwing on the XT600 is toast, a new one found at Steve Blizzards North-Coast M/C, thanks for the quick service with a smile.
 


It's getting too late in the day for more backroads, we make tracks along the coast on the run west to Smithton, just to be unable to find a roof for the night, nobody wants to pitch tent tonight.
After some calls, Ingo comes up with a Heritage Cottage in Stanley, back we go the 30km to be met by a palace, what an adobe? This is style with all the trims. Even enough bits to impersonate the local Don Capo.
 










Tomorrow it's the Western Explorer.
FINALLY? After 3 attempts, THIS time it seems to be a goer. It's OURS !








Weather has always been the deciding factor, Tassie's West is usually wet-and-wild, and this road has had quite some history.


 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2006, 07:40:36 am »
Tassie...the Western Explorer.

Similar to the Cape-Tribulation-Bloomfield Road in North Queensland, it's been dozed through parliament first, and then dozed through the bush after? despite heavy opposition, in both instances.


It's a remote road through an incredibly beautiful part of Tassie, no Maccas, no mobile phones, no Roadhouses?








It finishes at Corinna on the Pieman River, where a small barge takes vehicles across for the last 12km of dirt, then another 35km to Zeehan.



Let the pics do the talking:












In a few words: If you ever have the chance and the weather conditions...DO IT.







It's a magic piece of the world.The guy on the barge is into Dukes and the talk was distracting from the great scenery, the water like oil, the bush thick and lush.



Even the short ride out the other side to the blacktop was special.
I don't want to keep on raving, there's more to come.

Buoyed by the experience, we took the bitumen towards Zeehan, turning off a short stretch later towards the coast at Granville Harbour. While down at the beach, Garry asked around the locals for the track south to Trial Harbour, along the coast, that showed on the map: Yeaaah, mate, no worries, you'll be right?

Off we went then, and things turned from bad to worse very quickly.





It's a rough 4WD track, the colour of the ground changing every 20 meters, boghole after boghole, not really the terrain for our style of heavily loaded trailies.







We kept going for some klicks, then it turned really rough and Ingo and I started to get a bit nervous.

That creek crossing finally got things undone, Garry barreled through it with some artistic body-moves and made it up the other side. His heavy luggage was flopping around like a gas filled balloon, I was fearing for our homemade racks.



I was more cautious, trying to avoid a fall, stalled in the creek, tried to get going again a few times, finally climbed out, just to come down like a sack-of-shit on the next ledge. A big rock stopped the fall with a thump, the left shoulder went numb instantly.
With plenty of help I got out from under the bike, it was curtains for me.



Also no way to get the Peg through this without major damage, Ingo and I turned back, Garry went on for more of the same (and worse), but made it to Zeehan without damage or injury.
On the way back Ingo dumped the heavy Peg on a rough uphiller, adding more battle-scars to the bike along the right-hand side. Back from Granville Harbour we made our ways along the sealed roads south to Zeehan, stopping for a drink, just as Garry pulled into town.
We decided to call it quits and found a unit out the back of the pub.
The girl behind the counter proved to be the daughter of the local welder, handy, since the rack on the XT had crumbled and needed urgent repairs. Some shopping also procured a tube of Deep Heat.
Tonight I got the double bed :), but it was a sleepless night, each ripple over the last 40km had sent sharp stabs of pain through the shoulder and chest.

More sunshine the next morning, off to the welders for me; an hour later the rack was fixed at a cost of $10 while I made the coffee during proceedings?
Ingo and Garry were itching for more dirt roads, south to Strahan we went, those 2 taking the turnoff to Braddon Point, I pulled into Strahan, not up for any dirt or even riding at all.



The Caf�© proved to be the place to be, the sun belting down hard and places in the shade at a premium.
An elderly couple sitting at one of the tables finally had mercy and invited me over into the shade.
After some talking they proved to be a couple of medics (Surgeon and Physio) and checked out the shoulder right there and then: looks heavily bruised, nothing broken...the prodding made me drown in silent tears.

Another muggacino and the Dommi and Peg rolled into town...ready for the way to Queenstown, since beds for hire were scarce in Strahan. What a ripper of a road...and the views to boot.





After making quarters in Queenstown and dumping the gear, Ingo and Garry went out for a ride south to Lake Burburry, I stayed in town, did some shopping, tried to get the contents of the flash-cards transferred to CD (no luck) and checked out the eateries.
The walking seemed to do the shoulder some good.
Ingo and Garry came back raving about the ride and what they'd seen. Their plans were for a road-ride the next day, via Tullah and Reece Dam and once more to Trial Harbour. Too much for me, so I decided to give their afternoon-delights a try and go south the next day.





Checking out roads?? NEVER QUIT !!



Another bright and clear morning made me leave early, leaving the other 2 to their slumber. Up the
Mountain towards Derwent Bridge, overlooking the valley with it's early morning fog still settled low and
looking like cotton wool framed by the rugged mountain backdrop.







Then down into town again, veering
south, the road climbing to Mt. Huxley and some breathtaking views.







Some nice long sweepers on smooth asphalt down to the shores of Lake Burbury, some talk with the people camping there and a walk across the dam-wall and back set the mood for the day.
Onto some good dirt which narrowed after some kilometers, finishing in a single-lane timber bridge next to the signage "World Heritage Area". Another 10km and the road forked left, up Mt. McCall, another great viewpoint.
Then back to the last fork and onto the "4WD only" track, as marked on the map.
It proved to be an easy one, very damp and slippery, underneath a dark and cool rainforest-canopy.







The road ended after 5km in a small car park, from here it was an 11km return walk, following an old railway terrace.
Around the late 1800s, a second mining company had sprung up in Queenstown and built a railway from the Kelly Basin on Macquarie Harbour to Queenstown. It  had it's own brick-kilns close to the beach and even a small township.
Apparently it was a worthwhile enterprise for some 50 years, then it folded.
The track follows the old terrace which parallels the river for some time, before it veers off towards the small bay.






The 800ft long jetty has long gone, National Parks has built a new one to service the remote campground at the site of the old township.
All sorts of remnants are dotted along the way, the old brick-kilns, ruins of the bakery, water tanks, boilers, rolls of thick steel-cable, an overgrown Pullman carriage, footings, bridges?what a great place to poke around for a while and keep finding bits and pieces of yesteryear.







What started as a short snoop-around finished up a 6 hour return trip, partially due to a chance meeting with a ranger who took me across the bay to the old Sarah-Island penal settlement, another historic site of some gruesome ruins.
Along the way back I followed the advice and went water-sliding down the small rapids and a for swim in the rock pool.
What a day !  The ride home was slooow, there was too much to chew-over, the late afternoon mercifully growing cooler.



Saturday night and Queenstown was swinging, well...the bar, at least, the Hawaiian-Party was packed by the 16-20yo crowd, time to get to bed.
The shoulder got better during the day, the longish walk seemed to have done more good.

More sunshine the next morning, we're off to meet up with Tim in Wayatinah, the day's target of the Hobart Ulysses crowd (of 20 or so). Along the A10 towards Hobart, the meet-up proves perfect, right on time and target. I'm on the Peg now, the higher bars and reduced drag on the shoulders by the fairing make it more comfortable to ride.


After some "Hello's" we're off again, now Tim's leading the way. He's showing us some awesome backroads, zig-zagging our way to his place south of Hobart for the night. Dirt, sealed, dirt, sealed, dirt again, it never seems to stop.

 
With 200m to go on the last dirt bit, there's a lefthander coming up. I can see the others already stopped at the next T-junction, waiting for me.
Onto the left "slope" of the road to hook-in, tap the rear brake, a little slip at the back, then the front, foot down...I'm drifting across the humped centre of the road at the apex, slowly sliding towards the grassy shoulder on the right as I go, both wheels hook in solidly, I'm still up...I made it...BANG, SCRAPE, F*$#CK. Front wheel washout as I tried to climb back out of the berm onto the hardpack, and right onto the same shoulder again, shiiiite.

This time the Peg got trowelled on the left, damage only scratches on the fairing and the tip of the gearlever is missing.
The others help me with getting back upright again, damn it, the left foot copped something as well.
We're off to Tim's place for a great bbq, some drinks and plenty of talk. The shoulder is giving me hell, the ankle blows up during the night.

Chateau Tim:





Sorry guys, but that's the end for me, time to re-arrange the ferry bookings.
I leave for Devonport the next morning, Ingo and Garry are off to Bruny Island for more fun.
The ride north is a mongrel, the strong headwind, then a dust storm followed by the only hour of rain this far don't make it easy. We drilled a hole through the remains of the gearlever and fixed a longish bolt to it, at least changing gears is better than on the previous afternoon.
The bakery in Ross is still worth a Cappuccino and late breakfast, great stuff.
Hanging around Devonport is not much fun, at least the mountains are shrouded by low clouds and don't beckon with all those twisties.

I'll be back, there's more great stuff in them thar hills.
What an incredible run of weather, exceptional, never had anything like it, particularly the prolonged stint of sunshine in the west.
If you've never been over there, GO!  NOW!!
The one that sums it up:


Hmmm, someone told me about this road, that?(mumble, scratch head...where's that north-west corner map?)
 

shark_za

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2006, 07:53:35 am »
Get right at it why dont ya !

Thank dude, welcome to the forum.
 

Offline Zonkelnut

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2006, 08:02:00 am »
I look at the pictures and am amazed by the beauty! The Dominator is such a sweet bike. This, in my respectfully opinion, is taking the forums top marks on posting report trips.

I really enjoyed it. Thank you.
100001 110010 1101010
 

Offline Grondpad ™

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2006, 08:06:37 am »
Awsome picks Mate!!
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2006, 08:18:17 am »
Quote from: "Zonkelnut"
This, in my respectfully opinion, is taking the forums top marks on posting report trips.

I really enjoyed it. Thank you.



 :oops:  :oops:  
Thanks for the flowers  :D  :D
Glad you enjoyed it.
If anyone is "REAL COSY" with the admins here (G'day, mate :) )
and can put in a good word to post the band-width busting 390pic/ 5 weeks New Zealand Ride???  ...I'll post it.   :wink:
Otherwise those who can't help themselves might have to cruise across to www.AusTouring.com
Jeez, you're a nice lot !!  :)

Good to see some other familiar faces here, too...
 

Offline Welsh

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2006, 08:32:15 am »
Quote from: "glitch_oz"
Quote from: "Zonkelnut"
This, in my respectfully opinion, is taking the forums top marks on posting report trips.

I really enjoyed it. Thank you.



 :oops:  :oops:  
Thanks for the flowers  :D  :D
Glad you enjoyed it.
If anyone is "REAL COSY" with the admins here (G'day, mate :) )
and can put in a good word to post the band-width busting 390pic/ 5 weeks New Zealand Ride???  ...I'll post it.   :wink:
Otherwise those who can't help themselves might have to cruise across to www.AusTouring.com
Jeez, you're a nice lot !!  :)

Good to see some other familiar faces here, too...



Spoke too soon, every forum has its nasties!!!!!!

Welcome you sheep sh####er!!!

Welshie  :D  :twisted:  :twisted:

"I never comment on referees and I'm not going to break the habit of a lifetime for that prat." (Ewan McKenzie - Waratahs Coach)
Duirt me leat go raibh me breoite. Courtesy of Spike
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2006, 08:47:17 am »
Quote from: "African Welsh"

Spoke too soon, every forum has its nasties!!!!!!

Welcome you sheep sh####er!!!

Welshie  :D  :twisted:  :twisted:


Oi, the sh####er!!! are over there ----> (points towards NZ)
 :lol:
 

Offline Ama ride ride

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2006, 08:48:12 am »
Always lekker (go figure this word out) to read reports from DS riders in other countruies and continents and planets

Cool report :D
Gewoontlik n@@i ek reguit aan op fyndraai.

 

Offline wino

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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2006, 08:51:18 am »
beautiful country, erm, land, erm hearland, or what's the other name for it? thanks for sharing your spot of the woods, really lingered on the pics and learnt a few new words. any reports from the outbacks of aus?
 

Offline Leon H

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Re: Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2006, 09:01:00 am »
Quote from: "glitch_oz"
It's all Leon's (Leon H) fault, anyway  :lol:


Hey bro don't blame me! 8)

Good to see you on the forum man.  I'll give you the hot tip - it helps to have a grip on basic Afrikaans, just in case you cop some wild allegations like moffie, bliksem or sheep naaier (I think I spelt that wrong!) :lol:  :lol:

Why do I have the feeling I just open the floodgates for some obscure and obscene SA insults directed to the aussie boys..... :oops:  :oops:

Anyway dude thanks for the top report - looks pretty different to my end of the country.  You'll like this forum it's entertaining and informative and the ride reports are amazing, and might I say good job on the high standard of yours!

Catchya!

Leon
"I see a boundary, I eat a boundary...and wash it down with a cup of hot steaming rules!"
 

D7

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2006, 09:07:43 am »
amazing pics.
beautiful scenery.
nice report!!! :)
 

Offline Leon H

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2006, 09:27:08 am »
Quote from: "Zonkelnut"
This, in my respectfully opinion, is taking the forums top marks on posting report trips.



Between this and LS Namibia report I am beginning to think its "International High Quality Ride Report Week" or something
 8)
"I see a boundary, I eat a boundary...and wash it down with a cup of hot steaming rules!"
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2006, 09:35:39 am »
Quote from: "Ama ride ride"
Always lekker (go figure this word out) to read reports from DS riders in other countruies and continents and planets

Cool report :D


Oh, I know "lekker" :lol:
Grew up right next to where it comes from. Lekker food, lekker girls and ... lekker bikes    8)  8)
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #15 on: September 15, 2006, 09:37:26 am »
Quote from: "wino"
any reports from the outbacks of aus?


Can't help with that, sorry. One place (or many) I haven't been to yet.
 

glitch_oz

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Re: Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #16 on: September 15, 2006, 09:46:00 am »
Quote from: "Leon H"

Hey bro don't blame me! 8)

Don't weasel out of it now !!  :evil:  :lol:  :lol:

Quote
Good to see you on the forum man.  I'll give you the hot tip - it helps to have a grip on basic Afrikaans, just in case you cop some wild allegations like moffie, bliksem or sheep naaier (I think I spelt that wrong!) :lol:  :lol:

Why do I have the feeling I just open the floodgates for some obscure and obscene SA insults directed to the aussie boys..... :oops:  :oops:

Anyway dude thanks for the top report - looks pretty different to my end of the country.  You'll like this forum it's entertaining and informative and the ride reports are amazing, and might I say good job on the high standard of yours!



Grew up next to the Dutch border, Afrikaans is sort of familiar (after reading it aloud a few times ....the rest I'll learn  :D )
Insults? Paaahhh...with a skin that thick...yo, it looks great around here.
Lots of reading coming up (and gawking at the pics, for sure), those ride reports are...are...just something else.
Well, couldn't come up with a shoddy piece then, aye?  :lol:
 

Kev

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #17 on: September 15, 2006, 10:00:56 am »
Very cool! :thumbup: If more SA boys see what Tassie is like, they will emigrate there instead of Aus! But me thinks they like the city life... for me, give me the small country towns any day!  :P
 

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #18 on: September 15, 2006, 10:09:29 am »
Bloody good report
Really enjoyed it and the pics were great too
fantastic little island you got there mate
 

glitch_oz

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Tasmania [AUS] Thrills 'n Spills
« Reply #19 on: September 15, 2006, 01:38:40 pm »
Quote from: "LuckyStriker"
Bloody good report
Really enjoyed it and the pics were great too
fantastic little island you got there mate


It sure is a great place  :) ....
keep your ears pinned for more, there's a cracker in the wings  :lol: