Lesotho Tour - a picture & video story

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Michiel

Race Dog
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
1,519
Reaction score
0
Location
Bloemfontein, Vrystaat
Bike
Kawasaki KLR 650
Ever since my 1st small trip through Lesotho in Dec 2006 I was captivated by this Mountain Kingdom.
It’s hard to believe that a place like this exists within South Africa. It’s like something out of Lord Of The Rings,
mystical and ancient. Undeveloped.

So, after 2 years of looking forward, a year of planning and a week of preparation I was on my way to a 2nd and
all together more intimate visit. All journeys have to start somewhere and mine would already start in Cape Town.
I don’t believe in rushing to my destination and rather make the whole trip the destination.

Day 1
Cape Town to Baviaanskloof (636km)


Day1a.jpg


Day1b.jpg



It’s 2 am and I’m tired of rolling around in bed in anticipation of the trip, I might just as well get started.
By 3h30 the bike is packed, I’m geared up, geyser switched off and rubbish taken out. With the push of a
button my companion for the next 8 days barks into life. Riding down a surprisingly busy Buitengracht Street
and on to a dark N1 my thumper seems eager to eat some road.

I make my 1st stop on the Du Toits Kloof Pass to admire and take a picture of the lights of Paarl. Foolishly I
half handily balance my camera on top of my backpack on top of a roadside concrete table and while I pose
it falls to the ground with a thud. Luckily it’s still in tact and I got the picture.

001.jpg



A quick stop by the roadside garage in Worcester for some fuel and I’m off again. Now I can go almost 400km
before I run out!

At Touws River I stop to rest and get something to eat. I’m dressed warm because experience taught me it get’s
very cold on the other side of the mountain coming from Cape Town. Riding so early in the morning normally I’m
frozen by the time I hit Touws River. For breakfast two meat pies from the 24 hour kiosk will have to do.

002.jpg



Just outside of Touws River the sight of a nasty accident, a minibus taxi lost control and rolled off the road sending
it’s 20 odd passengers flying into the bushes, reminds me how fragile our bodies really are. I don’t want to stop,
I don’t think anyone survived. I will be extra careful on the trip.

About 20 km down the N1 from Touws River I hook a right and after crossing the Trans Karoo train tracks I’m on my
1st gravel of the trip.

003.jpg



The road winds through farmland and beautiful rocky outcrops. A stunning little road, smooth surface. Here and there
I cross cattle grids and small dry riverbeds, no bridges, and even stops once to open a gate. This road basically runs
parallel with the N1 just 10 or so km’s South. I can’t believe how much more rewarding the ride and scenery is.

004.jpg


005.jpg



When stopping you are rewarded with a rich variety of plant life and interesting rocks and gravel. The silence can be heard.

006.jpg


007.jpg


008.jpg


009.jpg


010.jpg



Just after passing through the Rooinek Pass I decide to take a little detour to see a place called Rouxpos.
Stumbling upon a small hidden settlement I stop to ask accommodation information for a future stay-over.
A gentleman called Mziwoxolo Mfekrto bought some land there and built a couple of self catering wooden
houses on the slope of the scenic mountain that dominates his land.

I was a bit short on time and as I indicated I had to get going his wife waved me back. Mr Mziwoxolo explained
it is African custom to give a guest a gift upon his departure and with that Mrs Mfekrto gave me a bottle of their
best wine. Goodness, my surprise was only outlived by my gratitude. Nice to meet such pleasant people.


011.jpg


012.jpg



The Seweweekspoort Pass delivered all it promised and before long I was in Calitzdorp. It’s midday and while
refuelling I ask the petrol attendant where the best restaurant in town is. As he points up the street he explains
I must go where the orange bikes are parked. KTM’s mark the spot I had lunch.

The original plan was to meet up with a friend living in George. He couldn’t join me for the whole trip but I still
invited him to ride with through to Knysna and camp for the night in the Prince Alfred Pass, ride the next day to
Uniondale where our paths would part again.

After numerous failed attempts to make contact over the last week leaving unanswered messages I realized we
won’t be meeting up… Time to re-think my route. I’ve been in the Prince Alfred Pass before, even camped there
once on my way to The Hell. I have not been in the Baviaanskloof before though.

As I wait for my lunch to come I undress layers of warm sweaty clothes because by now it’s really bloody hellish hot!
Studying the map I plot a new route. The only problem is that I have no idea where I would get accommodation for
the night if I head towards the Baviaanskloof.

After lunch I head for the information centre and there a most friendly kind lady called Erina sorts me out with
information to a variety of accommodation near and in Baviaanskloof for the night. As a sign of my gratitude I
leave the bottle of wine.

Braving the midday heat I make for Oudtshoorn and once there nearly bring a stop to my precious trip by running
a red light. I have an old habit of looking around and daydreaming on the bike and not always paying attention to
where I’m going. I realise what’s happening only when I see cars heading towards me from the side and come to
a screeching halt! Very embarrassing. Luckily I live to screech another day.

South of Oudtshoorn I cross country on a small gravel road that rises and dips as it curves along a river passing
places like Daskop and Buffelsdrif. Once again the heat get the better of me and I make a stop under some trees
nearby a farmhouse.

013.jpg


While resting some kids rock up on their bicycles. They probably saw me stop and came to
have a closer look.

014.jpg


I break the silence and soon after they bubble with questions about me and the bike. Pleasant bunch. I can’t
help to wonder how they pass their time in this desolate place but they assure me that the river and rocky
outcrops make for excellent playgrounds. They remind me of myself and my friends on the farm during the
good old days.

I pass Uniondale without stopping for petrol. Just a couple of km’s down the N9 another small dirt road will
take me to the Baviaanskloof. This road has a good surface and at speed playfully offers up a couple of long
gentle bumps to lift the bike off the surface. I am in good spirit but have to stop again because the sun is
cooking me alive. Where the road cross a dry riverbed I find shelter under some bushes. This time there is
not a soul around and I take off nearly all my clothes…

Maintenance to the final drive chain keeps me busy till I have to get going again. The Baviaanskloof officially
starts with the Nuwekloof Pass and while navigating what must be the last 15km’s of the day stomach cramps
sets in. There is only one solution. Hastily I search for a sheltered inlet into the gorge side, stop, out comes the
toilet paper I always carry and within minutes Vesuvius is peaceful once more.

Without further incident I find my accommodation for the night. The Makadaat Grotte is my choice.
Unfortunately the actual Cave units (rooms built into caves) are unavailable but the Aartappelkamer
(Potato Room, used to store potatoes years ago) on the farmyard looks just as promising.
After unloading my trusty steed I potter around the farm and eventually retire to my Aartappelkamer for the night.

For an extra R50 the farmers wife struck me a dinner deal. Her family made an early Christmas gathering
this year and once they sit down for their meal she will dish for me a plate of what is on offer. I’m so tired that
by the time the food arrive I’m fast asleep. A full spread of cold meat, salads and pudding it was worth waiting for though.
Dankie Tannie.

015.jpg



Here is the video corresponding to Day 1




 
Top