The Great Trek - 56k beware

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TrailBlazer

Race Dog
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
2,920
Reaction score
768
Location
Port Elizabeth
Bike
Honda XL650V Transalp
Joining the Dogs

I joined the Dogs well before I got a bike; in fact, I was rideless for almost 6 months before I eventually managed to find a bike that suited my pocket.

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Once this had been done, I was ready to go. Trailrider was glad that he was no longer the only 200cc driver around… he now had a “partner-in-crime” so to speak.

Having read a lot of Trailrider's ride-reports, and communicating with the man himself via email, I eventually decided to start planning a trip, with TR's help and intimate knowledge of his back yard, down to The Hel and Baviaanskloof. This trip was scheduled for early in 2009, but the unfortunate loss of my bike through theft put paid to this idea.

I saved hard, and eventually managed to scrape enough of the crisp-and-folding stuff together to buy a Transalp in very good condition, and once again the trip was a reality.

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Many emails later the planning stage was completed, and we had a “go” situation.

Unsure of what distance is considered "comfortable" I worked on 500km per day. Fortunately I didn't push that limit up any more, as this is just about the outer edge of comfort for me.

Routing

Day 1 Benoni to Kimberley
Day 2 Kimberley to Graaff Reinet
Day 3 Graaff Reinet to Plettenberg Bay, via Prince Alfred's Pass
Day 4 Day trip to old Bloukrans Pass, Knysna and Phantom Pass
Day 5 Plettenberg Bay to Heidelberg
Day 6 Heidelberg via Malgas / Breede River Pont to George
Day 7 George to The Hel, via Montagu Pass, Meiringspoort & Prince Albert
Day 8 The Hel to Attakwaskloof
Day 9 Attakwaskloof to George
Day 10 George to Baviaanskloof, via Kom se pad, 7 Passes road and Prince Alfred's Pass
Day 11 Complete Baviaanskloof to Port Elizabeth
Day 12 Port Elizabeth to East London via Bathurst and Port Alfred
Day 13 to 16 Stay in East London
Day 17 East London for Aliwal North
Day 18 Aliwal North to Benoni

I was extremely fortunate to have picked up a set of Touratech Zega panniers, as well as a touring screen for the TA, and a set of Touratech crash-bars just to set off the looks a bit, and give me the peace of mind that the bike shouldn't suffer too much in the unhappy event of an "off". The touring screen is a definite must, as the original screen had my chest and neck right in the "buffet zone". Now the wind goes over my head, and I can feel a little turbulence at high speed, just on the back of my helmet.

Despite the panniers however, I think I still look like a travelling brothel, and after this trip there will have to be a serious rethink on what gear stays at home, and what goes on the next ride.

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Day 1 - Sat 5 Sep 09 – Benoni to Kimberley

I left home at about 0815, filled up the bike and from there it was plain sailing to Potchefstroom, where the wind started to pick up, becoming hot and windy, and uncomfortable all the way to Kimberley.

My plan was to sleep at the caravan park, close to the Big Hole, where I'd camped many years before, but was disappointed to find that it had closed due to some or other commercial expansion in the area. I then headed for the second caravan park but after the first glance I turned tail and lit out of there in a hurry. The place seemed to be filled with a bunch of el-cheapo permanents who had the look about them of being able to steal the milk from one's coffee, without you even realising that it was gone. I ended up staying over at the Sundowner B&B, for R345-00 per night, including breakfast (and this was without the benefit of KY). Expensive, Yes!, but the peace of mind, knowing that my kit would still be there on Sunday morning is what made me fork out that amount. It appears that there was no cheaper accommodation to be had that weekend, as the Gariep Fees was running, and accommodation was at a premium.

Day 2 - Sun 6 Sep 09 - Kimberley to Graaff Reinet

About 33 km after leaving Kimberley, I crossed the Riet River. There is a rail bridge that that is still guarded by an old stone blockhouse.

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The journey was uneventful, except for the wind, and more wind, and even more of the damned stuff.  If I never experience wind in my life again, it will be too soon

I skipped the Owl Route via Bethesda, due to the wind; I wasn't keen to try my horizontal-riding skills on gravel just yet. I'm certain that the tyres have worn a new "flat surface" on the side-walls, as it was damned near impossible to hold the bike upright.

On arrival in Graaff Reinet, I pulled up at the first likely-looking B&B, only to be quoted R550-00 per night. Judging by the look on the proprietor's face, he realised that his price might be a bit high when he saw my jaw hit the floor, and asked what I had in mind. I quoted a more realistic R200-00 for a bed for the night, and he accepted.  Ended up having a beer with him, in his kitchen, and then he left for the night. I discovered that the place is actually closed, but that he took pity on me, and gave me a neat little room for R200-00.

Fortunately tomorrow's leg is short (only about 350 km to Plett).

Day 3 – Mon 7 Sep 09 Graaff Reinet to Plettenberg Bay

Left Graaff Reinet on a beautiful sunny morning, albeit a little cold. Went to the Valley of Desolation, and on the way there noticed that the speedo had stopped working. I suspect the drive unit is stripped, but will check when I get to better facilities.

The ride to Uniondale was uneventful, where I branched off towards Avontuur and the Prince Alfred's Pass.

There has been a lot of flood damage to the road between Uniondale and Avontuur, which was washed away. Great riding through the Prince Alfred’s Pass, with a very good road surface. At times I was doing 70 - 80 km/h on hard-packed gravel surfaces.

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A call at "Angie's G-Spot" was mandatory, and I enjoyed a chat with Herold, and a cold one, before continuing my journey

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Tired and saddle-sore, I arrived in Plett at about 1530, and set up camp at Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park, then went and surprised BoJangles at the office.

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Day 4 – Tue 8 Sep 09 – Day Trip in Plettenberg Bay area

After a leisurely breakfast, I broke camp, packed up the bike, and left for Bloukrans Pass. On arriving at the turn-off, I was confronted by a "Road Closed" sign, so did what many other Dogs would do, and ignored it. There are a number of places where the road has washed away, and I hugged the cliff-face to prevent myself from becoming yet another accident statistic. One can see the road hasn't been used by regular traffic for some time; in many of the damper places there are large patches of green algae on the surface... VERY slippery, and waiting to catch the unsuspecting traveller and fling him into the abyss.

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In the afternoon I went to Knysna for the obligatory visit to the heads,

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and then carried on through the town to ride Phantom Pass.

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I was lucky on the return journey; I got out of Knysna one jump ahead of the rain which is now pouring down here in Plett.

Fortunately I took BoJ up on her offer to stay at a friend's backpacker accommodation, so I'll be sleeping warm and dry tonight; and Bo is cooking me a meal...

Turns out that Bo's friend (Graham) did all the cooking, or should I say braaing. A great time was had by all, and unfortunately nobody thought of a camera until it was too late, and we'd packed up and made ready for bed.

And the rain is STILL coming down by the bucket load!!!

Day 5 - Wed 9 Sep 09 – Plettenberg Bay to Heidelberg

After a great evening with BoJangles and Graham, and enough rain (and the help of a few beers) to float a battleship, I eventually went to place my tired head on a pillow, and didn't know anything more until this morning at about 6-30. Despite Graham telling me that one of the guests had lost their key, and that he (Graham) had had to drill and hammer the lock out of the door, and his tendering of apologies for all the noise... wellllll, I was none the wiser.

Woke up to still more rain, and I was very reluctant to set out in the wet. However, as time dragged on I could see that I wasn't going to get much road behind me, and eventually started loading the bike in the rain. After dragging my feet for the umpteenth time, and looking heavenwards in the hope that I may spot a break in the weather, I bade farewell to Graham and the Amakaya Backpacker's Lodge, and hit the road at about 9-45.  I must say that I was initially very wary of the Kenda K270's that the bike is wearing, but they proved themselves to be reasonably stable in the wet, with no tendency to give me a moment's concern. Maybe this wet-road stuff isn't too bad after all...

Fortune once again smiled upon me, and after Knysna the weather started breaking. For most of the way to Mossel bay I had dry roads, with a spattering of rain here and there.

Once in Mossel Bay I met up with Berm_Rooster, where I picked his brain about his recent trip to Baviaanskloof, and got all the hot gen on what to, and what not to, do. A cup of coffee helped me on my way again, and shortly after leaving I ran into a fairly heavy shower of rain which lasted about 15 minutes.

By the time I reached Riversdale I had had enough of cold, wet feet, and decided to call in at Heidelberg to stay the night. I'm in a very neat little B&B called "Aan de Kanal".

Supper tonight was one of the best I've had in a long time... On the menu

Cheddarmelt steak with sweet-potato & veggies or chips.

I ended up with a 300g steak (I'm convinced the scale was lying, in my favour); the damned thing was huge, plus veggies, plus chips, all for R75-00. It was almost nag for me while I was trying to wrap myself around the steak.

According to Mr Garmin, the pont is only 34km away. Malgas was named for a Hottentot chief, whose kraal was situated near the site. The name of the village was changed from Malagas to Malgas because in the olden days, post for the village ended up in Malaga Spain!
Today Malgas is known best as the town with the last surviving hand-driven river pont in operation in the country. The pont, or pontoon, is a link with a bygone era in which Dutch settlers used to build floats that they took with them, if they knew there was a river to cross, on their journey.
 
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