The Great Trek - 56k beware

[TrailBlazer]

Joining the Dogs

I joined the Dogs well before I got a bike; in fact, I was rideless for almost 6 months before I eventually managed to find a bike that suited my pocket.



Once this had been done, I was ready to go. Trailrider was glad that he was no longer the only 200cc driver around… he now had a “partner-in-crime” so to speak.

Having read a lot of Trailrider's ride-reports, and communicating with the man himself via email, I eventually decided to start planning a trip, with TR's help and intimate knowledge of his back yard, down to The Hel and Baviaanskloof. This trip was scheduled for early in 2009, but the unfortunate loss of my bike through theft put paid to this idea.

I saved hard, and eventually managed to scrape enough of the crisp-and-folding stuff together to buy a Transalp in very good condition, and once again the trip was a reality.



Many emails later the planning stage was completed, and we had a “go” situation.

Unsure of what distance is considered "comfortable" I worked on 500km per day. Fortunately I didn't push that limit up any more, as this is just about the outer edge of comfort for me.

Routing

Day 1 Benoni to Kimberley
Day 2 Kimberley to Graaff Reinet
Day 3 Graaff Reinet to Plettenberg Bay, via Prince Alfred's Pass
Day 4 Day trip to old Bloukrans Pass, Knysna and Phantom Pass
Day 5 Plettenberg Bay to Heidelberg
Day 6 Heidelberg via Malgas / Breede River Pont to George
Day 7 George to The Hel, via Montagu Pass, Meiringspoort & Prince Albert
Day 8 The Hel to Attakwaskloof
Day 9 Attakwaskloof to George
Day 10 George to Baviaanskloof, via Kom se pad, 7 Passes road and Prince Alfred's Pass
Day 11 Complete Baviaanskloof to Port Elizabeth
Day 12 Port Elizabeth to East London via Bathurst and Port Alfred
Day 13 to 16 Stay in East London
Day 17 East London for Aliwal North
Day 18 Aliwal North to Benoni

I was extremely fortunate to have picked up a set of Touratech Zega panniers, as well as a touring screen for the TA, and a set of Touratech crash-bars just to set off the looks a bit, and give me the peace of mind that the bike shouldn't suffer too much in the unhappy event of an "off". The touring screen is a definite must, as the original screen had my chest and neck right in the "buffet zone". Now the wind goes over my head, and I can feel a little turbulence at high speed, just on the back of my helmet.

Despite the panniers however, I think I still look like a travelling brothel, and after this trip there will have to be a serious rethink on what gear stays at home, and what goes on the next ride.



Day 1 - Sat 5 Sep 09 – Benoni to Kimberley

I left home at about 0815, filled up the bike and from there it was plain sailing to Potchefstroom, where the wind started to pick up, becoming hot and windy, and uncomfortable all the way to Kimberley.

My plan was to sleep at the caravan park, close to the Big Hole, where I'd camped many years before, but was disappointed to find that it had closed due to some or other commercial expansion in the area. I then headed for the second caravan park but after the first glance I turned tail and lit out of there in a hurry. The place seemed to be filled with a bunch of el-cheapo permanents who had the look about them of being able to steal the milk from one's coffee, without you even realising that it was gone. I ended up staying over at the Sundowner B&B, for R345-00 per night, including breakfast (and this was without the benefit of KY). Expensive, Yes!, but the peace of mind, knowing that my kit would still be there on Sunday morning is what made me fork out that amount. It appears that there was no cheaper accommodation to be had that weekend, as the Gariep Fees was running, and accommodation was at a premium.

Day 2 - Sun 6 Sep 09 - Kimberley to Graaff Reinet

About 33 km after leaving Kimberley, I crossed the Riet River. There is a rail bridge that that is still guarded by an old stone blockhouse.



The journey was uneventful, except for the wind, and more wind, and even more of the damned stuff.  If I never experience wind in my life again, it will be too soon

I skipped the Owl Route via Bethesda, due to the wind; I wasn't keen to try my horizontal-riding skills on gravel just yet. I'm certain that the tyres have worn a new "flat surface" on the side-walls, as it was damned near impossible to hold the bike upright.

On arrival in Graaff Reinet, I pulled up at the first likely-looking B&B, only to be quoted R550-00 per night. Judging by the look on the proprietor's face, he realised that his price might be a bit high when he saw my jaw hit the floor, and asked what I had in mind. I quoted a more realistic R200-00 for a bed for the night, and he accepted.  Ended up having a beer with him, in his kitchen, and then he left for the night. I discovered that the place is actually closed, but that he took pity on me, and gave me a neat little room for R200-00.

Fortunately tomorrow's leg is short (only about 350 km to Plett).

Day 3 – Mon 7 Sep 09 Graaff Reinet to Plettenberg Bay

Left Graaff Reinet on a beautiful sunny morning, albeit a little cold. Went to the Valley of Desolation, and on the way there noticed that the speedo had stopped working. I suspect the drive unit is stripped, but will check when I get to better facilities.

The ride to Uniondale was uneventful, where I branched off towards Avontuur and the Prince Alfred's Pass.

There has been a lot of flood damage to the road between Uniondale and Avontuur, which was washed away. Great riding through the Prince Alfred’s Pass, with a very good road surface. At times I was doing 70 - 80 km/h on hard-packed gravel surfaces.



A call at "Angie's G-Spot" was mandatory, and I enjoyed a chat with Herold, and a cold one, before continuing my journey





Tired and saddle-sore, I arrived in Plett at about 1530, and set up camp at Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park, then went and surprised BoJangles at the office.



Day 4 – Tue 8 Sep 09 – Day Trip in Plettenberg Bay area

After a leisurely breakfast, I broke camp, packed up the bike, and left for Bloukrans Pass. On arriving at the turn-off, I was confronted by a "Road Closed" sign, so did what many other Dogs would do, and ignored it. There are a number of places where the road has washed away, and I hugged the cliff-face to prevent myself from becoming yet another accident statistic. One can see the road hasn't been used by regular traffic for some time; in many of the damper places there are large patches of green algae on the surface... VERY slippery, and waiting to catch the unsuspecting traveller and fling him into the abyss.



In the afternoon I went to Knysna for the obligatory visit to the heads,



and then carried on through the town to ride Phantom Pass.



I was lucky on the return journey; I got out of Knysna one jump ahead of the rain which is now pouring down here in Plett.

Fortunately I took BoJ up on her offer to stay at a friend's backpacker accommodation, so I'll be sleeping warm and dry tonight; and Bo is cooking me a meal...

Turns out that Bo's friend (Graham) did all the cooking, or should I say braaing. A great time was had by all, and unfortunately nobody thought of a camera until it was too late, and we'd packed up and made ready for bed.

And the rain is STILL coming down by the bucket load!!!

Day 5 - Wed 9 Sep 09 – Plettenberg Bay to Heidelberg

After a great evening with BoJangles and Graham, and enough rain (and the help of a few beers) to float a battleship, I eventually went to place my tired head on a pillow, and didn't know anything more until this morning at about 6-30. Despite Graham telling me that one of the guests had lost their key, and that he (Graham) had had to drill and hammer the lock out of the door, and his tendering of apologies for all the noise... wellllll, I was none the wiser.

Woke up to still more rain, and I was very reluctant to set out in the wet. However, as time dragged on I could see that I wasn't going to get much road behind me, and eventually started loading the bike in the rain. After dragging my feet for the umpteenth time, and looking heavenwards in the hope that I may spot a break in the weather, I bade farewell to Graham and the Amakaya Backpacker's Lodge, and hit the road at about 9-45.  I must say that I was initially very wary of the Kenda K270's that the bike is wearing, but they proved themselves to be reasonably stable in the wet, with no tendency to give me a moment's concern. Maybe this wet-road stuff isn't too bad after all...

Fortune once again smiled upon me, and after Knysna the weather started breaking. For most of the way to Mossel bay I had dry roads, with a spattering of rain here and there.

Once in Mossel Bay I met up with Berm_Rooster, where I picked his brain about his recent trip to Baviaanskloof, and got all the hot gen on what to, and what not to, do. A cup of coffee helped me on my way again, and shortly after leaving I ran into a fairly heavy shower of rain which lasted about 15 minutes.

By the time I reached Riversdale I had had enough of cold, wet feet, and decided to call in at Heidelberg to stay the night. I'm in a very neat little B&B called "Aan de Kanal".

Supper tonight was one of the best I've had in a long time... On the menu

Cheddarmelt steak with sweet-potato & veggies or chips.

I ended up with a 300g steak (I'm convinced the scale was lying, in my favour); the damned thing was huge, plus veggies, plus chips, all for R75-00. It was almost nag for me while I was trying to wrap myself around the steak.

According to Mr Garmin, the pont is only 34km away. Malgas was named for a Hottentot chief, whose kraal was situated near the site. The name of the village was changed from Malagas to Malgas because in the olden days, post for the village ended up in Malaga Spain!
Today Malgas is known best as the town with the last surviving hand-driven river pont in operation in the country. The pont, or pontoon, is a link with a bygone era in which Dutch settlers used to build floats that they took with them, if they knew there was a river to cross, on their journey.

[TrailBlazer]

Day 6 – Thu 10 Sep 09 - Heidelberg via Malgas to George

Departed Heidelberg on a somewhat chilly morning, and headed for Malgas. The weather had cleared up, and I had no rain along the way. A very pleasant ride on good gravel roads, and eventually I spied the river in front of me. A stop was required to take the necessary pictures, and then it was onwards to load the bike on the pont.









Somehow I don’t think the Transalp is going to exceed the maximum weight.  


There was no sensation of movement while crossing the river, until one looked at the fixed cable passing between the rollers; only then did I realise we were moving at a fair pace for something that was being "walked" across the river.

And the cost... a whole R12-00. This put the Transalp in the same price category as a bloody tractor!



Heading back towards George, I stopped at Riversdale for fuel, and was sitting quite happily on the bike while the gas was being pumped, when a stranger pulled up in a truck next to me, hopped out and put his business card in my hand, with the suggestion that I "call him if I needed anything for the bike". Somewhat surprised, I must have looked the complete idiot, but agreed anyway, and put his card in my tankbag. At that moment he asked "Hey, aren't you Trailblazer from the forum?", and then the penny dropped. I had had the pleasure of meeting ChrisL, who I didn't know from a bar of soap, but who knew me almost straight off. It must have been the fact that I looked like a travelling circus.

Goodbye's were said, and we continued on our respective journeys. I arrived at Trailrider's house to find him standing in the driveway beaming from ear to ear, and waiting to welcome me to his home, where he and his delightful wife proceeded to make me feel extremely welcome.



A good few hours later, and an equal number of beers downed, and it was time for bed. Damn!! This coastal air is getting to me; I feel more tired as each day goes by.

The forecast for tomorrow - showers and cold weather!!! I don't like this at all!


Day 7 - Fri 11 Sep – George to The Hel, via Montagu, Paardepoort, Meirngspoort, Prince Albert

I woke up in the early hours of this morning with the rain pelting down on the roof. My first thought was that we'd be having a wet and muddy ride, but by 6-00 the rain had stopped, and now at 7-30 there is a bit of blue sky trying it's level best to break through the clouds. Here's hoping that the day will turn out dry, and maybe a little bit sunny as well. The plan is to leave at about 8-45 and fill up at the garage round the corner, where we'll be meeting Dr Dirt.



Got to the garage at about 8-50, filled up and waited for Dr Dirt (Danie ). He arrived and filled up, and we set out just after 9-00 for Montagu Pass. Some great scenery along the way, and I enjoyed it immensely.



With a name like Grogdraai, there was no other option but to comply with the instruction, and have a sip of “Grog”.  This picture has been shamelessly stolen from Trailrider’s album.

From there we went through Paardepoort towards Dysselsdorp and Kammanassie where Grysalp (Andre) joined us for the ride.



On towards Meiringspoort







and eventually ending up in Prince Albert for lunch, where we met up with Eikeboom (Charl), who was to join us for the ride into Hel and Attakwaskloof.

Some awesome riding up Swartberg Pass









towards the turnoff to The Hel where Grysalp left to go back home, and we (TB / TR / Dr Dirt and Eikeboom) descended into hell on the seventh day of my trip. Man oh man... what a ride. The road was fairly good, with the exception of the last portion of the pass descending the plateau. We stayed over in one of the historic little houses right at the end of the kloof. No electricity, gas to cook and heat water, and that's it. The stars were brighter than I've ever seen them, and the night is as black as the ace of spades. It's impossible to see one's hand in front of your own eyes. Peace, perfect peace!


















At the end of a long day's riding, a fire, some meat, a few dinks and friendship... what more could a man ask for?

Day 8 - Sat 12 Sep – The Hel to Attakwaskloof

Woke up at about 7-00, hopped out of bed and got ready to face the day. A quick breakfast, a cup of strong coffee to cure the headache, and we were ready to go. The route today was out of the Hel, complete the Swartbergpass, cross Rooiberg and head for Attakwaskloof. This was to be another full day of riding.

On arriving at Calitzdorp we met up with Dusty (Renee) and Pad (Andre), who were to join us for the night. We eventually arrived at Bonnydale at about 17-00, where a hot shower was waiting. Another braai along with a few drinks, good conversation and friendship, and a good few wagon-loads of kark were spoken that night. Pad believes in doing things right, and the makings for a Bloody Mary were soon evident. In addition, there were salamis, cheese wedges and tinned sausages (Owambo’s, for those who did a bit of army time) on the table.

Day 9 - Sun 13 Sep 09 – Bonnydale to George

Soon after leaving Bonnydale and heading towards home, Dr Dirt got a puncture in the front wheel, and this took about an hour to repair. After the KTM was put up on its centre-stand, it had a tendency to drop the front wheel, so we built a "Leaning Tower of Bonnydale" on the luggage rack. Pad was of the opinion that we needed every bit of weight on the back of the bike, hence the beer to help



After successfully patching the tube, we got the tyre back on the rim and started to pump it up. The moment we pulled the compressor off, the tyre deflated, and Danie thought he'd pinched the tube while replacing it. Then he discovered that he'd never replaced the valve. Another round of laughs and pictures, and we had the wheel in and the bike going soon after.

Amidst all his excitement and hard work, Dusty decided that she would make a study of the underside of the Transalp, and proceeded to do so from the shady side. I didn’t see her lying there and almost stood on her when I went to fetch something from the bike.



Lunch was at Eight Bells, and we headed off home, towards a welcome shower, a good meal cooked by Mrs TR, and a few ice-cold beers.

I can definitely recommend a stopover at the Trailriders.



Mrs TR has put together a fully furnished room (the first of four that she has planned), for overnight guests. The room is most comfortable, and fully self-contained, and the price per room per night is very reasonable. Also on the cards is a slightly cheaper "Backpackers Option", which will be a type of dormitory room, with 4 to 6 bunk beds. So, for any Dogs who find themselves in need of accommodation for a night or 6, send TR a PM, and Mrs TR will get back to you.

Day 10 - Mon 14 Sep – Gouna, Seven Passes, Prince Alfred’s Pass to Willowmore and Baviaanskloof

We left George at around 08-30 on a cloudy and overcast day. TR rode with me through the Seven Passes, and when we got to the Gouna turn-off, he left to head back home.





Deep in the forest I fully expected to see a few hobbits jump out of the undergrowth, but this was not to be. I picked up a bit of rain along Kom-se-pad, and had a spattering of rain all the way up Prince Alfred's Pass.  Eventually I outran it, and had a dry trip from Avontuur to Willowmore, where I filled up and headed out for Vondeling. On the way back I once again caught up with the rain, and got a bit damp going in to Willowmore. Filled up there again, and set out for Baviaanskloof, where I stayed the night at Uitspan Guest farm.

I have covered in excess of 3000km to date, and the trip is far from over.

Day 11 – 15 Sep 09 - Baviaanskloof to Port Elizabeth

Left Uitspan Farm @ 07-45 and headed East into the rising sun. Once again the scenery was beyond mere mortal man's ability to describe. After a very pleasant ride on mostly good roads, I arrived at Smitskraal. It was time to start paddling. Fortunately I had met a guy in a bakkie who told me that there was nothing to worry about as far as the crossing goes, and on arrival the water was clear enough to see the bottom. This was the start of "wet-feet", and I crossed the almost knee-deep water without mishap. From there it was on to Holgat Pass, the thought of which intimidated me. Sure, it was rather hard going, but not beyond my capabilities, and certainly not beyond those of the Transalp. In fact, I think going down Combrink's Pass was worse that climbing Holgat.



So much has already been written and posted on Baviaans that I will not go into too much detail here. Suffice to say that having done it solo was a rather large notch on the butt of my gun. Would I do it again?  Yes!!! Would I do it solo again?  NO!!! I think the peace-of-mind that one has from riding with a buddy makes for a much more interesting ride, with a lot less stress.

On arrival in PE I contacted Drazil, with whom I had "kuiered" previously, and he rounded up additional dogs Rone, Fugly (Mike), and Slowpoke (Jacques), to come and help me cut the dust from my throat. Later, after Slowpoke, Rone and Fugly had left, Drazil and I continued with the dust-clearing, and it was decided that Drazil would take Wednesday morning off from work to ride out to Drazilville with me.

Day 12 - Wed 16 Sep – Port Elizabeth to East London via Drazilville, Grahamstown, Bathurst and Port Alfred

With the journey having passed the halfway mark, and the fact that I was now on my way to see my family, last seen in Feb 2008, I woke at 3-30 and couldn't get back to sleep. Eventually I got up, showered, packed the bike and left for Drazil's house at 6-00. Shortly before 7-00 we left and headed out towards Nanaga. Unfortunately the coffee shop was still closed, so we pushed on for Addo Elephant Park, where the coffee was hot and strong.





Sadly we saw no elephants and after a while decided to push on for Drazilville. Over Olifantskop Pass and onwards toward the interior.

The sun was well up by the time we reached the deserted village, and it was with amazement that I looked around at what once must have been a bustling small community. One wonders what happened to everyone, and where they went. Why was the place left to go to ruin like it has?





Anybody here got any idea what car this used to be many years back?







After a little more exploring, we couldn't delay departure much longer. Drazil had to return to the office (what a nasty thought), and I had to make my way to ELS.

Thanks a lot Drazil for taking a day (morning) off work to escort me to Drazilville and Addo. I appreciated it.

Great was the surprise when I knocked on my mother's door, and asked if there was coffee available for a thirsty traveller. Disbelief, shock and surprise all combined to make a joyful reunion; the first time I had seen her in 18 months. She had no idea that I was coming to visit.

By the time I arrived in East London I had covered 3900km in 12 days, and could feel it. I rested my travel-weary body and soul here for four day and five nights, and set out again early on Monday morning, heading for King Williams Town (Rooikrantz and Maden Dams, where I fished as a 12 year-old with my late grandfather), Hogsback (where I played in the snow as a youngster), Katberg (which I had last seen as a kid of 10), and finally on to Benoni.

My apologies to the East London Dogs for not contacting you and having a few drinks, but family commitments took priority here.

My original plan was to have visited Barkly East and surrounding areas as well, but the realisation that my holiday was almost over, combined with the fact that I was becoming more tired of the incessant wind that I was battling on most days, made me have a quick change of mind, and I pushed on to Aliwal North where I spent the night. I also realised that I can’t do everything on one trip, and that was the second reason to give it a miss this time around. Now I have a good excuse to ride again sometime soon

Up early on Tuesday morning, I left Aliwal at 7-00, and pushed on home ( a distance of 660km). This is by far the longest stretch I have done in one day, and my butt told me so as well.

To those Dogs I met, and rode with (Trailrider, Dr Dirt, Grysalp, Eikeboom, Pad, Dusty, Fugly, Drazil, Rone, Slowpoke, Berm_Rooster and ChrisL), it was great meeting you, riding with you, sharing a few kark stories around the fires, and over a few beers


Trip statistics

Total distance        5157km
Total fuel                337.0 litres
Fuel cost                R2679.50
Accommodation     R1440-00
Average fuel consumption   15.3 km/l
Best fuel consumption 17.0 km/l
Worst fuel consumption 13.37 km/l

Final summary


When describing to my brother-in-law just where I’d been, and what I’d seen over the past 10 days, he summed it up very appropriately, with the words “What an adventure!”  And yes!, I have to agree whole-heartedly with him. This was an adventure like no other.

And last, but certainly not least, my heartfelt thanks to Trailrider for putting together a very memorable portion of this trip for me. Without your insight, advice and knowledge of the area this trip would not have been half as enjoyable as it was.

Dankie my maat!!

[ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS]

Nice pics TB. Was good to meet.

[Stephan]

Great trip!  

[eikeboom]

Go well TBlazer, it was nice sharing 2 days with you and the others - a trip to remember! 

[TrailBlazer]

Thanks guys... it was a trip that I';ll remember for a long time to come

Go well TBlazer, it was nice sharing 2 days with you and the others - a trip to remember! 

Was equally great to have shared a ride and your company as well C. Safe riding, en wie weet... miskien ry ons weer saam

[Sir Rat]

Thanks for sharing TrailBlazer. Well written report. Yea that old Trailrider is a good old chap! 

[Tonteldoos]

Awesome trip 
Thanx for sharing
Do you have the gps route?

[TrailBlazer]

Do you have the gps route?

Unfortunately no GPS route. My Nuvi200 doesn't do the tracking thingy, and one that does is just a bit out of reach of my pocket at the moment.

[Trailrider]

Great report!

Was nice to have you TB

[fat b]

Nice RR TB ! Well done !

[roxenz]

Absolutely bloody marvelous pics, TB!  Thanks for reminding in what a beautiful country we live!  Looking forward...

[XT JOE]

Huge trip, well done and thanks for a exellent report/pics

[DrDirt]

Glad to hear you had a safe trip home Tblazer.Great RR

[BoJangels]

Great RR, TB and nice photies 

[CHorse]

Great trip and report TB, that is what it is all about.

Respect on the long solo adventure, takes guts. 

[LouisXander]

Lekker man!!! Dis darem pragtige wereld daai!!

[nemodakar]

Dont rip the lifan pal Sweetness did Baviaans as a first trip after about 300ks on hers. Shes still hooked on bikes. Glad you did that trip.

[Oom Pad]

Great RR TB. Next time I would like to hear more plane stories.

[ED]

Lekker RR en nice photie's