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Offline michnus

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BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« on: October 01, 2009, 06:34:09 pm »
 :deal:

Please add information for prospective new owners of second hand bikes, that you feel they ought to know and things they need to look out for, before spending the money.

please keep the threads clean of spam.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2009, 09:40:40 am by michnus »
 

Offline michnus

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2009, 09:44:35 am »
* Ask if the Doo was replaced.

*Check for wheel bearings, they are not sealed bearing and wear out quite quick. not too expensive to replace

* Rear shock adjustment ring break quite easy and can leave you without settings. Easy to check, unsure about pricing to fix.


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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2009, 10:00:09 am »
Stronger subframe bolts and allen key replacements for the other nuts and bolts are good to have, but not too expensive to change yourself. If an owner has done this, it is at least an indication that he/she cares
 

Offline LeonDude

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2009, 10:05:45 am »
Check if the safety switch on the sidestand and the clutch lever has been modified.

It might not tell you much about the condition of the bike, but it is good info to have.
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Offline Groenie

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2009, 01:00:06 pm »
Swingarm/rear suspension bearing can cost a lot to replace. Make sure it's been lubed recently.
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Offline WabbitKiLR

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2009, 12:11:10 pm »
Check the rear shock. They have a tendency to destroy oil seals if lots of sand and/or mud is flung against it
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Offline Raggety

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2009, 12:25:35 pm »
* Ask if the Doo was replaced.

*Check for wheel bearings, they are not sealed bearing and wear out quite quick. not too expensive to replace

* Rear shock adjustment ring break quite easy and can leave you without settings. Easy to check, unsure about pricing to fix.



Whta is the Doo   or the DooHickey?
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Offline RobC

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2009, 12:27:03 pm »
* Ask if the Doo was replaced.

*Check for wheel bearings, they are not sealed bearing and wear out quite quick. not too expensive to replace

* Rear shock adjustment ring break quite easy and can leave you without settings. Easy to check, unsure about pricing to fix.



Whta is the Doo   or the DooHickey?
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Offline jxharding

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2010, 01:58:00 pm »
i'd like to document this somewhere:
buddy has a KLR, he went through a small river crossing @ baviaans, and then after that the bike did not want to start again.
feared for the worst.

bike went in to electical guy , the electrical unit was tested and replaced but still nothing.

in the end, it was the cut-out switch which got damaged , by hook and by crook at the same time as the water crossing happened.
thus : check the cut-out switch on the KLR's before you take out the CDI unit.
also check it before you buy the bike, and there's starting problems, it could be the cut-out.
 

Offline RobC

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2010, 04:04:10 pm »
i'd like to document this somewhere:
buddy has a KLR, he went through a small river crossing @ baviaans, and then after that the bike did not want to start again.
feared for the worst.

bike went in to electical guy , the electrical unit was tested and replaced but still nothing.

in the end, it was the cut-out switch which got damaged , by hook and by crook at the same time as the water crossing happened.
thus : check the cut-out switch on the KLR's before you take out the CDI unit.
also check it before you buy the bike, and there's starting problems, it could be the cut-out.

The side stand switch is a well documented problem.
 

Offline lecap

Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2010, 07:42:28 am »
Fixing (permanently) the rear shock spring preload adjuster is R 300 (loose shock) and about R 450 if you bring a (clean) bike. Fix possible no matter if the adjuster is fubar already or as preventive measure.

Check steering head bearings. Especially the 2008ff models came with overtightened bearings from the factory. If not corrected at the PDI the bearings will self destruct within the first few thousand km. Symptoms: Bike does not want to run straight at low speed, high speed instability, steering "locks" in the centre.
Costs about a Grand to fix incl. parts.
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Offline RobC

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2010, 03:32:25 pm »
Check the rear shock. They have a tendency to destroy oil seals if lots of sand and/or mud is flung against it
Fit a mudflap to prevent this...

Could you pls post a pic of you mudflap,is it a home made ?
Yes, used some fuel proof rubber sheeting, can't remember exact size, a 10mmx +-100mm aluminium and 2 pop rivets & washers.
The mudguard under the seat actually has 2 holes in it already! Like it was meant to have one. ::)
Here is a similar setup;
http://www.penguinpowered.ca/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4624
Mine is longer and slips in between the swingarm and shock, about as long as the drain pipes that hang there as well.
I googled "klr shock mud flap" and found a lot of ideas before I made mine.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2010, 03:33:44 pm by RobC »
 

Offline Cave Girl

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2010, 05:17:29 pm »
[
thus : check the cut-out switch on the KLR's before you take out the CDI unit.
also check it before you buy the bike, and there's starting problems, it could be the cut-out.

[/quote]

Happend to me on a rocky patch the weekend - fortunatly happend on the KLE so knew exactly what it was - is there any way to prevent this happening - on the KLE I just had it removed.
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Offline donovan paton

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2010, 09:56:11 pm »
when you get your new bike, strip all the bolts out and lock tight everything, if it looks like it might come loose, it will. had my bottom sub frame bolts come loose at 8000km?

replace the standerd foot pegs with off-road ones, mud + ridding boots = dent in tank from your best friend.
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Offline Berty77

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2011, 04:05:58 pm »
Bottom triple clamp is made of very soft/brittle metal, check that everything on the front is true and straight.
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Offline RobC

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2011, 01:52:57 pm »
Bottom triple clamp is made of very soft/brittle metal, check that everything on the front is true and straight.
Ummm so that would be like saying all Kawas have soft triple clamps?
Do you have documented proof or is this another conspiracy theory? :mwink:
 

Offline Berty77

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2011, 02:06:36 pm »
I bought a 2008 KLR from roxenz on this forum, that info was included with all the printed e-data that came with the bike. And sure as hell, the front was skew, followed the written instructions and straightened it myself. problem: bottom triple clamp. Will see if I can find the e-data source.
ps. Groenie, you're rude.
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Offline Groenie

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2011, 02:22:55 pm »
It's not soft/brittle metal (Cheap definitely) The forks were skew that's all
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Offline Berty77

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Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2011, 02:40:48 pm »
It's not soft/brittle metal (Cheap definitely) The forks were skew that's all

(uncommon)problem: bottom triple clamp

Before you buy, check for it anyway.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 10:26:58 pm by Berty77 »
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Offline lecap

Re: BEFORE YOU BUY A KLR CHECK FOR THIS
« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2011, 08:48:17 am »
I will extend this as I find time and remember other things:

KLR checklist:

KL650A / B (Tengai) - very old models:

Disintegrating lash dampers in balancer chain sprockets (up to 1994?)


KL650A later models 1996 - 2007:

Pisa Shite gearshift lever: Welded from stamped & bent sheetmetal. Dark olive in colour. Cracks next to weld. All KL600's and KL650A models from 1987, except 2007


KL650C (Euro model 1995 - 2002):

Can't remember anything except things listed under all ABC models or all KLR's below.

Note that the C is the only factory standard KLR that is correctly set up to cope with passenger transport or heavy luggage.

Add on Aug.2012: I found fork springs start to collapse with time and loose their preload. Best to fit aftermarket progressive springs anyway.


"New" KLR (KL650E):

Some 2008 model year bikes had poorly machined cylinders and guzzle oil.
Add on Aug. 2012: I've seen this on later models too. Even one 2011 (black frame) :o

The "doohickey" whilst improved still does not really work. You want at least another spring or ideally an Eagle lever conversion.

The 2008 and 2009 model years had one pocket holding a starter gar shaft machined too deep. Very cheap to fix potentially very expensive if things come apart.

The tank was riding on the wiring loom cutting into it. Check on top of the frame holding the coolant reservoir.


All "ABC" KLR's 1987 - 2007 models:

Eagle Lever conversion is essential not optional. I have a cracked crankcase to prove this point.

A left mirror & choke lever mounted on the back of the clutch lever armature is a bonus. (Arrowhead conversion)

Shitty fuse boxes: The 19th century glass tube fuses tend to self destroy from vibration. The 10A light fuse is also insufficient and will blow sometimes when changing from dipped headlight to high beam or back.
Arrowhead ATO fuse conversions or similar DIY modifications are higly recommended.

Radiator fan: Pull the connector off the thermo switch at the rear bottom of the radiator and ground it against the blank cylinder head ribs or a bolthead. The fan must run (regardless if the ignition is on or off). If not check if the fan turns freely and the fuse (behind the coolant reservoir) is OK. Cheap to replace the fuse. Not so cheap to replace the fan relais. Replacing the fan itself is nowhere near cheap.


All A's, B's and E's:

The cast aluminium bracket that holds the foot brake lever and master cylinder is quite brittle. Check for damages. You won't be able to straighten it, it breaks :-\ A Happy Trails or Eagle Mfg. billet aluminium replacement is a big bonus.
Update: The design of the frame has been changed (2012ff?) and the breakage prone bracket was eliminated. Everything looks strangely familiar and reminds me of the setup in the 1995 - 2002 KL650C models with master cylinder and brake lever attached to the frame. Funny how long it takes for modifications to permeate from one to another near identical KLR model. 12 years & 18 years :o  See gearshift lever of the KL650A ::)

Stripped rear shock spring preload adjuster. Not a biggie, I  fix them :D

Pap suspension: The front fork springs are more or less pathetic. The rear only works for light riders up to about 80kg, little luggage and more technical riding. If you want to ride two up a bike with upgraded suspension is a huge bonus.


All KLR's:

Rear suspension lever pivot: Remove the round plastic caps from the frame behind the footpegs (If they are still there).
Loosen the 22mm nut on the pivot bolt. Tap the bolt with the rear wheel off the ground. It should come out without much resistance. 2 or 3 cm is enough to check.  Note: It does not help if you can turn the bolt!!! The inner race of the needle bearing in the suspension lever rusts onto the bolt if not greased liberally early in the bikes life. VERY DIFFICULT to fix once it's stuck properly.

Water pump shaft seals: Not a real problem but check the presure relief bore underneath the water pump for fluid leaks. The saft seals typically last about 70,000km.

Edit 10 July 2013:
The speedometers of all KLR models aren't the most durable. My C models clocks rarely survived the seven on the first digit but they at least were cheap to replace (at less then R 1000 for the mechanical guts).
Similar situation on the old A models with the nasty difference that the speedometer insert costs over R 2,000 :-\
Nasty if you have  a KL650E: Whilst a stuck trip counter reset is fixable a seized spindle isn't. The whole cluster less the housing comes as a unit and sets you back almost R6k.
Over and above this check all the usual stuff.

Despite all the niggles:
A well set up and well looked after KLR is a capable and worthwhile bike.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2013, 01:37:30 pm by lecap »
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