DR650 bash plate and cooling. Should I cut holes?

[Hagar]

Bought a piece of 5mm ali, cut it up after playing with cardboard , and made myself a bash plate.  I initally only fitted the plate at the bottom of the engine, and did a few trips like that, but then decided to add the wings on the side to protect the casings during a fall.  The result is similar to the Austalian Whipps and B&B plates, which the Aussies seem to like a lot.

Cost till now: Plate R60 + bending tip to Rasta on the bending brake at local steel supplier R50 + welding R150  = R210.  It is sturdy and does not really add to noise, mostly I like it.

My problem now is to decide how many holes to cut into it.  I will add one for the sump plug but what about cooling?

I am sure the casings feel quite a lot hotter than it did before, especially since I added the wings.  How important is this? I looked on the net and I did not find a lot on this apart from this:        http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tiaug06.html     article.

The wings are sturdy enough that some cutouts would not really hurt, if I cut holes in the bottom plate where they will help for cooling they will also be in line with the wheel where it will throw up all kinds of k*k on the engine, which will now be more difficult to clean properly.

The Aussies operate their DRs with this kind of plate and I have never seen heat discussed as an issue.  Cutting the holes should not be a problem; I would be able to cut any type or shape of hole I want. (Garage well equipped)

Suggestions?

[Welsh]

Cut a hole in the bottom so you can change your oil without taking it off.. otherwise leave it.

Cut some covers for your clutch housing and epoxy / silicone them on, looks cool works well.

[blazes]

As far as i know some of the bashplates that are made with holes in are for the newer generation bikes that use very little oil in the motor. The aftermarket manufacturers cut holes in the plates to.

1. Allow for ventilation to keep the motor cooler.
2. To access the sump plug.
3. To help mud from not being captured between the motor and bash plate.
4. Weight.

Nice looking 

You decide.

[Hagar]

blazes

+
5. That Husky hole might serve as a bottle opener 

[Welsh]

Shoot me it looks cool that is all  except for the farking mud island types where it is needed or they make baked clay engine casings which is an issue.

[tok-tokkie]

The DR has an oil cooler does it not?  If it does then certainly no need to make cooling holes.  I have something similar on my TW which is also an air cooled engine but no oil cooler.  I am going to fit an oil cooler.

[Martin-DR650]

No need for HOLES there mate!!

Dono if you seen mine? But i also made my own skidplate for my DR,and there is no holes in it,and not planning on drilling any holes in.

The only hole you must dril is the one for the oil . . .

Bike is fine like that.

No problems!,You making it way too complicated for yourself. . .

No Holes! - Got it?

[lecap]

Tips:

Drop the whole bash plate by about two centimetres.
Added benefits:
If you hit something your bash plate can deform and absorb the impact before your frame cradle does.
The (pricey) cushion lever does not protrude.
Much easier to wash all the dirt out of the bash plate.

5mm is insane & heavy. If you hit something you will damage attachment points, snap bolts etc. The bash plate is supposed to work like a car's bumper and must absorb energy in case of a hard ground contact. A DR is not meant to be a plastic bike dragged over rocks and tree trunks on its belly pan. Use 3mm and save 40% weight.

The kitchen colander fitted to the Husky does not allow a lot of air flow. You need few big holes not many small ones. Fluid dymanics first semester

Can't add any pics?

They are there in the Vendor's thread: http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=36224.0

[Hagar]

Thanks ,  will only cut hole for oil for now.  Le Cap I get the reasoning for lowering the plate an extra 2cm, but lowering it has some serious negatives also.  2cm is a lot to lose in clearance.  DR is low too low as it is when doing things like crossing railway lines.) It is clear though that you did put some thought into it.

[Martin-DR650]

HAGAR - I made my skidplate fit tightly to the frame,It's a 3mm and it is strong. . .

It does the job,and even more, IF on the other hand you wanna take ur DR and do some Enduro races,and take the bike over heavy big rocks and tree trunks,
scraping the belly,and there is that to be carefull about,and take the knock,then go with Lecap and add a cm or 2,to absorb the impact and take the knock.

But in my opinion,it's not nessasary...
I have good groundclearence with mine and there's no holes in ,accept for the "oil-hole". . .

Anyway it's up to you...
Thats just how i roll.
Cheers

[jenks]

Beautiful plate  Eish I miss that bike 

[Martin-DR650]

Oh Hagar,I forgot to say . . .Your custom-made skidplate looks prety good

[SUZBOX]

Don't see th ewholes diong much for cooling but it should make it lighter without loosing strenth.
I want one!!!!

[Hagar]

Thanks for compliments.  The plate took some heavy knocks this weekend, including a rock that bend the one wing a bit at its lowest section.  Had to knock it back with a rubberhammer.  Glad I had it on.  I like the 5mm.  On my bathroom scale, plate ads just over 2kg to my weight.

Martin DR-650, please show some closeups of your plate sometime?  I am now looking for a piece of 6mm stainless to make a flange, want to fit the GSXR exhaust lying in the garage.

[Martin-DR650]

Will do as soon as the  - sending a photo option returns. . .