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Author Topic: DR650SE - Lowering  (Read 653 times)

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Offline Bossies

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DR650SE - Lowering
« on: March 13, 2010, 08:46:41 am »
Following on a request from another old post of mine here is some info on how I lowered Mrs Bossies DR650SE.

1. Fitted 20mm bar raisers and pushed the forks through the yokes. Le Cap has a more permanent and correct way of removing spacers in the forks so that you don't need to adjust the yokes. As can be seen the forks are pushed through by about 2". This has made the steering very quick and when stationary the bars want to fall to either side. On the move the bike is very stable.


2. Fit longer (or shorter depending on bike) links / dog bones. The standard link on the DR650SE is 115mm between centres of bolt holes. The longer links I had made as a favour from a engineering company is 140mm from hole to hole. Also move the suspension bolt at the bottom of the monoshock to the lower setting (refer to photo)




3. Shorten the side stand


4. Cut foam out of seat but leaving enough so that it's still comfortable. What usually gets uncomfortable is the remaining edges of the seat that cut into your thighs. So don't take out too much.



New seat height is 750mm unladen. With rider seated I would guess at 675mm. The DR650SE brochure says its 845 high on the standard lower setting. So this exercise will lower it by a further 10cm.

Mrs Bossies is 5.1 and she gets her feet down almost flat now and there is sufficient ground clearance for the average rough gravel road.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2010, 03:21:18 pm by Bossies »
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Ganjora

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2010, 09:42:54 am »
5'1"???
that's nearly a midget.
 

Offline buzzlightyear

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2010, 10:39:24 am »
Thanks Bossies!
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Offline chopperpilot

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2010, 11:05:47 am »
Dankie Bossies! Ek neem aan met Mev Bossies se swangerskap, en jul kleintjie nou 7 maande, het sy nog nie baie die fiets gery nie? :)
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Offline Bossies

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2010, 02:24:26 pm »
Dankie Bossies! Ek neem aan met Mev Bossies se swangerskap, en jul kleintjie nou 7 maande, het sy nog nie baie die fiets gery nie? :)

Ongelukkig ja. Elke nou en dan babysit ek terwyl sy gou om die blok ry. Wat ergste is is dat ons twee travel partners is en nou vir die volgende paar jaar is dit nie rerig n opsie nie. Ek soek maar nogsteeds vir a sidecar vir my R80GS vir wanneer sy groot genoeg is veilig saam te kom ry en kamp...
« Last Edit: March 13, 2010, 06:41:06 pm by Bossies »
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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2010, 03:30:11 pm »
Het 2 weke gelede vir my vrou 'n identiese Dr aangeskaf. Sy is gelukkig 1.7m lank. Beplan om vir eers net die agterste skokbreker te doen.

Waar het jy die "luggage rack" gekry? Van wat se metaal is dit gemaak, en wat is die groote van die basis? Is op soek na iets wat nie te groot is nie? Beplan hudiglik om een self te maak, behalwe indien ek 'n "rack" vir 'n goeie prys kry. Kan jy dalk vir my 'n foto neem, van die "rack" met die "topbox" verwyder? ;D

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Offline Bossies

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2010, 06:57:45 pm »
I scanned Google for a couple of ideas then sketched the detail below and gave it to the guys doing the stainless steel handrails on our site and they made it up for me. The middle slot plate lines up with the bolt on the tailpiece. I fitted two rubber door stops between the plate and the tailpiece. the two side arms you need to bend in to align with the side seat bolts. Does that make sense?
I ended up used 20mm round tube which it chunky. You can use more standard 18m or 16mm round tube. Rather don't use square tube.

« Last Edit: March 14, 2010, 06:59:29 pm by Bossies »
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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2010, 10:55:25 am »
Thanx Bossies! I need all the idees I can get...will put me on the right track! :biggrin:
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Offline lecap

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2010, 08:44:14 am »
The fork tubes are pushed through waaaay too far. The front wheel will lock in the front fender when the forks bottom out.  :o
You should never drop the forks by more than 30mm in the triple clamps.
Moving the spacers in the forks acheives a drop of 40mm if I remember correctly (This does not affect the wheel clearance).
You can acheive more than 40mm drop of the front end by further limiting the suspension travel with custom made spacers. It should be possible and safe to go to a drop of 70 or even 80mm. Use either thin wall welded steel tubing or precision tubing or aluminium for the spacers. Custom made spacers also allow you to decrease the spring preload a little bit (less 5 to 10mm) which helps with good suspension response for a very light rider.
Ideal solution would be custom made spacers in combination with progressive springs.

Fitting longer links into the rear suspension is also anything but a good idea - especially going 25mm longer:
First problem is wheel clearance.
Second problem is clearance between brake caliper and exhaust pipe.
Going over the first whoop your rear wheel will rip the mudguard and everything attached to it off the bike whilst the caliper smashes a big ding into the can.
You will also have to check if the lower run of the chain stays clear of the swingarm protector underneath the swingarm pivot under normal riding conditions. If not the chain will wear through the rubber in no time and ruin the swingarm.

The way to go in the back is shortening the damper piston rod. This decreases the suspension travel without reducing wheel clearance when bottoming out.
Modify the lower spring seat according to the instructions in the workshop manual when lowering the rear by using the alternate bolt hole on the bottom of the shock. This serves to reduce the wheel travel and ensure clearance between wheel & mudguard as well as brake caliper & exhaust can.
The DR650SE rear shock can take quite a bit of shortening as the upper spring mount can be backed up quite a bit. You still might need to get a spring compressor to assemble the shock.

Once you're done with the lowering especially if it's a custom jobbie check wheel clearances PROPERLY!
Fit forks without springs.
Fit rear shock without spring.
You should have at least 15-20mm clearance between a NEW tire and any non rotating part of the bike. Note that some knobblies are quite a bit taller than others and fitting a nice fat 140/90x17 will also make a difference as opposed to the OEM 120/90x17.
Also observe min. clearance between swingarm / brake caliper and exhaust. Ideally check with the rubber endstop removed from the shock as it will compress considerably when the shock bottoms out. With the rubber endstop removed 5mm clearance between brake caliper and exhaust is fine.

Do not think you will never bottom out the suspensions. YOU WILL!!!

As a special DR650SE note: When modifying the shock to run on the lowered setting with the lower spring seat turned around make very sure that the endstop rubber is in very good condition. It needs to secure the steel washer inside the spring seat. If the washer can bounce around it will damage the chroming of the piston rod.
Ideally drill the washer and spring seat to bolt the washer onto the seat with two 4mm countersunk screws.
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Offline Bossies

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2010, 07:55:36 pm »
Thanks for the input Le Cap. You sound horrified.  :o :eek7:

I do appreciate you comments and must admitt to technically agreeing with them all. Emotionally I am happy with my decision.

But we have come a very long way with lowering a F650 Funduro, TW125 and a XR250 by the same extreme measures to allow Mrs Bossies to get her feet on the ground. After doing 27,000km without any mishap and knowing Mrs Bossies riding style and the type of roads she wont consider riding I can safely say  the bike as it is now is good for the job. I don't see Mrs Bossies getting any air over a blind rise in Baviaans and bottoming out. Then again she does occassionally bottom out on the back when going over the serious speed humps up the road. I can inform you that the back tyre hits the mud guard before the brake caliper reaches the exhaust. If we where to consider a long trip that required some luggage on Mrs Bossies bike then that would be another matter and we would be making contact with you to come for a visit to help us get sorted.



But I do take in on myself to seriously consider you comments and spend some time with Mrs Bossies bike this weekend and see what I can do better.
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Offline lecap

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Re: DR650SE - Lowering
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2010, 06:52:45 am »
Forgot to mention: Asa an alternative to shortening the rear damper piston rod you can also fit a ring between the damper piston and bearing block. Just make sure it does seat on the piston without obstructing oil flow and on the bearing block without touching anything that might suffer.
As opposed to shortening the piston rod this modification is easier to reverse.
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