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Author Topic: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?  (Read 1087 times)

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Offline IDR

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #40 on: April 08, 2010, 08:17:05 am »
I saw one at Mean Machine for 55... it might have been an '09 model though.
The three things you need to fix anything in the universe: duct tape, WD-40 and a hammer.  If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape.  If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40.  Otherwise use the hammer.
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #41 on: April 08, 2010, 08:29:14 am »
On the latest KLRs they have sorted the Doohickey too, so no worries about that.

 :laughing4: :laughing4: :laughing4:

Who told you that fairy tale?

Only a bit longer time, not as if it cost you mega bucks or something? Nee kom nou Lecap, splitting hairs here.  :biggrin:

Valves is MUCH quicker on the DR. Accessible within five minutes from fully assembled bike. Parts to remove: Side covers, seat & tank, six bolts. Then the maintenance covers, another four bolts. Also no shims.
I've owned and serviced KLR, DR as well as F650GS and F650GSDakar.

sorry lecap ... fuel filter ... still 100% stock standard as it left the factory floor

And your mileage was ???
Who is servicing your bike ???

They probably also told you "ah but we only do it every 80 000 and it's fine"
'Cause they know better than the engineer in Munich ???
You'll think about that again being stranded in Khayelitsha at 2am

If I were you I'd go and buy the water pump repair kit so long ;D

LeCap........... been searching for long range tank prices (even second hand) - any ideas as to capacity or pricing? I see the Aqualine Fuel Tank is also an option... but a bit costly....... but is a 30litre tank  :mwink:

Clarke 16l, very good quality & perfect fit, looks cool, sleek, about R3500

IMS 19l, also good quality and fit, slightly more bulk than the Clarke but ok, R4000

Aqualine petrol bomb. The one I saw was poor. Did not fit at all without cutting tank rubbers etc, the cross brace looks as if someone made it behind his shack in Gugulethu, fat, ugly, heavy. Restricts access to spark plugs (for those who occasionally turn their bike into a submarine) You will have to get fork springs to cope with the extra weight on the front. But it's big. Too big IMHO R7000

Above prices are for tanks supplied by me ex. my shop in CT incl. evreything like shipment, VAT, customs & clearance fees.
You can save some money if you go through the effort and import yourself.


Can confirm pricing for KLR R59995 and DR 55000 this week at Suzuki & Kawasaki South no special nix 2009 model official prices.
"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur." (Red Adair)
 

Offline IDR

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #42 on: April 08, 2010, 08:46:40 am »
On the latest KLRs they have sorted the Doohickey too, so no worries about that.
Who told you that fairy tale?

Correct me if I'm wrong - but the actual lever in the 2007 / 2008 has been confirmed to be of a better quality than the one on the previous models - negating the need for it to be replaced?

Then, again, correct me if I'm wrong, but in the above-mentioned models, the spring was too long, but in the 2009 and 2010 model years, the spring was superceded by a spring that is shorter, and thus also makes it function as it should have previously?

Just asking, correct me if I'm wrong.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2010, 08:47:06 am by IDR »
The three things you need to fix anything in the universe: duct tape, WD-40 and a hammer.  If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape.  If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40.  Otherwise use the hammer.
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #43 on: April 08, 2010, 09:05:01 am »
It's still ill fitting (that is the lever on the shaft) allowing too much play and it has very little adjustment range.
An Eagle Mike modified KLR will run smoother and quieter for longer.
"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur." (Red Adair)
 

Offline IDR

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #44 on: April 08, 2010, 09:06:43 am »
fair enough, I also see the spring is the same part number: 92145-0529

So not superceded... apologies.  Should have known better than to disagree with you  ;)
The three things you need to fix anything in the universe: duct tape, WD-40 and a hammer.  If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape.  If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40.  Otherwise use the hammer.
 

Offline MildDog

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #45 on: April 08, 2010, 09:21:13 am »
Its nice/mildly amusing watching the DR riders get so heated about our bikes  O0
I crash test all of my safety gear. Do you?
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #46 on: April 08, 2010, 09:44:57 am »
fair enough, I also see the spring is the same part number: 92145-0529

So not superceded... apologies.  Should have known better than to disagree with you  ;)

I also noticed the part number not having changed. Means either the springs come with a huge tolerance range as I've seen differences in free length of about 4mm (note that even the shortest ones are way longer than the ones used successfully by Eagle Mike). Or Kawasaki has changed the part but does not want anyone to know. Would not surprise me either after the whole doohickey debacle has been dragging on since 1984 ::)

Its nice/mildly amusing watching the DR riders get so heated about our bikes  O0

Sometimes comments are just factually wrong. Like the oh so long BMW maintenance interval and the oh so frequent Jap bike service requirements. Then I'm happy to split a hair or two ;D

Besides that I know I've got the best bike, actually two of them, and if that's not enough I also have a KLR and not just any KLR but the bestest everest! ;D

And if you don't agree go and ride your own bike  ;D
"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur." (Red Adair)
 

Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #47 on: April 08, 2010, 09:59:26 am »
55 000km still running the original fuel filter - have not noticed any change in fuel consumption or performance  :thumleft:

valve clearances are done every 20 000km (on bmw recommendation) - i have never burnt a valve, have no starting problems

still the original battery that came with the bike

lecap do you always follow the service "guide" to the letter ???

i would hope that a person with as much experience as yourself would like to save your clients some money on the long term

even with every 20k valve clearances not all the valves are out all the time - at 20k some valves were left as is and they were only adjusted at 40k

i'm all for commonsense and saving money on not doing things unnecessarily   :peepwall:
 

Online RobC

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #48 on: April 08, 2010, 10:11:42 am »
fair enough, I also see the spring is the same part number: 92145-0529

So not superceded... apologies.  Should have known better than to disagree with you  ;)
I share your love for the KLR but I do say that the DR is a better DIY type of bike... plus the Doo is still an issue on the KLR's. :-\
Would I swap my KLR for a DR... NO!
Would I take a DR as a gift or if I had money for one... YES!
But then I want a Tenere as well! :mwink:
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #49 on: April 08, 2010, 10:24:39 am »
i'm all for commonsense and saving money on not doing things unnecessarily   :peepwall:

Common sense tells me to rather trust the expertise of the guy who issued the maintenance schedule than some self declared expert who will probably find all kind of explanations why you burned a valve besides his recommendation to stretch the service intervals.

And yes I do follow the maintenance schedule (schedule not "guide") to the letter. That's the least my customers can expect for their hard earned money.
This saves a lot of money in the long term because small problems are recognised and fixed before they become big and expensive. Like correcting too little valve clearance as opposed to replacing a burned valve for example.  >:D
There's more than enough workshops out there doing cheap work for peanuts. You're more than welcome to go there, it's your bike.
But please don't complain when it goes wrong.
I see the results of cheap & unprofessional maintenance or no maintenance on a regular basis. They usually range from pricey to gut wrenching.

I also see my fleet of bike hire bikes, up to 15 at a time, various models and manufacturers, accumulating about a million kms over ten years, all serviced in accordance and sometimes exceeding the manufacturers maintenance schedule coming home with a nearly immaculate reliability record.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2010, 10:26:35 am by lecap »
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Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #50 on: April 08, 2010, 10:30:14 am »
I share your love for the KLR but I do say that the DR is a better DIY type of bike... plus the Doo is still an issue on the KLR's. :-\

To do valves on the KLR you need a torque wrench and shims if the valve clearances are out of spec.

4 new valve shims add quite considerably to the service cost.

The DR's valve clearances are set with tappet screws.
"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur." (Red Adair)
 

Online RobC

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #51 on: April 08, 2010, 10:33:41 am »
I share your love for the KLR but I do say that the DR is a better DIY type of bike... plus the Doo is still an issue on the KLR's. :-\

To do valves on the KLR you need a torque wrench and shims if the valve clearances are out of spec.

4 new valve shims add quite considerably to the service cost.

The DR's valve clearances are set with tappet screws.
and one has to remove less as well to get there I think.
But what irks me the most on the KLR is the spark plug location/accessibility and the way it fits in the head... a crud trap of note! :xxbah:
Fixed mine with a nice rubber grommet that fits snugly in the hole and around the plug ceramic. No more crud in the mineshaft! :deal:
 

Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #52 on: April 08, 2010, 10:49:06 am »
i'm all for commonsense and saving money on not doing things unnecessarily   :peepwall:

Common sense tells me to rather trust the expertise of the guy who issued the maintenance schedule than some self declared expert who will probably find all kind of explanations why you burned a valve besides his recommendation to stretch the service intervals.

And yes I do follow the maintenance schedule (schedule not "guide") to the letter. That's the least my customers can expect for their hard earned money.
This saves a lot of money in the long term because small problems are recognised and fixed before they become big and expensive. Like correcting too little valve clearance as opposed to replacing a burned valve for example.  >:D
There's more than enough workshops out there doing cheap work for peanuts. You're more than welcome to go there, it's your bike.
But please don't complain when it goes wrong.
I see the results of cheap & unprofessional maintenance or no maintenance on a regular basis. They usually range from pricey to gut wrenching.

I also see my fleet of bike hire bikes, up to 15 at a time, various models and manufacturers, accumulating about a million kms over ten years, all serviced in accordance and sometimes exceeding the manufacturers maintenance schedule coming home with a nearly immaculate reliability record.

funny lecap how you after years of working on bikes you have learned that you should replace the doo-hickey even if its not stipulated in the almighty "schedule" ???

you learn things as you go along in the industry - at least i hope you do.

and if the bmw workshop (who probably services 100 bmw bikes for every 1 bmw bike you service) have learned after checking valve clearances every 10k that its a waste as they dont change that quickly - rather make it every 20k

but then again lets not argue with the "schedule"

some places use the "schedule" to up their profit as they do what is stipulated to be done

if its not necessary and you know its not necessary its the same as a plumber that tells you you need to replace part x even if party x is still 100% working - its called theft/steeling

« Last Edit: April 08, 2010, 10:53:08 am by the_BOBNOB »
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #53 on: April 08, 2010, 11:22:11 am »
It's your bike.

And now please don't accuse me of theft and I'll refrain from calling you names :deal:

I'd rather have my customers complaining about me upping my profits using and following the manufacturers maintenance schedule than complaining that I fcuked up their bike by negligence.

Replacing the KLR650's balancer idler lever is additional preventive maintenance on top of the scheduled one, not omitting scheduled service items.
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Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #54 on: April 12, 2010, 12:55:19 pm »
It's your bike.

And now please don't accuse me of theft and I'll refrain from calling you names :deal:

I'd rather have my customers complaining about me upping my profits using and following the manufacturers maintenance schedule than complaining that I fcuked up their bike by negligence.

Replacing the KLR650's balancer idler lever is additional preventive maintenance on top of the scheduled one, not omitting scheduled service items.

so i was looking at the haynes manual (and yes the haynes manual is not the bmw maintenance schedule) but it has a full bmw schedule in the manual

they say valve clearances 10 000km*

and when you look at the foot note they say

"...valve clearance can be moved to every 20 000km..."

 

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #55 on: April 12, 2010, 01:02:01 pm »
so i was looking at the haynes manual (and yes the haynes manual is not the bmw maintenance schedule) but it has a full bmw schedule in the manual

they say valve clearances 10 000km*

and when you look at the foot note they say

"...valve clearance can be moved to every 20 000km..."



4 days later,  that must have been working on your mind...
 

Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #56 on: April 12, 2010, 01:09:59 pm »
so i was looking at the haynes manual (and yes the haynes manual is not the bmw maintenance schedule) but it has a full bmw schedule in the manual

they say valve clearances 10 000km*

and when you look at the foot note they say

"...valve clearance can be moved to every 20 000km..."



4 days later,  that must have been working on your mind...

no i was doing a oil change and filter change on the bike and i just happend to browse the workshop manual  :-\
 

Offline lecap

Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #57 on: April 12, 2010, 10:06:11 pm »
The H. manuals hang in my toilet should the baby soft run out. They ain't good for this job either. Working off a Haynes to fix & maintain a bike is the same as using them as toilet paper - a pain in the arse :evil6:

If you can afford a R50000+ or more bike surely you can afford to fork out a few hundred rand for an OEM manual? Or at least search for a ripped PDFed one on the www?

"...valve clearance can be moved to every 20 000km..."

I'm sure it also says this is factory approved and does not void your warranty.
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Offline Etienne2T

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #58 on: April 12, 2010, 10:22:12 pm »
Seems dr650's are gods gift to the world of motorcycles
 

Offline the_BOBNOB

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Re: DR650 vs KLR650 .... WD input please?
« Reply #59 on: April 12, 2010, 11:48:00 pm »
The H. manuals hang in my toilet should the baby soft run out. They ain't good for this job either. Working off a Haynes to fix & maintain a bike is the same as using them as toilet paper - a pain in the arse :evil6:

If you can afford a R50000+ or more bike surely you can afford to fork out a few hundred rand for an OEM manual? Or at least search for a ripped PDFed one on the www?

"...valve clearance can be moved to every 20 000km..."


i have the OEM manuals - but the haynes manual has pretty pictures in  ;D

I'm sure it also says this is factory approved and does not void your warranty.

no the haynes does not say that - but the bmw workshop manager did say that - but the warranty has come and gone a long time ago already  :'(