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Offline Just Blip It!

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Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« on: June 20, 2010, 07:12:38 pm »



A few months ago, my brother Dave invited me to join him for a trip back to our roots, a trip to Zimbabwe with 4 of our close mutual friends, John L, John B, Charl, and Craig, all from Nelspruit and all on KTMs.
I say back to our roots because both Dave and I were born in Zimbabwe and grew up there until we left in 1982 to live in RSA. Although I have been back quite regularly since then on trips to Kariba, Vic Falls and Mana pools, I had never been back to my home town of Chimanimani since leaving, 28 years!

Day1; Hoedspruit to Beitbridge.

All the guys decided to leave Nelspruit on Friday 11th June and come and stay at my place in Hoedspruit, where we would all leave for Zim on the Saturday. It was decided to leave Nelspruit at lunch time so that they could make it to Hoedspruit in time to watch Bafana Bafana play in the first match of the SWC. Safari Club in Hoedspruit was the venue to watch the game, the spirit of the locals in this small bushveld town was astounding, and the beer flowed as Bafana logged up the first goal of the match!







Early on Saturday morning we all left my place on a route up through Limpopo, we were to be treated to some awesome back roads through rural Limpopo, up through Leydsdorp, Gravelotte, Giyani, Thouyandou and Chipise to name a few towns.

Leaving my place on Saturday morning, Charl 950SE, Dave 950SE, Craig 950SE, John L 950SE, John B 640 Adventure and me 990R Adventure.





First stop was the ghost town of Leydsdorp, the smallest city in South Africa and once the capital of the Lowveld, was named in honour of President Paul Kruger's secretary of state, Dr William Leyd. Having shot his first lion at the age of twelve, Paul Kruger was a keen hunter and used to visit his hunting house (which can still be seen today) on a regular basis. In fact, he enjoyed it so much, that when he needed to put his signature on a few important documents that were only allowed to be signed in a city, he proclaimed it as such. And thus Leydsdorp was proclaimed an official city on 1 October 1890. However, the history of Leydsdorp started as early as 1870 with the discovery of gold, the extent of which was fully recognised in 1887/8, starting the 2nd gold rush in South Africa. Sadly, just when uncle Paul thought he could maintain state control over the mining through the proclamation of the area as the Selati Goldfields, the sudden and rapid boom ended as quickly as it had started.





Craigs 950SE at Leydsdorp.



My Adventure outside the Leydsdorp hotel.





John L and his 950SE at Leydsdorp.



John B and his 640 ADV at Leydsdorp.



[Dave my brother with his 950SE outside Porters Pub at Leydsdorp.



Charl in front then Dave and John L in Leydsdorp main street.



Leydsdorp main street.



From there it was on some lovely gravel roads cruising 2 at a time side by side 120km/h all the way to Giyani where we stopped for breakfast at the Wimpy. A friendly bustling town where everyone greeted us. Soccer fever was still running high in this town, we ate our breakfast to the sound of wailing vuvuzelas in the distance.





From Giyani, it was onto Thouyandou and then Chipise and Musina. The riding got a little more challenging, there were more cattle, goats and donkeys to dodge, but the scenery was lush bushveld and many flowing rivers.



John B and his trusty 640 near Giyani.



Charl and his 950SE.



We stopped in Musina at a friend of mine, Henry, who arranged a runner for the Zim side of the border, it is common knowledge that the runners at the border are mostly there to rip off tourists, withholding passports until an exorbitant fee is payed, so to save time and to make sure we got a good trustworthy runner, Henry arranged for Brian to meet us at the Zim border. Henry runs a truck stop and import export business in Musina.
It was also time to say a reluctant goodbye to Charl, he had been invited to join us on the trip, but due to some other commitments could not go, but not wanting to miss out completely he decided to ride with us as far as the border! All our hearts were in our shoes as we bid him goodbye and he started his trip back to Nelspruit. Before he left, he and Dave swapped front wheels as Dave suddenly saw that his font tyre would not last the full trip to Zim and back. Thanks Charl, we definitely missed you on the trip!

Stopped in Musina on Saturday afternoon.









We arrived at the very busy Beitbridge Border post at 4PM, the SA side was busy, a queue that stretched out the door and down the road! ::)
 Lucky for us one of the Customs officials was interested in the bikes and came over to chat, after making friends with him, he promptly took us to the front of the queue, stamped our passports and we were out of there and over the Limpopo to the Zim side to meet with our runner Brian.
Even with our runner it turned out to be a 2 hour wait for everything to be finalized, so after paying our R160 each carbon tax and completing all the paperwork, passports stamped and all for a R100 each "donation" to our runner we finally got through the border after dark.
Our plan was to reach the Lion and Elephant Hotel 82km from Beitbridge, but we were told that it was really rundown ( a fact that we later found to be completely untrue) and that we should rather stay at the Bubi Motel about 2km before the Lion and Elephant.
Now as you know everyone tells you don't travel after dark in Africa, and nothing could be more relevant when referring to this stretch of 82km! Unfortunately we had no choice but to push on slowly along this road with it's wrecked trucks and cars along side the road baring testament to all the accidents on this treacherous section. there were donkeys, cattle, vehicles without lights, vehicles with only high beams, vehicles with only 1 headlight, we came across an accident too. As none of us really ride at night, some of the bikes headlights were either shinning too high or too low, every on coming truck or car would bright us because they think you are a car with one light and they need to see where you are on the road. nearly every vehicle approaching would put there right hand indicator on, I realised this is their way of asking you to do the same, this way they can identify the proximity of the right hand side of your vehicle, once I started responding by putting on my right indicator there was no more brights from the oncoming trucks and buses.  :thumleft:

We arrived at the Bubi Motel at around 8PM, cold tired thirsty and hungry, after quenching our thirsts on a couple of  beers, we ordered Sadza (Zim word for Pap) and stew which went down well, we then order another few rounds to take with to the rooms.



Lizzy kept them coming! ;D







..........and so ended an awesome first day of our trip.

More to come................



« Last Edit: July 04, 2010, 12:40:46 pm by Just Blip It! »
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Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2010, 08:03:04 pm »
I like!! :drif:
Id like to see more of Zim.
Twice I just passed through.
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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2010, 08:13:51 pm »
Awesome - keep it coming!! :thumleft:
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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2010, 07:27:35 am »
Yip. Don't stop writing now!  :happy1:
 

Offline Berm_Rooster

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2010, 08:01:29 am »
Nice guys. Keep it coming! :thumleft:
 

Offline letsgofishing

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2010, 08:25:09 am »
Sounds like it's going to be an interesting ride - more please!  ;D
There is nothing you can do about the past and you can't predict the future...all you have is the now...live it to the fullest.

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Offline Hentie @ Riders

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2010, 09:14:35 am »
Nice  :happy1:

Offline madmike999

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2010, 09:15:18 am »

Nice  :happy1:
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Offline Iron Shark

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2010, 09:30:10 am »
 :happy1:
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Offline TornadoF5

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #9 on: June 21, 2010, 12:21:04 pm »
Hey boys MUSHI is all I can say keep it coming! Did a 4 month stint in Binga & Halfway house love it!!
Also planing a trip up sometime soon.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 12:51:23 pm by TornadoF5 »

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Offline Just Blip It!

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2010, 02:21:35 pm »
Day 2; Bubi River to Chiredzi.

After a good nights rest and a lekker hot shower, we kitted up early and got a good look at our accommodation in the morning light. The Bubi Motel which cost us $25 US per room per night, comfortable, but right next to the highway and the trucks pass by all night long!



Dave kitting up.





From there we filled up with Zimbabwe unleaded which is called Blend, a type of Sugar Cane derived ethanol fuel which cost about $1.26 US per litre.
2km down the road we stopped at the Lion & Elephant Hotel for Breakfast, the hotel was in a great condition, the owners had apparently returned from Scotland and revamped the Hotel, we regretted not spending the night here rather.  If you ever do stop here, their homemade steak pies are the best I've ever had!!



Dave, myself and Craig at the entrance to the Lion and Elephant Hotel, Bubi river.







After breakfast, we hit the tar road for 82km to the Nuanetsi river, but first we had to stop for a photo at the baobab layby (Zim word for a rest/picnic stop).





Then about 2km before we were due to turn off on our first gravel road I got caught for speeding! :-[ 100km/h in a 60 zone, the fine $20 US, the cops were friendly, I was given an admission of guilt receipt filled out in triplicate, and told to please drive safely.
We left the tar and after 2km came to a guard controlled boom gate, after filling in the visitors book we entered a game reserve and it was 76km to the exit boom on a great road that passed through mopani veld with the occasional Baobab, and many dry river crossings. We hardly saw any animals apart from a few Impala and some baboons.





After exiting the wildlife area we entered a tribal area with little settlements all along the way, most were subsistence farmers growing maize and vegetables, but we did see a lot of cotton fields too. The locals were always friendly waving to us and the children cheered us through their villages!
 The riding was total heaven , the roads were wide, and when the main road deteriorated due to potholes or corrugations, the locals had resorted to driving next to the road, so you could choose between 3 roads all traveling parallel, and when there was an oncoming donkey cart or car you just jumped onto the main dirt road then back off again. I can only describe it as riding poetry!  The speeds we were riding were sometimes in excess of 160km/h, awesome awesome riding. :eek7:
 The bushveld next to the road resembled a park with lovely big trees and beautiful short lawn growing underneath, one could ride just about anywhere here! Total riding bliss!! :drif: :drif:















When fuel was low we stopped at the nearest village, they often sell petrol in containers from the small stores, the fuel is quite clean and when funneled into the bike through a sieve filter it is safe enough.





After filling up we headed for Chipinda pools in the Gonarezhou National Park, we knew that the bridge over the Runde river had been washed away and that we would have to find an alternative crossing place.











We were in awe  :eek7: at the force of what water can do when we finally reached the Lundi bridge, it was a big bridge and at least 80m had been washed away in the 2000 floods! We stopped on the remaining section to admire the view.













We realized that the water was too deep to cross here and we were told by the locals that we could cross 2km in the Gonarezhou National Park close to the Chipinda pools reception, so off we went. We found the crossing which was about knee deep, but about 120m across and we quickly found out it was unridable, the bottom consisted of soccer ball sized boulders which were slippery as snot, I could hardly stay on my feet walking across! It was decided to push the bikes across 2 people at a time. time to get the boots wet!! It was slow and very tiring. :dousing:









Just as we had got 3 of the bikes across a Parks Board official stopped us and duly informed us that should we all get across, we would have to pay $17US each to go through the park which was about 3km before we would be out again, this was too expensive, so back we went and we travelled another 20km up stream where we managed to cross at a small town called Chilonga, but first we stopped at their little market a sampled some very cold zim Castle lagers.







Once across the river we entered Hippo valley, a major sugar plantation with a big sugar mill, I was surprised to see how many people were working as it was a Sunday, but there were people and vehicles operating all over. The dust on these sugar plantations was terrible and the going was slow.
Then we found the tar again, first time in over 300km, and it was on to Chiredzi (10km) to fill up again and find a hotel.
We found a hotel called The Nesbitt Arms, very nice, but at $90 US per person it was a little out of our budget, so we drank some of their beer and proceeded back to the Hippo pools country club.

The Nesbitt Arms







The Hippo Pools Country Club was almost fully booked, but they had a 4 sleeper chalet for $30US for the night, so we took it, I would have to sleep on the floor, luckily I had brought my new ATG stretcher which I bought from Michnus. The one room also had a double bed so John L and Craig decided to share it, it was going to be a cold night and so lepel le would be an advantage. ;D  :pot:













Here we experience awesome hospitality and service, our waiter, Bright, was friendly well educated man, nothing was to much for him, and they fell over themselves trying to help us. I must ad that during our stay in Zimbabwe we soon found that their load shedding was such that most places only had electricity from 8 or 9pm til 5 or 6am daily, so we had to time our showers when there was hot water and most of the hotels cooking was done on gas, coal stove or even open fires.
So ended another fantastic day in Zim, we were tired, but looking forward to the days that lay ahead now that we had had a taste of this DS heaven!





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Offline SilverSurfer--

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #11 on: June 21, 2010, 03:07:24 pm »
More please!! :happy1:
 

Offline Wheelman

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2010, 04:38:36 pm »
More please!! :happy1:

Please sir.... can we have some more :3some:
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Offline Adventurer

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #13 on: June 21, 2010, 04:44:40 pm »
I'm watching this one wityh interest, we're going that way in August...
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Offline MildDog

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #14 on: June 21, 2010, 05:29:03 pm »
Awesome :) My dad was based in Harare for a while, definately going to ride up there sooner or later. Will keep watching!
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Offline mrhyde

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #15 on: June 21, 2010, 07:05:03 pm »
Wow! nice pics...

such hardcore bikes for terrain that you could have done with a Vuka?

Ry die goed man! :drif:
 

Offline Rocstompa

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2010, 09:45:17 pm »
Great ride report, dont take to long with next addition.
 

Offline Just Blip It!

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2010, 10:54:37 pm »
Day3; Chiredzi to Chimanimani.


After enjoying a hearty breakfast at the Hippo Pools Country Club, we refilled our camel packs and rode out of Chiredzi. We had to cover about 50kms of tar before we turned off onto gravel where we again went through a boom into a restricted  conservation area. It was amazing to me that bikes were allowed into these big 5 conservation areas, but I was glad to be able to experience the ride through this area which was part of Devuli Ranch, which was originally settled on by the 2 Bridges brothers who were part of the 1920 settlers. The original Devuli Ranch was 1 million Acres!
On the way through this ranch we travelled 86kms of gravel, and what an awesome ride it was, the lowveld bushveld scenary was again Mopani trees, Baobabs and acacia scrub, with many dry and wet riverbed crossings between beautiful rocky outcrops and kopjies. We saw Giraffe, Impala, Baboon, Kudu, Wildebeest and although we didnít see elephant we saw their sign everywhere including their massive footprints on the road!















Resting under the Mopani trees.



Back on the black top again for a 15km ride tho the famous Birchenough Bridge across the Save River, and what a sight she was when we finally saw her rising majestically from between the Baobabs!
Birchenough Bridge is the name for both a bridge across the Save River (pronounced Sa've) and a village next to the bridge. Birchenough Bridge is located 62 km from Chipinge in the Manicaland province of Zimbabwe  linking Mutare  with Masvingo. The bridge was funded and planned by the Beit Trust, a foundation chaired at the time by Sir Henry Birchenough. It was completed in 1935. At a length of 1080 feet (329 m) it was the third longest single-arch suspension bridge in the world at the time.

Ralph Freeman, the bridge's designer, was also the structural designer on the Sydney Harbour Bridge and consequently the two bridges bear a close resemblance, although Birchenough is only two-thirds as long as the Australian bridge.Ralph Freeman also designed the bridge over the Zambezi at Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe/Zambian border. This design of bridge was tried out in Zimbabwe and when it proved to be successful, the Sydney Harbour Bridge was built.

In the 1970s a 40-tonne load limit was imposed on the bridge but in 1984 the bridge was widened (roadway: 7.2 m to 10 m wide) and strengthened as part of the World Bank's Highway Project One. The village which sprang up next to the bridge has become the centre of a small-scale farming area.

The bridge is widely considered by Zimbabweans as being one of the country's finest pieces of architecture, and as such, it appears on the twenty-cent coin.









The Save River.



We filled up with fuel at the small and busy little town of Birchenough Bridge and then went for lunch at the Birchenough Bridge Hotel which used to be a top class Hotel in it's day, but much had changed.............we decided to settle down in the garden to suck on a few beers and take our boots off to dry in the sun, (they were still wet from yesterdays river crossing) we all ordered the T-bone steak and chips on the menu. The T-bones were ordered medium, but arrived an hour later and were very well done and tasted suspiciously like goat!! :eek7: :imaposer:







John L & I trying to force down the T bones.



John B, "WTF is this?"  :imaposer:



Dave, " Fuck that! I'll stick to the chips thanks!"



After a good couple of beers, John L argued that his nose was not as big as Daves, we humoured them with this photo, Dave in the foreground..................you decide?



Just after leaving the hotel on the tar, we crossed this bridge with a beautiful clear little river, this was too tempting to pass up, Dave and Craig decided to do a little crossing!





The enevitable happened on the way back through the river, Craig fell prey to the combination of short legs, and slippery rocks and dunked his 950SE in the river! :biggrin: :o



Damn! I just got my boots dry now this!



Luckily, no damage, but Craigs battery drained from all the cranking, so we were there for a while......... :dousing:

From there we rode a mountain pass with about 3000 corners that took us up about 1000m to 1400m, what an awesome ride on these bikes, we were throwing them through corners like superbikes. This pass ended at the top at an area known as skyline, the scenery changed dramatically to lush green vegetation and forestry plantations with flat topped umbrella acacia along the road sides.













....and in the far distance the majestic Chimanimani mountain range!



I was really excited to drive down this pass, it had been more than 28 years since I had last been to thie town where I lived and grew up as a boy, back then it was called Melsetter, now it was called Chimanimani after the mountain range that stood before the little village.
We rode into town and headed for the Chimanimani Hotel which would be our home for the next 2 nights.





Our Chalets.







That night we were treated to the best service and hospitality I have experienced in a long time, the Hotel Manager Robson and his staff fussed over us and Robson himself a chef, personally cooked our chicken and chips supper! The beers flowed, and 5 good friends enjoyed a lovely supper together in good company, excellent surroundings and a really great hotel.




















With childhood memories flooding back to me I went to bed that night happy to be back in my home town. Can life get any better than this?

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Offline Berm_Rooster

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #18 on: June 22, 2010, 08:51:37 am »
Nice man! :thumleft:
 

Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: Zimbabwe - 6 Friends & 6 KTMs in DS heaven.
« Reply #19 on: June 22, 2010, 09:54:43 am »
 :drif: :drif: :drif: :drif:
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