DR200 been standing from 2007, what more to do?

[Beltzer]

We went to fetch the bike my brother brought a few weeks back in Lichtenburg.

I cleaned the carb and the fuel tank. The fuel was a dark colour and the tank looks rusty inside. so i put a few bolts in it and shaked it a while. Thee petrol smelled vile!

After it was all back together we tried starting it.
Amazingly it started easily and run quite smooth.

Ive read somewhere on here that we should check the bearings, but everything feel fine.  
The chain is a bit rusty but i think its only outside rust as it feels fine too.
The tyres also looks new
I will change the oil and filter.
Is there anything else thats critical to do before he can set off?

Heres a picture. of the bike, i think for R3000 its a bargain!

[Watty]

Heres a picture. of the bike, i think for R3000 its a moerse bargain!

Fixed!

You should also

1. Replace spark-plug
2. Set chain tension correct (on photo it appears a bit slack) and lube
3. Is brake fluid ok?
4. Clean air filter

[Gérrard]

Bliksem. For that price you just ride it till it breaks(which it probably won't) and then fix it. Still be a bargain.

[Hanno @ Mad Macs]

Bliksem !!!!!

Even I may be able to afford ons of those -

Any more around at that price


Please ? *beg* *beg*

[Welsh]

Replace all fluids, especially any hydraulics, they absorb water so will cause issues, Lichtenberg great buy, not coastal kark... otherwise nothing else

[Stevie]

Heres a picture. of the bike, i think for R3000 its a bargain!


[/quote]

Ag shame man, your poor boet was ripped off!!!!
But being the compassionate guy that I am, tell him I'll give him the 3K for the scoot - rather me ripped off than him - ag shame man
                                                   

[Beltzer]

Heres a picture. of the bike, i think for R3000 its a bargain!

Ag shame man, your poor boet was ripped off!!!!
But being the compassionate guy that I am, tell him I'll give him the 3K for the scoot - rather me ripped off than him - ag shame man
                                                   
[/quote]

 

Ja ja

[Hondsiff Honda]

one of those at kyalami motorcycles for 12k has 6kkm on the clock

[Beltzer]

we've run into a little problem the needle and seat seems to stuck every now and again.
Where can we get a kit fir this Carb? its a BST 31? i think. Google doesnt help.

[lecap]

we've run into a little problem the needle and seat seems to stuck every now and again.
Where can we get a kit fir this Carb? its a BST 31? i think. Google doesnt help.

Get carb cleaner, disassemble, clean & try again. If the bike's low mileage chances are good that it's only getting stuck. Make extra sure to get all the varnish gunk off the needle and out of the seat and also make sure the tiny spring loaded pip inside the needle does not get stuck (clean until it's fine).

Besides that: Swingarm pivot bushes. Plastic kark. If they squeak: I have needle bearing conversions
The rest of the suspensions is of surprisingly high & well working standard for a 200cc.
Front brakes: If they are lousy and only seem to work when they get quite hot like on a 1980's GP racer don't fiddle. It's like that and changing pads and doing whatever will make very little difference. Relying on the aid of the rear drum does make a difference though.
Check carefully if:
The bike uses oil. (It's only got a little bit more than a litre). Suspect: Rust in cylinder sleeve from standing, caused worn side rails. Will need a rebore sooner or later.
The clutch does not disengage fully. Hard to gear down without blipping throttle, neutral hard to find, bike creeps when in gear and clutch disengaged. Suspect: Rusted steel discs in the clutch. Quick and easy to fix but you will have to replace the discs. I did discs and plates in our DR200.

Take the tank to a radiator place for chemical cleaning. Make sure they understand that they must NOT scratch the paintwork.

Besides that: Route the brake line around the INSIDE of the lower fork tube where it belongs!

Get Kings KT966 tires. Don't worry about fitting a 3.00x21 front, the bike actually handles better with the slightly wider front. (Especiually in soft stuff & technical terrain) Just remember that your speedometer will now read your speed VERY precisely and not overrread due to the slightly larger tire circumference of the 3.00x21. Means don't do 70 in a 60 zone and expect to get away without a fine

[Beltzer]

we've run into a little problem the needle and seat seems to stuck every now and again.
Where can we get a kit fir this Carb? its a BST 31? i think. Google doesnt help.

Get carb cleaner, disassemble, clean & try again. If the bike's low mileage chances are good that it's only getting stuck. Make extra sure to get all the varnish gunk off the needle and out of the seat and also make sure the tiny spring loaded pip inside the needle does not get stuck (clean until it's fine).

Besides that: Swingarm pivot bushes. Plastic kark. If they squeak: I have needle bearing conversions
The rest of the suspensions is of surprisingly high & well working standard for a 200cc.
Front brakes: If they are lousy and only seem to work when they get quite hot like on a 1980's GP racer don't fiddle. It's like that and changing pads and doing whatever will make very little difference. Relying on the aid of the rear drum does make a difference though.
Check carefully if:
The bike uses oil. (It's only got a little bit more than a litre). Suspect: Rust in cylinder sleeve from standing, caused worn side rails. Will need a rebore sooner or later.
The clutch does not disengage fully. Hard to gear down without blipping throttle, neutral hard to find, bike creeps when in gear and clutch disengaged. Suspect: Rusted steel discs in the clutch. Quick and easy to fix but you will have to replace the discs. I did discs and plates in our DR200.

Take the tank to a radiator place for chemical cleaning. Make sure they understand that they must NOT scratch the paintwork.

Besides that: Route the brake line around the INSIDE of the lower fork tube where it belongs!

Get Kings KT966 tires. Don't worry about fitting a 3.00x21 front, the bike actually handles better with the slightly wider front. (Especiually in soft stuff & technical terrain) Just remember that your speedometer will now read your speed VERY precisely and not overrread due to the slightly larger tire circumference of the 3.00x21. Means don't do 70 in a 60 zone and expect to get away without a fine

Thanks for the info, we will look into it.

[Beltzer]

thanks lecap. Its running smoothly now, the rev just tale a long time to come down... Probably the diaphram thats sruck a little. We also struggle to put it into neutral whithout blimping the throttle. Clutch plates?

[lecap]

...Its running smoothly now, the rev just tale a long time to come down...  We also struggle to put it into neutral whithout blimping the throttle. Clutch plates?

Bike either runs on main jet only or mostly due to slow circuit mixture screw ill adjusted or filth somewhere along the slow circuit (secondary "slow" jet, air jet (if any) and air passage, slow circuit mix adjustment screw seat).

Yes the steel discs are rusted, tried to "fix" this problem on ours to no avail although it was a little bit better after steel wool & emery paper treatment. Not that it was worth the effort. Best throw steel discs away and replace with new. The friction plates are probably fine.