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Author Topic: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?  (Read 90805 times)

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Offline michnus

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Malawi fewer slows our pace..........
« Reply #120 on: August 29, 2011, 02:44:12 pm »


It was time to move on, the fewer in Malawi is bogging us down. The bikes was fixed and looked after as good as we could, and with some sad faces we rode out of Monkey bay on our way north to Nkatha bay, our next stop. We were bit behind on time for our 6 month planning but thought we would be able to make it up once out of Malawi as there's parts in Tanzania that we can skip.


INFRASTRUCTURE NOT IN GOOD SHAPE


KIDS ARE ALWAYS FAST TO GET SOME CAMERA ACTION

We hugged the coast line of the lake. It's a old narrow road with derelict bridges. For the first time we also saw the famous lake flies of Lake Malawi. Apparently they are so small they can fly through a mosquito net, the larvae at the same time shed their eggs and then get blown up by the wind in their billions to life for a day.




WE SAID GOOD BYE TO JENSON BUTTON AND HIS OLD XT AND BRANDED HIS HOME MADE PANNIERS AS TRAX

We heard some say they do not even have stomachs. Itís mind blowing to see these clouds of flies sweeping across the lake. We also wanted to try them as the locals make small cakes from them, but in the end we could not find any. People told us the flies stink of fish for some reason. It's unbelievable that such small creatures can make up such huge clouds. They are visible over vast distances on the horizon of the lake.


LIFE IS TOUGH IN AFRICA


MYOKA VILLAGE IN NKATHA BAY

Mayoka village in Nkatha bay is a must stay, itís not really geared for kids as thereís no beach. For adults and young travellers its paradise! The lodge hangs on a cliff it was started 13 years ago. From the shower or rooms you can look down into the lake and see the small blue fishes play between the rocks. They offered some of the cheapest rates for their rooms and their food was the best we had in Malawi.
For the time stayed there our bikes were left at the gate with all our kit and they had a guard 24hours a day looking after our stuff.




ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY TOILETS AND OUTSIDE SHOWERS ARE ALL PART OF THIS COOL LODGE

 
FOOD AS ALWAYS ARE GREAT AND THE PARTIES NON STOP.

We went on a free boat trip they offer once a week for cliff diving, Fish Eagle feeding and beach games. The most amazing experience is seeing a Fish Eagle take a fish out of the water right in front of you! I donít think anywhere else in the world will you see something like this.


FISH EAGLE DOING WHAT IT DOES BEST, CATCH FISH, AND HE NEVER MISSED

     
CLIFF DIVING

 



We end up spending another 5 days at Myoka, the Bongi fewer was seriously getting to us. We were behind on time and had to make up skipping other parts of Malawi but it was worth it.

The small town of Nkatha bay is a busy little place with it's own prison and harbour. It's great walking around there exploring the small shops and talking shit with the locals. Some straight out ask for money while others will at least say hello first.






A TRUE WTF MOMENT?


WELL JA, WHAT CAN I SAY, THEY ENFORCE THE LAW


THIS MAN WAS ONE OF THE FOUNDERS AND BUILDERS OF THE LODGE 13 YEARS AGO, HE EARNED HIMSELF THE NAME CHOCOLATE MAN. HE HAS BEEN SELLING CHOCOLATES EVERY NIGHT AT THE LODGE SINCE IT OPENED. THE LODGE IS A COMMUNITY OWNED PLACE.


LIFE IS GOOD, WHAT MORE CAN YOU ASK FOR?
« Last Edit: September 01, 2011, 08:17:14 am by michnus »
 

Offline RD

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The small town of Nkatha...

Did you not perhaps visit Kande Beach? It is close to Nkatha Bay and was the high light destination for me in Malawi when we visited recently. Nice report Michnus, thanks for sharing.
 

Offline michnus

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Nope do you have details? Did you post on your ride report?

Offline Wheelman

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Michnus, you continue to enrich us with your RR. Thanks it certainly has created a desire to travel up to Malawi soon :thumleft:
A road to a friendís house is never long!

I contend that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle. -- Winston Churchill
 

Offline Fuzzy Muzzy

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The small town of Nkatha...

Did you not perhaps visit Kande Beach? It is close to Nkatha Bay and was the high light destination for me in Malawi when we visited recently. Nice report Michnus, thanks for sharing.

+1, it is like an oasis.. This RR makes me so lus to go back to Malawi.. what an awesome place. Great RR keep it coming
Africa trip, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania & Moz rr http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=61231.0
 

Offline plonker

Yip,I could also get bongi fever and stay in Malawi somewhere near the lake.Maybe start a small business of sorts for a few years until you get bored.Do a massage course and offer to rub those young backpacker babes............but work mornings only and jol at night...............ja with the young babes of course.   Shite the mind boggles.  :imaposer:
« Last Edit: August 30, 2011, 02:55:19 pm by plonker »
 

Offline Wheelman

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Yip,I could also get bongi fever and stay in Malawi somewhere near the lake.Maybe start a small business of sorts for a few years until you get bored.Do a massage course and offer to rub those young backpacker babes............but work mornings only and jol at night...............ja with the young babes of course.   Shite the mind boggles.  :imaposer:
Plonker I like your thinking :imaposer: Michnus, I think you may be responsible for a mass exodus soon... :eek7:  :biggrin:
A road to a friendís house is never long!

I contend that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle. -- Winston Churchill
 

Offline plonker

Folks seriously ,if Malema does not get snot klapped today,it may be the thing to do. :-\
 

Offline michnus

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hahaha hey, if it gets oke's off their asses and taking some small bit of risk to enjoy life a bit more, then so be it. Enjoy the beers while at it  :thumright: :mwink:

But thanks, I hope you enjoy the rr and for what it's worth stir the soul for some adventure and riding.

Offline FarScape

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Malawi bucket list - checked.  :thumleft:

So what happened to Jenson after going your separate ways? Is he back in SA already?

Keep it coming loving it so far.

The best time to plant a seed and grow a tree was 20 years ago; the second best time is now.
 

Offline michnus

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Yes he is back in SA. I must say I have huge respect for him, he is kind of guy I call a real adventure rider, he had no skills and no money but a desire to do such a trip and he did it. He took the oldest half dead bike he could afford.

This is part of his mail he send me, it's really funny.

...........................spent a couple nights in kande beach and then nearly a week in mayoka/nkata bay. this was cos there was no fuel again and i had to wait it out. eventually i found fuel in mzuzu and left 20l at mayoka while i explored nyika plateau and livingstonia and caught the ferry in the north. picked up my 20l and got dropped off on the moz side.
i was like an inavios on normandy. i got depositted on the shore by a liferaft and everyone was shouting in the dark. the cops thought i was american and didnt want to let me enter without a visa. to make matters worse i had exceeded the no. days permitted in malawi and had to change it on my passport in pen (twice). but i made a cock up and it looked messed with.
 
eventually i got through and down the eastern side of the lake where  i cut across back into malawi/ blantyre. i stayed with vin diesel and his wife there. they were very hospitable and i saved a chicken from death by their dogs (long story).
thomas (vin diesel) went with me some of the way down towards the moz border and i crossed over the big railway bridge o ver the zambezi and got down to beira.
 
someone stole my ipod in beira and i continued down through ponto do oura and back to durbz....................


Vin Diesel is the name we gave Thomas the East German Optometrist with the truck and KTM. Super nice people.



Jenson Button does not spend money on shit, he build his own cell battery charger himself, somehow chooned GPS maps on his old Nokia phone and made his own Ipod holder from checkered plate. And he ate rice and drank water to save money. All of us been there and it's no skin off our backs we offered him beers but he eventually declined, moegoe, seker maar sleg gevoel.


LEATHERMAN AND SMALL SAW CAN MAKE YOU A GOOD TO GO IPOD POUCH.

The last day we left Monkey bay I gave him a 500ml oil I had left, he decided his bike needed more oil and overfilled the damn thing. Took him a good hour to suck it out with a thin tripper pipe  :D
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 12:13:05 pm by michnus »
 

Offline Gypsey

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Awesome trip report and brings back loads of memories, we were in Malawi in December too but in a landrover.  Camped under the mango tree at Fat Monkeys on our way up the lake but left when all the South African I think you refer to arrived.  On our way back home we partied in New Years @ Cool Runnings with James & Ted (p5 of your report).  When we left Cool Runnings they were also planning on moving on, guess though they didn't get too far seeing as they stopped @ Monkey bay  ;D
 

Offline michnus

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Cool Runnings is a really nice place to stay, we did for one evening on our way to Myoka. Did we missed you somehow at Fat Monkeys?

 


Offline RD

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Nope do you have details? Did you post on your ride report?

We stayed there for two days - look at day 11-13 on my ride report. When you there then the world outside becomes less important!
 

Offline Gypsey

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Yip we would have missed each other @ Fat Monkeys, I think we were there around the 20th - 24th before we moved further up the lake.  We didn't quite make it Nyika Plateau and instead got chowed by tseste flies at Vwashi marsh.  From there we come back down the lake, spent an idylic number of days at a spot called Makusi Beach which is south of Nkhata bay. And then sadly it was time to head back to the land of smoke and the grindstone.  Was a great 3,5 weeks however and Malawi will see us again.
 

Offline Gypsey

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We also had artwork added to our transport @ Fat Monkeys, we just had a bigger canvas to work with this time around  ;)
« Last Edit: September 01, 2011, 08:13:21 am by michnus »
 

Offline See Duiwel

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LEKKERRRRRRRR!
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Offline michnus

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Thanks RD will check it up, is it listed on T4A?

Gypsey the 25th we were sill in Lusaka waiting for a damn shock. Richard is the man that painted our bikes, he is quite an accomplished painter

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Thanks RD will check it up, is it listed on T4A?

Yes indeed, search Kande Beach with the Find - Features - Name function on T4A and it will direct you. S11 57 07.0, E034 07 19.4 +/- 58 km south of Nkatha Bay. It also have a nice peace of soft sand road leading there the last +/- 5kms which makes it a bit more unique.
 

Offline michnus

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Tanzania is calling!
« Reply #139 on: September 05, 2011, 03:44:08 pm »
Tanzania was calling and we had to get our asses off the beach and leave the paradise feeling behind. Us all were fighting Bongi fever. Eventually we had to concede the only way to get rid of Bongi fever was to get on the bikes and get outta paradise, the place was fast consuming our lust for travel.


REMEMBER THE FIRST RULE OF MUD, MUD MUST NEVER KNOW YOU ACTUALLY RIDING ON IT.

We got on the road with heavy rains predicted for our entire journey up to Tanzania. In the first town the GPS routed us through a market and the road suddenly ended in a muddy track that route through a busy wood market. Harold got out too late and dumped the bike into a ditch. The eager helpers broke off more stuff on his bike trying to get it out of the ditch than what the fall did in the first place.
The poor man was now without a rain suite, yes he lost it on his way to Myoka, and now his screen is in three pieces. Well at least half his face will be out off the wind.  :biggrin:


ALWAYS SOME FRIENDLY PEOPLE AROUND TO HELP A MAN OUT OF TROUBLE, PAYMENT TALK LATER.

Halfway between Nkatha bay and the Tanzania border we came across this place where, they proclaim to have the only and oldest natural tree branch hang bridge in Africa, the bridge apparently date back to early days of evolution. They say at one stage a hippo tried to cross but got stuck halfway through. This is also currently the only way across the river for the locals, so everything they buy have to go across this bridge.


MALAWI HANG BRIDGE

At the same place they have a small stuffy dirty smelling dung hut of a museum with only the front door offering light into the place of worship. The story goes that they had two gods, the one for a man and the other for a woman. The one looked like the "duiwel uit die kinder bybel" and the other one like some ugly thing with horse tail like nose hairs. Donno why they show the woman statue with the nose hair, and if woman ever did grow nose hair that long? Maybe it was a sexual thing in the past, who knows?!



These were the gods they prayed to and worshiped for rain and good fortune. On a question what happened to the gods why are they not praying for them anymore? Well, the man said, the Christians came to Malawi and taught us that these gods are no good, they are just statues. We must change to worship the Christian God and so we changed, but now the Muslims are also wanting us to change again. Go figure! As with Uganda it seems the biggest growing faith is Jehovah witnesses in Malawi.



We had to sleep over at Sangilo lodge just before the Malawi border with Tanzania and is owned by Mike a old pommy with the usual faded "I love me mom" and anchor tattoo's on the forearms. We were sitting having a beer when I noticed a sticker on the fridge with Ewan and Charley on it. The owner immediately said that they stayed over at his lodge when they did their Long Way down trip. So where did they sleep, I asked?  


EWAN AND CHARLIE LEFT THEIR MARK

The last two bungalows next to yours was the answer from Mike the owner of the lodge. I had to go look, I could not miss the opportunity to stand at the same place legends walked and slept, and as I stood on the deck of the bungalow I could feel their presence, itís a hair raising experience, seriously it's spiritual!  I felt my skill level increase just standing there, it was stronger than religion! And then I heard it, a soft voice said, "may the force be with you" The others said i was just drunk, but I know better.  :biggrin:


THE BUNGALLOW CHARLIE AND EWAN STAYED IN WHILE TRAVELLING DOWN AFRICA. GO THERE IF YOU NEED THEIR SPIRITS TO GLOW UPON YOU FOR MORE SKILLS

 
THEY LIKE THEIR VIEWS OF THE LAKE EVEN WHILE THEY DOING THE LOO THING, BUILD THE LOO HIGHER.

The place is a bit expensive but the food is good and the service you would expect from such an pricey establishment. I had to repair yet another puncture and Mike even offered to help. It seems quite a few bikers stay over with him.


FIXING PUNCTURES AGAIN, TUBELESS, FFS, TUBELESS!!


THIS IS MY LAKE, I AM THE BOSS, LIFE IS GOOD, NOW LEAVE ME!!



The next day on our way to the border we came across the birth place of a dugout. As fascinating as it may seen a boat carved and chiseled out of an entire tree. The sad part of this is the fact that's another old tree falling and currently Malawi is running out of old trees as most are being used for dugouts.


MALAWI LAKE DUGOUT

The prices of dugouts are also on the increase. I had a chat with some of the locals and asked whether we can help them look for better priced boats they can use that is cheaper to run and maintain and is environmentally friendly than the current option, as its unsustainable. It takes them around 2 months to complete a dugout and will according to type of wood sell from R2500-00 to R8000-00 per boat.

HELLO TANZANIA!






DEPENDING ON YOUR TASTE THEY MANUFACTURE THESE OVERSIZE STUFFED LOUNGE SUITES, GOOD MARKETING STRATEGY, STACK E'M HIGH AND SELL E'M CHEAP!

It is strange how people and cultures differ between the countries in Africa. Every time we rode into a new country everything changes, the people, the way they do business, their cultures and life style. With all the cross border migration between Africans since the beginning of time one would have thought it would have even out things between people to the extend that cultures and lifestyles would be pretty much on par between countries.



Tanzania is pikipiki besotted, Malawi and SA not much. Tuk-Tuk's do duty as taxi's allover in Tanzania, Ethiopia, Zambia, Uganda but not anywhere else. Most Africans love eating from street cafe's, SA it's not a big thing. Even in Malawi it's not big.



In SA we have upcoming middle class and it's evident from the Transkei as subsistence farming is getting less and less. It's easier to farm with cattle. Money get send from the working class in the cities to the rural people who just buy maize at the dealers.
In Malawi and other African countries farming are still the only way of getting food on the table. It's a simplistic view of looking at things, but you get the picture.


NONNE WYN! SAL DIT WERK MET VAMPIRES, WANT DIS DONNERS DUUR?


FROM TANZANIA UP IF YOU ASK FOR SAUSAGE YOU GET THINGS THAT MORE RESEMBLE A 60 YEAR OLD SANDTON STUCK UP WOMAN'S HANDS THAT HAD TO MANY BOTOCKS INJECTIONS IN HER LIFE. WRINKLED UP VIENA'S COOKED IN OLD OIL AT LEAST IT HELPS SETTLE AN UPSET CONSTITUTION.


THE RULES OF THE LODGE NUMBER 5 AND 6. LOST IN TRANSLATION?

Tanzanians are a jovial loud bunch, very friendly and seems they all have too much of the extrovert gene in them. They spend time on the street till late at night talking, drinking and just being social with the rest of the folke in their small towns.


 It was a wonderful surprise when we figured out we were able to stay in cheap bed and breakfast establishments for less than what we paid for camping in SA, Namibia and Zambia. We stayed over in a small town on the way to Dar Es Salaam, the managers name is Sarafina and a very nice and super friendly girl. The place was brand new, with Chinese fittings everywhere. It's as if they loaded the entire building in pieces in China and shipped it to Tanzania.

We eventually paid less than R100 for two people for the room and breakfast.


OILCOM? MORE LIKE CAMELCOM! THERE'S A MILLION NEW FUEL COMPANIES OPENING UP IN AFRICA, MOST OF THEM CHOSE NAMES THAT LEFT US CHUCKLING IN OUR LIDS.


WATER AND FUEL DELIVERY BUSINESS. NOT MUCH BUT EVERYBODY MAKES SOME MONEY.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2011, 04:05:24 pm by michnus »