LiveInTheOutdoors
Race Dog
I am going to start the inaugural post here 
- with something that I posted in BikeSa.... I think its particularly pertinent to our sports, and worth a reprint for guidelines. Please note that all pressures quoted are for warm tyres... as thats the way they should be, by the time you get to your destination.
Cheers!
I want to start off by saying that I am not the final authority on this by a long shot. But I have ridden a fair amount on all kinds of terrain except snow, and can say what has worked for my riding partners and I.
Having said that, I learn from people all around me, and I have learnt that the biggest mouths arent necessarily the ones to listen to - watch those who can ride, and follow their opinions.
Henceforth! I will make a statement that will go down like a lead balloon. Jimmy Lewis says: when you know what you are doing on sand, tyre pressures dont make a big difference at all. Yippee!
But for absolute newcomers, heres my advice for various terrains, pics to follow. Please note that riding partners depicted are pretty experienced riders - from top 10 GS challenge finisher to BMW instructor to ex racers etc. I am the noob
1) Sand
tubeless tyres - down to even 0.7 bars
tubed tyres - 650cc class - down to 1 bar, even a bit less, spin that rear wheel with impunity, no rim locks
tubed tyred - 650cc class - loaded bike - down to 1.2-1.4 bar. To protect the rim from sharp hidden objects on trail. Weight referred to, is up to 60kgs on rear of bike, excluding yourself.
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - 1.0-1.4 bar - watch that with all the extra power that you dont rip your valve stem off.
2) Mud
tubeless tyres - 0.8 - 1.0 bar as above - watch for sharp metal objects, sometimes concealed in the gunk
tubed tyres - 650cc class. Will do well with 1 - 1.4 bar
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - no experience yet
3) Rocks
contrary to popular opinion, I was taught to deflate. I have never banged up a rim before. I weigh around 100kgs with gear on. I dont ride too slow over objects either. Rim was Behr rim, on BMW Dakar.
tubeless tyres - 1.0 bar.
tubed tyres - 650cc class - 1.4-1.7 bar
tubed tyre - 750cc and above - 1.5-1.9
4) Hard Dirt roads
tubeless tyres - 1.4-1.7 bar
tubed tyres - 650cc class - 1.3 - 1.7 bar
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - 1.3 - 1.9 bar depending on activity and speed and weight
As a side note, I have ridden with up to 60kgs on back in each of the 650cc tubed tyres variations above, and never had a snakebite puncture or pinch ever. Never dented a rim. Didnt ride too slow either. My mate has ridden with more than that on a tubeless setup, same experience. And his 1150GS Adv weighs considerably more than the Dakar.
5) Tar Road
IMO, its always best to stick to recommended manufacturer guidelines - and make sure to check your pressure biweekly. Also remember to harden up those tyres when getting loaded on the tar. And I aint talkin drinking!
6) Heat Cycling
Heat cycling is a simple thing - its designed to make the rubber on your knobblies in particular, harder - which makes it last longer on whatever surface you are going to be doing. The tradeoff for this is a "Less sticky" tyre - which is what some want anyhow.
For knobblies and their cost, I suggest heat cycling in the beginning. Experience amongst many riders is an increase in tyre life. When getting the knob on, inflate to proper road pressure. Go for a nice ride at normal speeds (100-140) for a collective 10-20kays. Warm that sucker up. Then pull over, have a drink or what have you, and let it go COLD again. Repeat cycle up to 8 - 10 times. Your pocket book will thank you.
Heres some pics of the bikes in action on the pressure guidelines above.
I rode this sand with pillion on the back and backpack with tools, water, gear. No problemo. Stand on pegs, as does pillion, lekker. I have had up to 85kgs (pillion with gear) on back. No problem. Didnt get stuck once, unti a very steep and short major uphill. Dune riding with pillion? No worries.
My rear tyre that day, cleaned up
Only puncture on loaded adventure (rider, gear, pillion, gear), camping gear for days - in over 15000 kays
African Twin - and Dakar on loose gravel, hard dirt, quite technical at times. Dakar with pillion
Going through silted bog, speed and skill is key here, not tyre pressure. I came off shortly after this
We all got stuck here at this junction. Just zero traction. Bikes just sank
I made it through this soft sticky stuff, it took constant throttle, standing up with pillion and acceleration. Steer with feet.
Closeup
Picture of rear tyre - this was hard dirt, with ruts, corrugations etc. Into the Hell
Rocks - loose rocks. Up to grapefruit size rocks, very loose. lots of small rocks
Mud - have videos if someone can help me hosting them
Gradient is not exaggerated here. Had to keep bike in gear to stop it rolling forward off kickstand
Rocks on big bike. Here, momentum, good constant accelaration, bike bouncing everywhere was key. Confidence
My favourite rocks shot. This is the sort of thing I rode on Dakar, no problem, never bent rim ever
Hope that helps. You also learn to be soft on the bike and help it absorb shocks and difficulties. I am not talking about picking the easiest line. I believe its often best to pick the most difficult line as you go when youa re confident as it helps you learn things you wouldnt learn otherwise. And its fun
Enjoy
- with something that I posted in BikeSa.... I think its particularly pertinent to our sports, and worth a reprint for guidelines. Please note that all pressures quoted are for warm tyres... as thats the way they should be, by the time you get to your destination.Cheers!
I want to start off by saying that I am not the final authority on this by a long shot. But I have ridden a fair amount on all kinds of terrain except snow, and can say what has worked for my riding partners and I.
Having said that, I learn from people all around me, and I have learnt that the biggest mouths arent necessarily the ones to listen to
- watch those who can ride, and follow their opinions.Henceforth! I will make a statement that will go down like a lead balloon. Jimmy Lewis says: when you know what you are doing on sand, tyre pressures dont make a big difference at all. Yippee!
But for absolute newcomers, heres my advice for various terrains, pics to follow. Please note that riding partners depicted are pretty experienced riders - from top 10 GS challenge finisher to BMW instructor to ex racers etc. I am the noob
1) Sand
tubeless tyres - down to even 0.7 bars
tubed tyres - 650cc class - down to 1 bar, even a bit less, spin that rear wheel with impunity, no rim locks
tubed tyred - 650cc class - loaded bike - down to 1.2-1.4 bar. To protect the rim from sharp hidden objects on trail. Weight referred to, is up to 60kgs on rear of bike, excluding yourself.
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - 1.0-1.4 bar - watch that with all the extra power that you dont rip your valve stem off.
2) Mud
tubeless tyres - 0.8 - 1.0 bar as above - watch for sharp metal objects, sometimes concealed in the gunk
tubed tyres - 650cc class. Will do well with 1 - 1.4 bar
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - no experience yet
3) Rocks
contrary to popular opinion, I was taught to deflate. I have never banged up a rim before. I weigh around 100kgs with gear on. I dont ride too slow over objects either. Rim was Behr rim, on BMW Dakar.
tubeless tyres - 1.0 bar.
tubed tyres - 650cc class - 1.4-1.7 bar
tubed tyre - 750cc and above - 1.5-1.9
4) Hard Dirt roads
tubeless tyres - 1.4-1.7 bar
tubed tyres - 650cc class - 1.3 - 1.7 bar
tubed tyres - 750cc and above - 1.3 - 1.9 bar depending on activity and speed and weight
As a side note, I have ridden with up to 60kgs on back in each of the 650cc tubed tyres variations above, and never had a snakebite puncture or pinch ever. Never dented a rim. Didnt ride too slow either. My mate has ridden with more than that on a tubeless setup, same experience. And his 1150GS Adv weighs considerably more than the Dakar.
5) Tar Road
IMO, its always best to stick to recommended manufacturer guidelines - and make sure to check your pressure biweekly. Also remember to harden up those tyres when getting loaded on the tar. And I aint talkin drinking!
6) Heat Cycling
Heat cycling is a simple thing - its designed to make the rubber on your knobblies in particular, harder - which makes it last longer on whatever surface you are going to be doing. The tradeoff for this is a "Less sticky" tyre - which is what some want anyhow.
For knobblies and their cost, I suggest heat cycling in the beginning. Experience amongst many riders is an increase in tyre life. When getting the knob on, inflate to proper road pressure. Go for a nice ride at normal speeds (100-140) for a collective 10-20kays. Warm that sucker up. Then pull over, have a drink or what have you, and let it go COLD again. Repeat cycle up to 8 - 10 times. Your pocket book will thank you.
Heres some pics of the bikes in action on the pressure guidelines above.
I rode this sand with pillion on the back and backpack with tools, water, gear. No problemo. Stand on pegs, as does pillion, lekker. I have had up to 85kgs (pillion with gear) on back. No problem. Didnt get stuck once, unti a very steep and short major uphill. Dune riding with pillion? No worries.
My rear tyre that day, cleaned up
Only puncture on loaded adventure (rider, gear, pillion, gear), camping gear for days - in over 15000 kays
African Twin - and Dakar on loose gravel, hard dirt, quite technical at times. Dakar with pillion
Going through silted bog, speed and skill is key here, not tyre pressure. I came off shortly after this
We all got stuck here at this junction. Just zero traction. Bikes just sank
I made it through this soft sticky stuff, it took constant throttle, standing up with pillion and acceleration. Steer with feet.
Closeup
Picture of rear tyre - this was hard dirt, with ruts, corrugations etc. Into the Hell
Rocks - loose rocks. Up to grapefruit size rocks, very loose. lots of small rocks
Mud - have videos if someone can help me hosting them
Gradient is not exaggerated here. Had to keep bike in gear to stop it rolling forward off kickstand
Rocks on big bike. Here, momentum, good constant accelaration, bike bouncing everywhere was key. Confidence
My favourite rocks shot. This is the sort of thing I rode on Dakar, no problem, never bent rim ever
Hope that helps. You also learn to be soft on the bike and help it absorb shocks and difficulties. I am not talking about picking the easiest line. I believe its often best to pick the most difficult line as you go when youa re confident as it helps you learn things you wouldnt learn otherwise. And its fun
Enjoy
