Author Topic: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's) (Read 36567 times)

volroom · « **Reply #680 on:** March 15, 2012, 07:32:09 am »

Update: figured out why the chain was wanting to come off the front sprocket. There was a rubber flat O-ring (to dampen the noise it seems) between the retainer plate and the front sprocket. Going one tooth less in front meant I had to decrease size of that O-ring otherwise it would do exactly that: push the chain off the sprocket every half cycle. So, gonna make some O-rings myself

Note should you want to change front sprocket size on old DR. the retainer plate needs to be modified as well as the O-ring

Veemax · « **Reply #681 on:** March 15, 2012, 08:01:09 am »

Science prevails huh !!! Well sorted !

Veemax · « **Reply #682 on:** March 15, 2012, 08:06:05 am »

I have in my hand , Locktite 5699 , heat resistant to 329 deg C , come here brand new little leaky oil return pipe O-ring , get past THIS !!!!

Damn, this stupid joint is basically just a poor design ... I can find no flaw in the metal surfaces , nothing skew, nothing rough, nothing out of place ....

" improved adhesion to oily surfaces and three times more oil resistamt than generic silicones " it says.

Third time lucky

volroom · « **Reply #683 on:** March 16, 2012, 07:03:26 am »

VM, you once said that the old DR got a 150W generator, that would provide 12.5amps of current (probably at something like 4000 revs or something). My compressor pulls 10amps. Want to fit cigarette lighter unit to the DR so I can inflate when I've deflated or when I fix a puncture.

Where did you read 150W? I went through the manual - don't see anything? (the gs got a 700W alternator)

Veemax · « **Reply #684 on:** March 16, 2012, 07:43:17 am »

Hey Volroom ! Workshop manual Chapter 8 under detailed specs you will find 150W for '93 and 200W for '94+'95 , it's in there !

A pomp is a pomp ou pal , every man needs a good pomp , even a bad pomp is better than no pomp at all.

volroom · « **Reply #685 on:** March 16, 2012, 10:38:33 am »

Quote from: Veemax on March 16, 2012, 07:43:17 am

Hey Volroom ! Workshop manual Chapter 8 under detailed specs you will find 150W for '93 and 200W for '94+'95 , it's in there !

A pomp is a pomp ou pal , every man needs a good pomp , even a bad pomp is better than no pomp at all.

haha! thx, seems I don't have in the manual I've got. You can't perhaps send me that one you've got? that's great, will get the cigarette lighter socket connected to the battery soon and show pics. Good if you want specific pressure in tyres when doing technical. can't wait....
dyno postponed again until next week..so the week after that

Veemax · « **Reply #686 on:** March 17, 2012, 11:14:38 am »

Locktite 5699 is THE Gasket maker. Hooray, I have FINALLY beaten that oil return pipe weep. You really just wet the surfaces with the stuff , use it in place of grease to lube things up to shove it in ... if you know what I mean.

( Use excess silicone at your PERIL ... and also.....have the discipline to not touch the bike until full cure ....just in case you pushed up a blob inside... you don't want this stuff moving around inside an engine )

YAYYY , I have honestly nothing left to do on my bike now , except ride it. I'll be a while before I wear out the front pads , at which time I'll install new pads and my new disk rotor together.

The more you ride this bike, the more it grows on you. It's temperament is not suited to chugging in traffic , it's only downfall , but if you adapt and keep the mill spinning free at 3000 rpm and your carb is on the money, it's really not a problem.

It sure likes to be worked hard , it ain't no XT 500 , this is a bike for open roads and spirited riding. Being a low-value, tenacious, battle tested machine ... ride it like you STOLE it !

Now come come , lets see if you can get yours ready, come Spring it'll be great to have a gathering !

Wildcoast · « **Reply #687 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:30:39 am »

How about a test run on 31 March Volroom?

Yeah Veemax my stand seems short or maybe my bike just has the shocks jacked up to the max, however I like the angle of heel it enhances stability when parked to windward

Veemax · « **Reply #688 on:** March 18, 2012, 09:33:54 am »

A Diabolical luggage system is forming in my mind ....105mm PVC pipe..... it / they will look like the smoke launchers on a Ratel .... light weight, very durable , and unlike any luggage system, you screw the cap on .... ha, 6 bar pressure ! Ubiquitous parts catalog from the local plumbing supplies ...and no sharp corners to break your bones .... mmmmm .......thinks......

volroom · « **Reply #689 on:** March 18, 2012, 01:07:36 pm »

Would like to see that luggage VM! I bought an ATG bag from Michnus but might not be enough for week long trip...31 March!! yes!! I will be finished!!

Great things comes to those who wait..

Next week dyno. Chain sorted, putting on wheels today, sprockets and chain are on. Screen going on today. I'm about to talk to Groenie about the crashbars, bashplate and handle bar raisers..haha

Wildcoast · « **Reply #690 on:** March 18, 2012, 05:13:29 pm »

My namib rig will be a "goose tube" where my other pipe went, for tools , a small US army "bum bag" strapped to my carrier rack with spare tubes and emergency walk out kit, roll bag with tent, sleeping bag etc on top of that and a set of small soft panniers for other stuff, plus a 5L Jerry can for water, over and above my hydration packs 2L with my rain gear in it as well and my 1L water bottle.

volroom · « **Reply #691 on:** March 19, 2012, 09:22:54 am »

Aaarggghhhh!! that sounds Awesome WC. Would love to go on such en excursion. Got compact tent, might need to look into a more compact sleeping bag though, i'd take along jerry can with 5L of fuel as I don't have a moerse tank like yours. Got first aid kit (small one), hydration pack (3L), will be fitting my Goose tube soon, got extra tubes and puncture kit

To date: screen fitted (had to modify screen slightly for indicators - take note when buying dakar screen), fork legs got new oil, headlight got OSRAM nightbreaker plus bulb (much better..), new proper oil, sparkplugs, air filter element, valve clearance set, balancer chain adjusted, zorst got new packing - packed to the brim, exhaust not leaking anymore thx to gasket and gumgum, New tyres (Mitas E09 and T63) and heavy duty Heidi tubeson, new sprockets and DID VX chain on, fitted net material over a moerse gaping hole in the airbox (I made it bigger than shown before), might be getting hand guards soon (Zeta), will be getting crashbars, bashplate and handle bar raisers as well and I think that ..is that..sometime this week it'll be dynoed - it is running lean I think, having increased the size of the airbox hole greatly, getting moerse hot..might also look into DIY LED spots soon. Fitting a cigarette lighter socket for compressor this week also.

Need to get it to the dyno in centurion this week.I won't stand a chance of burning valves? till what throttle opening does idling jet play a role? Cause we decreases the size of the indling jet significantly, but increased size of main jet, and slightly changed needle setting to more rich also

Veemax · « **Reply #692 on:** March 19, 2012, 09:37:34 am »

Hey Volroom when you put it all together , you've been a very busy guy ! Sounds brilliant. Dammit that deal you got is amazing.

An open airbox won't affect the idle circuit, no worries there. My guess is that you will end up with a much raised jet needle, and a main jet in the order of a 150.

Do yourself a favour , for part throttle mixture , try to get it exact up there at altitude, my reasoning is thus: It will be a little lean at lower altitude. Thumpers wear needles. It will therefore wear IN , and not so much wear OUT ! Most rides you do will be DOWN from where you live, right ?

I'm here at sea level, so I set max lean I can get away with. My logic is opposite. When I head off on a ride, I'm heading UP !

So also, my carb setting is set to wear IN and not OUT ! When I leave the city and head inland my bike comes into The Zone.

There is something satisfying about knowing your bike will get healthier as it beds down, or goes off on an adventure...

Or maybe I just over think sh^t , and should, like, duuuuude, chill OUT man !

volroom · « **Reply #693 on:** March 19, 2012, 09:47:19 am »

Thx VM, so getting what your saying, I should get it spot on so that when heading off closer to sea level the engine would run a little lean purely for the preservation of needle? running slightly leaner won't be problem would it? just better mileage..

Veemax · « **Reply #694 on:** March 19, 2012, 01:25:06 pm »

Uh oh , I'd better be careful what I post now. There is this newbie member Goshawk stalking me.

You gotta watch out for these females ...

volroom · « **Reply #695 on:** March 19, 2012, 03:26:33 pm »

my front suspension still a big soggy. Not very bad, but would like it slightly stiffer.
I've asked before, the manual says you can give the front forks some pressure: 2.5bar.
has anyone done this?Thinking that the engineers must have thought of something when they made the front suspension as they did. I'd guess when the springs starts to lose free length, you can compensate with pressurized air?

Veemax · « **Reply #696 on:** March 19, 2012, 03:43:22 pm »

Haven't used pressure in forks for 1000 years, or so it seems ... it's too darn finnicky. Are you sure it's SAG that you're wanting to correct ?

If it's under damped , simply concoct a higher viscosity fork oil ....

Suspension tuning is a tricky thing , but there are basic rules of thumb. The starting point is the correct spring preload ... the normal starting point for forks is one-third travel in sag with a full gas tank and your good self on board....

volroom · « **Reply #697 on:** March 19, 2012, 04:25:56 pm »

Hmmm. interesting. I added ATF for fork oil. Don't know how the weight compares. What fork oil would be more dense? can you recommend?

Veemax · « **Reply #698 on:** March 19, 2012, 05:06:30 pm »

Now you are playing to my core competence as a retired inkmaker : ) , I used to ( sadly past tense ) have access to very advanced viscometry equipment ...

ATF is very thin , little wonder your bike feels bouncy .... spec is for SAE10W.....

Try straight 10W pukka fork oil before doing anything else ?

You can blend 10 W with 15 W , even use gear + fork oil blends if you need to get really serious !

There are oils and oils, without advanced equipment to test them , you can be all over the place within the SAME so-called rating.

I found one manufactures 5 is thicker than another 10 !

But foam and temperature in the real world changes everything in the dynamic environment of a motorcycle.

One crude way to measure viscosity is via efflux time through a flow cup, such as a Zahn or Shell cup, but that is special lab equipment, so alternatively you can make a crude flow cup from an upside down bottle with a hole in the lid and a stopwatch. At least in a crude way you can quantify with some degree of science whether an oil is thicker or thinner than another.

ATF makes good fork oil , but it's not the best solution in the modern world of specialised designed oils , nor is it likely going to behave like a purpose formulated 10W .... especially in an offroad application!

Wildcoast · « **Reply #699 on:** March 19, 2012, 07:34:35 pm »

Agreed, gooi 10w like the manual says, you in for a 200k test ride Volroom? 31st of March