Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)

[Veemax]

How is the nozzle opening for oval , and the slide for wear ?

[theotherguy]

watching with interest.

[Wildcoast]

A few minor furrows on the slide, alot better than the old one, besides that it's almost brand spanking new 

[Veemax]

TOG , really like your bike collection : ) , how many km had this carb on when you displaced it with a pumper ? My 08DR has only 13 000km on it , I was wondering what life one can get out of a BST before it becomes MOEG ?

I had a K&N on my new DR , some inlet mods , header weld grind , main jet a 150. After researching how much shit goes right through a K&N I tossed it out and put the OEM foam back ! I could swear there is little difference. No science, no dyno, sorry.

Ja, anyone wanna K&N ? You can HAVE it.

Don't trust a filter you can SEE thru man !

But the extra airbox hole, and screen removal, and zorst and jet and needle clip vroetel, really does wake up the new DR.

I am sitting on the fence wondering if my hole saw and my old DR airbox should not become better aquanted : ) , however, it's quite nice for a change to have a factory bike. All my bikes are Vroeteled . My best experience was getting +23 bhp from a stock Bandit without touching the motor, that was fun !

[Wildcoast]

I was actually thinking of drilling a few holes extra in the airbox , or making another beeeeeeg hole and fitting two snorkles, problem is Suzuki does not make snorkles anymore 

[theotherguy]

i checked on the Ganjamobile thread,  and see i replace the carb on 3 june 2010.
had the bike for 1 year at that stage.   bike is on 46000km at the moment.
i'd guess about 15-20K km on the carb at that stage - not really sure though...

[theotherguy]

I was actually thinking of drilling a few holes extra in the airbox , or making another beeeeeeg hole and fitting two snorkles, problem is Suzuki does not make snorkles anymore 

i think i've got another snorkel...

[Wildcoast]

I wonder if the post96 will fit the hole for the pre-96? My old snorkle is missing so I'm after 2 of them, More air and can still Fjord , that's my reasoning anyway.

[Wildcoast]

Good morning all, spent Saturday fiddling with Volroom's carb, certainly learned alot about the BST! Think he needs to fine tune a bit (lovely bike for what he paid for it WOW!)

Was looking at the pre-96 DR thread on Advrider and I noticed that they mentioned clutch slipping in 4th and 5th gear seems to be inherent in these older bikes, can anyone comment on that , what will the fix be? (my bike does this at the top of the rev range in higher gears)

Also noticed on e-bay the aftermarket fork springs advertised for the older DR's is the same as the KLR 2008 and up?

Veemax did you take any pics of your fix of the non-starting issue? Would like to prevent before I need to roadside cure 

[DeepBass9]

Good morning all, spent Saturday fiddling with Volroom's carb, certainly learned alot about the BST! Think he needs to fine tune a bit (lovely bike for what he paid for it WOW!)

Was looking at the pre-96 DR thread on Advrider and I noticed that they mentioned clutch slipping in 4th and 5th gear seems to be inherent in these older bikes, can anyone comment on that , what will the fix be? (my bike does this at the top of the rev range in higher gears)

Also noticed on e-bay the aftermarket fork springs advertised for the older DR's is the same as the KLR 2008 and up?

Veemax did you take any pics of your fix of the non-starting issue? Would like to prevent before I need to roadside cure 

My clutch doesn't slip there? I could be a worn clutch basket? The clutch plates wear notches into the clutch basket and don't disengage properly.

[Wildcoast]

So my best bet is to pull out the clutch and look see? Oh gonnas this is going to be interesting to say the least.

[Veemax]

My mate who turned 50 said he's found my cell phone lurking in the side pocket of the wine carrier I left at his place , battery now flat, and his son says it bleeped a few times before it died ... he did say there are messages from "Cxxx - DR "

Ooops.

I'd better fetch it today !

Glad to see there was a lot of action on the weekend, anyway, WD migration looks good and we are Bahhhhck !!

[Wildcoast]

Yeah Volroom called you to see what carb set you had, I replaced his jets , main and Idle to stock and gave him an adjustable needle , seems his bike was restricted

[Veemax]

Let me play catch-up ....

Starting issue was a loose cable joint to the starter motor, 1/6th turn with 10mm spanner ....but then I cleaned the contacts and did it proper.

Clutch slip , I had clutch slip too, refer/search back to proper assembly of those steel rings , if not that then plates are either worn or contaminated with slip additive from using the wrong oil. I put in new plates and my clutch is settling in nicely from being obviously a little grabbly at first.

My Master Mechanic friends says those notches one often sees in the basket thrust edges, are not known to impact clutch slipping ....

And lastly, the old needle does not have multiple clip positions but some washers from Builders Whorehouse provide a neat solution to tweaking ...upwards at any rate.

Did you guys discover any badly out float heights in your work on the weekend ?

[Wildcoast]

Floats looked good, his pipe leaks at join between header and tail can, we put in new plugs , drilled out plug for mixture screw put needle on 4th clip, got the bike idling smoothly, I rode it and it seemed pretty good, only up to 4th (ran out of road) Maybe he should do valves, timing chain and fix pipe before fine tuning the carb?

[Veemax]

DEFINITELY time to do tappets , you need to know those are right , as a top top priority ...always the Big Unknown when you buy a used bike !

Imagine a riding valve or clearance so large the cam timing is all bent out of shape ? You have to start here.

[Wildcoast]

Wish me luck today, thinking of doing valves, balancer/timing chain (if thats the correct term) and pulling out the clutch for a look see, what did your new clutch set you back? what did you replace? any special tools needed? Will I need new gaskets/seals before I start?

[volroom]

Hey guys, yeah -we had interesting weekend. I want to do the tappets - is there a doc that describes how you do it somewhere? I've done it before on the XL, but LOL I set the valves when the piston on it's way down for intake stroke, not power stroke if you can understand that.... I just want to know how I can be sure that the piston position is absolutely right, and then the valve clearances pls

I'm going to sort out the exaust before I start with the carb. When I do start (if needed), I need a list of mods to the carb that I should do - like: "change this first, if that doesn't work - change this, if that doesn't work change that"

When I've got at the moment is the following:
Good low down torque but bad top end torque/power

What did we do?
Changed the idling jet from 52.5 to 42.5

Now on this.... some oke told me that typically these carb's are set up for sea level - so running a bit rich in the highlands (because there is less oxygen up here than down there necessitating less fuel). He said exactly that: maybe the low down grunt is caused by lessening the fuel in the low revs - changing idling jet from 52.5 - 42.5

I changed the main jet from 137.5 to 140
We made the needle (clip settings) more rich

AND there is less power at top.

My question: can these results be due to enriching the mixture too much at higher revs - flooding the carb, less power?

BTW, thx Wildcoast for helping out and giving me the modifiable needle and other idling jet! appreciate.  

[volroom]

Wish me luck today, thinking of doing valves, balancer/timing chain (if thats the correct term) and pulling out the clutch for a look see, what did your new clutch set you back? what did you replace? any special tools needed? Will I need new gaskets/seals before I start?

WC, do you have your pipe then?

[Veemax]

Sorry I can't give detailed breakdown. What happened was I did one long trip to validate the motor, and all seemed fine, then suddenly it turned oilburner with one tank of gas. ( I had the same experience on my KLR , instant overnight oh-shit-something-is-very-wrong-in-the-bore-now-suddenly ! )

Both scenarios direct relate to engine damage consequential to either air filter falling OFF unnoticed ( eeek ) on a dirt ride , or the tell-tale of a home-made botch job airfilter !

Anyway, as soon as the mill chewed 500ml/1000km I committed to a total top-end rebuild , so clutch, timing chain, bore, valves, all the polymer seals, etc etc, were done in one big project , which I have to admit, I wimped out on and gave to the Awesome Mr Claus Tyrzyk in Killarney Gardens to take care of. The final bill was in the order of R8000.

The parts we tried to source directly, but just like the rebuild on my wifes 650 Savage , it turned out that Suzuki's prices were not bad ( remember, I am a recovering BMW / KTM owner ! )

We placed a consolidated order on Suzuki SA and the parts arrived from Japan in about 2 weeks, good service for a bike nearly 20 I'd say.

You have SUCH a good deal on the purchase price of that bike , that you must be prepared to spend a few more grand to make it LEKKER !!!

It took some willpower not to intercept that scoot and pull it out from under you for myself , when I went to see it !

Clutch plates are a little over R100 each I think, the steel ones are around R90 if you have any warped ones.

The only rip-off parts were valve stem seals , but then a huge markup on a small item can go unnoticed and not worth the sweat.

Cam chain is R400-R450 but your chain should be good, balancer chains don't really take strain and last the distance.

I'd do the valves and balancer chain and clutch , get the carb close, and take it for a serious ride to confirm the bore is in spec , then build a bike around a good engine.

Whats the condition of the air filter ?