Author Topic: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's) (Read 35972 times)

DeepBass9 · « **Reply #440 on:** January 25, 2012, 09:58:27 am »

I use Magnatec 10W40 in all my Suzis, seems to to the trick.

Veemax · « **Reply #441 on:** January 25, 2012, 01:06:26 pm »

Here in CT Craig's buy's in 200L barrels of Putoline 10W50 , you pitch up with your own can and buy 5L for R200 I think. Anyway, it makes a lot of sense so I've shifted in that direction now.

I've never managed to wear out a bike so all the oil hype to me is not worthy of too much consideration ! Rather be kind to you engine when it's cold, attend to your airfilter, relax, put in a reasonable quality oil as per spec, and ride the bloody thing !

Mostly ALL the engine wear happens from cold, attend to that, and your bike will thank you.

It's all to do with Fluid Wedge but then we need to dust off the textbooks. Um. No.

volroom · « **Reply #442 on:** January 25, 2012, 01:19:00 pm »

Quote from: DeepBass9 on January 25, 2012, 09:58:27 am

I use Magnatec 10W40 in all my Suzis, seems to to the trick.

that might be an idea....thx!

volroom · « **Reply #443 on:** January 25, 2012, 03:11:10 pm »

The plugs I put in says 2120 D8EA
The plug that I got from suzuki says: DPR8EA9

i think that these plugs might be interchangeable: 8 followed by EA for both (both NGK)

volroom · « **Reply #444 on:** January 25, 2012, 08:08:13 pm »

QUESTION: How do I know whether the carb is set too rich or lean? I need to know, because if it is lean I might burn valves. I have no idea how it is set at the moment, but something is not lekka. Today it felt asif petrol was finished, but it wasn't. I don't know. Please give me same practical advice on how to figure out whether to problem is too much petrol or too little. Pretty pls

Veemax, do you know what jets you are running currently? stock needle?

lecap · « **Reply #445 on:** January 26, 2012, 11:01:08 am »

Quote from: Veemax on January 25, 2012, 01:06:26 pm

Here in CT Craig's buy's in 200L barrels of Putoline 10W50 , you pitch up with your own can and buy 5L for R200 I think. Anyway, it makes a lot of sense so I've shifted in that direction now.

At that price it's most likely 20W50.
10W50 spec is not achievable with cheaper semi synthetic base stock unless you use tons of viscosity modifiers (which you don't want to)
Means even itf it is 10W50 I would think twice before buying it. There is a reason why a good JASO MA SAE10W40 retails for around R70 and 10W50 for R100 or more.

D8EA and DPR8EA9 are not identical and not interchangeable either.

I do not recommend experimenting with non standard heat value plugs and even less with non standard type plug unless it's either a ground electrode variant of the same type plug (Example: CR10E is the single ground electrode type in DR650SE. You could substitute a CR10EK twin ground electrode variant which in theory should give you a longer plug service life. Since it's more expensive too you can just as well forget about it) or it's a centre electrode variant plug of the same type (Iridium plug for example).

Wildcoast · « **Reply #446 on:** January 26, 2012, 11:27:17 am »

Quote from: volroom on January 25, 2012, 08:08:13 pm

QUESTION: How do I know whether the carb is set too rich or lean? I need to know, because if it is lean I might burn valves. I have no idea how it is set at the moment, but something is not lekka. Today it felt asif petrol was finished, but it wasn't. I don't know. Please give me same practical advice on how to figure out whether to problem is too much petrol or too little. Pretty pls

Veemax, do you know what jets you are running currently? stock needle?

Pull the carb and put her back to how she was

grego · « **Reply #447 on:** January 26, 2012, 11:54:50 am »

Quote from: lecap on January 26, 2012, 11:01:08 am

Quote from: Veemax on January 25, 2012, 01:06:26 pm
Here in CT Craig's buy's in 200L barrels of Putoline 10W50 , you pitch up with your own can and buy 5L for R200 I think. Anyway, it makes a lot of sense so I've shifted in that direction now.

At that price it's most likely 20W50.
10W50 spec is not achievable with cheaper semi synthetic base stock unless you use tons of viscosity modifiers (which you don't want to)
Means even itf it is 10W50 I would think twice before buying it. There is a reason why a good JASO MA SAE10W40 retails for around R70 and 10W50 for R100 or more.

makro sells castrol power1, fully synthetic, JASO MA SAE10W50... R69.95 a litre

Wildcoast · « **Reply #448 on:** January 26, 2012, 01:02:56 pm »

When doing valve clearance, how do you work out wich one is the compression stroke?

Wildcoast · « **Reply #449 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:18:28 am »

Got the dash story sorted out finally....

theotherguy · « **Reply #450 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:27:56 am »

lekker unit, the vapor.
had one on my klr.

Wildcoast · « **Reply #451 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:34:45 am »

Now to figure out where all the wires go

theotherguy · « **Reply #452 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:35:43 am »

Quote from: WILDCOAST on January 27, 2012, 08:34:45 am

Now to figure out where all the wires go

it's actually pretty simple, they're all labelled.
if you get lost, Groenie knows - he did both mine and his.

lecap · « **Reply #453 on:** January 27, 2012, 10:59:05 am »

Quote from: WILDCOAST on January 26, 2012, 01:02:56 pm

When doing valve clearance, how do you work out wich one is the compression stroke?

Two ways:

Its the TDC after the intake valve has closed. You need to know which way the engine turns.

It's the TDC where you do have valve clearances. The engine needs to be in running condition. Might not work after a rebuild or on a piece of scrap.

Quote from: grego on January 26, 2012, 11:54:50 am

Quote from: lecap on January 26, 2012, 11:01:08 am
Quote from: Veemax on January 25, 2012, 01:06:26 pm
Here in CT Craig's buy's in 200L barrels of Putoline 10W50 , you pitch up with your own can and buy 5L for R200 I think. Anyway, it makes a lot of sense so I've shifted in that direction now.

At that price it's most likely 20W50.
10W50 spec is not achievable with cheaper semi synthetic base stock unless you use tons of viscosity modifiers (which you don't want to)
Means even itf it is 10W50 I would think twice before buying it. There is a reason why a good JASO MA SAE10W40 retails for around R70 and 10W50 for R100 or more.
makro sells castrol power1, fully synthetic, JASO MA SAE10W50... R69.95 a litre

If you vcan get Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T for R 70 a litre and want tu use it in your bike buy as much as you can afford to stockpile. The price is ridiculously cheap and I'm a bit worried it might be a limited time offer (?).

Wildcoast · « **Reply #454 on:** January 27, 2012, 11:29:43 am »

Thanks Le Cap, that's what I needed, only 17k km engine was running well before she stood.

Wildcoast · « **Reply #455 on:** January 27, 2012, 11:43:36 am »

This dude hotted his 93

Veemax · « **Reply #456 on:** January 27, 2012, 11:59:15 am »

That is one killer amount of voomah for an oldtimer thumper .... that thing will wheelie like a MAD thing !!!

Wildcoast · « **Reply #457 on:** January 27, 2012, 12:19:32 pm »

Welcome back Veemax, where have you been DR'ing? Yeah that bike uses a XR650 aftermarket piston, TM 40, custom big valve head and custom zorst header with GSXR1000 can , 738cc

volroom · « **Reply #458 on:** January 27, 2012, 03:34:35 pm »

So simply you get two TDC's. If the first is right after the exhaust stroke the exhaust valves will be open. The following TDC - you'll have all the valves closed. Yes?

volroom · « **Reply #459 on:** January 27, 2012, 03:35:26 pm »

Quote from: WILDCOAST on January 27, 2012, 12:19:32 pm

Welcome back Veemax, where have you been DR'ing? Yeah that bike uses a XR650 aftermarket piston, TM 40, custom big valve head and custom zorst header with GSXR1000 can , 738cc

Let a TM40 slip through my hands today...will try to dyno, slightly mod carb and take out snorkel

Author Topic: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's) (Read 35972 times)

theotherguy

theotherguy