Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)

[SuperDavexlv750r]

Welcome back Veemax, where have you been DR'ing? Yeah that bike uses a XR650 aftermarket piston, TM 40, custom big valve head and custom zorst header with GSXR1000 can , 738cc

Planning similar rebuild in future for my 93.

Can hardly wait, It;s going to frighten a few of the newer bikes - twins included.

Can you post me a link to this guy?

[Wildcoast]

I don't know how to post a link, but if you google "post your dyno sheets thumpertalk" it will take you to the page, also check out mxrob.com

[volroom]

LeCap, Makro in JHB has got Castrol edge 10W60 fully synthetic API SL oil, 5L for R280. Is this good oil for an old DR?this oil at midas cost almost R500...

Can also get Motal 5100 10W40 4T, FL at starting line in Edenvale for R300. It says it's got some technology for wetclutches-smoother shifting

Any comment on where to get good mirrors for the DR? Mine is cheap aftermarket and the one especially vibrate too much, they aren't high enough as well

[lecap]

The Castrol Edge should not do any harm as long as it's API SL.
I'd still rather use the Motul 5100 which is JASO MA spec means specifically fornulated to work with wet clutch and look after your gears.
Non JASO MA oil might degrade rapidly in your bikes gearbox. Apparently some car oils don't like this and little might be left of your fancy 10W60 spec at the next oil change.

JASO MA takes the guesswork out of the equation.

If you use Castrol Edge check with every single batch that it was not "upgraded" to API SM. Most countries outside of SA sell Castrol Edge 10W60 with API service class SM. Castrol Edge 5W40 afaik is exclusively available as API SM

Good mirrors = OEM = pricey
Bad mirrors = aftermarket = cheap
Two separate equations. No part of one can be substituted into the other. Except "pricey" can be substituted for "cheap" at will

[Wildcoast]

Just a quick one guys, does your headlight come on with the ignition or after you start the bike?

[Veemax]

With ignition.

[SuperDavexlv750r]

Seperate light switch for on and off.

[Wildcoast]

Wierd, no headlight and I changed no wires as yet!

[lecap]

The headlight does (should) come on when you switch on the ignition.

The bikes battery powered electrics do actually not "know" if the engine is running or not. The engine uses a magneto system (source coil & trigger) & some electronics to create and time the spark.

Both old DR650R / RE / RS / RSE (type SP41 - SP45) as well as DR650SE (type SP46) came with light switches or no light switches - depending on the country model.

If your bike does not have a light switch: Tap into the starter button circuit and use the tap to trigger a five point relais: Run the GROUND lead returning from the headlight over the "open when triggered" relais contact. Your light will now switch off automatically when and for as long as you hold the start button making some extra cranking power available to the starter and reducing stress on the battery.
Less than R 100 in bits and parts. Less than an hour to make.

[Veemax]

I have a toggle switch to manually turn off the headlight , installed by the previous owner, and see no reason not to leave it there, a funny thing happens, when it's off, the blue highbeam indicator light burns, which is actually quite handy as a happy coincidence 

[volroom]

Set the valve clearances this weekend...without experience this can take a while... thing is that if you get them exactly right - the feel guage should it seems not come out between valve and rocker arm TOO EASILY. Someone told me the feeler guage should ALMOST be pinched but not so that you can't get it in again after it's been set.

The issue here for me was when I finally tighten the nut  - it goes tighter than what I had it. So...you have to set it too loose almost and then as you tighten it you hope that it is purrrfect. Took a while. There's no way you can hold the thing steady with a screw driver when you tighten the nut good, no ways.

My feeler gauges are car one's - the long thin ones, and make life difficult. Anyone know where I can get one's that look like those supplied by Suzuki for the DR's?

Well, I believe I got it in the end. I had a look at the exhaust flange as well when I took it off, that weld there DEFINITELY would restrict air flow, so I took a file and now it's nice. The plugs also, heard that getting the electrode to face the inlet ports can make engine more efficient. So, I hoped for the best and marked the plugs with a permanent marker - where the electrode is. Got it in, and it is almost pointed toward the inlet ports, so good...

Got the right plugs from Full throttle...man, I don't like shopping there.

I need an exhaust clamp. Got one but it was too big. Problem is that the can is too wide (where the it connect to the header). I took angle grinder and made slits so tightening it would taper can to fit header without leak. Anyone knows of a DIY solution of exhaust clamp?

Also took out the snorkel. I suspect the carb is running to rich. We'll see. Thx LeCap for advice. Would be good to get oil that helps shifting. It comes in 4L though, so with change of oil filter that does not give me two oil changes, just less than that. PAIN. Would have to buy another bottle for that 150ml the oil filter takes.

[volroom]

LeCap, do you know of other oil that is made to help shifting - wetclutches besides MOTUL?

Need to change sprockets. Used Gearing Commander to decide on 14 (front) and 40 (back). Will up the revs slightly in 2nd. I don't have a TM40 carb...(!) so I want to smooth out the jerkiness at low revs (below 3000rpm). Riding around town - you can always open up everywhere you know?

Any comments on my sprocket choices? also with regards to where to buy and expected prices? thx

[lecap]

I use Castrol ActEvo 4T SAE10W40 JASO MA
Got stock again after some shortage in Jan.
You can get it in 1l containers for around R70 from bike shops. Sometimes considerably cheaper IF you can get it in places like Makro.
I sell it for R 68 / litre

[volroom]

I use Castrol ActEvo 4T SAE10W40 JASO MA
Got stock again after some shortage in Jan.
You can get it in 1l containers for around R70 from bike shops. Sometimes considerably cheaper IF you can get it in places like Makro.
I sell it for R 68 / litre

Will look into that oil, thx. Got a question there about sprocket size. This is the issue it seems: I got a DID 525 V8 chain with the bike when I bought it, separate in box, brand new. GREAT!

Now, I have to replace sprockets and tyres. I'm asking the guys at chaintech what sprockets I should buy. They say the 1993 DR650 should take a 520 chain. I need to do some kind of conversion for it to take a 525 chain and sprockets...Here's their reply:

"A 525 pitch conversion means, you get the part number of the sprocket your bike takes with its specific measurements and splines and bolt holes, then you take those specs and match it up according to a 525 pitch.  Standard, the bike comes out in a 520 pitch and I have just tried to find matching measurements in a 525 and there is no part numbers with the same measurements.  I can help you with 520 pitch sprockets and chain.  That means you HAVE to use a 520 pitch chain as well.!"

Does anyone know anything about pitch and what not above here? You telling me that my brand new DID chain does not fit my bike?

[Veemax]

Sorry Volroom, can't help with pitch story. I have, over the years, developed a strategy of ALWAYS shopping for parts with a sample in hand. I always get the right thing. I wouldn't change sprockets if you got given the wrong chain. You'll make a lifetime of fishing in the wrong river. I would urge you trade the chain.

Having just said that, I ordered a new front disk brake rotor from Suzuki , with no sample !

The model numbers and codes for this generation DR are all over the place, so I've just phoned in with my VIN # .

Yes it IS a 1994. The designation of mine is DR650RE , with year code "r" for 1994 , so it's a DR650RER supposedly.

The internet is a great place for total misinformation. FINALLY, I know what my bike is, from the official Suzuki Fiche.

My new disk is inbound from Japan. With my Frequent Flyer discount it's around R2800.

The confidence factor in the metallurgy of the clones is a ZERO. On brakes, I take no chances.

I'm in on this bike ... call it R40k.

No matter how you hack it, to get a mechanically new and completely reliable machine on the road, with a whole new life expectancy from a whole freshly rebooted platform , it is unlikely you will end up spending any less.

[Wildcoast]

Well, this is what she will look like when done......

[Wildcoast]

Read something rather interesting on throttle response. replace DR throttle tube with one from a Yamaha R-6 anyone heard of or care to comment on this?

[lecap]

...Got a question there about sprocket size. This is the issue it seems: I got a DID 525 V8 chain with the bike when I bought it, separate in box, brand new. GREAT!

Now, I have to replace sprockets and tyres. I'm asking the guys at chaintech what sprockets I should buy. They say the 1993 DR650 should take a 520 chain. I need to do some kind of conversion for it to take a 525 chain and sprockets...Here's their reply:

"A 525 pitch conversion means, you get the part number of the sprocket your bike takes with its specific measurements and splines and bolt holes, then you take those specs and match it up according to a 525 pitch.  Standard, the bike comes out in a 520 pitch and I have just tried to find matching measurements in a 525 and there is no part numbers with the same measurements.  I can help you with 520 pitch sprockets and chain.  That means you HAVE to use a 520 pitch chain as well.!"

Does anyone know anything about pitch and what not above here? You telling me that my brand new DID chain does not fit my bike?

First: DID 525 V8 chain & GREAT! are two things rather far apart from each other: The reason why you got it with your bike was because some smartie knew it's a shite chain with a proven track record of snapping way before reaching its wear limit and without warning. The chain came new fitted to a DR650SE (probably the bike the previous owner of your bike replaced yours with).
He did the sensible thing (like me) and took the chain off the brand new bike and fitted something decent like a DID VX. Then he did the not so sensible and gave it to you making you believe you snapped up a bargain

Now go and give it to someone you don't like

520, 525, 530, 532 and 50 chains all share the same pitch (distance from pin centreline to pin centreline). It is 5/8" or 15.88mm.
The difference lies in the chains gauge (basically the thickness of the sprockets) which is:
520: 1/4" = 6.35mm
525: 5/16" = 7.94mm
530, 532 and 50: 3/8" = 9.5mm
532 being some "extra heavy duty" stuff uses proprietary sprockets due to its unique (larger than all other 5/8" pitch chains) roller diameter. It is externally almost identical to a 530 and 50

630 (3/4"x3/8") 19.05mm x 9.5mm was a chain used for some heavy late 70's two wheeled sows like Katanas and CB750KZ

Long story short: Just get the 520 chain annd sprockets for your bike. The 525 gauge sprockets of the DR650SE 1996 and later might fit (it does work the other way around).

[Veemax]

Well, this is what she will look like when done......

Brilliant ! Wow ! And you'll keep all the brand-loyal Propeller / Orange fixated riders wondering What The Hell Is That ?

I think I'm going to epoxy-fill the "Suzuki" on the oil filter cap , it's about the only insignia left, and turn my desert rat into a mystery for all but the Informed : ) : )

I think maybe an Acerbis tank will be a nice present to myself , check the exchange rate .... now is the time. But the magnetic property I will miss...ho hum....

Oh yeah, and that fender is way cooler than the stock.

[Wildcoast]

Thanks Veemax  Ja keep em guessing, I hope the SM mudguard keeps the mud splatter at bay, I will be fitting a shorty screen at a later date.