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Author Topic: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)  (Read 34062 times)

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Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #820 on: May 15, 2012, 09:30:33 pm »
I've looked but I can't find a solid source for battery output for 1993 DR650. Manual says it's 5Ah, I would have thought that the battery in it is bigger than a 5Ah one. Reason for asking, I've got a trickle charger and it says minimum 7Ah.
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Offline lecap

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #821 on: May 16, 2012, 10:07:22 am »
Don't use a trickle charger on a starter battery.
Trickle chargers are made for storage / deep cycle batteries as used in camper vans, boats, UPS, alarm systems etc.
Trickle charging a starter battery will cause sulfation and premature failure.

Best to get an AGM battery which will not require any maintenance charging for months due to its extremely low self discharge rate.

If you want / have to use a flooded cell battery (which is a kark idea in a dirt bike which gets dropped occasionally) use an ordinary maintenance / workshop charger and charge the battery once every month until the charging current drops to near zero. If you're lazy get an automatic "intelligent" maintenance charger which cyclically recharges the battery.

Don't get an intelligent charger for an AGM since you are wasting your money.
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Offline lecap

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #822 on: May 16, 2012, 10:14:42 am »
The battery should be an MF YTX4L-BS which has a capacity of 3Ah (?)

The charging systems power output should be (rated at) around 10A equivalent to 120W (guess).
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Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #823 on: May 16, 2012, 05:59:58 pm »
Don't use a trickle charger on a starter battery.
Trickle chargers are made for storage / deep cycle batteries as used in camper vans, boats, UPS, alarm systems etc.
Trickle charging a starter battery will cause sulfation and premature failure.

Best to get an AGM battery which will not require any maintenance charging for months due to its extremely low self discharge rate.

If you want / have to use a flooded cell battery (which is a kark idea in a dirt bike which gets dropped occasionally) use an ordinary maintenance / workshop charger and charge the battery once every month until the charging current drops to near zero. If you're lazy get an automatic "intelligent" maintenance charger which cyclically recharges the battery.

Don't get an intelligent charger for an AGM since you are wasting your money.

The trickle charger i've got specifies that it's for motorbikes batteries, 0.2 amp charging (don't know if that's per hour or minute). It charges till 13.5V potential difference is measured across battery terminals, then it discharges it to 13V, and starts again to charge to 13.5V etc. How is this bad for the battery? How would this cause sulfonation?
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Offline Wildcoast

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #824 on: May 16, 2012, 07:08:45 pm »
Well I have returned to EL now folks. The trip blew my motor , so she is pieces at present...... >:(
 

Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #825 on: May 16, 2012, 08:54:48 pm »
Good to hear of you again WC, been rather quite around here the last while. Sorry to hear about the motor! What happened? ceased? how did you get to EL then?

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Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #826 on: May 16, 2012, 08:57:39 pm »
The battery should be an MF YTX4L-BS which has a capacity of 3Ah (?)

The charging systems power output should be (rated at) around 10A equivalent to 120W (guess).

When you refer to AGM battey Le Cap, I take it you are talking about Yuasa batteries? I saw on the website that the discharge rate for the calcium batteries was much less than "normal" ones. How much more expenxsive are they?

Say for a 1993 DR650 and a R1150GS?
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Offline Veemax

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #827 on: May 16, 2012, 10:52:56 pm »
Well I have returned to EL now folks. The trip blew my motor , so she is pieces at present...... >:(

Aw maaaaan , tough break ! Hope it's not too serious ?  Not often a DR FAILS !   After all the work you've put in , just ain't fair.

But better a enjin shot to hell than an injury upon your person !
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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #828 on: May 17, 2012, 05:45:50 am »
Well I have returned to EL now folks. The trip blew my motor , so she is pieces at present...... >:(

been there,  done that.
only thing salvageable with mine was the head,
yes,  EVERYTHING below the head was destroyed.
i know your pain,  and hope for the best.
 

Offline DeepBass9

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #829 on: May 17, 2012, 09:03:05 am »
 :o what happend WC?

Offline SuperDavexlv750r

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #830 on: May 17, 2012, 09:28:38 am »
Well I have returned to EL now folks. The trip blew my motor , so she is pieces at present...... >:(

Oh no!

Call me regarding the rebuild - i may have something to share with you. oh 8 three 3 nyn fyf 9 one fyf zero
If you don't wings - you will never fly!

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Offline lecap

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #831 on: May 17, 2012, 10:12:42 am »
The battery should be an MF YTX4L-BS which has a capacity of 3Ah (?)

The charging systems power output should be (rated at) around 10A equivalent to 120W (guess).

When you refer to AGM battey Le Cap, I take it you are talking about Yuasa batteries? I saw on the website that the discharge rate for the calcium batteries was much less than "normal" ones. How much more expenxsive are they?

Say for a 1993 DR650 and a R1150GS?

AGM = Absorbent Glass Mat sometimes also referred to as VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery, NOT identical with Lead Calcium which is only a sub type of flooded cell lead acid.
THe AGM / VRLA is recognisable from having no (easily) removable filler caps.
You can operate it on its side and even uposide down since the electrolyte does not slosh around but is absorbed and held in place by a glass fibre mat hence the name.

A MotoBatt MBTX4U retqails at around R 300. The equivalent Yuasa YTX4L-BS might be a few bucks more.

Not 100% sure which size battery the R1150GS takes. Will find out.
Edit: Can get both MotoBatt as well as Dynavolt for R800
« Last Edit: May 17, 2012, 10:28:25 am by lecap »
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Offline lecap

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #832 on: May 17, 2012, 10:26:47 am »
Don't use a trickle charger on a starter battery.
Trickle chargers are made for storage / deep cycle batteries as used in camper vans, boats, UPS, alarm systems etc.
Trickle charging a starter battery will cause sulfation and premature failure.

Best to get an AGM battery which will not require any maintenance charging for months due to its extremely low self discharge rate.

If you want / have to use a flooded cell battery (which is a kark idea in a dirt bike which gets dropped occasionally) use an ordinary maintenance / workshop charger and charge the battery once every month until the charging current drops to near zero. If you're lazy get an automatic "intelligent" maintenance charger which cyclically recharges the battery.

Don't get an intelligent charger for an AGM since you are wasting your money.

The trickle charger i've got specifies that it's for motorbikes batteries, 0.2 amp charging (don't know if that's per hour or minute). It charges till 13.5V potential difference is measured across battery terminals, then it discharges it to 13V, and starts again to charge to 13.5V etc. How is this bad for the battery? How would this cause sulfonation?

It does not cause sulfation like continuous trickle charge does in starter batteries.
But it causes the plates to distort like normal operation of the battery would.

Using an "intelligent" maintenance charger on a flooded cell battery is just like cycling the battery on a daily basis. The charger is therefore best referred to as a charging cycle charger. There isn't anything intelligent about them.
From a wear point of view it's like cranking your engine for a minute or so and then starting the engine & recharging the battery.

The AGM basically goes dormant and thanks to its very low self discharge you don't need to do anything to it even if it stands for a month or three.
This makes an AGM starter battery way superior in all applications where the battery is used intermittendly. Bikes, jet ski etc.
No leakage if tipped over or inverted, a generally longer service life if compared to flodded cell and the fact that they pack more punch for a given capacity (both "cranking power" and useable capacity) are other advantages.
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Offline Veemax

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #833 on: May 17, 2012, 10:27:02 am »
MotoBatt, the YELLOW ones ? I've been buying those from Craigs for DR , and Cruisers ... are they any good ?
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Offline Veemax

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #834 on: May 17, 2012, 10:27:52 am »
Asked and answered , crossed postings ! : )
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Offline lecap

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #835 on: May 17, 2012, 10:31:51 am »
MotoBatt, Dynavolt, Yuasa AGM's are good. Koyo is still good but I'd rather buy a Yuasa and pay R200 more.

Not so good according to my experience: Himura. Two died within less than three months, the second one being the replacement for the first ::)
Yacht. Two dead ones, both looked suspiciously new & clean ???
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Offline Veemax

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #836 on: May 17, 2012, 10:35:07 am »
Had a Yacht let me down .... that's confirmation then !
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Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #837 on: May 18, 2012, 03:26:56 pm »
With regards to WC's breakdown...he recently fitted a free flow silencer. I have heard the following before: so called "back pressure" is needed to keep the flames inside of the cylinder/head - combustion chaimber - whatever as the exhaust valve opens for the exhaust stroke. There is a measure of overlap, so the exhaust valve can start to open even before the piston comes up for exhaust stroke (??)

Point is that i've heard that you can burn valves when there is no back pressure. You will definitely burn valves in a petrol engine when there is no header pipe from the exhaust ports - why? because there is no back pressure. Back pressure is due to obstruction within the exhaust system. So a silencer with baffles and what not affords that back pressure (no burning of valves then), and also decreases the noise.

Did you burn a valve then, WC?

I recently fitted a 2nd hand akro on my R1150GS, before - exhaust gas flow out of canister was very little, surprising for the size of engine - having changed to the free flow option, much more gas flow. The stock silencer definitely provided SOME back pressure.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2012, 10:22:50 pm by volroom »
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Offline volroom

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #838 on: May 22, 2012, 11:28:59 am »
No Veemax, this thread is not alive...
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Offline Veemax

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Re: Older DR 600/650 thread (Pre mid 90's)
« Reply #839 on: May 22, 2012, 11:41:34 am »
Ja ja I marked your trip story unread as I know I should get back to you , but am busy organising my 50th birthday bash this Saturday !!! >:D
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