BEFORE YOU BUY A 690 KTM CHECK HERE WHAT TO LOOK FOR

[michnus]

Please add information for prospective new owners of second hand bikes, that you feel they ought to know and things they need to look out for, before spending the money.

please keep the threads clean of spam

[SpeedMetal]

Thanks for starting this thread as I am sure with this popular machine it will generate a lot of interest.

Here are some of the issues that I have heard off, if anyone can please comment on the following:
 • Rocker Arm Bearing failure - Is this on the older models only and at what km’s do you start picking this up?
 • Bike continuously stalling – This appear to be an intermittent problem that could be caused by an aftermarket pipe?
 • Accelerator lag – Apparently there is a bit of play on the accelerator that also causes uneven acceleration. I have seen some guys fit better designed aftermarket accelerator cables?

[h˛/hh]

Check the routing of the fuel line underneath the seat alongside the air intake box. (between the air box and frame) The line tend to rub through due to vibration on a frame bolt.

On the remarks:

"Rocker Arm Bearing failure" - First time I heard of this. (The PitBike has done now 40 000km problem free)

 "Bike continuously stalling" - This will happen if you do not wait for the inboard computer to complete it's boot-up. Even wait a bit longer after switching on the ignition, before attempting to start the bike. BMW is very forgiving in this regard. I do not believe an aftermarket pipe is responsible.

"Accelerator lag" - Have not notice this. In effect it has to much acceleration for me. Fitted a G2-Throttle Controller to counter this.

My biggest problem is the headlight that continue to fail, seems like the filaments cannot handle vibration. Virtually after each Grond&Stront trip the globe need to be replaced. Due to space a HID can not be fitted.

[Bill the Bong]

Stalling issue is more of a lean flame-out under delicate throttle conditions.  Not taking off from robot, for instance, more if you are threading between rocks.   Can be cured with Vortex ECU, about R5500, maybe even the booster thingy that Schlowy sells.  I'll be trying the cheap option 1st. Mine stalled more with with the OEM
exhaust.

A 15min reset is required every so often.

Quite a lot of niggly things were updated on the 2011 models.  You still need to seal the air filter to the airbox with rubber grease or fit a Unifilter.  Runner sells it.

In my opinion a stripped down rallye bike that likes full bore blasts more that delicate off-road work.

Its my bike of choice to remove cob-webs

[SpeedMetal]

Thanks guys, I have subsequently made the investement and got a good condition 2010 with a 1000 km's on the clock and a Leo Vince Pipe. In training for Amageza, myself and Daksider went to De Wildt last weekend and I must say the bike is amazing! I think I might actually have gone through certain sections faster than on my 300. The only thing that got to me a bit was the stalling in the rocky sections, but that could also be because I am used to riding my 300 that is impossible to stall. I will give the 15min reset a try aswell as the "computer boot-up" time.

What does seem to have gone haywire is the indicator unit. Once activated, I battle to get it deactivated and it feels flimsy?

[Bill the Bong]

I've fitted the Accelerator Module that Schlowy sells.  Runs much much cooler and stalling is gone.  Throttle action is still shite, though

[Rolling Stone]

Thanks guys, I have subsequently made the investement and got a good condition 2010 with a 1000 km's on the clock and a Leo Vince Pipe. In training for Amageza, myself and Daksider went to De Wildt last weekend and I must say the bike is amazing! I think I might actually have gone through certain sections faster than on my 300. The only thing that got to me a bit was the stalling in the rocky sections, but that could also be because I am used to riding my 300 that is impossible to stall. I will give the 15min reset a try aswell as the "computer boot-up" time.

What does seem to have gone haywire is the indicator unit. Once activated, I battle to get it deactivated and it feels flimsy?

RAD worked on my mapping and stalling is much better

[iamgigglz]

Nothing new in 5 years 

• Rocker Arm Bearing Failure: I've noticed a few gumtree Enduros in the 2008 range with "rocker arms redone". Is this an issue?
• Low speed stalling: Seems to be linked to dodgy mapping. Doesn't affect all bikes. Schlowy's accelerator module or a pricey Vortex ECU helps but RAD can work on the stock ECU's mapping.
• Accelerator lag/Twitchy throttle: Aftermarket accelerator cable?
• Air box: Need to seal the air filter to the airbox with rubber grease or fit a Unifilter.  Runner sells it.
• Routing of the fuel line: Underneath the seat alongside the air intake box. (between the air box and frame) The line tends to rub through due to vibration on a frame bolt.
• Headlight globe failure: Probably due to vibration. LED globe would likely help.
• Wiring: Is fairly naked close to connectors and can rub through causing a short. Insulation tape fix.

Is that it? I'm curious about these niggles that were solved on the 2011 models.

[Omninorm]

Nothing new in 5 years 

• Rocker Arm Bearing Failure: I've noticed a few gumtree Enduros in the 2008 range with "rocker arms redone". Is this an issue?
• Low speed stalling: Seems to be linked to dodgy mapping. Doesn't affect all bikes. Schlowy's accelerator module or a pricey Vortex ECU helps but RAD can work on the stock ECU's mapping.
• Accelerator lag/Twitchy throttle: Aftermarket accelerator cable?
• Air box: Need to seal the air filter to the airbox with rubber grease or fit a Unifilter.  Runner sells it.
• Routing of the fuel line: Underneath the seat alongside the air intake box. (between the air box and frame) The line tends to rub through due to vibration on a frame bolt.
• Headlight globe failure: Probably due to vibration. LED globe would likely help.
• Wiring: Is fairly naked close to connectors and can rub through causing a short. Insulation tape fix.

Is that it? I'm curious about these niggles that were solved on the 2011 models.

I've had my 2017 now for 1 year and 10 000km.

I did the Insulation tape fix on the rear for rubbing, I did the preventative fix on greasing the airbox.
Not 1 single issue - miles of smiles only. Best bike I've ever owned and i've had a few. I ride it hard but keep it well maintained. Correct torque specs and correct oil etc. i.e I follow the maintenance requirements to the tee.
If you want to get a 690 just get one. You will be happy you did.

Rocker Arm Bearings
Rocker arms bearings were an issue in pre 2014 models. They wore out making the rocker arm pin to slide around...when worn enough it can slide out a long way and the rocker arm then hits that and...well it brakes if you are lucky or shatters catastrophically if you unlucky. Mate had one go catastrophically on his 2009 model at iirc 27 000km The bill was R16000 to replace everything with new parts.
2015 and up they had a redesign and this should not happen anymore. If you are worried replace the rocker arm bearings every 25 000km for +- R1200 as part of your maintenance.
So if someone did the rocker arms or rather rocker arm bearings thats a good thing imho.

Low speed stalling - That's a user error imho. No problems here. 10/10 times the owner changed the exhaust and airbox. You can do that but there are things to consider. I run a Wings exhaust and stock airbox. Medium baffle. Anything more you have to re-map. Then you have all kinds of variables from mapping to the guy doing it etc etc.

Accelerator lag / twitchy throttle = Either have the underseat throttle map switch on Bad fuel/Low power setting (Laggy) or on High Power setting - Twitchy. Set it on Medium and it's smooth in my experience. It's a 690cc Thumper with a big fat piston - It's not going to ride like you are riding with miss daisy on the back. That or you are holding on too tight

Airbox. People over-tighten the bolts causing a gap in the plastic bit that keeps it down it's 10n/m - that's finger tight only - that and/or they don't take care to clip the front piece piece into the bracket properly, or think they did but did not. There is a trick to it and I once checked my mates's one who was just at KTM and they did not even clip it in properly. Check it!  I sealed it with grease or Vaseline around the edge anyway. Clean as a whistle.

Globes All globes and lighting still fine as well as dash and I've taken it over a lot of rough terrain, dust rock sand rain, etc.

Wiring. Checked all the wiring when 1000km on it. All wiring perfect except rear light wiring that I see could shafe a bit... So I re routed it slightly and put tape around it. 9000km later, all still good.

Updated: sold it on 27000km iirc. Hard riding. Dirt,  Sand, dunes, “funduros”, No issues.

[Baches]

Have a 2017 model myself. Bought it with 3800 km on the clock and now have 10500 km on the clock. The only issue I had was the original paper airfilter that sucks dust through it. Replaced it with a unifilter and the problem was solved. The only other problem is rear tires. Knobblies do not last.  BUT there is no other (perhaps the 1290 ) that puts a bigger grin on your face. Buy one - you will not regret it.