Welcome to the Wildcoast - Port St.Johns to Hole-in-the-Wall.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wildside

Pack Dog
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
497
Reaction score
36
Location
Howick
Bike
Honda XR650R
                          Welcome to the Wildcoast !
        Port St. Johns to Hole-in-the-Wall – 4x4 Coastal Route
                                                          20 October 2011 

This Wildcoast ride was to be part of our planning for our December trip and would be a good test of bikes and equipment. No changes have been made to my bike, other than a long range tank, since our last trip to Namibia but Kingsleys bike and our camping gear have changed. This is also an opportunity for anyone interested in this area of the Wildcoast, to enjoy a ride that is not too over demanding (weather permitting)  but makes for an interesting trip providing one with beautiful scenery along a fairly unspoilt stretch of coastline.
Below is a hand drawn map that we were given at Cremorne Estate several years ago and each time I have added a bit of detail to make it clearer. It is fairly accurate and time consuming when one follows all the little coastal tracks – but well worth it.


img_4327.jpg


Thursday arrived and all our gear was packed and our bikes ready to depart as soon as we could escape work. At 11.30 am we filled up with fuel and headed off out of Merrivale (KZN) towards Underberg. We turned off onto the first Coleford road which is a dirt road that takes one through the Coleford Nature Reserve and is apparently 10 km shorter. This lovely gravel road winds through some stunning areas and offers some magnificent views .We took some time out to fool around on the drift that crosses the Umzinkulu River.

img_7311.jpg


After a while we joined up on the tar road again at Kingscote and from there it was easy riding to Kokstad with very little traffic. The traffic became heavier as we set off down Brooks Nek Pass into the Eastern Cape, which was once known as the Transkei, and often is still referred to as that.
Taking the turn off to Bizana at the bottom of the hill was a relief and we could start to relax and get that holiday feeling. Getting through the busy town of Flagstaff required a lot of patience and good humour as the traffic was bumper to bumper in both directions and on several occasions it came to a standstill as more cars tried to squeeze in and some drivers decided it was time to chat to a long lost buddy on the sidewalk. It seems that we were the only ones in a rush. Getting through Lusikisiki wasn’t as bad and we were soon covering the last 40km to Port St. Johns. The closer to Port St. Johns the windier the roads became. After seeing Kingsley nearly taken out by an on coming taxi travelling on the wrong side of the road I hugged the barrier on the left and negotiated these tight corners very carefully.

By late afternoon two tired people pulled in to Cremorne Estates, along the northern banks of the Mzimvubu River, ready to pitch a tent and discard the boots , but, my  ‘ St. Christopher’ was there and suggested that instead of camping we should stay in the Fishermans Cottages for only an extra R20 each. What a treat!! It was nothing special – a tiny wooden cabin with a double bed and a few shelves – what more does a tired adventure rider need? It does save us from packing up a damp tent.
It didn’t take long for us to settle in and head for the pub and restaurant.


img_7339.jpg


img_7337.jpg


img_7315.jpg


img_7317.jpg


img_7323.jpg



Before heading off to Hole-in-the-wall the next day we decided to ride up to the airstrip on top of Mount Thesiger. It’s about 20 km out of town – follow directions to the landfill sight. When you reach the Bulalo Dam turn right onto a newly tarred road which becomes fairly steep and windy. You really feel on top of the world up there and you have a magnificent 360 degree view. It would be advisable to check out the skies first before gaily heading off down the airstrip to the viewpoint. There is always a lot of cow dung on the airstrip and I suppose the pilot of these small aircraft has to take care not to have a real ‘shitty’ landing.


img_7342.jpg


img_7343.jpg


img_7348.jpg


img_7357.jpg


100_1325.jpg


img_7362.jpg




At 11.00 am we finally managed to head out of Port St. Johns and followed the Mthatha road for about 21 km.  We have been told that no day visitors are welcome at Umngazi River Bungalows so we made no attempt to visit there.
Turning left at the Mpande and Isilimela Hospital sign will lead you in the right direction for 12 km on a good gravel road to the turn off to UMGAZANA. This is not sign posted but look out for Post Boxes on your right and NEDAVU PRIMARY SCHOOL on your left.

img_7368.jpg


img_7370.jpg


img_7371.jpg


img_7372.jpg



Once you get to the top of the hill the views are stunning and you will see the Umgazana River snaking its way down to the coast. The road also splits here so keep LEFT. Right takes you to Brazen Heads – which we did not check out as the road does not lead down to the beach.

img_7377.jpg


100_1329.jpg


100_1332.jpg



The roads are a bit rutted in places and lead you past dry mangrove swamps. When we got to the end of the line Kingsley decided that he wanted to go down the two concrete strips to the cottages below and from previous experience I decided it was not a good idea for me to follow – and so the fun started....

img_7382.jpg


 
Top