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Offline wildside

RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« on: February 02, 2012, 04:32:45 pm »


 Before I tell you about our adventure through East Africa I want to give you a brief description of the Great Rift Valley as this is the route we followed.
Africas Great Rift Valley is a 6000 km crack in the earths’ crust caused by violent subterranean forces that tore apart the earths crust causing huge chunks of the crust to sink between parallel fault lines and force up molten rock in volcanic eruptions. This stretches from central Mozambique in South East Africa, through Malawi where it splits into the Western Rift Valley ( also known as the Albertine Rift ) and the Eastern Rift Valley, which runs through central Tanzania.  The most dramatic section that runs through East Africa divides Kenya into two segments and continues all the way to Northern Syria in South west Asia.

 The western branch contains the Rift Valley Lakes which we followed up to Murchison Falls, on the Victoria Nile in Northern Uganda. We then crossed over to Kenya to follow the eastern Rift Valley back down to Southern Lake Malawi.



MAP OF RIFT VALLEY

The Rift Valley is something that has fascinated me since high school and after our Namibian Meander in 2009, we discussed our next destination and jokingly I suggested that we follow the Rift Valley. Kingsley wasn’t too sure about where or what it was.  To cut a long story short he was soon convinced that this was a good idea as our dream of doing Cape to Cairo  had little chance of ever materializing. This was going to be our Trans Africa trip.

"KARIBU"


This is the word we heard many times throughout our journey, which means “Welcome” in Swahili. This was how we were greeted and how we felt throughout our month long trip through East Africa, likewise I would like to “welcome” you to our Ride Report.





  Finally we were loaded up with two well prepared motorbikes on the back of our Hilux and ready to roll. We snuck away from work and out of Howick (KZN) on the 7th December 2011, a few days earlier than planned. All responsibilities behind us and an amazing adventure in front us.  We popped in to see our son in Johannesburg, who had just returned from a trip to Bali, and without further adieu we headed for Zimbabwe. It was now 9.00 pm Wednesday evening and with all the excitement we managed to drive through the night and arrived at the Beit Bridge border post (South Africa and Zimbabwe) just as the sun was making its daily appearance.

“The road has got me hypnotised and I’m speeding to a new sunrise.”

                                                                                          Golden Earring


We were so organised and had all our paper work in order, such as Visas, Passports, Carnets, Vehicle/Medical Insurance, International Drivers licence, Yellow Fever Health Card and logbooks. This was going to be a piece of cake.........boy were we wrong!!!!!  This was one expensive piece of cake which left a bitter taste in our mouths.

We exited South Africa and entered Zimbabwes huge, dusty and unmarked parking/waiting area. We were amazed by the number of parked buses and taxis. Spread out next to these was all the luggage and people milling around. Some were even draped over the piles of luggage enjoying a bit of shut eye. We hadn’t even worked out yet where it was safe to park when a hand full of locals ran up to us indicating to us to park in a specific place. We obediently complied and soon learnt that this was our first mistake. We were parked a fair distance from the administration buildings and there was clearly no order in all this mess of vehicles. We opened our window to thank the kind gentlemen. He immediately convinced us that for R200 he would get us through Immigration and Customs. To reassure us that this was a good idea he indicated to all the vehicles around us and told us it would take a couple of days for us to finally clear the Border. We were so naive and willingly accepted his kind offer.



IN THE CAR PARK AT BEIT BRIDGE PORDER POST.

I stayed behind to look after the vehicle and bikes while Kingsley went off to take care of the paperwork.  About 2 hours later a very pale and flustered Kingsley returned with a receipt for $470. What the hell !!!  Carbon Tax and Road tax for the bakkie and two motorbikes. This took care of a big chunk of our budget. It was now time to pay the ‘runner’.  He demanded $500 !!!! By now there were so many corrupt officials and buddys involved. We were so angry and overwhelmed by what had happened and once through the boom we were being escorted by 5 locals to an ATM. Can you believe it, we actually paid them $500 – totalling a payment of R7500 to enter Zimbabwe.

In hindsight, we must have stood out as easy pickings for the well seasoned runners who were pros at intimidating and overwhelming the inexperienced tourist who are clearly out of their depth. Angry as we were we decided to learn from our mistake and not let it happen again.

For the rest of the day we stewed over this incident and had to recalculate our budget. Fortunately we had no other unpleasant incidences in Zimbabwe and arrived at the Mozambique border at 5.00 pm and within 1hour and R100 down we were through both borders. This was a breeze as we were now wise travellers and managed on our own. It was now a race cross the Tete Corridor to reach the Malawi border post before 9 pm. It was dark when we arrived at Tete and we needed to refuel. We had no Mozambique currency and after negotiating with a manager at a fuel station our dollars were accepted.

After Tete the roads deteriorated and dodging potholes slowed us down and resulted in the snapping of the tailgate support. This dropped the back wheels of the bikes a bit but they were still secure. Arriving late at the border post, we join the short queue and tried to settle down for some much needed sleep. Loud music and voices boomed through the night. Occasionally a black face peered at us through the window to reassure us that he was determined to be our body guard – despite us refusing his request.

 The surrounding area started waking up at about 5.am and the queues were growing longer. The need for the loo also grew. Oh my gosh we must have been desperate because we actually had to pay for the use of this awful, dirty, smelly, and  dilapidated excuse for a loo – no seat, no water, no toilet paper or flushing devise. However, there was a 44 gallon drum with about 5 inches of water in it squeezed into the corner. Hanging from this to support my squatting position I closed my eyes and tried to think pleasant thoughts. Water from this drum had to be scooped up into a container, poured into the cistern and then you had to pull up the flushing stem. Washing your hands also took place in this same drum as I’m sure many other hands had. Kingsley had to endure the same procedure and I had to chuckle at the look of horror on his green face as he walked out.

We exchanged some dollars for Malawi kwacha and eventually got rid of our so-called bodyguard after many threats from him because we refused to pay him. With great relief we headed for the Malawian border. We popped out the other side even more broke and angry with ourselves as once again we fell for the ‘runners’ bribes and so-called formalities!!

 As we drove through the gate some official looking locals carrying clipboards stopped us and told us that we needed insurance for both bikes and vehicle. We discussed a crazy price of MK 35000 ( R1 646 ) and insisted on a receipt. They then told us to park at the building and before we knew we were being ushered into the building and handed Temporary Import Permit ( TIP) forms  to fill in. This chap was so helpful, cheerful and friendly and one couldn’t help responding to him. We were then ushered to another small office to make a payment of MK 1500  ( R70 ) to pay for the TIP.
 None of these offices are sign posted so one responds to a friendly chap directing one in the right direction. OK...... all this friendliness cost us MK 20 000 ( R940 )!!!  When Kingsley said to him “this is f...ing criminal”, he replied with much amusement “we are trying to uplift our economy”.  Our insurance man arrived back with the insurance cards and a receipt which we are convinced had been written in his own personal receipt book and had nothing do with Hollard Insurance. Who knows how much money he made out of that deal. Yes, it happened again – how embarrassing. So much for us wizening up.

"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 
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Offline Ian in Great Brak River

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2012, 04:44:39 pm »
Wow, good start indeed ... makes one very weary of Zim... looks like this can only get better !

Good old Dutch band Golden Earring was ... rock on Radar Love!

Keep it coming.

 8)
1978. It's 6am, mid winter...two up on a XL 185S ... off to my first casino ever with all of R40 and we've got a full tank of fuel, so enough to get there we reckon.... that's determination...

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Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2012, 04:47:09 pm »
We were now in MALAWI ~ The Warm Heart of Africa.



Just as we were starting to relax and get excited about the start of our ride out steps a man in uniform and pulls us over to the side of the road because we didn’t have reflective tape on our bumper. MK 2000 ( R94 ) poorer  we were soon on our way to Cape Maclear feeling a little disillusioned about this place people refer to as ‘the warm heart of Africa’. This was not a whole lot of money but added to the ever increasing amount spent on silly unbudgeted stuff. This left us feeling a bit vulnerable because if it continued throughout our trip our budget wouldn’t get us home.



Shortly after this we were stopped again because we were carrying extra fuel as Malawi has a fuel shortage. Did we have a permit? NO! Did we have a fire extinguisher? NO!  Fortunately we got away with a warning.


      


The last 18 km stretch of dirt road takes you through some lovely countryside to Cape Maclear, which is on the southern shore of Lake Malawi. Lake Malawi is the most southerly of the great lakes of the Rift Valley. It is the 3rd largest lake in Africa measuring 585 km in length and is up to 100 km wide. The Rift Valley escarpment rises sharply to the west of the lake.



About 500 m before arriving at FAT MONKEY my bikes tie-down snapped and over went the bike. Fortunately it didn’t fall off. Some friendly locals helped us to off load it and Kingsley rode it the rest of the way to Fat Monkey. What a welcoming sight.











"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline cloudgazer

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2012, 04:55:25 pm »
subscribed.

jeez they really took you for a ride at the zim border.
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2012, 04:55:59 pm »
So we finally arrived Friday lunch time, hot, exhausted, unwashed and poorer. It was good to be back again after 25 years. Once we off loaded the Tenere and chatted to the owners, Geoff and Karon, who kindly allowed us to leave our vehicle at their resort while we Rode the Rift, we spent the rest of the day relaxing, swimming and cheering up.



















Tomorrow was the big day. Our plan was to follow the Great Rift Valley, riding through 7 countries and visiting 7 lakes in the Western and Eastern Rift Valley. After about a year of preparation it was finally time to Ride the Rift.

"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline Rodlau

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2012, 06:26:33 pm »
In hind sight would you still motor your bikes to the start point or would you ride the whole route?
 

Offline BlueBull2007

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2012, 07:33:49 pm »
Oooh, looking forward to this! I LOVE lake Tanganyika esp. the Zambian bit.
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Offline charlw

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2012, 01:32:01 pm »
Nice route you have planned.

These idiots at the border posts don't realise that by ripping tourists off less tourists will visit their country. Very sad as some areas are very beautiful.

Where is the minister of tourism?

Probably in a 5 star hotel testing the menu.
The traveler sees what he sees.  The tourist sees what he has come to see.  ~G.K. Chesterton
 

Offline GO GIRL

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2012, 04:48:36 pm »
Great to see the familiar road markers in Malawi have only had the privilege of doing that by 4 x 4

Whew you were lucky that the bike did not come off... :o :o

you have a super ride cut out... :thumleft:

Pity about the bribery..... >:(
 

Online Fuzzy Muzzy

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2012, 08:15:45 pm »
OH MY GOSH  !!  where is my popcorn.

This was pretty much the exact route we planned but we had to cut it short when I had my off in Namibia so we never made it around Lake Victoria.. I am going to love this RR.. keep it coming

Muz

PS: you sure got your ass handed to you at the border crossings, stay away from locals at these places and never swap currency with them either or you will get ripped. there is only the bribery that you allow.
Africa trip, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania & Moz rr http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=61231.0
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #10 on: February 05, 2012, 03:51:38 pm »
In hind sight would you still motor your bikes to the start point or would you ride the whole route?

 Rodlau
We motored the bikes up simply because we didn't have the time to cover that sort of distance on the bikes. If we were on the bikes we would have wanted to use the backroads. With the time constraints we were forced to do Howick to Malawi in 48 hrs, something we could never have done on the bikes.
"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #11 on: February 05, 2012, 04:09:42 pm »

FAT MONKEY to KANDE BEACH
Day 1:    Saturday  ~ 12 December 2011
Distance:    408 km
Time out: 8 am ~ 4 pm


“The travellers conceit is that he is heading into the unknown. The best travel is a leap in the dark. If the destination were familiar what would be the point of going there.”                                    [/i
      Paul Theroux





MAP SHOWING ROUTE AND OVERNIGHT STOPS IN MALAWI

Despite the heat, mozzies, and loud music we slept well. We loaded up our bikes, said our farewells and with butterflies in my tummy rode out through the little village for the start of our big adventure. As we slowly weaved our way through the narrow, sandy lanes passing clay brick and thatch dwellings we noticed the house proud ladies sweeping the sandy area around their homes. We passed a restaurant called “The Boma”. We were hoping to stop here to meet the owner who is a member of the Wilddog forum, but unfortunately it was closed.












It felt good to be back on the bike again and experiencing the simpleness of Africa. The butterflies were soon replaced with great excitement and eagerness to get the show on the road.  To reach the tarred M5 which would take us north we took a short cut which was an interesting and busy little dirt road. For about 15 km we passed many locals pedalling their bicycles in both directions and little clay houses with scruffy thatch rooves  lined the road. Friendly little kids, with big smiles on their faces, would run towards us with arms waving. All this could only lift your spirits.







The M5 was very quiet due to the petrol shortage and all the bicycles were taking advantage of the extra space. I was so impressed by the good cycling etiquette. They would ride in single file and kept to the side of the road. There was no road rage and no riding next to each other as do the ‘roadies’ here in South Africa who like to ride 2 and 3 abreast. This whole scene was so peaceful.
These bicycles were being used for transporting all sorts of things, passengers, pigs, goats, thatch grass, long wooden planks, baskets piled high, bags of maize and coal, poles, doors, and crates filled with all sorts of goodies. The women would often sit sideways on the back seat with ankles crossed and display amazing balance as some even held a baby on their lap or strapped to their back.







I passed a poor chameleon lying in the middle of the road and some kiddies were sitting on the edge of the road watching it. I immediately turned around to rescue it and to the horror of the onlookers I picked it up. Its mouth was wide open and dry. Kingsley poured a few drops of water into its mouth to moisten it, took a couple of photos and we placed him out of harms way. We appealed to the onlookers to please leave him alone. In most African mythology, the chameleon is regarded as a creature of distrust and deceit and often considered as a bad omen.





"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #12 on: February 05, 2012, 04:15:59 pm »


The whole stretch of road to KANDE BEACH was lined with villages, people and bicycles. There was never a stretch of road without people nearby or bicycles passing by and if we stopped for a rest or to take photos we always found ourselves surrounded by curious little faces.









All the fuel stations we stopped at had no fuel but we finally managed to find some on the black market. 1L cost us R35 . We paid R350 for 10L. At the previous village they wanted R50 per litre. This was going to be a costly exercise. This petrol/money situation was becoming a bit of a problem as we were unable to pay with credit card and there were no ATM’s for us to withdraw cash. We were running out of cash and trying to exchange dollars into Malawi kwacha was crazy. They were offering MK 16000 for $100 which was way below the bank rate. Between us we were carrying an extra 23L of fuel but we were saving this for a real emergency.





A big sign on the right hand side of the road directed us along a short stretch of road to Kande Beach which was very sandy but we got there without any mishaps. It appeared to be bit of a shabby place but very pleasant and tidy and managed by a friendly fellow called Dave. We hurriedly pitched our tent and without wasting any time headed off to the lake with a G & T in hand and for a swim. A lovely setting to end a lovely first days ride.

















"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2012, 04:33:32 pm »

KANDE BEACH to MIKOMA BEACH RESORT (Karonga)
Day 2:   Sunday ~ 11 December ‘11
Distance: +/- 230 km
Time:  8.00 – 3.00 pm

The overlanders made their presence felt with loud music and raucous behaviour – but despite this we still had a good nights sleep. Enjoyed an early morning cup of coffee on the beach and took some more photos. This was when we noticed in the distance these dark shapes over the lake. These are Lake Flies. After hatching on the waters surface the females fly upwards, followed by the males. Mating then takes place. They have a 24 hr life cycle. If the wind blows them onto the land they make such a mess, getting into every ‘nook and cranny’. The locals catch them with nets, and fry them together with tomato and onion, making a very nutricous patty.
















After setting off we followed a very scenic route northwards. Shortly after the Nkata Bay turnoff we started to ascend into the mountains. The roads were lovely, windy and steep in places with stunning surroundings – lush, green vegetation. The higher we rode the chillier it got and the rain added to the chill. We passed through a rubber plantation and stopped to check it out. The cup ( not visible here ) that the white liquid rubber drains into is protected from the rain by the plastic sheet that you see wrapped around the tree trunk.






We rode into the first petrol station at Mzuzu to enquire about fuel. The people were very helpful and soon we were following a police driven vehicle with a sign ‘scene of crime’ on the door. We followed them out of town into a suburb and down a few little lanes. Now I started to get a bit anxious. Why should we trust these people. But, my ‘gut’ feeling was still OK. We stopped outside a nice looking home and within minutes people came out and we exchanged cash for fuel. R 50 for 1L of fuel !!!  Outrageously expensive, but we had no other alternative. The fuel situation was becoming quite stressful as we knew our budget wouldn’t cope with many more surprises. 





We continued through some amazing scenery, rode down a valley alongside a river with mountains on either side of us and a bit of construction going on – thanks to the Chinese.





We started to descend down a steep, windy pass towards the lake and it reminded me of the Western Cape with the beautiful passes and scenery. The views of the lake were stunning and where ever possible we stopped so that we could try and absorb this beauty around us.











"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2012, 04:45:33 pm »


Villages are spread out alongside the road the whole way up the lake. What is so sad is the fact that all the fish drying racks are empty. When we last visited, 25 years ago, every village boasted racks upon racks of fish drying in the sun. The fishermen, no doubt, are now having to work a lot harder for a lot less.












 We had We decided to visit Livingstonia on our return trip as it was already afternoon and we still had to find accommodation in KARONGA. This was a busy little village and the places we checked out were not very inviting. Club Marina looked a bit dilapidated with a view of huge reservoir tanks. Mufwa Lakeside centre was no better and looked very run down and abandoned. We headed off 5 km north to Beach Chamber Hotel and once again were disappointed as there were too many locals milling around both within and out of the broken fenced area and it didn’t look a secure place to pitch a tent. We were now both tired and getting desperate for a place to rest.

I recalled seeing a sign advertising the NIKOMA BEACH RESORT but was unsure of the distance. So we headed back south and 10 km later turned off and found a very smart, clean and well maintained resort. I now remember ‘googling’ this place and found it to be extremely expensive. Peter, the manager( who we found out later was from Pietermaritzburg) came out to greet us  and informed us of the rates, R600 per room and no camping. Well, we definitely didn’t want the room and I think he took sympathy on us and suggested we camp on the beach and use the ablutions in the guest room closest to us. How was that for luck. We were delighted.
 I felt like a teenager again camping out on the beach. They are busy clearing an area for a campsite so perhaps in the near future it will be available.

  After enjoying a dinner of ‘chambo’ (their local fish) and chips we crawled into bed. That night the wind howled and brought the rain. We had to sit up against the tent to prevent it from flattening out, however it didn’t last long and we managed to get some rest.


















"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline BlueBull2007

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2012, 05:16:55 pm »
Excellent stuff, keep it coming!
Rally nut. What could possibly go wrong?
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Current bike: KTM 350 EXC   Previous bikes:  2010 WR450F, 2006 KTM450EXC,KTM 450RR, BMW800GS, KTM450EXC, BMW650 GS, BMW650 Dakar, and Honda XR250
 

Offline madmax

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2012, 05:25:36 pm »
lovely
fornicate the proletariat
 

Offline goingnowherequickly

Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #17 on: February 05, 2012, 06:59:08 pm »
Been so looking forward to this..
 :thumleft:
Pity about all the border nonsense...
thanks for posting
 

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #18 on: February 05, 2012, 10:21:56 pm »
fantastic stuff, you take me back to when I did Malawi, we followed a very similar route to you.. so you decided to give Livinstonia a miss, if you come back down that way you must go past, I will send you a PM of some places to stay and to eat on your way back down you seem to be having a rough time finding a nice place. To be fair i was at Kande beach in 2009 and it was in much better condition than I see in your photo's but the overlander trucks were just as noisy but we raided their spice racks.

I am blown away by the petrol price, the black market is a big money making scheme in many places, we had the same problem in Zambia but it was max R15 / R17 per L, so I am amazed at the price you are being charged. I hope your fuel situation gets sorted soon, be very careful.. if yo udon't have a fuel tester use your nose as best you can and filter it as best you can, they mix the fuel with anything to make it go further.

Keep it coming.. loving this rr and really looking forward to further North
Africa trip, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania & Moz rr http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=61231.0
 

Offline KTM Jagermeister

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Re: RIDING the RIFT ~ East Africa 2011
« Reply #19 on: February 06, 2012, 07:53:42 am »
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