New CS sprocket, output shaft more resistance

[sidetrack]

So I fitted a PBR cs sprocket, 15 tooth correct model nice tight fit. When I tried to put the circlip on there was just not enough space but it was close. I could see a slight gap between the shaft and sprocket so I tapped the circlip in place with a big flat screwdriver and it slipped into the groove. But when I turn on the countershaft with my fingers I feel more resistance than before, like the sprocket is pushing harder on the bushing / spacer between itself and the gearbox. Anyone experience this ?

[Great White]

I have played around with a PBR 14 and 15 and have not had any problems.

[dirtWarp]

I would use a vernier calliper and measure the thickness of both CS sprockets.

[BiG DoM]

I also struggled a bit with a Stealth 15T to get circlip on - I made sure the mating surfaces were waterpapered clean, groove clean etc and fit was also tight but did go on - sounds same as yours. Did not notice any extra resistance. Are you sure not just normal resistance?

[alanB]

I'm also having the same trouble with the PBR front sprocket.

I measure the standard one and its 10.8mm and the PBR is 11.1.  The circlip doesn't look like its going to fit in without persuasion which I don't think is a good idea.  You need this thing to fit properly!

I've decided to delay the change of the sprocket/chain etc for during the week, and rather go for a ride now.  I'll decide what to do then.

[blazes]

Be careful there are a heap of sprockets --aftermarket out there that are not fitting like they should. A Husky sprocket should fit on very easily as a tight fit could damage the drive train --- had three from a dealer a while back that were NOT correct. If you have to force it on --its not the right one imho.

[alanB]

Took my new PBR front sprocket back to Primrose.  It was only slightly out - 11.1 vs 10.8mm, but I wasn't happy trying to force the circlip into the slot, which I probably could have done.

The last thing you need is the circlip slipping out while you are riding because it wasn't seated properly.     Or cause a bearing to fail because you've pulled the whole thing up too tight by forcing the circlip in.

I swapped it for the standard Husky front sprocket which was R75 more.  It was the right width, so the circlip fitted easily, but was also quite a lot looser on the splines than the PBR which was a nice snug fit   I wasn't that happy with the play!  After humming and haaing about taking the Husky sprocket back as well, I put some thick wheel bearing grease on the shaft and that took up all the play.  I'll check it during the week to see what its like now after the ride.  I didnt want to sit around this weekend when I should be out training.

I went three teeth up on the back sprocket which made a really nice difference.    

The bike now feels  like a nimble dirt bike again!  After I put the large tank on the handling went from nimble and sure footed to a bit of a lumbering oaf.  The front wheel became quite twitchy and tended to plow, or wash out  if you weren't wide awake.  For some reason the change in gearing has made it handle much better again.  I think its just given the bike the ability to lift the weight off the front when you open the throttle which makes a massive difference when riding a tight tracks and technical bits.  Its much easier to ride berms and tight corners now and you dont have to fight the front as much 

I could still cruise at 120-130 on the highway without revving it too much as well.  (Its a 6% difference).

I are happy 

Plus I bought a really small neat chain breaker at the Full Throttle sale which made fitting the chain a real pleasure 

[dirtWarp]

Grease on CS shaft is a bad idea.
My friend had to be towed from Mozambique to Dar es Salaam, due to a CS seal which leaked oil onto the shaft of his 525.

The dust + oil created a grinding paste which killed the sprocket.
Only use loctite on the shaft and clean the grease and oil off the CS sprocket regularly.

Keep in mind that our experience regarding this relates to powerful KTM's and Bergs, so the grease might not be an issue in your case  

[alanB]

Grease on CS shaft is a bad idea.
My friend had to be towed from Mozambique to Dar es Salaam, due to a CS seal which leaked oil onto the shaft of his 525.

The dust + oil created a grinding paste which killed the sprocket.
Only use loctite on the shaft and clean the grease and oil off the CS sprocket regularly.

Keep in mind that our experience regarding this relates to powerful KTM's and Bergs, so the grease might not be an issue in your case  

Maybe they should put harder shafts into those powerful KTM's and Bergs? 

But thanks for the warning.  I'll clean out the grease and try Loctite during the week.

[dirtWarp]

You are welcome.

Was just joking about the powerful bikes 
The oil migrated to the outer part of the sprocket (where the chain runs). The sprocket's teeth were worked away.

I looked for the ride report on ADVrider, unfortunately the picture's links doesn't work anymore 

[sidetrack]

Also noticed play on the cs sprocket when removing the stock unit. I worry since HHHusky had to replace a worn counter shaft, was it caused by a loose fitting sprocket ? I woukd rather run the PBR then and get a machine shop to take off some metal to fit the circlip easier.

[alanB]

I took the sprocket off (it was moving quite a bit with just the grease after one ride).

I cleaned it and put it back with blue loctite on the splines.  I was careful to try and tack up the slack in the direction it would turn.

I went for a ride yesterday and checked it again last night.  Seems fine, cant feel any play at all.

Not sure how difficult its going to be to get it off but we'll face that problem when the time comes.

PS I must say with the 48 rear sprocket the bike is really fun to ride now - feels like a proper off road bike. 

I've also decided to remove the Dakar screen for the Amageza - just another thing that can get broken in a fall.  Riding the bike without a screen again is quite novel - it feels more like an MX bike, much less noise and buffeting in my helmet on the highway, cross winds are really irritating though ripping my head around all over the show!  But once you are off tar it much nicer without the screen - just feels like a dirt bike should.

[sidetrack]

I took the sprocket off (it was moving quite a bit with just the grease after one ride).

I cleaned it and put it back with blue loctite on the splines.  I was careful to try and tack up the slack in the direction it would turn.

I went for a ride yesterday and checked it again last night.  Seems fine, cant feel any play at all.

Not sure how difficult its going to be to get it off but we'll face that problem when the time comes.

Puller will sort that out, just stick to blue loctitie not red.