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Thanks for the comments. This took longer to write up than to ride! ChrisL: sorry for the typo, we crossed into Botswana at Gobabis and yes, via Windhoek. Grootfontein would probably have been further, unless one goes through Boesmanland and via Drotsky's Caves. That bit is slow and sandy...

The anticipation of today’s border crossing means a light sleep and early getaway. It feels like we’re on the home stretch, even though there are still nearly 3000km to cover. By coffee time we are near the granite mine of Chibemba. Big blocks lie scattered along the road- quite useful as a...

We need to get make progress in getting home, and although the setting of the lodge is pretty, it’s wet and windy. If you’re not a fisherman, it’s difficult to find a reason to hang around here, and we really don’t want to repeat last night’s effort to get back to Namibe. Rico says it will...

There are some people who will actively seek out gravel tracks, sand dunes or riverbeds to get their biking kicks. I’m not one of them. For the long trips that we do, I will take the most suitable and interesting roads to balance pleasure, effort and risk. So we happily hit a pristine tar road...

Thanks for the positive comments. This trip report may be getting rather long, but when I did the planning I found information about Angola beyond the Doodsakker, as well as the equator region, really elusive. Hopefully this report will provide a better insight into a country that is still...

It’s an uncomfortable and sticky night as we fight a running battle until our insect spray runs out. By daybreak the tent floor is littered with our tormentors who paid the ultimate price. We are indeed at the edge of some marshy bog and have a hurried breakfast for an early departure. We...

It does not take long to strap our luggage back where it belongs, get our bearings and head for the coast. We chatter through the traffic about our good fortune to have met Barbara and getting our bikes back again. Both Tornados still run like clockwork and it’s great to be moving once more- we...

We’ve given little thought to the small matter of finding accommodation in what is rumoured to be the most expensive city in the world (yeah, really) and home to some 8 million people. One option we know of is the yacht club, where one can reportedly camp for free, but trying to locate and...

So: where to next? Pointe-Noire is still 150km from the northern edge of Angola, at least a day by boat from here. Cabinda is the logical destination where our return path will be decided. The GPS says it’s 137km to the capital (also called Cabinda). It’s a misty morning and traffic is...

It’s about 500 km from Brazzaville to Pointe Noire, and we’re roughly halfway. How's that for a campsite? …and a visitor dropped in during the night. Since 5 AM we’ve heard the odd truck, but there is very little traffic here. We manage a fairly early getaway after getting spotted by a...

While we pack the next morning, one of the church elders comes over to hand us two papayas as padkos. The hospitality of this community accommodating two perfect strangers, with no expectation of reward, is humbling and the only payment they eventually accept is a donation to their church. Wow...

Thanks for the positive comments and sorry for the tardy postings, but we will get to the end eventually. Hi Petri, you don't need to quote the entire post to ask about one photo... They have both done just short of 20 000 km. Loop soos stroop. Great choice for this trip.

Each journey to a distant destination holds the tantalising challenge of a return leg. A worrying thought has been gnawing away at us during our stay at Sangha Lodge- our DRC visas were issued for multiple entry, but are only valid for one month. That month started ticking away on our...

Happily, our tour operator had already washed and loaded up the bikes when we arose after a sumptuous breakfast the next morning. All we had to do was to hop on the plane and head back h... oops, wrong thread Return leg to follow. Shortly.

Apart from offering sightseeing trips into the Reserve, the Lodge also runs a rehabilitation program for injured animals and birds confiscated from poachers or saved from the bushmeat trade. Maja is the (Swiss) veterinarian in charge of this, and she is assisted by Komo (a pygmy from the local...

Today is yesterday’s tomorrow. It’s overcast, but we’re going on another outing. It is considerably further to today’s destination, and last night’s storm has blown quite a few trees over. Most forest trees here seem to have fibrous roots and the forest floor is soft, muddy and covered with...

The only vaccination requirement for entry into the equatorial countries is yellow fever, but only the DRC police bothered to check (only once) our carte jaune. HOWEVER, when we went for the shot, the doctor recommended a polio booster (the childhood vaccination wears off after ten years!) as...

Today we are visiting the Dzanga-Sangha Special Reserve, which covers some 680 000 hectares and was only proclaimed 30 years ago, like the Sangha Tri-national park south of here. The Reserve is located near the southern tip of the Central African Republic (CAR) and its eastern boundary is also...

Some background on the Wildlife Conservation Society: The WCS is an American organisation founded more than a century ago to preserve wildlife and their habitats. Unsurprisingly, one of its founding members was Teddy Roosevelt. It is well funded, with an annual budget of more than $300M, and...

The next morning everything is covered in dew and we have lots of visitors lapping it up! Fortunately, no mosquitos here. Shortly after resuming our ride, we pass the main gate to Odzala, and more police checks. Progress is smooth- they’re still setting up shop. The air is  deliciously cool...