Husky Boy
Pack Dog
This is my first RR and also my first real trip on a bike. History repeats itself enough, but just a rough sketch of mine would include doubts and mostly lack of mechanical understanding , but loads of adventure flowing through my veins. I don’t have all the biking kit as I’ve just used the TW to play around in the surrounding Knysna forests …never thought that I’d be able to enjoy or complete a long trip with it, until the day I met fellow WD RCerrie and of course my brother (with his Yamaha XT600) who has asked me to join him on all those lovely dirt roads to Jansenville. With my first “big” trip of just about 600km there and back behind me – I was totally amazed that I could actually travel with the TW! Jaco (aka RCerrie) showed me loads of interesting RR’s on WD and it was through his inspiration that I actually joined the forum. Thanks Jaco!
Okay, so this is the RR. We are in Knysna and my brother (aka Chris) was planning a trip from here to Augrabies, down the west coast and back again…I wasn’t part of the plan, seeing that I had other obligations to attend to…so I never really got all the details, as he was planning to do it with a friend and the friends’ friend…I just heard bits and pieces of their ideas every now and then. But with more complications and a possibility of his friend not being able to make it – he turned to me and asked me if I’d join him on his mission…with all other variables falling into place, the answer was quick and easy! YES! Classically, the other two guys ended up going with as planned, but by then, I was already geared to go – so I scored a trip! My brother rides a Yamaha XT600 as you know, his friend Graeme rides a BMW1150GS and his friend, Jules, the BMW 1200GS and then there’s me, with my TW200! Ha ha! With only two days to prepare myself, I got ready for the big adventure! It was just about 4pm on a Friday afternoon, with rainy clouds and a chill in the air, when my broter and I left home (Rheenendal) via the 7 Passes, starting with the Homtini on our way to Oudshoorn, to spend the night with family and leaving the next morning from there. Even though this part of the trip was familiar territory, I always enjoy it and appreciate the beauty that’s being presented. Graeme and Jules will meet us in Leeugamka the next day.
The next morning we left Oudshoorn on our way to Leeugamka via Prince Albert pass…it was really cold that morning and my warmest non-biking kit failed to keep me warm over that pass. The road was wet and muddy and a thick layer of mist covered the top of the mountain and I led the way in eager search of heat on the other side!! I was so stoked to see rays of sunshine that I never realized my gear lever froze as well and actually came loose and fell off, only until I had to change gears again just before a small uphill…Chris saw me stop and I told him I lost my gear lever and he turned around before I could tell him that it could only be about 1km back where I lost it…I got off and walked back to try and find it…Chris went all the way to the top of the bitter cold mountain, but on his way down he found it and we quickly put it back on and for the rest of the way down I made sure my foot felt the lever all the time… At the bottom of the pass I heard a funny whistling noise and I just thought it’s because of the nice smooth gravel, but it was in fact a flat tyre… my second little mishap within 5mins of each other… Got to Prince Albert, one of my favourite little towns, went to a garage, met some funny guys and got a new tube, a new screw for the gear lever and a lovely bottle of Bergwater red wine. (If you’re ever in that part of the world and if you do enjoy a glass of red, be sure to get a bottle of Bergwater…any blend, but I find the 2008 Cabernet, Reserve to be extremely good!) All fixed, we headed towards Leeugamka… but within the first 10minutes on that dirt road, Graeme and Jules caught up with us.
We stopped at a garage in Leeugamka for a quick coffee and fuel…I have to re-fuel with every chance I get! Graeme and Jules left 5min before us on the 110km stretch of tar to Fraserburg…me and Chris being the obvious slower drivers stopped for another quick bite and photo and according to Jules they waited exactly 1hour for us to arrive…got fuel…and headed straight to Williston…upon asking the petrol attendant about the condition of the road he said it’s fairly good, “the ambulance uses it…”
About 8km outside Williston we got to a T-junction where Chris wanted to do a quick check on the GPS to see where we should go if we want to reach Verneukpan for our first sleep-over as a team. After a few minutes we head straight, but the amazing thing was that every single bakkie stopped to ask whether we need help, every single one…Welcome to the Northern Cape they say!!
A few km further Jules hit a bad ditch and bust his back tyre…I was riding behind him and saw that he took quite a knock, so conveniently I changed my lane…but then I saw him slowing down and stop, his back tyre tore on the side…not good! We all stopped to help and investigate the seriousness of it and debating whether it’s a fixable problem or a temporary remedy…more farmers driving past and again, they stop, radio for help and arrange that we take a short drive back to a farmer closest to our location, where help is waiting! This is where the trip began to become really interesting!!
Oom Appie & Tannie Davina Jordaan
So after some efforts to try and get the tyre to some degree of functionality, we had no option but to turn around to the arranged farm, Rietpoort where Oom Appie and Tannie Davina Jordaan stood waiting for us. Upon arrival Tannie Davina served us with a good cup of coffee and some killer farm baked rusks…whilst Oom Appie got the necessary tools for taking off a tyre… We finally got the tyre fixed and fitted again and we enjoyed a second cup of coffee with more killer rusks, but it is dark by now, and according to Chris, still about 60 odd km to Verneukpan! The Tannie was quite adamant that we spend the night there, but when the opportunity presented itself, Jules broke the awkward silence by saying “Nee, Ons is op ‘n Missie”. Now, you must understand, Jules is Flemish and his sense of humor sharp and twisted, yet meaningful and precise! His accent is his special ingredient that adds that extra flavour! And I then understood why he kept saying a strange word when he saw the state of his back wheel…”VERDOEME!” With that said, we said our goodbyes and left for Verneukpan. In my own personal humble opinion, this was the hardest part of the trip for me, 60km of bad roads, poor sight and lots of dust…I was the 3rd rider with Graeme behind/next to me, sharing some of his light…but I was lucky not to come off…I should’ve many times, I could hardly stay in my lane… Graeme lost one of his side panniers without even noticing anything!
Finally we got to our destination and for some strange reason, we all felt kinda cheated by Verneukpan! We got the gate key from Louis, the farm owner and he gave us a faint warning of thick sand ahead, before we get to the pan! Jules came off twice and Graeme once, slow speed…nothing serious! Eleven pm and we finally got to the Camp… it was cold for a normal evening in April and we quickly got our tents up, and the little kettle going for a cup whilst Chris was klapping some chow together! I opened the bottle of Bergwater, Rendezvous Red(they didn’t have the 2008 Cabernet) and Graeme, Jules and myself enjoyed a glass! We ate and we got to bed 1am! The next morning we actually got to see the pan. It was such a great honor to be there and the 3 of us went to pay Louis for the use of his facilities whilst Jules stayed at the camp site. We played on the pan and had a nice chat with Louis. He was busy plowing alien-type circles on the side of the pan, to improve and stimulate growth.
We headed back to camp and got ready to leave for Kenhart.
It was a nice drive from Verneukpan to Kenhart, I really enjoyed it and I must say, it was very nice to see some growth again…the pan, the wind and the isolation got me in a semi-depro vibe, and that’s where I thought of my wife, my 6 Husky-kids and the plenty of green around us…I would compare this feeling to South African guys in the UK facing gray days on end, missing the sunny shores of SA! But as we drove off, the feeling left me just as it left the land-speed-record! We stopped at Ouma Miemie’s for a good brunch and hooked our last stretch to Augrabies.
When we got to Augrabies, we stocked up on some goodies…especially Graeme, as a lot of his kit was lost in his pannier! 5km before the Augrabies Falls National Park, Graeme heard Jules hooting from behind…his back tyre now completely ruined. The gather couldn’t take the punch any longer and Jules had to ride it flat to our camp spot in the Park. (I am sure he said “Verdoeme!!” a couple of times!) To add salt to the wound, Jules had to pay 4 times more than us because of his foreign Passport… Graeme told him that he could have a nice extra long shower and Jules just lifted his hand showing 4 fingers, implying a 4 times longer shower than the rest of us…we just laughed! Ironically, Jules was the only guy who didn’t want to go to the “Place of great Noise” even though he paid 4 times more to be there…he said he saw it before…the rest of us hurried quickly, as the day had only about 20mins of available light left for a photo or two…so we went to check it out, whilst Jules got his tent ready!
When we got back we quickly got ourselves ready as well and then had to start thinking about chow…no firewood, no real idea of what to prepare! I saw an elderly couple braai-ing nearby and said that their coals are perfect, we must just bring our meat, and they totally welcomed the gesture! So we took some nice matured steaks and whipped it on their perfect coals and had an instant braai, a good cup and some chocolate for dessert, a nice shower and a nice chat and off to bed. We also decided that Chris and myself will continue the next morning with the journey, leaving Graeme and Jules behind, until they can find a new tyre, seeing that we got to Augrabies late on a Saturday afternoon, they had to wait until Monday, before they could locate a tyre in Upington. So we parted ways and Chris and myself left for Pofadder. We accidentally took a wrong turn and was heading straight for the Namibian border, if it wasn’t for a beautiful farm we saw where we stopped for a photo…
Chris then checked the GPS (as was his custom) and checked that we took a wrong turn…so we had to go back a few km’s! Nice scenery though! Some classic signs and wonders on those back roads!
Then finally, we got to Pofadder!
From Pofadder we made a decision to hook it via tar to save some time, seeing that our total distance to cover for the day was 640km…so tar all the way to Springbok…after those styling dirt roads, you want to fall asleep on the tar at 90km/h and when I’m really pushing it, a 100km/h! We stopped at the Wimpy in Springbok, not for lunch, but to say hi to the owner, whose mom and dad were the people who helped us in Williston, Oom Appie and Tannie Davina. Their son, Johan also informed us that friends of his parents found Graeme’s pannier and that they’d be sending it to him with the first occasion to Oudshoorn…again, their willingness to help amazed me! We left Springbok, hooking tar all the way as we race against the setting sun and we stopped in the little town of Garies. We quickly got fuel and I asked a local lady sitting close-by if she knew where ‘Tant Grietjie lives…she said she’s just up the road in Daisy street…for those of you who don’t know who ‘Tant Grietjie is, she is a local legend and she’s been on TV a few times, David Kramer discovered her if I remember correctly, but anyway, Legend she is! She’s also famous for her song “Lekker ou Jan” and her pink “kappie”! We found her spot easily and the people in the street quickly took us to her home, where we said hello the the friendly, kindhearted little Legend ‘Tant Grietjie! We then left for Strandfontein, our destination for the night and finally got to a nice piece of gravel…and then the last little stretch on tar again! Got the the campsite, hooked our tent, got some chow going and of course, a good cup and the usual routine before we dos!
The next morning we leave for Lamberts Bay, taking the railway service road. We got to the boom where we have to pay for our permits to use the road. The gate-keeper greet us with a big smile, but typing on his cell phone with his one hand, clutching the permit book in the other…he then gave us the bargain, saying that permits are normally R30, but for us, today only, he’ll give it to us for a mere 20 bucks, that’s R10 discount! We insisted to pay the R30 which totally confused him, as he’d already informed the guy at the other gate about our discounted deal and that explained the cell phone distraction we were greeted with! I told him that we want to keep the permit as a souvenir , but he then quickly suggested that he could give us old permits for that purpose…anyway, totally dumbfounded by our request to rather pay the full price, we finally got the real R30 permit!
We had a very nice breakfast at Josie’s in the heart of Lamberts Bay, then we headed inland to Clanwilliam.
When we got to Clanwilliam, we stopped to get some more supplies, and while Chris did the shopping some local “dronkie” came up to me when he saw me taking photo’s of the surroundings…he asked if I could take a photo of him…at first I wasn’t really keen, if you have to take photo’s of all the “dronkies” you’ll have no space on your digital film to record the trip! But after rebuking him politely, I felt that perhaps his request to remember him as part of the trip is not such a bad idea, and knowing that we are like flowers of the field, here today and gone tomorrow, I called him closer and he gave me the weirdest unrealistic dronkie pose that I had to rebuke him politely once more until he was posing the way I wanted to remember him by, semi-sober kinda pose! Anyway, in memory of old Dronkie!
Got our stash and off we go through the Ceder mountains… probably the most scenic part of the trip, truly beautiful! A nice but bumpy road! Unfortunately due to technical problems, I couldn’t take any more photo’s…
From here we went to Montagu where we stayed over in the local campsite, hooked our tent got some chow going, but as I was busy preparing the little espresso kettle, I realized that we somehow left or lost our coffee along the road…so, no nice cup and it was the perfect evening for one! The next morning we left Montagu taking the Route 62 road, but then we hooked a right just after Barrydale, then we took all those beautiful back roads to Great Brak, then we took that old airport road to George and again the 7 Passes back home.
We did a total of 2411km and I was really impressed with that TW of mine! Graeme and Jules unfortunately couldn’t catch up with us, but it was a very cool trip and I’m totally keen to do another mission! I am thinking of upgrading to a slightly bigger bike…I really dig the off-road look, so I’m thinking of selling the TW for a Honda XR 400R…any tips or suggestions/advice?
This trip has left me hungry for more!!!
Okay, so this is the RR. We are in Knysna and my brother (aka Chris) was planning a trip from here to Augrabies, down the west coast and back again…I wasn’t part of the plan, seeing that I had other obligations to attend to…so I never really got all the details, as he was planning to do it with a friend and the friends’ friend…I just heard bits and pieces of their ideas every now and then. But with more complications and a possibility of his friend not being able to make it – he turned to me and asked me if I’d join him on his mission…with all other variables falling into place, the answer was quick and easy! YES! Classically, the other two guys ended up going with as planned, but by then, I was already geared to go – so I scored a trip! My brother rides a Yamaha XT600 as you know, his friend Graeme rides a BMW1150GS and his friend, Jules, the BMW 1200GS and then there’s me, with my TW200! Ha ha! With only two days to prepare myself, I got ready for the big adventure! It was just about 4pm on a Friday afternoon, with rainy clouds and a chill in the air, when my broter and I left home (Rheenendal) via the 7 Passes, starting with the Homtini on our way to Oudshoorn, to spend the night with family and leaving the next morning from there. Even though this part of the trip was familiar territory, I always enjoy it and appreciate the beauty that’s being presented. Graeme and Jules will meet us in Leeugamka the next day.
The next morning we left Oudshoorn on our way to Leeugamka via Prince Albert pass…it was really cold that morning and my warmest non-biking kit failed to keep me warm over that pass. The road was wet and muddy and a thick layer of mist covered the top of the mountain and I led the way in eager search of heat on the other side!! I was so stoked to see rays of sunshine that I never realized my gear lever froze as well and actually came loose and fell off, only until I had to change gears again just before a small uphill…Chris saw me stop and I told him I lost my gear lever and he turned around before I could tell him that it could only be about 1km back where I lost it…I got off and walked back to try and find it…Chris went all the way to the top of the bitter cold mountain, but on his way down he found it and we quickly put it back on and for the rest of the way down I made sure my foot felt the lever all the time… At the bottom of the pass I heard a funny whistling noise and I just thought it’s because of the nice smooth gravel, but it was in fact a flat tyre… my second little mishap within 5mins of each other… Got to Prince Albert, one of my favourite little towns, went to a garage, met some funny guys and got a new tube, a new screw for the gear lever and a lovely bottle of Bergwater red wine. (If you’re ever in that part of the world and if you do enjoy a glass of red, be sure to get a bottle of Bergwater…any blend, but I find the 2008 Cabernet, Reserve to be extremely good!) All fixed, we headed towards Leeugamka… but within the first 10minutes on that dirt road, Graeme and Jules caught up with us.
We stopped at a garage in Leeugamka for a quick coffee and fuel…I have to re-fuel with every chance I get! Graeme and Jules left 5min before us on the 110km stretch of tar to Fraserburg…me and Chris being the obvious slower drivers stopped for another quick bite and photo and according to Jules they waited exactly 1hour for us to arrive…got fuel…and headed straight to Williston…upon asking the petrol attendant about the condition of the road he said it’s fairly good, “the ambulance uses it…”
About 8km outside Williston we got to a T-junction where Chris wanted to do a quick check on the GPS to see where we should go if we want to reach Verneukpan for our first sleep-over as a team. After a few minutes we head straight, but the amazing thing was that every single bakkie stopped to ask whether we need help, every single one…Welcome to the Northern Cape they say!!
A few km further Jules hit a bad ditch and bust his back tyre…I was riding behind him and saw that he took quite a knock, so conveniently I changed my lane…but then I saw him slowing down and stop, his back tyre tore on the side…not good! We all stopped to help and investigate the seriousness of it and debating whether it’s a fixable problem or a temporary remedy…more farmers driving past and again, they stop, radio for help and arrange that we take a short drive back to a farmer closest to our location, where help is waiting! This is where the trip began to become really interesting!!
Oom Appie & Tannie Davina Jordaan
So after some efforts to try and get the tyre to some degree of functionality, we had no option but to turn around to the arranged farm, Rietpoort where Oom Appie and Tannie Davina Jordaan stood waiting for us. Upon arrival Tannie Davina served us with a good cup of coffee and some killer farm baked rusks…whilst Oom Appie got the necessary tools for taking off a tyre… We finally got the tyre fixed and fitted again and we enjoyed a second cup of coffee with more killer rusks, but it is dark by now, and according to Chris, still about 60 odd km to Verneukpan! The Tannie was quite adamant that we spend the night there, but when the opportunity presented itself, Jules broke the awkward silence by saying “Nee, Ons is op ‘n Missie”. Now, you must understand, Jules is Flemish and his sense of humor sharp and twisted, yet meaningful and precise! His accent is his special ingredient that adds that extra flavour! And I then understood why he kept saying a strange word when he saw the state of his back wheel…”VERDOEME!” With that said, we said our goodbyes and left for Verneukpan. In my own personal humble opinion, this was the hardest part of the trip for me, 60km of bad roads, poor sight and lots of dust…I was the 3rd rider with Graeme behind/next to me, sharing some of his light…but I was lucky not to come off…I should’ve many times, I could hardly stay in my lane… Graeme lost one of his side panniers without even noticing anything!
Finally we got to our destination and for some strange reason, we all felt kinda cheated by Verneukpan! We got the gate key from Louis, the farm owner and he gave us a faint warning of thick sand ahead, before we get to the pan! Jules came off twice and Graeme once, slow speed…nothing serious! Eleven pm and we finally got to the Camp… it was cold for a normal evening in April and we quickly got our tents up, and the little kettle going for a cup whilst Chris was klapping some chow together! I opened the bottle of Bergwater, Rendezvous Red(they didn’t have the 2008 Cabernet) and Graeme, Jules and myself enjoyed a glass! We ate and we got to bed 1am! The next morning we actually got to see the pan. It was such a great honor to be there and the 3 of us went to pay Louis for the use of his facilities whilst Jules stayed at the camp site. We played on the pan and had a nice chat with Louis. He was busy plowing alien-type circles on the side of the pan, to improve and stimulate growth.
We headed back to camp and got ready to leave for Kenhart.
It was a nice drive from Verneukpan to Kenhart, I really enjoyed it and I must say, it was very nice to see some growth again…the pan, the wind and the isolation got me in a semi-depro vibe, and that’s where I thought of my wife, my 6 Husky-kids and the plenty of green around us…I would compare this feeling to South African guys in the UK facing gray days on end, missing the sunny shores of SA! But as we drove off, the feeling left me just as it left the land-speed-record! We stopped at Ouma Miemie’s for a good brunch and hooked our last stretch to Augrabies.
When we got to Augrabies, we stocked up on some goodies…especially Graeme, as a lot of his kit was lost in his pannier! 5km before the Augrabies Falls National Park, Graeme heard Jules hooting from behind…his back tyre now completely ruined. The gather couldn’t take the punch any longer and Jules had to ride it flat to our camp spot in the Park. (I am sure he said “Verdoeme!!” a couple of times!) To add salt to the wound, Jules had to pay 4 times more than us because of his foreign Passport… Graeme told him that he could have a nice extra long shower and Jules just lifted his hand showing 4 fingers, implying a 4 times longer shower than the rest of us…we just laughed! Ironically, Jules was the only guy who didn’t want to go to the “Place of great Noise” even though he paid 4 times more to be there…he said he saw it before…the rest of us hurried quickly, as the day had only about 20mins of available light left for a photo or two…so we went to check it out, whilst Jules got his tent ready!
When we got back we quickly got ourselves ready as well and then had to start thinking about chow…no firewood, no real idea of what to prepare! I saw an elderly couple braai-ing nearby and said that their coals are perfect, we must just bring our meat, and they totally welcomed the gesture! So we took some nice matured steaks and whipped it on their perfect coals and had an instant braai, a good cup and some chocolate for dessert, a nice shower and a nice chat and off to bed. We also decided that Chris and myself will continue the next morning with the journey, leaving Graeme and Jules behind, until they can find a new tyre, seeing that we got to Augrabies late on a Saturday afternoon, they had to wait until Monday, before they could locate a tyre in Upington. So we parted ways and Chris and myself left for Pofadder. We accidentally took a wrong turn and was heading straight for the Namibian border, if it wasn’t for a beautiful farm we saw where we stopped for a photo…
Chris then checked the GPS (as was his custom) and checked that we took a wrong turn…so we had to go back a few km’s! Nice scenery though! Some classic signs and wonders on those back roads!
Then finally, we got to Pofadder!
From Pofadder we made a decision to hook it via tar to save some time, seeing that our total distance to cover for the day was 640km…so tar all the way to Springbok…after those styling dirt roads, you want to fall asleep on the tar at 90km/h and when I’m really pushing it, a 100km/h! We stopped at the Wimpy in Springbok, not for lunch, but to say hi to the owner, whose mom and dad were the people who helped us in Williston, Oom Appie and Tannie Davina. Their son, Johan also informed us that friends of his parents found Graeme’s pannier and that they’d be sending it to him with the first occasion to Oudshoorn…again, their willingness to help amazed me! We left Springbok, hooking tar all the way as we race against the setting sun and we stopped in the little town of Garies. We quickly got fuel and I asked a local lady sitting close-by if she knew where ‘Tant Grietjie lives…she said she’s just up the road in Daisy street…for those of you who don’t know who ‘Tant Grietjie is, she is a local legend and she’s been on TV a few times, David Kramer discovered her if I remember correctly, but anyway, Legend she is! She’s also famous for her song “Lekker ou Jan” and her pink “kappie”! We found her spot easily and the people in the street quickly took us to her home, where we said hello the the friendly, kindhearted little Legend ‘Tant Grietjie! We then left for Strandfontein, our destination for the night and finally got to a nice piece of gravel…and then the last little stretch on tar again! Got the the campsite, hooked our tent, got some chow going and of course, a good cup and the usual routine before we dos!
The next morning we leave for Lamberts Bay, taking the railway service road. We got to the boom where we have to pay for our permits to use the road. The gate-keeper greet us with a big smile, but typing on his cell phone with his one hand, clutching the permit book in the other…he then gave us the bargain, saying that permits are normally R30, but for us, today only, he’ll give it to us for a mere 20 bucks, that’s R10 discount! We insisted to pay the R30 which totally confused him, as he’d already informed the guy at the other gate about our discounted deal and that explained the cell phone distraction we were greeted with! I told him that we want to keep the permit as a souvenir , but he then quickly suggested that he could give us old permits for that purpose…anyway, totally dumbfounded by our request to rather pay the full price, we finally got the real R30 permit!
We had a very nice breakfast at Josie’s in the heart of Lamberts Bay, then we headed inland to Clanwilliam.
When we got to Clanwilliam, we stopped to get some more supplies, and while Chris did the shopping some local “dronkie” came up to me when he saw me taking photo’s of the surroundings…he asked if I could take a photo of him…at first I wasn’t really keen, if you have to take photo’s of all the “dronkies” you’ll have no space on your digital film to record the trip! But after rebuking him politely, I felt that perhaps his request to remember him as part of the trip is not such a bad idea, and knowing that we are like flowers of the field, here today and gone tomorrow, I called him closer and he gave me the weirdest unrealistic dronkie pose that I had to rebuke him politely once more until he was posing the way I wanted to remember him by, semi-sober kinda pose! Anyway, in memory of old Dronkie!
Got our stash and off we go through the Ceder mountains… probably the most scenic part of the trip, truly beautiful! A nice but bumpy road! Unfortunately due to technical problems, I couldn’t take any more photo’s…
From here we went to Montagu where we stayed over in the local campsite, hooked our tent got some chow going, but as I was busy preparing the little espresso kettle, I realized that we somehow left or lost our coffee along the road…so, no nice cup and it was the perfect evening for one! The next morning we left Montagu taking the Route 62 road, but then we hooked a right just after Barrydale, then we took all those beautiful back roads to Great Brak, then we took that old airport road to George and again the 7 Passes back home.
We did a total of 2411km and I was really impressed with that TW of mine! Graeme and Jules unfortunately couldn’t catch up with us, but it was a very cool trip and I’m totally keen to do another mission! I am thinking of upgrading to a slightly bigger bike…I really dig the off-road look, so I’m thinking of selling the TW for a Honda XR 400R…any tips or suggestions/advice?
This trip has left me hungry for more!!!
