KTM Jagermeister
Pack Dog
After lots of excitement we were ready for an epic ride. Departing from Pretoria, through Botswana into Zimbabwe … and back. Our destination in Zim was the Lady Jacqueline, a houseboat on Lake Kariba.
We decided it best to have a back-up vehicle that would slingshot and meet us at the camping sites or where necessary. Gordon and Vernon were driving the vehicle. We were five bikers on KTM 950 Adventures and me on the baby 640 Adventure. The group spirit was high and Vaughn made us branded caps and t-shirts with our nicknamed on the back (Boertjie, Flying Dutchman, Fat Bastard, etc.) Vernon really disliked his nickname so I’d rather not mention it.
Departing from Pretoria
The bikes departed from a garage in Church Street at 05h00. Peter came to wish us luck and we were off. As usual the aim is to do as little tar as possible and we succeeded brilliantly. The first evening would be at Kwa-Nokeng in Botswana where Wouter booked a lodge. We headed towards Stokpoort using every unknown dirt-road one could possibly imagine. I think the first real stretch of tar was when we headed into Thabazimbi for fuel. We stopped again in Steenbokpan for a hamburger and some beer.
Close to Thabazimbi
We were carrying everything on the bikes. Some of us overdid it a bit and had to cope with the temples of doom altering the weight distribution and the handling of the bikes. Luckily I was a lightweight and just smiled when Wayne complained bitterly. From the last beer to the border was another hour. Crossing into Botswana was no problem. We hit the dirt and eventually arrived at the lodge late that afternoon. A long day, but nothing like what laid ahead … The lodge owners are also serious bikers and often take groups out. He confirmed some routes and warned us against kudus and other stray animals.
Leaving from Kwa Nokeng
We were going again early the next morning. We wanted to sleep on the Botswana/Zimbabwe border and had lots of kilos to do. Did not take too long before we left the big open dirt roads. We headed through the Thuli block. Just after Solomon’s wall we had our first encounter with Elephants. A huge herd crossed our path. One feels rather insignificant compared to these bulls! Eventually we hit some tar and arrived in Francistown to refuel. There we met up with a friendly chap. On the side of the Landrover was a bottle of Captain Morgan and the words “ Don’t follow me, you won’t make it” … he was being towed.
Brian, a bit upset after I accidently splashed him ..
Solomon’s wall
We had a quick hamburger and hit the tar road again. We still had a huge distance to cover and it was getting dark. We would be joining up with the vehicle for the first time. They had fortunately already passes through and would be setting up camp somewhere close to the border. That night we had to ride close together to get as much combined light through the dusty/muddy light protectors as possible.
Eventually we found the Pajero parked at an idyllic spot next to the river. We put our tents up and got the conversation going with the help of Jagermeister.
Badtyd
The next day we were entering Zimbabwe…. Eish !
And indeed it was. The Zim government was in a state of emergency. From nowhere there arrived five men on big bikes, dressed in must look to them like armor. It took us a good two hours to clear this puny border post. We had to unpack everything, explain why we needed a sat phone, show our maps the works.
From the border we headed into a Mopani forest. I have never seen such big Mopanis in my life. Huge rivers crossed in between the trees. Patches of dark mud were an indication that one should not attempt this root when wet. The riding was exquisite and we soon forgot the problems of being in Zim. As a general rule the people are very friendly, but at the time we visited the Police forces were neurotic…
Eagle – very refreshing
Local town idiot – the undercover police officers are also in the crowed.
At the first big town we stopped for some beers (because we were thirsty again) and low and behold, we were detained , interrogated and searched. Fortunately we said nothing about the clown in charge of the country for then we would probably still be sitting there. After a lot of negotiation, but no bribes, we continued our journey north. (Idiots) We stopped next to a railway line. Wouter proclaimed it a special section, which means trouble!!! 150km of the thickest softest sickening sand you can imagine. We were riding next to the railway line, inside the game reserve.
The going was tough. I am reasonable to good on sand but this was hectic. I think I fell at least twice. The problem was that you had to build up speed, but there were little obstacles every 200m or so apart. Just as you reach a nice cruising speed you have to brake, swerve and start again. We had no time to appreciate the herds of wildebeest, giraffe and other animals that were in abundance next to the road. Poor Brian had the worst time. His temple of doom was so unsteady that he probably ran two thirds of the stage.
I fell right next to this bull … and then got up and going quickly again.
The reward after this day was that we slept at Hwanke Safari Lodge. Even though it was troubled times the place was in immaculate condition. The colonial luxuries suited us just fine. With the rand being at at 1:Zillion Zim dollars it was quite cheap as well. The people were friendly and the Gin and Tonic cold. Truthfully this is one of the most outstanding places I have ever stayed in!
Our suite
We eventually got going again the next morning. The boat was waiting for us, stocked with booze of our choice (if available), a chef and the captain. We did a tar section down to Kariba, stopping for some pictures of big baobabs and the odd smoke. The bikes and 4x4 were parked in a closed shed and we boarded our vessel. Life is wonderful.
Lady Jacqueline
We stayed for three days/two nights. Fishing, drinking, well mostly drinking I’d say for Wayne was the only one that actually caught a decent Tiger. Fortunately we did not have to rely on the fish we caught.
The Flying Dutchman (our captain) and Mr Personality
Well we eventually saddled up again. We headed on towards Pandamatenga. The crossing back into Botswana was without incident. It was sweltering hot. We found the most unbelievable little lodge with a swimming pool, stripped into our undies and dived in. The lady at the lodge prepared us a huge Botswana steak, hmmm.
Small town in northern Zim
From Pandamatenga we moved back towards the border with Zim. We headed south against the Hwange fence. We soon found a nice spot next to a little waterhole, pulled the bikes and the 4x4 into a laer and pitched the tents. We were tired and were off to dreamland in no time. The next morning we made certain that the fire was properly extinguished and searched for some footprints around the camp. There were some hyena tracks on the far side but no more.
The sand was once again thick, but fortunately there was lots of grass the road was straight. Unfortunately the grass was so thick in places that it became impossible to see exactly where the road was. We were flying and I realized that the extra power of the 950s came in very handy in the sand. By now we got rid of the temples on the back of the bikes and into the Pajero. The going was much easier. We saw plenty of elephants, buffalo, giraffe and the first prize, a cheetah that got up and casually ran in front of Wouter for almost a hundred meters.
… and then from nowhere, a Casper tire and a block of cement. I swerved and missed both, but Brian saw it too late. And so began his horrible front tire experience. The tube was a gonner and the tire had a large cut in it. We replaced the tube, but it only lasted 200 meters before it blew again, the gash in the tire was too big.
There was a spare front on the vehicle, but they headed back to the tar and were already in Nata, drinking St Louies . We had no cellphone reception. We decided that Brian, Vaughn and Wayne should slowly proceed to Elephant Sands, a lovely lodge that I stayed at some 2 months earlier while Wouter and I raced to Nata.
Since I knew the road I went in front. As I came around a corner I almost drove straight into an elephant. Fortunately the beast was even more frightened than me and was already running away with its tail between its legs, looking over its shoulders to see what kind of monster was chasing her. I slowed down (a lot). When we got back on the tar I realized that I too had bike problems. I lost some of the screws on my back sprocket and had to do emergency repairs in Nata.
Back at Elephant Sands we heard that Brian had another crash and was almost run over by a truck as he slid across the road. He was a nervous wreck (with reason). We stayed at the lodge the evening. The food was good but there was almost no Jagermeister … and that accidently ended up in our Coffee. Eish!
Relaxing at Elephant Sands near Nata
Since we were behind schedule the next day would be a real tester. The route was south on tar stopping at the Nata Bird sanctuary and then turning right onto dirt just after the second game fence. From this point it became interesting again… Fortunately it was “relatively” dry. We turned onto some dry pans and played a bit in the salt. Then headed south at high speed alongst a very long cutline.
Nata Bird Sanctuary
We got into a maze of dirt roads. Brian had a tire burst and crashed right in front of me. The problem was with the tubes we all purchased. We always use heavy duty tubes, but bought thin tubes to save space (at the same supplier). Since it was really shitty Chinese stuff and we were going fast with the big bikes, the tubes got ripped at the valves. Brian was in pain and simply refused to exceed 80km/h. We stayed lost in the maize until well after dark.
When we eventually reached the hotel the vehicle was nowhere to be found (with our clothes). Much later we heard that they had two flat tires on the way. Gordon who has spent half his life traveling through Africa only had one spare??? Vernon hitched a ride with some locals on the back of a bakkie. He reckons it was most reckless driving he ever encountered. Well they eventually arrived there much, much later.
The last day would be more than 800km, mostly dirt back home. The 950s were all running out of threat on the front tires. We decided to head to Kwa-Nokeng. On the way there, Brian’s front bust again. Luckily this time he did not crash. At Kwa-Nokeng we borrowed two second hand scrambler tires. Wouter fitted his while Vaughn through another on the back of his 950.
We eventually arrived back late that afternoon. Our usual trait is to stop for a last beer, but we were exhausted so we said goodbye and headed home.
What more can I say, “ KTM, jou lekker ding !!! ”
We decided it best to have a back-up vehicle that would slingshot and meet us at the camping sites or where necessary. Gordon and Vernon were driving the vehicle. We were five bikers on KTM 950 Adventures and me on the baby 640 Adventure. The group spirit was high and Vaughn made us branded caps and t-shirts with our nicknamed on the back (Boertjie, Flying Dutchman, Fat Bastard, etc.) Vernon really disliked his nickname so I’d rather not mention it.
Departing from Pretoria
The bikes departed from a garage in Church Street at 05h00. Peter came to wish us luck and we were off. As usual the aim is to do as little tar as possible and we succeeded brilliantly. The first evening would be at Kwa-Nokeng in Botswana where Wouter booked a lodge. We headed towards Stokpoort using every unknown dirt-road one could possibly imagine. I think the first real stretch of tar was when we headed into Thabazimbi for fuel. We stopped again in Steenbokpan for a hamburger and some beer.
Close to Thabazimbi
We were carrying everything on the bikes. Some of us overdid it a bit and had to cope with the temples of doom altering the weight distribution and the handling of the bikes. Luckily I was a lightweight and just smiled when Wayne complained bitterly. From the last beer to the border was another hour. Crossing into Botswana was no problem. We hit the dirt and eventually arrived at the lodge late that afternoon. A long day, but nothing like what laid ahead … The lodge owners are also serious bikers and often take groups out. He confirmed some routes and warned us against kudus and other stray animals.
Leaving from Kwa Nokeng
We were going again early the next morning. We wanted to sleep on the Botswana/Zimbabwe border and had lots of kilos to do. Did not take too long before we left the big open dirt roads. We headed through the Thuli block. Just after Solomon’s wall we had our first encounter with Elephants. A huge herd crossed our path. One feels rather insignificant compared to these bulls! Eventually we hit some tar and arrived in Francistown to refuel. There we met up with a friendly chap. On the side of the Landrover was a bottle of Captain Morgan and the words “ Don’t follow me, you won’t make it” … he was being towed.
Brian, a bit upset after I accidently splashed him ..
Solomon’s wall
We had a quick hamburger and hit the tar road again. We still had a huge distance to cover and it was getting dark. We would be joining up with the vehicle for the first time. They had fortunately already passes through and would be setting up camp somewhere close to the border. That night we had to ride close together to get as much combined light through the dusty/muddy light protectors as possible.
Eventually we found the Pajero parked at an idyllic spot next to the river. We put our tents up and got the conversation going with the help of Jagermeister.
Badtyd
The next day we were entering Zimbabwe…. Eish !
And indeed it was. The Zim government was in a state of emergency. From nowhere there arrived five men on big bikes, dressed in must look to them like armor. It took us a good two hours to clear this puny border post. We had to unpack everything, explain why we needed a sat phone, show our maps the works.
From the border we headed into a Mopani forest. I have never seen such big Mopanis in my life. Huge rivers crossed in between the trees. Patches of dark mud were an indication that one should not attempt this root when wet. The riding was exquisite and we soon forgot the problems of being in Zim. As a general rule the people are very friendly, but at the time we visited the Police forces were neurotic…
Eagle – very refreshing
Local town idiot – the undercover police officers are also in the crowed.
At the first big town we stopped for some beers (because we were thirsty again) and low and behold, we were detained , interrogated and searched. Fortunately we said nothing about the clown in charge of the country for then we would probably still be sitting there. After a lot of negotiation, but no bribes, we continued our journey north. (Idiots) We stopped next to a railway line. Wouter proclaimed it a special section, which means trouble!!! 150km of the thickest softest sickening sand you can imagine. We were riding next to the railway line, inside the game reserve.
The going was tough. I am reasonable to good on sand but this was hectic. I think I fell at least twice. The problem was that you had to build up speed, but there were little obstacles every 200m or so apart. Just as you reach a nice cruising speed you have to brake, swerve and start again. We had no time to appreciate the herds of wildebeest, giraffe and other animals that were in abundance next to the road. Poor Brian had the worst time. His temple of doom was so unsteady that he probably ran two thirds of the stage.
I fell right next to this bull … and then got up and going quickly again.
The reward after this day was that we slept at Hwanke Safari Lodge. Even though it was troubled times the place was in immaculate condition. The colonial luxuries suited us just fine. With the rand being at at 1:Zillion Zim dollars it was quite cheap as well. The people were friendly and the Gin and Tonic cold. Truthfully this is one of the most outstanding places I have ever stayed in!
Our suite
We eventually got going again the next morning. The boat was waiting for us, stocked with booze of our choice (if available), a chef and the captain. We did a tar section down to Kariba, stopping for some pictures of big baobabs and the odd smoke. The bikes and 4x4 were parked in a closed shed and we boarded our vessel. Life is wonderful.
Lady Jacqueline
We stayed for three days/two nights. Fishing, drinking, well mostly drinking I’d say for Wayne was the only one that actually caught a decent Tiger. Fortunately we did not have to rely on the fish we caught.
The Flying Dutchman (our captain) and Mr Personality
Well we eventually saddled up again. We headed on towards Pandamatenga. The crossing back into Botswana was without incident. It was sweltering hot. We found the most unbelievable little lodge with a swimming pool, stripped into our undies and dived in. The lady at the lodge prepared us a huge Botswana steak, hmmm.
Small town in northern Zim
From Pandamatenga we moved back towards the border with Zim. We headed south against the Hwange fence. We soon found a nice spot next to a little waterhole, pulled the bikes and the 4x4 into a laer and pitched the tents. We were tired and were off to dreamland in no time. The next morning we made certain that the fire was properly extinguished and searched for some footprints around the camp. There were some hyena tracks on the far side but no more.
The sand was once again thick, but fortunately there was lots of grass the road was straight. Unfortunately the grass was so thick in places that it became impossible to see exactly where the road was. We were flying and I realized that the extra power of the 950s came in very handy in the sand. By now we got rid of the temples on the back of the bikes and into the Pajero. The going was much easier. We saw plenty of elephants, buffalo, giraffe and the first prize, a cheetah that got up and casually ran in front of Wouter for almost a hundred meters.
… and then from nowhere, a Casper tire and a block of cement. I swerved and missed both, but Brian saw it too late. And so began his horrible front tire experience. The tube was a gonner and the tire had a large cut in it. We replaced the tube, but it only lasted 200 meters before it blew again, the gash in the tire was too big.
There was a spare front on the vehicle, but they headed back to the tar and were already in Nata, drinking St Louies . We had no cellphone reception. We decided that Brian, Vaughn and Wayne should slowly proceed to Elephant Sands, a lovely lodge that I stayed at some 2 months earlier while Wouter and I raced to Nata.
Since I knew the road I went in front. As I came around a corner I almost drove straight into an elephant. Fortunately the beast was even more frightened than me and was already running away with its tail between its legs, looking over its shoulders to see what kind of monster was chasing her. I slowed down (a lot). When we got back on the tar I realized that I too had bike problems. I lost some of the screws on my back sprocket and had to do emergency repairs in Nata.
Back at Elephant Sands we heard that Brian had another crash and was almost run over by a truck as he slid across the road. He was a nervous wreck (with reason). We stayed at the lodge the evening. The food was good but there was almost no Jagermeister … and that accidently ended up in our Coffee. Eish!
Relaxing at Elephant Sands near Nata
Since we were behind schedule the next day would be a real tester. The route was south on tar stopping at the Nata Bird sanctuary and then turning right onto dirt just after the second game fence. From this point it became interesting again… Fortunately it was “relatively” dry. We turned onto some dry pans and played a bit in the salt. Then headed south at high speed alongst a very long cutline.
Nata Bird Sanctuary
We got into a maze of dirt roads. Brian had a tire burst and crashed right in front of me. The problem was with the tubes we all purchased. We always use heavy duty tubes, but bought thin tubes to save space (at the same supplier). Since it was really shitty Chinese stuff and we were going fast with the big bikes, the tubes got ripped at the valves. Brian was in pain and simply refused to exceed 80km/h. We stayed lost in the maize until well after dark.
When we eventually reached the hotel the vehicle was nowhere to be found (with our clothes). Much later we heard that they had two flat tires on the way. Gordon who has spent half his life traveling through Africa only had one spare??? Vernon hitched a ride with some locals on the back of a bakkie. He reckons it was most reckless driving he ever encountered. Well they eventually arrived there much, much later.
The last day would be more than 800km, mostly dirt back home. The 950s were all running out of threat on the front tires. We decided to head to Kwa-Nokeng. On the way there, Brian’s front bust again. Luckily this time he did not crash. At Kwa-Nokeng we borrowed two second hand scrambler tires. Wouter fitted his while Vaughn through another on the back of his 950.
We eventually arrived back late that afternoon. Our usual trait is to stop for a last beer, but we were exhausted so we said goodbye and headed home.
What more can I say, “ KTM, jou lekker ding !!! ”
