TECH TORQUE : R1200 modification: EXTERNAL BATTERY NODE FOR HIGH CURRENT ACCESS

[Andyman]

One real pain in the ass in the field is that lack of easy access to a heavy current point to jumping another bike.
Getting to the R1200GS battery is not a simple easy  job.
Remove the pillion seat, then the rider seat, and even then the terminals are so out the way it’s almost impossible to get a jumper lead onto them.
It would be far more useful if there was an external PTO – Power Take Off to connect a jumper cable to.

HERE IS A STEP BY STEP PROJECT I RECENTLY DID ON MY BIKE.

WARNING: YOU COMPROMISE YOUR 2 YEAR WARRANTY ON YOUR BIKE BY DOING ANY DIY MODS OR NON AUTHORISED MODS.

I found that then airbox is a good place to host this external power point.
Free of any conductive material it is an ideal host for mounting a remote PTO- or Power Take Off.
This project takes  Power direct of the +ve terminal to the Left side of the airbox.
While I do have a quick-connect plug hard-wired into the battery circuit for the Benton charger/condiotner, It's jumping or getting jump started that calls for a high-current access point that is accessible, safe - just like the Camel man's 1150GSA had on its starter motor cover.
Direct off the positive terminal, using the footpeg as the -ve earth point.

I have whole project in a power point file- with photos and blo-by-blow instruction.
It cost sa total of R60.00 and took 2 hours, two beers and six sandwiches to complete. Onlt 1236 swear words and  one small vloermoer when I lost a tool.
If you'd like it mailed to you, send me a PM.



What you will need:
• A normal high current red battery lead from your preferred automotive shop
• 25mm heat shrink
• A 6mm eye terminal
• 8mm x 20mm brass hex bolt
• 2mm brass washers – 2 of.
• 8mm plastic end cap
• 4mm drill bit (pilot hole)
• 8mm drill bit
• Soldering kit
• Crimping kit
• Your normal garage tools
I drilled my hole too far back and this made it awkward to insert the bolt from inside- so be warned- you can drill the hole much more forward than in my photo.




Cut the battery lead to between 45 & 50 cm.
Fit the eye terminal, crimp it & solder it for better conductivity.
Put some heat shrink over it with and heat shrink it
Carefully remove the trim panels, taking care of the different screw sizes
Place the screw for each panel into zip-lok bags or into a tray so as not to lose any
As you remove the panels place them safely out the way
As you remove the panels place them safely out the way
Draw the air filter element out bottom first to avoid damaging it.
Place a wet cloth into the airbox to completely cover the entire lower area to catch any plastic shavings or the 8mm bolt if you drop it.
Drill a pilot hole and then an 8mm hole not more than 35 mm from the front leading edge.
Any further back will make it hard to reach from inside.
This hole was too far back and it was difficult to fit the bolt from inside.
The wet rag catches any plastic shavings
A light fish line tied to the bolt is excellent for ensuring you do not lose the bolt if you drop it by accident.
Now fit the bolt from the inside taking care not to drop it.
Although the wet rag will catch it and prevent  it going into a far corner.
Once the bolt with its washer are in place you can remove the fish line and fit the insulated battery lead onto the bolt.
reaching in with a 13mm spanner, you can tighten the bolt firmly over the insulated eye terminal.
Fit the 8mm end cap snugly onto the brass nut to ensure it remains insulated until you need it.
Feed the other end through to the battery terminal.
Be careful not to chafe it on the suspension head
Tighten into place
Test the effectiveness of your work with a test lamp.
Replace all the trim panels.
Replace the seats.
The connection is neat an unobtrusive.

 

[Andyman]

 

[Andyman]

 

[Andyman]