Author Topic: TE 610 General Maintenance (Read 40017 times)

Straatkat · « **Reply #20 on:** December 13, 2013, 08:37:30 am »

Quote from: alanB on December 12, 2013, 09:42:15 pm

I use Castrol Power 1 4T racing synthetic oil - thats what the guys at Primrose recommended - seemed like a good enough oil. Used that all along.

Its quite expensive in the bike shops but a lot cheaper at Midas

Got 4 Liters of Motul 300v but it is 15w50,all they had, now that is going out of spec both ways as the manual says 10w60, not sure if I want to use it in my Husky, and it will be about R450 for an oil change...a bit steep.
Maybe I should use it in another bike and get some Castrol like Alan suggests.

Alan, thanks for the manual, will definitely download it.

alanB · « **Reply #21 on:** December 13, 2013, 09:24:22 am »

I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.

sidetrack · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2013, 09:51:24 pm »

15-47 gearing and Castrol Actevo. Used Actevo even in my CRF with zero problems. The 610 motor is not the same as the modern racing 4 t's so I believe fully synthetic is a waste of money imho.

Straatkat · « **Reply #23 on:** December 15, 2013, 07:52:13 pm »

Oil is cheap insurance to keep you motor healthy, the cost of which pales against the cost of a motor rebuild, so I don't like to skimp in this department. Most synthetic oils are probably much better than needed, but then that would be additional insurance for when we run the motors hot in difficult conditions.

BiG DoM · « **Reply #24 on:** December 15, 2013, 07:58:45 pm »

Must say I subscribe to the same philosophy as Streetcat

sidetrack · « **Reply #25 on:** December 15, 2013, 08:10:14 pm »

I ran my DRZ400 on Actevo only, sold it at 68000km. At 50 000km I opened the top end and the bore was good as new. There is no way I'm paying double for fully synthetic when it's not needed (ie racing). More important is to service at regular inervals and keep the air filter clean. Previous owner of my bike ran high spec Motul and I had to repair alot of worn items with less than 15000km on the clock, I won't say it was the oil as Motul is top class but you can not guarantee 100% running even at R150 / L. Oil debates will always be a hot topic, whatever gives you piece of mind

alanB · « **Reply #26 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:35:16 am »

I agree with both arguments actually - if that's possible

Can't see the point of skimping on oil to save a few rand - but you don't need to go ballistic either. Just get a good enough quality oil that meets or exceeds the manufacturer's specs.

Primrose recommended The Castrol Power 1 4t synthetic saying that's what they use in all their Huskies, I checked its specs and didn't see any reason to argue. And I have stuck to that since, especially since finding that's it quite cheap at Midas.

But I agree with Sidetrack, frequent maintenance is the key, clean the air filter after every dusty ride, keep it properly oiled, change the oil and oil filter frequently.

You need to do that with any bike/car if you want it to last.

adv · « **Reply #27 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:36:59 pm »

My rear brakes seem to bind when standing in the sun. Any ideas?

BiG DoM · « **Reply #28 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:51:10 pm »

When did you last clean the callipers and lube the pins? Could just be the disc and pads expanding and binding on the pin?

adv · « **Reply #29 on:** December 16, 2013, 02:54:15 pm »

Quote from: BiG DoM on December 16, 2013, 01:51:10 pm

When did you last clean the callipers and lube the pins? Could just be the disc and pads expanding and binding on the pin?

I have not. Good idea.

Ill tear them open when I have a moment.

Straatkat · « **Reply #30 on:** December 16, 2013, 03:36:16 pm »

Sidetrack definitely have a point and regular maintenance is probably the best solution, question is, is 5000km old Motul as good as 2000km cheaper oil, I doubt it very much. Think fresh oil will win hands down. Just drained my oil after 5000km (10k service) and it is very black, definitely not gpoing to wait this long next time, probably 2500km a better change interval.

sidetrack · « **Reply #31 on:** December 16, 2013, 05:40:28 pm »

Quote from: Straatkat on December 16, 2013, 03:36:16 pm

Sidetrack definitely have a point and regular maintenance is probably the best solution, question is, is 5000km old Motul as good as 2000km cheaper oil, I doubt it very much. Think fresh oil will win hands down. Just drained my oil after 5000km (10k service) and it is very black, definitely not gpoing to wait this long next time, probably 2500km a better change interval.

Yip I also service at about 2000-2500km.

BiG DoM · « **Reply #32 on:** December 20, 2013, 01:02:26 pm »

Please note this is a dedicated thread for 610 Maintenance and DIY Mods

.

Straatkat · « **Reply #33 on:** December 20, 2013, 08:59:20 pm »

Servicing my bike, 10k , and decided to do the clutch washers as preventitive maintenance, found only very small pieces of debris in the LH screen, probably the size of pin heads, so made the special tool to hold and loosen the clutch basket, and found some destruction. The washers are worn but not as bad as some of the pics I saw on forums, but the plate that sits over the springs is worn badly on some wings. Found an interesting phenomenon, some washers are still 100% fine while others are worn almost through. Then I examined the faces on the gear (the oblong holes that the spring-washer combo work in) and saw they are punched and the shear faces are left rough, and they are eating up the washers. Some of the faces are smoother than others and those washers were actually fine. I have now polished those faces to avoid them eating my newly made washers for breakfast!
Now, what to do with the plate that holds the washers? Are they available as a loose part or only as a complete clutch basket assembly?

sidetrack · « **Reply #34 on:** December 21, 2013, 10:33:59 am »

I guess you could file them down but you will have less metal than before. Contact Blazes he might have the part for you

Straatkat · « **Reply #35 on:** December 22, 2013, 08:24:19 am »

I mig welded the plate and filed it down again, probably not the best solution, but should work. First prize would be a new plate, will have to see what can be done in the new year.

alanB · « **Reply #36 on:** December 22, 2013, 10:50:54 am »

Quote from: Straatkat on December 22, 2013, 08:24:19 am

I mig welded the plate and filed it down again, probably not the best solution, but should work. First prize would be a new plate, will have to see what can be done in the new year.

Hi Bertie

Nice work!

I think I see why they are wearing, the slot at the top for the washer seems off centre in the photo? Which would make the spring sit up against the one side maybe?

sidetrack · « **Reply #37 on:** December 22, 2013, 11:39:34 am »

Never seen so much wear on the plate caused by the spring before. The spring must have been really loose !

sidetrack · « **Reply #38 on:** December 22, 2013, 11:40:37 am »

Quote from: alanB on December 13, 2013, 09:24:22 am

I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.

Yep I saw it's only about R20 a liter more expensive than Actevo so I bought some and put it in my bike, it sounds the same

alanB · « **Reply #39 on:** December 22, 2013, 11:44:16 am »

Quote from: sidetrack on December 22, 2013, 11:40:37 am

Quote from: alanB on December 13, 2013, 09:24:22 am
I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.
Yep I saw it's only about R20 a liter more expensive than Actevo so I bought some and put it in my bike, it sounds the same

Is that a bad thing?