1800KM 6 Day Solo Trip

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wessel

Pack Dog
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Messages
92
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Location
Pretoria
Bike
Honda XR650R
I needed a break, and the best way I could think of is to do a trip on the “THE PIG”, why do I call my bike the PIG, because when she sees MUD, she just wants to roll in it. Anyway, I wanted to get into the mountains, back to nature, away from the city andavoiding TAR as much as possible.
Some time ago I posted a few mountain passes around Lesotho that I wanted to do, with so many options available, but time and money always a factor for the working class, I had to pick only a few to do. One that had been on my bucket list has been SANI Pas, one always hear stories among the fellow bikers about this route, what was the big attraction, I needed to go see for myself. So I set SANI as my main target, planning the route loosely towards the goal.
I have been warned by other bikers on the forum not to travel alone, and I did realize the possible risk doing a solo into the mountains, but one can’t always stress about the what if’s,  you plan for possible problems and ensure you can get yourself out of most.

Day1: Mullers Pass
Technical Difficulty: 0/10
SoI started my adventure on Saturday morning, 30 August. It was a cold and very windy morning. My goal for the day was to get to Sterkfontein Nat Reserve, camp there for the night, make that my base for 2 days and move on. The planned route included mullers pas, and ormadien pass. Estimated distance  about 570km. I took TAR up to Heidelberg, hoping to gain some time.. At Heidelberg, I got onto the dirt roads, towards vredeandmemel. Riding the lighter bike against  the wind was a constant battle, eating up the hours quickly. As I reached the split for mullers pas and ormadien pass, it was already late afternoon, the many picture taking stops and slower driving speeds the cause of wasted time. I decided to pick only one of the two, and then head towards sterkfontein, not thinking it through, I opted Mullers pass, and continued, the pass is very easy to ride, the section towards the pass more rocky than the pass itself. I continued past Chelmsford nature reserve, I continued following dirt roads, and found myself near ladysmith, I Checked the garmin, the campsite would only be reached by 19H00, I then still had to pitch tent. I chose to avoid driving at night, as I am as blind as a mole after sunset, so I checked for possible WARM accommodation close by, and picked Pyramid motel.

Day 2: Van Reenen’s Pass + De Beers Pass
Technical Difficulty:0/10
I left the motel, up towards to mountain, took a dirt road right at the top, close to windy corner, the dirt road hugged the mountain, going through a dark tunnel and following railway tracks, up to a point that splits towards DE BEER’s pas. I took this road. Initially the pass is a tarred road, but later changes into a gravel road. Followed this road back to Van Reenen. Refilled and followed the gravel to Sterkfontein. Pitched tent, and relaxed the rest of the afternoon next to the dam, trying my luck with a bit of fly-fishing. Not relying on my fishing skills for dinner I packed quick meals requiring just warm water.

Day 3: Bezuidenhouts Pass
Technical Difficulty: Downhill:7/10  Uphill:9/10
I took the first gravel to the left from sterkfontein towards bezuidenhouts pass, the early morning air is just the thing needed to wake up properly. The gravel road leading to the top gives a false comfort of the ease of the pass. I reached the top gate, and got to a point where the road forked, to the left a steep decline. I thought, surely, this cantbe the road, I must go straight, but I noticed some arrows packed with sticks and rocks pointing to the downhill path. I though, ok, it’s steep, but not too hectic, pick a path to follow and started the decent. Going down the first part made me think that the road won’t be that technical, until you reach the bottom of that section, then the rock steps become larger and larger, as you follow the decent into more and more technical sections.Wash away ruts , mixed with large rocks and steep rock steps made the drive down the mountain an exercise for the morning. Thinking to myself that going UP would be one very technical ride to do. This route is not for noobies, one needs to know the bike and be able to balance and control at slow speeds.
After the very technical downhill, the road becomes much easier to do. The only other time consuming factor the many farm gates to open and close on route.
Taking the gravel to Bergville to refill and back to the campsite via the R74.

Day 4: Nottingham Road to Himeville
Technical Difficulty:0/10
I packed camp early morning, took the R74 to Bergville. From there I took the gravel towards Loskop, Ntabamhlope, Loteni and via Nottingham road to Himevile. The most beautiful ride so far. Not a technical ride at all, a relaxing ride enjoying the creation as much as possible. I reached himeville at 14H00, but as I got off my bike for lunch, the side stand broke. Sticky situation indeed. I could carry on without the stand, but it would add complexity to the mount and dismount, not to mention the availability of a structure to rest the bike against. No, I had to get it fixed. So I used my support structure, the reliable, always willing to help wife to call a few places, while I took a quick break. Some forum members warned me not to eat at himeville Arms, but as the stand broke basically at the doorstep , I opted to take the risk and try the food. Pleasantly  surprised at the good food and the cost thereof. I had the special for the day R35 for 2 pork chops and chips with some vegies. A bargain I though, and value for money. After the late lunch I started the quest to find someone to fix the stand for me. The Yamaha shop tech could not help, but pointed me towards write weld in Underberg. I’m not good with names, but I think the owner is Phillip, he said he could help If I took off the remaining parts of the stand. No problem, and an hour later the bike stand was fixed and remounted. I chose to spend the night at himeville arms. Backpackers room, @R180 per night was not bad, thinking that it cost me R200 per night at Sterkfontein, and then I still had to pitch a tent and sleep in the cold. Here, for R20 less, I had a warm room, soft bed and ease.

Day5: Sani Pas, Lesotho – Buthe-Buthe – Fouriesburg.
Technical Difficulty: Uphill:6/10
Al last, I was going to tick one from my bucket list. The morning air was cold, and cloudy. I started towards Sani Pas. The gravel section up to the SA Border side is a very easy ride. At the border crossing I only had to provide my passport. I had papers for the bike, insurance papers  andletters from the bank with me just in case, but this was never requested, even at the Lesotho side the only requirement was the passport. The climb up is steep, but not technical difficult. I did get tired as I’m not as fit as I used to be, but taking a few stops to enjoy the view was enough to recharge the heart for the next parts. The switch backs are not that bad at the lower section of the mountain. The only time I did find them a bit more challenging was the last few at the TOP, the inclines within the turns are steep, and other vehicles didadd to the difficulty, but if you can balance your bike at low speeds going up a steep incline, you should not have a problem. I did capture the full ride from bottom to top on video, for those who would like to see the road conditions etc let me know, and I’ll provide. Anyway,  after reaching the top, passing through the Lesotho border side, paid the R30 road tax, I continued upwards onwards towards buthe-buthe.
I was under the impression that I would be able to use my cellphone within Lesotho, but I was mistaken. The infrastructure is not as established as within SA. Initially I had no reception at all, this did concern me a bit, as I was relying on the comms for support. Later the cell did detect “Econet Telecom Lesotho” and as a MTN subscriber I could purchase Recharge Voucher for this network. Maybe I should have enabled ROAMING on the simm.  The other problem I found was the supply of fuel, two of the fuel stations I got to, had no fuel at all. Luckily I had 4L extra with me, giving me the reach to get to fouriesburg. Lesotho is really a different world, the mountains and surroundings from an alien surface.Kotisephola Pass just after Sani is also a steep climb, giving a good workout, almost breaking into a sweat in the cold mountain air. Many frozen rock faces reminded me how cold the area was.
The last mountain pass you get before reaching Buthe-Buthe is a TAR road, but still amazingly beautiful, with many twisties and moments of awe.
Again, crossing the border into SA took only a few minutes. From here I went to clarens for the night.

Day 6 :
From Clarens I took the farm gravel roads back to Heidelberg, and from Heidelberg I took TAR back to Pretoria.
My Final thoughts about the trip:
Bezuidenhout pass is technically more difficult than Sani. Actually the most technical pass I have done thus far.
Going Up against Bezuidenhout pass from Bergville would require very skilled riders.
Sani Pass is only difficult at the last 3 or 4 Switch Backs at the TOP.
When you do Lesotho, ensure you have roaming enabled or some other means of support. I’m really not against solo trips, but I do think, that if I ever do Lesotho again, I won’t like to do it alone again.

Video of TOP Section
https://youtu.be/Vf0ma9uJ3yI
 

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