To Hel and back in 2 1/2 days

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Gus

Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
9
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0
Location
Western Cape (Noordhoek)
Bike
KTM 990 Adventure
Last week me and Doc, not being ones for working during the week if we can help it, headed for Die Hel. The following is an account of day 1 that was written by Doc which he then e mailed to me claiming he didn't have the time to post it. He has now gone off to west africa and left me to figure out how to load the pictures, which hopefully I have by now 8 hours later, mastered. I'll do day two later. This is his account verbatum, I didn't even edit out the picture of me in my pink towel, oh wait a minute, yes I did  ;D:

Gamkaskloof (or “Die Hel” as it is so unfairly referred to) has been a slight obsession since I first heard about it in the early 80’s from some unfortunate Navy guys who were sent there for “afkak” every now and then. It intrigued me then and after reading Denys Reitz’s account of the Boer War, “Commando”, wherein it is written that “we came across a valley of such fertility and beauty that we all sommer skopped styf” (or words to that effect) I knew that it had to be done.
I loaded the Dakar and Gus loaded his 990 Adventurer and off we set from
Cape Town at 05h30 on a cold 04th December’s.

Day 1

Riding hard to Montague and after wolfing down a “full monty” at the hotel we hit the first section of dirt just after 09h00.
Ouberg Pas (Montague to Touw’s Rivier) and surrounds is well known to the enduro clan but it was my first time and it was indeed lovely easy riding. The road damage from the recent floods was evident everywhere adding perhaps an extra “something” to the ride and was a pleasant feature that persisted for the next 3 days.




Oubergpad roads

A left turn here and a right turn there saw us on the road through Anysberg Nature Reserve. Rode with gemsbok and raced mad ostrichs who kept up with the bikes for a while. Managed to drop the bike on the first section of poor road but thankfully it was just the ego that was damaged. The provincial admin. trucks were out repairing the roads leaving a lekker layer of new soft sand and gravel in places.







Anysberg roads

We joined road from Laingsberg to Ladismith and turned left towards Seweweeksport. The poort had recently been re-opened and was a visual pleasure to drive through. Waterfalls, streams and lose gravel but the road was generally in good condition with most of the flood damage repaired.




Lekker lunch at “Rose of the Karoo” in Calitzdorp and a telephonic request from the tannie at Gamskasklof to please bring the new Huisgenoot and TV Plus. They may be God-fearing, self-sustainables down in Die Hel but “Egoli” obviously has it’s important place in every society.
A visit to the local butcher for ½ a cow and some plaaswors took care of the food requirements for the evening and a stop at the bottle store for the Whisky and Vodka took care of the conversation requirements for the evening.
We were advised not to follow the road from Calitzdorp town to the Cango Caves so headed out on the R62 for about 10 k’s and then turned left towards the Caves to meet up with the back road.
Again lovely riding until we hit the tar for a while and turned left to the Swartberg Pass. I had never ridden it before and was completely respectful of it’s tight corners which allowed ample time to admire the awesome scenery on the way up. Also passed a gaggle of tourists cycling slowly down the pass and took good advantage of the views offered down those loose tops worn by the sunburnt ladies.


Gus on Swartberg

Stopped for the obligatory Kodak moment at the top and then on to the turn off to Die Hel just over the peak towards Prince Albert. “50k’s – 2hours” said the sign and with good reason. The difference in road texture was immediate and while Gus raced ahead with gay (uh, Doc maybe rephrase that?? -G) abandon, I tested my newly acquired standing skills.



It was probably the most demanding yet exhilarating 50k’s I’ve ever ridden. The ride has all been documented before but we were one of the first down after the floods. (The tannie mentioned 4 others who arrived last Friday 30 November – other Wild Dogs perhaps ???).





Roads to Die Hel

Numerous stream crossings and tight, loose hairpins made it all worthwhile and the views offered from the top of Elands Pass (the last awesome decent) are beyond description. I can fully sympathise with Denys and his manne “skopping styf” as they stood there for the first time.


Elands Pass

It took us just on an hour from the turn-off to arrive at the campsite and sign in with Cape Nature. Gus was gracious enough to wait for me during the stretch but I would guess more accomplished riders could do it in 40 minutes or so. (If that’s their thing…)
After all the recent reports and discussions of the road being closed to bikes without permit etc. the tannie told us that if we book through her (Gamkaskloof) as opposed to booking through Cape Nature there is not really an issue. So we were waved on passed the Cape Nature section and after 8 km or so arrived at the little settlement of Kloovers (as they are fondly known). A full history of Gamkaskloof and the road are well detailed in the book called “Die Hel” which is for sale at the little kiosk  in the kloof. Good news for weary travelers is that they also sell cold beer, ice, wood and limited amounts of food and booze supplies as well. Best check beforehand what they have in stock to avoid disappointment.
We stayed in a little house for R140 each per night. It was the house that the last of the still-surviving member of the original Kloovers was born in.
Limited electricity so a candlelit braai and a fierce discussion about centres of gravity while riding was enjoyed. The animation increased but the sensibility of the conversation petered out in direct proportion to the level in the bottles and eventually we staggered off to our rooms to snore for a few hours.




At the cottage

Day 1 summary.
Noordhoek to Montague, Ouberg Pas to Anysberg, Seweweekspoort, Calitzdorp to Cango Caves, Swartberg Pass and the road to Gamkaskloof.
Distance – approx 550 km
Time – 12 hours including stops.




 

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