Transkei Jaunt

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Outhere

Race Dog
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
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Location
Merrivale
Bike
BMW R1200GS
Transkei Jaunt September 2009

A brief discussion among a couple of riding buddies led to a planning meeting in May this year. After initially discussing a route that included Baviaanskloof it was quickly decided that the Wild Coast held plenty of opportunities and that it would be the destination. A period of 8 days and 7 nights was agreed on starting on Sunday 20 September and ending the following Sunday 27 September. The route was shortened at the second meeting due to no access into the nature reserves in the area and too much to do in too little time. With all necessary wifely permissions signed and sealed the route was agreed, accommodation booked and the GPS and Google Earth process started in earnest. Time zapped by and then it was Sunday 20 September and it was time to go.
The group was Kevin and Sarah ( GS 1200 ) Ross ( GS 1200 ) Colin ( GS 650 Dakar )
Russell and Ashton ( GS 800 ) and Alan ( GS 800 ).

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Day 1           20 September 09
Howick to Msikaba 488 km

Met at Woodburn Service Station in Maritzburg at 0630 am.

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Then off to Harding via Richmond, Ixopo and Umzimkulu on the main tar road. Cold start at 4.5 c at Cedara
and then ranging between 7 c and 15 c until Harding. Why did I leave the jacket liner at home? Harding onto the dirt and off towards Bizana. At this point we were making good time so a detour was agreed on. Kevin, the navigator, guided us to the Mtentu River mouth. Now we knew we were on the Wild Coast.

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Nobody around apart from a couple of local fisherman and a beautiful deserted beach with the estuary stretching inland between forested cliffs. We had a problem with a pannier breaking on Kevin’s 1200 but this was soon repaired.

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 From here the route went via Holy Cross and on the  way there Ross suffered a bad puncture on his new rear Heidenau. It took some time to get the plugs to plug the hole but after about an hour we were rolling again.

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At this point our time credit was definitely turning into a debit as the shadows were lengthening as we rushed towards Lusikisiki. We needed fuel and food for the evening meal. We had received confirmation from Peter of Drifters that fish had been caught for us and were waiting at the first two nights camps. Ross and Alan arrived at Lusiki first and then waited and waited and feared the worst. By now it was getting dark and we still had about 45 km to go. We would definitely be riding in the dark, the one thing we had promised ourselves would not happen. It turned out that Kevin had had a mysterious and sudden front wheel deflation. With great skill, he kept it together and after a further delay, got going again. No puncture, so we assumed maybe the tyre was slightly under inflated and that had caused the problem. Fuelled up and saved by the wonderful service station shop, we were on our way again only to realise that there were not enough lights behind us. This time Ashton had dropped her glove at the garage and they returned to look for it. A fellow had picked it up and flagged them down as they returned and gave it back. What a pleasure, Africa is not all bad. The next bit of our ride was tense and interesting. People, animals and a deteriorating road meant we had to be alert. Unfortunately, Colin had an off and hurt his knee but eventually we arrived at the Drifters tented camp at Msikaba at 20.00 h. Even in the dark we could tell it would be a good stopping point. Myron, camp manager, jumped about and got us settled in. Ross rummaged about in his panniers and produced 6 Windhoek draught beers which chilled quickly in the deep freeze and were sucked down gratefully. Russell, the old sea dog, set about filleting the 5 Shad that were for supper.

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Fish, bread and crisps were soon devoured. After eating and discussing the day, we wandered off to shower and then to bed .

Day 2             21 September 2009
Msikabe to Manteku 155 km

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After the perceived difficulty in the darkness, daylight showed that the road was actually pretty reasonable. Spent a short while at the pensioner’s market at Lambasi
and then rode down a good track to Port Grosvenor. Here we met Edith and Clive Dennison who told us a bit about the history of the wrecks in the area. The Grosvenor sank at this spot in 1782 and has been the subject of much speculation regarding treasure. It has also been at the centre of a financial scam. We checked out the tunnel to the wreck and an old rusting winch.

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Had a look at the airstrip for the pilots in the group

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and then took a more difficult route back to the main road. By now it was nearly midday and we headed through Mazizi Tea Estate in search of Waterfall Bluff. The weather was changing and after finding a spectacular lookout point near Mbotyi, we decided to err on the side of caution and not go any further. Onto next year’s agenda.

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We were heading to Manteku and decided to make the Magwa Falls our next stop.
An easy and scenic ride to the falls through lush green tea plantations. The setting is spectacular, although at this time of the year there was not much water going over the falls.
Fuelled up in Lusiki and short ride on tar to the Manteku turn off. About 25 km through indiginous forest along a scenic winding road with a final steep descent into camp.

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Again, Drifters produced the goodies. A really lekker camp in a remote setting and more pre-arranged fish for supper. Some went for a canoe ride, others swam and the rest walked and took photos.

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Bream and vegetables cooked on the braai and a couple of drinks did the trick for the evening meal. We all agreed that if it rained we could have trouble getting out in the morning.

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Day 3              22 September 2009
Manteku to Umgazana Lodge 95 km

So, it rained. All night. And into the morning. Kevin came to the rescue and with great skill and enthusiasm rode 4 of the 5 bikes out. Thanks Kev.

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He also went up and down the steep and slippery slope many times like a greased mountain goat. The ride back to the main tar road was slippery and wet but was achieved by all successfully. As we approached Port St Johns the weather cleared and things dried up. This is a nice stretch of winding  tar and is fun even with livestock targets popping up at regular intervals.

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Port St Johns is a chaotic little town with a built in vibe. We did some shopping, a chick called Yum Yum sorted out some accommodation for us at Umgazana Lodge and then we went to Geers Restaurant for lunch. After eating, we rode across the Mzimvubu River bridge and on to Agate Terrace en route to the top of Poenskop. Great view, lekker ride, what a pleasurable time we were having.

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Quick ride on tar and then back onto the dirt to the Lodge.

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Arrived around 1600 and settled in. Weather looked a bit threatening but no rain. Sarah and Ashton produced the best toasted cheese, onion and tomato sarmies which were braaied. Really delicious and an easy and economical meal. Whilst in the pub, taking part in a pool challenge, Ross demanded an answer to why flies are able to hang upside down on the ceiling.
Nobody knew the answer, so we sent him to his room. Comfortable beds with sheets
and a clear day indicated in the morning. Planned an early start.

Day 4             23 September 2009
Umgazana to Mdumbi   118 km

Ready to roll by 0820 am. Rode towards the sea where most of the cottages are. Weather clear and warm but getting windy. Good view over the bay towards Brazen Head. Had a pleasant ride to the Kraal Backpackers at Sinangwana mouth. Only a few cows on the beach. On the approach, a bloke in a bakkie hogged the road and caused Russell and Ashton to take an early mudbath.

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Great mirth all around. Ashton was riding with her dad with a badly damaged left foot wrapped up in a big and expensive orthopaedic brace. The whole trip was accomplished without complaint. We tried to cross the beach to Mpande Mouth but the tide was in. We took the longer route through more indigenous forest. There was a dry river crossing that was our first sand challenge. Some succeeded whilst others battled a little but what the hell. Skills were being refined and developed and fun was being had.

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Took a grass track down to the sea to look for a shipwreck but somebody must have moved it because it could not be found. Found a grass track to a view site and Ross did his first involuntary wheelie up the hill.

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Next up was the road to Hluleka Wildlife Reserve. We were not allowed in but were able to get down to the sea and do a brief beach crossing to our lunch stop. Curry pasta bunny chow and sweets settled that meal requirement. Some fun and laughs were had with the beach crossing.

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Then off to a hilltop view site before moving down to Presley’s Bay. There is a row of typical Wild Coast cottages, rusting away with their green water tanks and the sound of the sea crashing onto the shore. Kevin wanted to find the boat launching site but Sarah said “NO” so we went anyway. Weather was deteriorating so it was decided to head for home. Kevin and Alan went off for a separate excursion to the north side of the Mdumbi Mouth while the others set off in search of the Backpackers and beer.

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After booking in and showering, we parked off in the communal area having a few drinks and waiting for supper. Cottage pie, veggies, salad and a pudding. Good meal and happy people.

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Ross  introduced a stunning new fashion garment for the discerning biker. One pair of thermal long johns with a manly pair of boxer shorts over the top.
He will be on fashion TV next. After all this excitement, bed was a welcome release.

Day 5          24 September 2009
Mdumbi to Bulungula   149 km

Late start due to a very casual approach to breakfast preparation. Was worth the wait however. Quick look at the north side of Umtata River mouth, then off towards Coffee Bay. Easy going on a pleasant, warm and sunny day. Just before the steep descent into Coffee Bay hung a left along the cliff top to Mapuzi Point. Good view and short break.

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Then a short ride to the other side of the Umtata River mouth. A lekker spot and we were enjoying good riding in varied terrain. A leisurely fuel stop in Coffee Bay and then up the hill to White Clay.

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The woman in charge did not make us feel welcome and we had to squeeze 3 plates of slap chips out of her. It’s a spectacular stop over, pity about the kak attitude of the management Gestapo. No worries, refreshed and keen as rampant rats, we roared off to the icon of the Wild Coast, Hole in the Wall.

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With Kevin controlling all the local  kids like a well respected headmaster, we were able to take the necessary photos and gaze at the view.

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From here the roads had received some attention and were in a good condition. The view site at Mbolompo Point, over looking the Mncwasa Mouth was another good place. Incidentally, this is the area in which the Oceanos sank in 1991. The most memorable thing about that event was the fact that the Captain and crew were among the first to escape the stricken liner. Brave souls, thats why we stick to the earth on our bikes.
Arrived at the Bulungula turn off at a very reasonable hour ie early. We had been told that the road was impassable and only Alfie Cox and weird teenagers on small 2 stokes
could make the last 3 kilometres. So we booked the shuttle as a possible solution to this
huge problem. Never made it to Mpame but looked for Kevin’s alternative route. After
Ross tried to kill a sheep and the road became an unknown possible big issue we turned around and headed for camp. Luckily, the sheep had recovered from its recent death, so our pending massacre at the hands of a tribe of enraged Xhosa warriors never materialised. What a relief ! The chap at the trading store where the bikes were to have been left before leaping into the shuttle informed us of another route.

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So, off we went. What a doddle. No major issues at all and shortly thereafter we arrived at the lodge at around 1645 pm. Place looked interesting, so ordered a Black Label bomber and rinsed the dust out of the windpipe.


Day 6      25 September 2009
Bulungula Lodge - rest day

This is a unique place. Essentially a community driven tourism enterprise, it is run on an environmentally sustainable basis. The locals are involved in the running, maintenance and upkeep of the facility. There are about 10 rondavels and a camp site on a self catering basis or as we chose, to have meals provided. This worked well, as no food needed to be carried. You need to visit the place, even if it is to experience the sand toilet and the rocket shower. What a blast.

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We had decided on a day off, just for a break from touring. It went down well, with everyone free to do as they pleased. So, swimming, walking, sleeping and general slothing about was the way the day was spent. A couple of the guys went for a ride close to camp and the rest had massages to sooth sore muscles.
This may not be everybodys cup of tea but the concept is an admirable one and deserves to be supported. Go with an open mind and accept the way things are. This coast line will be lost forever unless some form of prosperity can be generated for the locals. Sustainable tourism initiatives  and  NOT  mining, N2 highway extensions and the dreaded coastal developer scourge will secure this fantastic area for the future.


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Day 7     26 September 2009
Bulungula to Kob Inn   224

This was a good day. It was to be our longest distance apart from the first and last days.
We started at the local trading station buying fuel. The oke who helped us was an ex Howick High chap who Ross knew from the past. Small world. Then we backtracked somewhat to get to the start of Kev’s route for the day. The road became a track, then a path. Then it plunged down a rocky gradient with no apparent end. Consensus was “ go down there, and there’s no coming back”. Kev gently sent Sarah down at the top and then disappeared. Shortly he was back and we got ready to go. A few hairy moments but all made it to the bottom. We were challenging ourselves and winning. What a great feeling.

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A small river crossing and then a variety of surfaces past rural villages and suddenly we were at the gate at Cwebe Nature Reserve. Bikes are not allowed but we managed to negotiate traversing rights to The Haven. This  was a privilege and the next few hours were spent traversing indigenous forests until we popped out at one of the other gates. It had been extremely hot and windy so the cool forest had been a great respite.

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The day was growing long     in the tooth, so one final stop at the very lovely Nqabarha Mouth
most pleasing. A few of the group tried their sand skills again and were found wanting.
Maybe not ready for Moz yet. More practice needed. From here it was decided to get on with it and get to Kob Inn. Good roads and reasonably fast progress saw us arrive at the hotel at 1700 h. This hotel was the most conventional, family orientated place we stayed at in the week. Beds with pillows, sheets and blankets. A seafood buffet for dinner. It was Colin’s birthday but no big party developed.  Not long after eating, everybody went off to bed.

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A general feeling of gloom had descended as tomorrow it was a long tar section home to be followed by work on Monday.

Day 8    27 September 2009
Kob Inn to Howick   548 km

The weather forecast predicted heavy rain and snow on this day. The day dawned clear and cool. After looking at the beach and general surroundings, taking some pictures and packing, we had a good breakfast and then set off. On the dirt for the last time, we enjoyed the 40 odd kays to Willowvale, where were filled up. From here via Dutywa onto the N2 towards Mthatha. A gentle cruise on a pleasant morning, avoiding the odd sheep, goat and cow kept us awake. Made Kokstad by 1300 and fuelled to the end, had something to eat and drink and hit the road for the last time. The scenic route via Swartberg,  Underberg and Bulwer was, as usual quiet and pretty. The weather was changing and as we arrived at Howick the first drizzle was starting. The rain set in later and did not really stop for the whole of the next week. What  luck we had experienced with the weather during our time away.



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Written by Alan Pics and posting by Outhere [Kev]        
       
 
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