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Author Topic: E-Start not working  (Read 1385 times)

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Offline Louis Photo

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #20 on: November 10, 2015, 11:01:50 am »
there is a 2 mm red wire that runs from the battery under the seat , ther is a plug in connector there as well, some time this thing does not make great contact and the bike wont start , all the lights are on , but when you try and start every thing go`s dead , I cut out the plug and solderd my one togeather and that problem stopped , However I still think you need to investigate the clutch switch further , these switches are troublsome , and every DRZ owner I know has had problems with them, and your bike is giving every symptom of this stupid switch.

The clutch switch is bypassed, don't think it can cause the problem. I bridged the two poles on the starter relay with a screwdriver and the bike started immediately, so there's enough power from the battery. I suspect a problem with the relay?
 

Offline Louis Photo

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #21 on: November 10, 2015, 12:57:43 pm »
Im busy ordering a starter relay from Suzuki in Worcester, just got a quote...R1000  :o
 

Offline LouisXander

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #22 on: November 10, 2015, 01:00:50 pm »
Try Startline.co.za
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Offline Grumpleton

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #23 on: November 10, 2015, 07:09:00 pm »
... I cut out the plug and solderd my one togeather and that problem stopped ...

Never solder anything on automotive wiring looms. It's a recipe for nasty hard to find and intermittent electrical problems as the wirings copper strands start to break off from vibration where they emerge from the solder blob.
Rather get a simple to use and cheap crimping tool and lugs

I have solderd on wiring looms that vibrate far more than any bike, if its done correctly it should never give you problems ever!!!
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Offline lecap

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2015, 12:53:45 pm »
... I cut out the plug and solderd my one togeather and that problem stopped ...

Never solder anything on automotive wiring looms. It's a recipe for nasty hard to find and intermittent electrical problems as the wirings copper strands start to break off from vibration where they emerge from the solder blob.
Rather get a simple to use and cheap crimping tool and lugs

I have solderd on wiring looms that vibrate far more than any bike, if its done correctly it should never give you problems ever!!!

If it would only be an issue of being done correctly why do you think you are not allowed to solder but only crimp aero wiring looms?

No matter how wonderful your soldering skills are you will always have a flexible wire transiting into a solid solder saturated one. At the transit point vibration will break off the copper strands of the wire one after another. This opens the additional opportunity of you causing an electrical fire as the diminishing cross section might get hot enough to set the insulation alight.

In the very few instances where you find soldered connections on your bike (for example in your ignition switch and handle bar switch units) much care has been taken by the manufacturer to make sure the flexible wire can not move at all relative to the solder.
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Offline katana

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #25 on: November 11, 2015, 02:19:34 pm »
A lot of factory looms use solder when wires split.  I agree, secure it properly and it will be OK.  Obviously, not around the steering neck area or such.

Depending on the quality of the connectors and the crimper, wires can break there too.  Then again, if wires are stripped with too much force, scoring the copper, it is going to break anyway.

long story short, if you work neat and plan for movement.  It is all good.
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Offline NeilF

Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #26 on: December 29, 2015, 02:30:04 pm »
I had the same issue last week, it was a loose connection between the starter button and the starter relay. I traced the wire from the starter button and found a loose connection behind the headlight cover, problem solved.

 

Offline Louis Photo

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #27 on: December 29, 2015, 03:08:24 pm »
My DRZ's problem was traced to a dirty connection inside the start button. Accumulation of dirt over time, the auto electrician scratched the brass surface inside the electric start button assembly with a screwdriver, problem solved. After I bought a solenoid for R1000 from Worcester Suzuki on the mechanics suggestion - and no, they didn't want to take the solenoid back and return my cash.
 

Offline Crab

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Re: E-Start not working
« Reply #28 on: December 29, 2015, 04:08:18 pm »
You could have learned a lot with a test lamp or a volt meter and saved some cash.
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