McSpafter
Pack Dog
The Old:
2 x 55W = 110W
The New:
2 x 2.5W = 5W
The Why:
I bought spotlights for my Caponord (from Ring Automotive). These spots have 55Watt H3 globes fitted as standard; making a total of 110W. These spotlights are actually floodlights and do not improve the overall lighting of the bike; they act as a day-time running lights which is to improve biker visibility to other drivers. These spotlights will NOT give more lighting to the road.
Problem: Only after fitting the spotlights I discovered that the charging system of the Caponord does not allow for too many extras to be added (having some other equipment already installed). This resulted in the spotlights draining the battery while riding… which is never a good idea!
Rolf and I investigated the option to convert our current spotlights from H3 to LED… the results were fantastic and power consumption adds up to a total of 5Watt (that’s for both Spotlights)! Saving a whopping 105Watts.
The How:
We selected 15 Superflux LEDs for each spotlight and designed the array as below (please note that we are not electronically inclined, so please excuse the basic design). We selected two different LEDs, one set of Yellow LEDs with a view angle of 70 degrees and one set of Amber LEDs with a view angle of 40 degrees. 5 off Amber LEDs was arranged in the centre of the spotlight… to create a central light source with 10 Yellow LEDs to complete the array.
We opted for a voltage regulator which will ensure a stable 12V supply to the spots (as the bike’s voltage will vary between 13 and 14.5V); thereby keeping the LEDs supply voltage at optimum while driving (also ensuring optimum LED brightness throughout).
The process started by making up the voltage regulator housing (which would be located somewhere inside the dash). The regulator, Caps and heat sink fitting snugly in the housing:
Secondly we removed the glass cap from the housings. Vera board was cut to size to fit snugly into the housing.
LEDs and resistors were soldered onto the Vera board and the backend covered with a glue gun (to ensure soldered bits are insulated).
Supply wires soldered onto the Vera board and resistors (positive and negative connections). Vera board fitted into place and backend filled up with glue gun. The front of the Vera board was secured into place with epoxy.
The glass housing was glued back onto the housing… making the LED spotlight complete.
Installation:
The installation took some time, as we decided to solder all connections and lugs, used heat shrink tubing on all wires… and stripped the bikes to install the wires neatly on the existing wiring loom. We used an illuminated switch that compliments the dash board!
2 x 55W = 110W
The New:
2 x 2.5W = 5W
The Why:
I bought spotlights for my Caponord (from Ring Automotive). These spots have 55Watt H3 globes fitted as standard; making a total of 110W. These spotlights are actually floodlights and do not improve the overall lighting of the bike; they act as a day-time running lights which is to improve biker visibility to other drivers. These spotlights will NOT give more lighting to the road.
Problem: Only after fitting the spotlights I discovered that the charging system of the Caponord does not allow for too many extras to be added (having some other equipment already installed). This resulted in the spotlights draining the battery while riding… which is never a good idea!
Rolf and I investigated the option to convert our current spotlights from H3 to LED… the results were fantastic and power consumption adds up to a total of 5Watt (that’s for both Spotlights)! Saving a whopping 105Watts.
The How:
We selected 15 Superflux LEDs for each spotlight and designed the array as below (please note that we are not electronically inclined, so please excuse the basic design). We selected two different LEDs, one set of Yellow LEDs with a view angle of 70 degrees and one set of Amber LEDs with a view angle of 40 degrees. 5 off Amber LEDs was arranged in the centre of the spotlight… to create a central light source with 10 Yellow LEDs to complete the array.
We opted for a voltage regulator which will ensure a stable 12V supply to the spots (as the bike’s voltage will vary between 13 and 14.5V); thereby keeping the LEDs supply voltage at optimum while driving (also ensuring optimum LED brightness throughout).
The process started by making up the voltage regulator housing (which would be located somewhere inside the dash). The regulator, Caps and heat sink fitting snugly in the housing:
Secondly we removed the glass cap from the housings. Vera board was cut to size to fit snugly into the housing.
LEDs and resistors were soldered onto the Vera board and the backend covered with a glue gun (to ensure soldered bits are insulated).
Supply wires soldered onto the Vera board and resistors (positive and negative connections). Vera board fitted into place and backend filled up with glue gun. The front of the Vera board was secured into place with epoxy.
The glass housing was glued back onto the housing… making the LED spotlight complete.
Installation:
The installation took some time, as we decided to solder all connections and lugs, used heat shrink tubing on all wires… and stripped the bikes to install the wires neatly on the existing wiring loom. We used an illuminated switch that compliments the dash board!
